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glacially slow machine shop build

The hose in question is crimped onto about 4ft of bent steel line that runs forward to the flow divider that separates steering from the hydraulic functions. I don't really want to replace the steel line if I don't have to.

Anyone have recommendations for a (cheap chinese) flaring tool that will do a 37deg flares in steel sizes up to 1" for hydraulics (for shit like this) and stainless in small sizes (for automotive use)?

I checked the flaring tool thread but the last reply was me asking the same fucking question.
 
arse_sidewards said:
The hose in question is crimped onto about 4ft of bent steel line that runs forward to the flow divider that separates steering from the hydraulic functions. I don't really want to replace the steel line if I don't have to.

Anyone have recommendations for a (cheap chinese) flaring tool that will do a 37deg flares in steel sizes up to 1" for hydraulics (for shit like this) and stainless in small sizes (for automotive use)?

I checked the flaring tool thread but the last reply was me asking the same fucking question.
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Alternative - braze an AN or ORB or NPT fitting on to the steel line and use a standard hose. Most hose shops will do something similar for cheap.

We do that with some of our big excavators so the $3500 hose w/ integrated hard line that's a bitch to remove becomes a separate hardline and $300 hose that's easy to replace.
 
bgaidan said:
Alternative - braze an AN or ORB or NPT fitting on to the steel line and use a standard hose. Most hose shops will do something similar for cheap.
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I was gonna flare it and use a male-male JIC adapter to connect to a standard hose. I'm not a big fan of welding/brazing for thin wall high pressure plumbing. Brazing with a carbon arc torch is finicky and I don't trust my flux core skills on thin metal that much. If this was something that was 1/8 or thicker we wouldn't be having this conversation, it would already have been stick welded. :laughing:

Regardless I need to bite the bullet and buy a flare tool regardless since I need to add another valve to this for aux hydraulics and convert the steering to use a normal pump so I can ditch the flow divider.

bgaidan said:
We do that with some of our big excavators so the $3500 hose w/ integrated hard line that's a bitch to remove becomes a separate hardline and $300 hose that's easy to replace.
Click to expand...
Exactly what I'm going for but with smaller numbers.
 
arse_sidewards said:
I was gonna flare it and use a male-male JIC adapter to connect to a standard hose. I'm not a big fan of welding/brazing for thin wall high pressure plumbing. I need to bite the bullet and buy a flare tool regardless since I need to add another valve to this for aux hydraulics.


Exactly what I'm going for but with smaller numbers.
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I have your flare tool :lmao:. I’ll have to find it and take a picture. It’s beefy as fuck.

Me I would just buy a jic male turn it to fit the tube and braze it on. I have tons of brazed on fittings and they don’t fail.
 
ThePanzerFuhrer said:
I have your flare tool :lmao:. I’ll have to find it and take a picture. It’s beefy as fuck.

Me I would just buy a jic male turn it to fit the tube and braze it on. I have tons of brazed on fittings and they don’t fail.
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If you could find a part number that would be great.

Hopefully whatever it is is old enough and simple enough that the Chinese are knocking it off.

I have a carbon arc toch. Fuck brazing with that thing. Getting preheat where you want it is enough of a handful.
 
arse_sidewards said:
If you could find a part number that would be great.

Hopefully whatever it is is old enough and simple enough that the Chinese are knocking it off.

I have a carbon arc toch. Fuck brazing with that thing. Getting preheat where you want it is enough of a handful.
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Sounds like you need a torch. I could not exist without one or three.
 
ThePanzerFuhrer said:
Sounds like you need a torch. I could not exist without one or three.
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Got any tips for making a neck ring that was flap wheeled years ago and never painted (so bare steel, a little bit of surface rust) look like the rest of the bottle (i.e. beat to shit 20yo paint)?

I can handle the stamping myself :flipoff2:
 
arse_sidewards said:
Got any tips for making a neck ring that was flap wheeled years ago and never painted (so bare steel, a little bit of surface rust) look like the rest of the bottle (i.e. beat to shit 20yo paint)?

I can handle the stamping myself :flipoff2:
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Fuck it sand blast the whole tank and repaint it. Make it look like new
 
ThePanzerFuhrer said:
Fuck it sand blast the whole tank and repaint it. Make it look like new
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Won't they get uppity when the sticker that says what it's filled with and by who is missing?

It would be stupid easy to make it look new and then just stick it downstream of where I do 99% of my grinding.
 
Leaking hose is out. It wound up being shorter and easier than I thought.

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And here's the leak point.

