glacially slow machine shop build

[ThePanzerFuhrer]

NVH is what I'm worried about. I figure placing them on rubber on concrete should solve everything but the N and I can just throw mass at the underside of the stairs if the noise is an issue. No idea how loud these particular motors will be since I've never run them but they're both fully enclosed cases so I'm hoping they'll be on the quiet side for their size.

Mine isn’t even bolted down just sits on the concrete slab.

They are semi loud, you’ll want it away from where you are working .

 

[arse_sidewards]

Mine isn’t even bolted down just sits on the concrete slab.

They are semi loud, you’ll want it away from where you are working .

I have an existing 5hp that's hard mounted on a metal shelf in the middle of a big flat wall. It's not exactly quiet.

This is gonna be 15ft farther from me with an extra wall in between. I'm hoping that plus better mounting makes it overall quieter even though it's 3x the ponies.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

NVH is what I'm worried about. I figure placing them on rubber on concrete should solve everything but the N and I can just throw mass at the underside of the stairs if the noise is an issue. No idea how loud these particular motors will be since I've never run them but they're both fully enclosed cases so I'm hoping they'll be on the quiet side for their size.

How big is the idler motor?

My 10hp is very quiet. I can hear the electric hum but it's mildly annoying at most. I have it overhead (10ft off the floor) bolted to the roof structure on rubber isolators from McMaster, but still, very quiet. Anything else running is louder than the idler.

 

[arse_sidewards]

How big is the idler motor?

IDK. Whatever it takes to get a 5hp start and 15hp run.

My 10hp is very quiet. I can hear the electric hum but it's mildly annoying at most. I have it overhead (10ft off the floor) bolted to the roof structure on rubber isolators from McMaster, but still, very quiet. Anything else running is louder than the idler.

Mine would be quiet if the plywood wall wasn't acting like the paper in a speaker. It's actually quieter beside the RPC than it is on the other side of the wall in the shop.

 

[72Pstroke]

How big is the idler motor?

My 10hp is very quiet. I can hear the electric hum but it's mildly annoying at most. I have it overhead (10ft off the floor) bolted to the roof structure on rubber isolators from McMaster, but still, very quiet. Anything else running is louder than the idler.

Mine is mounted the same way. Hardly any noise inside the shop.
Bird nest for the natural look.

 

[cj3a]

 

[arse_sidewards]

Back to the lathe...

Last weekend I measured and re-measured the headstock taper. I am 99% sure the taper matches a B&S #10 but the corner radius at the small end is too short causing The #10 sleeve I bought to ever so slightly bottom out there before it hits the sides of the taper. There's a couple thou of free-play.

I could cut some off the tool and see if it fits and just accept that I'm gonna need to cut some off all my tools. Or I could stick a drill or mill that's a few thou larger than the small end of the taper in the tail-stock and open up the head-stock.

Additionally, this lathe has no cross-hole for removing anything, My plan is to create a drill bit guide that clamps over the OD of the spindle and use that to chain drill a cross hole that I can use a tapered drift in. Does anyone see any problem with that plan?

 

[posford]

You bump the taper out from the backside on every lathe I've ever run

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Yeah, I wouldn't drill a hole for a tapered drift. If it's a problem for you now, how did everyone in the past use that machine.

 

[bgaidan]

You bump the taper out from the backside on every lathe I've ever run

This.


Never seen a spindle with a drift hole.

 

[arse_sidewards]

There is no back side to this spindle to tap things out of. If it were that simple I wouldn't be asking. The taper is a blind hole.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

What's that knob on the end of the spindle? Almost looks like the end of a collet draw bar.

Still, I'd tap it with a brass or lead hammer before drilling holes in the spindle. There has to be a better answer.

 

[arse_sidewards]

The rear cap is fixed to the bearing block. It doesn't spin like anything relevant to the spindle would.

There does not appear to be a through bore.

There does appear to be plenty of space for a hole.

 

[Firstram]

Post your questions over on the OWWM forum!
Post some pictures of the other half of the setup. Is there a flange to pry against? How did you get it apart for the pictures?

Don't Bubba it up and drill holes in a 100 year old spindle! If you must drill a hole in something, drill a 1/8" hole through the male portion and add a grease zerk to hydraulic it out!

Some one upper mentioned that you live in a place where amazing old machine tools are almost free. Why don't you upgrade to something from the last century

 

[arse_sidewards]

Nothing is apart in those pictures. I'm just looking into the chuck.

If the chuck weren't there I probably could pry between the spindle nose and tool but I'm really not interested in craning the chuck off when I want to use centers.

 

[Firstram]

If you need a center, just turn one in the 4 jaw when you need it. I doubt the lost bed length is a problem for you!

 

[bgaidan]

Nothing is apart in those pictures. I'm just looking into the chuck.

If the chuck weren't there I probably could pry between the spindle nose and tool but I'm really not interested in craning the chuck off when I want to use centers.

I'm assuming by the age that it's a threaded spindle?

Have you ever had the chuck off? Might just be hard to gauge the scale in the pic, but it almost looks like your taper is part of your threaded chuck adapter?

 

[ThePanzerFuhrer]

As much as I like old machines that lathe looks really low on the usefulness scale. Even at a few hundred bucks I would not waste the heated space for a machine like that. That especially goes where arse lives. He lives in machine old tool heaven surely there would be a cheap through hole lathe somewhere.

 

[billybob_81067]

That especially goes where arse lives. He lives in machine old tool heaven surely there would be a cheap through hole lathe somewhere.

This. Hell, get a 4" through hole geared head lathe. I'm sure they're out there just sitting next to the dumpsters around there...

 

[ThePanzerFuhrer]

This. Hell, get a 4" through hole geared head lathe. I'm sure they're out there just sitting next to the dumpsters around there...

Jealous I want a yo mama sized through hole lathe

 

[billybob_81067]

Jealous I want a yo mama sized through hole lathe

So do I, but alas I don't live in the land where they give away machine tools.

 

[arse_sidewards]

As much as I like old machines that lathe looks really low on the usefulness scale. Even at a few hundred bucks I would not waste the heated space for a machine like that. That especially goes where arse lives. He lives in machine old tool heaven surely there would be a cheap through hole lathe somewhere.

As much as I'd like a 1930s+ geared machine the old ones have a way bigger ratio of work envelope to footprint and don't tend to break down into pieces that can go through a 28" door and belt slip makes a nice fuse. I'm basically never fucking with hydraulic cylinders so the features that you want are basically irrelevant to me.

I actually passed on half a dozen geared turret lathes from ~1940 with 16-20" swing 40-72" beds before settling on this abomination.

I'm assuming by the age that it's a threaded spindle?

Have you ever had the chuck off? Might just be hard to gauge the scale in the pic, but it almost looks like your taper is part of your threaded chuck adapter?

Never had the chuck off. I assume it's threaded on the OD and tapered on the ID as is typical for the age. What you're looking at in the pictures is the spindle. There's a threaded faceplate adapter and then a flat plate adapting that bolt pattern to the chuck.