What's new
By:
Filters

glacially slow machine shop build

arse_sidewards said:
Anyone got any suggestions for getting this manifold up to the ~750deg it takes to aluminum braze?

Biggest burner on the gas stove will only do ~550. :laughing:

I could do it with the carbon arc torch but I'm pretty sure I'd over shoot and melt/oxidize shit and generally be a fuckin mess and wind up with more leaks than I started with.

I'm thinking throw it on top of the burn barrel next time I run the sawmill or just use normal flux and solder to seal the leaks.
Click to expand...
Get a oxy propane setup. I could not live without a torch rig. You’ll thank me later.
 
Makeshift coal forge?


My big green egg gets up to 1k degrees on lump charcoal and a little blower.
 
ThePanzerFuhrer said:
Get a oxy propane setup. I could not live without a torch rig. You’ll thank me later.
Click to expand...
this this this
everyone needs a REAL torch

hackfuck says weed burner torch though, used one bending some I beams and it did work in time
set it on a turkey fryer for some 'heat from all directions'
 
Loader brakes mysteriously went to the floor today. No leak anywhere obvious but the leaking steering gear doesn't help. I just bled the thing and sent it. WTF
 
Got the beams for the garage delivered last night. Loader brakes are still working.

Unloading was kind of a shitshow because of the spaces I needed to be able to swing beams around in but the loader was the perfect tool for the job. Being able to chain to the bucket and curl really made making the pile easier.

This is the last of the big steel for the garage. Just little bracketry and rebar from here. It was really fortuitious that I was able to get galvanized for all of it because that's money I never have to spend on paint.

attachment(5).jpg
 
Welded some beams for the shop crane. With some luck I'll have them installed by 2024 :homer:

Straight butt joint because fuck wasting material making an angled joint. It's only gonna have over 1k on it when I'm moving machine tools around which will be a "stand clear of crane" operation 100% of the time since a 6" beam on a 15' span does not make for the kind of crane that can move a bridgeport with confidince. :laughing:

Beveled and mulit-passed it for zero undercut with only slight amounts of "fuck it" at the very edges of the flange where it doesn't matter anyway. :flipoff2:

Since it was my first time welding galvy outdoors without a fume extractor and more than 10ft from the welder it took me a couple passes to get good. Turns out it sounds way differnt than normal and that was throwing me off. I never noticed before because the fume extractor and welder mostly covered it. :lmao:

Dafuq is that whispy shit? I've welded a lot of galvy but never left that behind before. Zinc cooking off? Only left it on the first pass of each weld and only beside the slag.


attachment(2).jpeg

attachment(3).jpeg

attachment(4).jpeg

attachment(5).jpeg
 
arse_sidewards said:
See that soot?

Turns out a 1/4 tapcon will hit the nut on a home depot 10-50r but only when you flex the EMT the box is bolted to. :lmao:


attachment(1).jpeg
Click to expand...
Time for a box extender (and to ground the box if my boss was supervising):
1661650408987.png

arse_sidewards said:
Dafuq is that whispy shit? I've welded a lot of galvy but never left that behind before. Zinc cooking off? Only left it on the first pass of each weld and only beside the slag.

attachment(4).jpeg
Click to expand...
I have had that when welding galvanized, but only on metal with good galvanization on it. Cheap galvanized doesn't do that.

Aaron Z
 
aczlan said:
Time for a box extender (and to ground the box if my boss was supervising):
Click to expand...
I just rotated the outlet. Fuck throwing an extender on a box with an outlet in it. It would wind up feeling flexy and sloppy.


aczlan said:
I have had that when welding galvanized, but only on metal with good galvanization on it. Cheap galvanized doesn't do that.

Aaron Z
Click to expand...

I guess I've been welding shit galvanized all this time. This stuff was the good stuff. 1/4" thick beat at the low corner that was the last out of the tank. Surplus material from a solar farm. The tinder date I was fucking that night got real concerned when I was in bed googling zinc poisoning because I was concerned I hadn't felt it yet. :laughing:
 
Anything galv or zinc I've welded would have that. Next time tack some scraps to the ends of your flange joint to over run the bead onto, and cut flush when done.
 
