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glacially slow machine shop build

This isn't getting the headstock off until I have the overhead crane installed so I guess I'll just have to try my best to work around it and reduce all other sources of slop in the meantime.
 
This isn't getting the headstock off until I have the overhead crane installed so I guess I'll just have to try my best to work around it and reduce all other sources of slop in the meantime.

Stick a long-ish bar in the chuck and stick an indicator on the spindle or body of the chuck and put some lateral pressure on the end of the bar and see what kind of movement you see at the spindle.
 
Pop the lid off the headstock to see what you're working with. Spin the spindle by hand and look at the rollers. If there are a bunch that aren't turning on the opposed taper bearings they are probably loose. Long bar and indicator would work as well as said above.

If it is old enough to have plain bearings the thrust bearing is probably on the back side. Should have an adjusting nut once you take off the pulley and rear seal. Don't worry about the seal, if it is old enough to have plain bearings it likely has mechanical seals as well.

For your cross slide don't forget to check the thrust bearing/bushing usually on the far end. If that is worn it will also create a bunch of lash.
 
Finally got the blast cabinet hooked up to the fume extractor. It's got enough suck to pull the gloves into the cabinet.

It had better though. I got like $200 of nickles and dimes into this motherfucking project and the blast cabinet was free.

I really shouldn't have passed on those fiberglass washdown grates from Dethmachinefab. Would have been a nice temp floor for this even if they disintigrate into fibers. I'll probably make something out of wood because steel or aluminum or anything that would mar machined aluminum parts kind of defeats the point of having a "gentle" way to clean things.

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Finally got the blast cabinet hooked up to the fume extractor. It's got enough suck to pull the gloves into the cabinet.

It had better though. I got like $200 of nickles and dimes into this motherfucking project and the blast cabinet was free.

I really shouldn't have passed on those fiberglass washdown grates from Dethmachinefab. Would have been a nice temp floor for this even if they disintigrate into fibers. I'll probably make something out of wood because steel or aluminum or anything that would mar machined aluminum parts kind of defeats the point of having a "gentle" way to clean things.

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Milk crates?
 
Got the remote hydroboost for the loader assembled for mock-up. Definitely gonna be a 10lb of shit in a 5lb bag situation when it comes to getting this mfer into the loader seeing as it's 21" long and the inside of the loader frame is 22".

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Despite buying exactly the slave cylinder I was supposed to it didn't fit so I had to touch it up.

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80s XJ master cylinder bolts right to the '00s GM van hydrboost but the pushrod depth is too deep and it requires this suppository in order for the GM pushrod to work it properly. I cut this one at 7/8. Might go 1" if needed.

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And what are these fittings? Some sort of metric O-ring boss for the pressure fittings and 1/8 NPT O-ring for the return? I need to adapt them all to #6 JIC.

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<arse_sideways> "just weld braze cobblefuck them to a JIC fitting, buying new fittings is for rich toyota owners who can't be bothered to fabricate using parts from the scrap bin and a 1980s stick welder" </arse_sideways>








:flipoff2:
 
<arse_sideways> "just weld braze cobblefuck them to a JIC fitting, buying new fittings is for rich toyota owners who can't be bothered to fabricate using parts from the scrap bin and a 1980s stick welder" </arse_sideways>

:flipoff2:
I looked and everything I could find was the same price or more expensive and had the added downside of requiring me donate two JIC fittings from my stash.

Search me up some steel 16mm and 18mm O-ring fittings that are cheaper than the adapters and I will happily go that route. :flipoff2:
 
I looked and everything I could find was the same price or more expensive and had the added downside of requiring me donate two JIC fittings from my stash.

Search me up some steel 16mm and 18mm O-ring fittings that are cheaper than the adapters and I will happily go that route. :flipoff2:
Ain't got no bolts that fit to turn into fittings on the lathe? :flipoff2:
 
Turn a split bushing to hold it :flipoff2:

I'll have to see if I can dig around and find a little chuck you can clamp in the big one. I know I've got one somewhere you can have.
I have a 8" 4-jaw and 12" 3-jaw that I get by by with.