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I'm thinking I'll just replace it with a long hose because that's what's fast and easy.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Won't they get uppity when the sticker that says what it's filled with and by who is missing?

It would be stupid easy to make it look new and then just stick it downstream of where I do 99% of my grinding.
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Lol the air has I use dngaf. They ask if I have a bottle to exchange and away we go.

None of the rings in our area say air gas they are all random names.
 
ThePanzerFuhrer said:
Lol the air has I use dngaf. They ask if I have a bottle to exchange and away we go.

None of the rings in our area say air gas they are all random names.
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There's one cheap place around here. I haven't used them yet but I don't wanna get on their shit list.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Got any tips for making a neck ring that was flap wheeled years ago and never painted (so bare steel, a little bit of surface rust) look like the rest of the bottle (i.e. beat to shit 20yo paint)?

I can handle the stamping myself :flipoff2:
Click to expand...

You have lathe big enough to turn a bottle. You can make what's left of that neck ring disappear.
 
Worked on the swivel pintle today. Other than rough surface finish I was able to get the part faced flat enough I couldn't find any light behind a straight edge which is good enough for 99.999% of fab shop stuff.

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Started working on a material and axles rack because I'm sick of axles cluttering up my property

Friendly reminder that stick welds look good if you don't suck.

I'll post pictures of the finished thing when it's, you know, finished.

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arse_sidewards said:
Started working on a material and axles rack because I'm sick of axles cluttering up my property

Friendly reminder that stick welds look good if you don't suck.

I'll post pictures of the finished thing when it's, you know, finished.

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Look at you Mr. Fancypants with your 6013 or 7018 and its fancy looking welds... :flipoff2:
 
ThePanzerFuhrer said:
I’m guessing 6011 ish. I typically only use 7018
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You mean 6013? Cause 6011 has a shit ton more spatter than that usually and the weld ripples are more defined because it doesn't wet out like other rods and solidifies a lot faster. Those welds looks like they had that nice layer of slag that comes off in one piece unlike 6011 has!

6011 is my preferred rod of choice because I'm usually welding on shitty painted/rusted steel and going for maximum penetration and don't really give a fuck about the weld appearance. :laughing:
 
billybob_81067 said:
You mean 6013? Cause 6011 has a shit ton more spatter than that usually and the weld ripples are more defined because it doesn't wet out like other rods and solidifies a lot faster. Those welds looks like they had that nice layer of slag that comes off in one piece unlike 6011 has!

6011 is my preferred rod of choice because I'm usually welding on shitty painted/rusted steel and going for maximum penetration and don't really give a fuck about the weld appearance. :laughing:
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Same here, my 6011 welds are much more spattery, I can sometimes get a 7018 weld that looks that nice, so far it all has stuck together pretty well, so no issues there.

Aaron Z
 
billybob_81067 said:
Look at you Mr. Fancypants with your 6013 or 7018 and its fancy looking welds... :flipoff2:
Click to expand...

That's 7018. I pretty much exclusively use 7018 and only pull out the 6011 when it's a space I can't get down to bare steel and having a good root is highly critical.
 
Worked on the swivel pintle. Of course the bolt pattern is right where the thickness transition is. The pilot drill was fine but subsequent drills wanted to fuck off so I cut a flat on the mill. It's amazing how a carbide rougher goes through an axle like it's aluminum.

I just eyeballed the flat area. It's gonna need to be bigger to fit the head of whatever fastener I use.

Anyone see any problem with cutting reliefs like this? I could build it up with weld and then drill through that. The thin area is still thicker than 1/4 and it's not exactly mild steel. I'd rather have the thicker area because a longer bolt/stud provides more clamping force but I'm worried about heat treat since every axle shaft I've ever encountered has been case hardened.

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Got the axle rack done. Will probably fill it up by the end of the week. I got five axles just sitting around.

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Two D80s, a 70, a 60, a closed knuckle 44 and a decent amount of fabrication material and still got plenty of room left.

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Getting that in the door was fun because everything is a sloppy mud pit right now. I miss winter.

I had to buy the truck axle as part of a package deal. For a brief second I was thinking "I'll just slap some 8x6.5 spindles on it and then use it on the Ranger build". Then once I got it on the rack the size difference compared to a D80 became obvious. :laughing:



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Loader still does loader things great.

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Yeah I know I need forks. I have the a pair of pin on forks, just need to build the carriage. Gonna wait until at least april when there's no chance I'll need the bucket for snow before taking it off and converting to SSQA and starting to build a carriage.
 
Fucked around with steering joints today. Everbody think loctite green is a suitable replacement for staking in the joints?

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