[486] said:
you gonna have the velcro lungs for a bit
Click to expand...
Those were done last weekend. It was fine. I just stood upwind and took care to not stick my face in it and held my breath when I smelled the zinc. Between the 6" beams and 14" electrodes I never really had an arc going long enough for it to be a problem.

I was lying in bed that night thinking to myself "gee, I feel fine right now is this gonna hit me at 3am?" and started googling zinc poisoning which really freaked out the woman I was sleeping with. :laughing:

Dethmachinefab said:
Anything galv or zinc I've welded would have that. Next time tack some scraps to the ends of your flange joint to over run the bead onto, and cut flush when done.
Click to expand...
Having disposable pads for your starts and stops is SOP for "shit that matters". I don't see how galv or zinc or other surface coating would make a difference.:confused:

My understanding is that the far edges of the flange are the least stressed and that it shouldn't be a big deal. I can always sit the thing on its side and build it up then grind it back down.

Also, while we're on the subject. Does anyone know if there's any structural benefit to grinding the welds flush?
 
arse_sidewards said:
Those were done last weekend. It was fine. I just stood upwind and took care to not stick my face in it and held my breath when I smelled the zinc. Between the 6" beams and 14" electrodes I never really had an arc going long enough for it to be a problem.

I was lying in bed that night thinking to myself "gee, I feel fine right now is this gonna hit me at 3am?" and started googling zinc poisoning which really freaked out the woman I was sleeping with. :laughing:


Having disposable pads for your starts and stops is SOP for "shit that matters". I don't see how galv or zinc or other surface coating would make a difference.:confused:

My understanding is that the far edges of the flange are the least stressed and that it shouldn't be a big deal. I can always sit the thing on its side and build it up then grind it back down.

Also, while we're on the subject. Does anyone know if there's any structural benefit to grinding the welds flush?
Click to expand...
I was talking about your whispy shit being normal on galv/zinc coated junk.

Overun tabs on anything that you want or need done nice. Isn't much work for a better product.

In your case, no benefit.
 
86fd8460b274279aec50b3dcbcf84b1a.jpg

Also, outdoor fume hoods are pretty cheap. They're on the side of the road all the time
 
D Nelly said:
86fd8460b274279aec50b3dcbcf84b1a.jpg

Also, outdoor fume hoods are pretty cheap. They're on the side of the road all the time
Click to expand...
That's what I used to do before I had a fume extractor. I didn't need it because the wind was blowing. :laughing:
 
Ran some pipe to connect the sandblast cabinet to the dust collector. Also installed lights in the cabinet. And broke the glass by bumping it with my mag drill. Of course the tapcons stripped out of those holes too. I'm getting mad just thinking about it. Was able to get a replacement from my dad's stockpile of random single pane windows (that's what's in the cardboard) Still need to actually connect it at the dust connector end and plumb from the regulator to the gun but progress is progress. The lights are 4x 24" LEDs. They're too bright to stare at on the bench but are good for in the cabinet.

attachment(20).jpeg
attachment(19).jpeg
attachment(18).jpeg
attachment(17).jpeg
attachment(16).jpeg
attachment(15).jpeg
attachment(14).jpeg
attachment(13).jpeg
attachment(12).jpeg
attachment(11).jpeg
 
I have everything I need to slap remote hydro-boost on the front end loader except for the remote slave and the remote master.

Am I asking for shit results if I pick a remote slave and master that are the same size resulting in no ratio change in the overall system?

I know with the help of the booster I can go bigger on the remote master but I don't want to lose brakes when the engine stalls. Right now the pedal is really hard to the point where only able bodied men can safely brake this thing on any sort of hill and even then it's only safe by the standards of when this machine was made.
 
Sewer pipe for the dust collector lines, I like it. Smooth id pipes are best in that application.