What I really want to do is bore out the spindle for MT5 so I can run normal arbors and stuff without fucking around centering things in the 4-jaw. The spindle is currently tapered but MT4 is like a hot dog down a hallway and MT5 doesn't fit. I haven't investigated further.
 
I used those adapters on my setup. So far so good with 3k miles on them and its an Automatic truck too, so the brakes get used a lot for holding back at idle and no leaks or anything. When I built the thing, I didn't have enough 90 degree JIC fittings but I did have some CuNi in 3/8"s and my flaring tool does 37º too so that was my "I want to drive this today" fix that has just stayed there.

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I didn't have enough 90 degree JIC fittings but I did have some CuNi in 3/8"s and my flaring tool does 37º too so that was my "I want to drive this today" fix that has just stayed there.
Funny you mention that. I was planning on doing hard line for these connections and replacing a bunch of leaking steering connections with hard line at the same time. Probably gonna use steel instead of copper because I'm cheap and this will never see enough road salt for that to matter in my life.

I'm not sure why they used as much rubber as they did on this machine. The big hoses to the drive motors and pumps I get but the little hoses that just go around all the little things on the frame make no sense.
 
$150 later I hope I never have to buy a CAT50 endmill holder again :laughing:

Edit: and it took me over a year of waiting and watching for that deal to come up, just to put it in perspective.

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If anyone has a trick solution for storing these in a semi-accessible way without wasting a ton of space now would be a great time. I'm thinking run bolts through a shelf and just screw them onto the bolts for storage. Shelf should keep most of the dust off and I always wipe stuff like this down before use anyway. Tools are ~4" wide so no matter how I cut it I need 200" of space at that width in order to store 50 of them. Three 12x24 filing cabinet drawers would hold 54...
 
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Some of those look barely used.

No shell mill adapters? Collet chucks?
 
And got the other beam in.

View from inside over the lathe
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Looking in same view
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Beam over lathe
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The one we installed yesterday.
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Travelers are already cut. Gotta square up the static beams and bracket them down so they don't move before they can go in and Gotta relocate some HVAC, gas piping and electrical for them to have full range of motion. I'm not in a hurry to spend $500 on beam trolleys so don't hold your breath.
 
I'm not in a hurry to spend $500 on beam trolleys so don't hold your breath.
How many do you need and what capacity? Vevor sells them for pretty damn cheap. Yeah they're Chinese junk, but what isn't these days?

 
How many do you need and what capacity? Vevor sells them for pretty damn cheap. Yeah they're Chinese junk, but what isn't these days?

That's exactly who I plan on buying from.

Two per traveler then two the traveler that goes over the work bench. One ton trolleys all around. Add three chain hoists @ $40 a pop and you're solidly into the $400s. I'm not gonna buy all of it at once.
 
Anyone know a machine taper that is 1.300 (plus or minus a couple thou) at the big end? I'm trying to get tooling for the headstock. The tailstock is MT4.
 
I take it MT4 doesn't fit? Large end should be 1.231


Maybe B&S 10 @ 1.2597" ?
 
Also, pretty sure I have some MT4 dead centers and maybe some other random shit if you need anything.
 
I take it MT4 doesn't fit? Large end should be 1.231
Hot dog down a hallway until it reaches the bottom of the hole.

Maybe B&S 10 @ 1.2597" ?
I'll do real measuring tomorrow.

Would be hilarous if it was a B&S taper since that's generally a mill taper.

Edit: But now that I think about it it would make sense since the spindle rotates and see side loads.
 
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Hot dog down a hallway until it reaches the bottom of the hole.


I'll do real measuring tomorrow.

Would be hilarous if it was a B&S taper since that's generally a mill taper.

Edit: But now that I think about it it would make sense since the spindle rotates and see side loads.
Likely B&S. Ran a bunch of oddball shit lathes with B&S tapers
 
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