For the stripped tapcons in masonry block, take the screw out, and put in a line or two of string trimmer (weed water) line. Don't even have to take the bracket out, just thread the line right in the hole the tapcon made when it stripped. That should give it enough purchase to hold in the block assuming you're not over driving it. Similar idea to putting matchsticks in wollered out wood screw holes.

For the machine, Hydro boost will give you more power, and the accumulator should give you one to two pumps of powered braking with no line pressure (engine off). If that's enough for your use case, yes, worth it. No ratio change is necessary if you're not changing any of the piston diameters or lengths in the system.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
For the stripped tapcons in masonry block, take the screw out, and put in a line or two of string trimmer (weed water) line. Don't even have to take the bracket out, just thread the line right in the hole the tapcon made when it stripped. That should give it enough purchase to hold in the block assuming you're not over driving it. Similar idea to putting matchsticks in wollered out wood screw holes.
Click to expand...

Yup. Can also shove toothpicks, or match sticks, or zip ties in there too. Or if it wallers out enough shove a moly plug in there and then run the tapcon back in.
 
I had to use drain pipe because it's thinner wall and more flexible than sch40 dwv so over a 20ft run it can make an S-bend 2" to clear the offset of the joists on the main beam and an electrical box.

Thanks for the tip on the tapcons. I've done that shit with wood a bunch but had no idea an equivalent trick would work in concrete.
 
Finally put a proper handle on my QC toolpost so now I don't have to use a dead blow hammer. Turns out a 1/2" nut is the perfect size to hammer into a 3/4 pipe.


attachment(7).jpeg



Turns out the brass nut in the bottom of my lathe was just loose AF. So I just cleaned everything and bolted it back in with loctite.

I think the lead screw is worn in some spots because there's diameters at which it always chatters and diameters at which it never chatters regardless of feed. I find that turning from the inside out works a lot better than turning from the outside in.

attachment(6).jpeg

attachment(5).jpeg


Better results but not great. The cross-ways lines are from sanding, not chatter.

attachment(4).jpeg
 
arse_sidewards said:
Turns out the brass nut in the bottom of my lathe was just loose AF. So I just cleaned everything and bolted it back in with loctite.

I think the lead screw is worn in some spots because there's diameters at which it always chatters and diameters at which it never chatters regardless of feed. I find that turning from the inside out works a lot better than turning from the outside in.
Click to expand...

You talking the cross-feed scre/nut?

The one on my Cinci is completely shot. It's an adjustable nut - slotted with a set screw that you tighten to spread the slot to take up wear. It's fully tight and still shit. And the screw is worn way more in some part than others so there are spots where the nut is reasonably tight and others where's it's a hotdog hallway situation.

Of course it's some goofy 7/16" left hand acme thread that doesn't exist in stock form so I can't just buy a stick of acme and machine a new screw. Going to have to single point thread the screw and nut. I need to find the right acme inserts or grind some HSS for my own.
 
bgaidan said:
Of course it's some goofy 7/16" left hand acme thread that doesn't exist in stock form so I can't just buy a stick of acme and machine a new screw. Going to have to single point thread the screw and nut. I need to find the right acme inserts or grind some HSS for my own.
Click to expand...
well it is probably some fatty stub form acme anyways

if there's enough meat to the nut, just turn you up a new screw with real fat threads to fit the worn nut

ETA: take the nut and screw out, lock the carriage gib up real tight and do all your feeding for the threading with the compound
then you'll have the nut in hand for fitting purposes
 
My leblond cross slide screw/nut has a ton of backlash, like 150thou, but I don't get chatter unless I'm switching from one feed direction to the other.

You check your gibs to make sure they're tight?
 
Yeah I was talking about the cross slide nut. Mine is just a block of brass with threads through it.

If I need to replace it I'll just buy a ball screw and nut combo. It's not like I don't got tons of space down there for it.

Gib is tight. I can go tighter, maybe.
 
My cross slide nut is a block of brass too....

Headstock bearings are a good idea. If they're tapered roller bearings then there may be some preload adjustment. If babbet, time to repour.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh