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glacially slow machine shop build

GLTHFJ60 said:
It's gotta make less than rated power, and probably run hotter too. I would wager it only works because of that flywheel.
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Less power for sure, same as running a machine with a static converter. Works on lots of stuff if you don't need full power, got a big lathe with the set up too. It doesn't work well with hydraulic machines. No heat problem but if it was something under a larger constant load I'd imagine it would.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
It's gotta make less than rated power, and probably run hotter too. I would wager it only works because of that flywheel.
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general wisdom is 2/3 rated power output

my idler motor RPC kicks out quite a bit of heat, I suspect from the huge power factor issues feeding a motor that expects 120 degree phase separation power that is 180 degrees apart
 
I'd be lying if I said I wasn't tempted to just run my machines off single phase with a static converter built onto each one.


15 down to 10hp is fine for the lathe. De-rating the mill from 10 to 6.5ish is fine since it came with a 7.5.
 
arse_sidewards said:
I'd be lying if I said I wasn't tempted to just run my machines off single phase with a static converter built onto each one.


15 down to 10hp is fine for the lathe. De-rating the mill from 10 to 6.5ish is fine since it came with a 7.5.
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You'll spend more on the static for the 15 than you would on a rotary that will run everything. And with the rotary you won't have to go buy another static next time you drag a new machine home.

I don't think you'd be happy running the lathe on momentum like dethmachinefab does with his press. Too much starting/stopping/reversing with normal lathe operations. Fuck waiting for it to spool up every time. If you had an idling clutch it'd probably be fine but I doubt that gearbox is synchronized and probably wouldn't like being used as a clutch.


Something like my Cincinnati Hydrashift would probably be ok on a static. It runs at constant speed and has a clutch and hydraulic transmission to change gears and reverse. I have a Chinese VFD that I share between it and my manual mill for the time being. Eventually I'll find a deal on a big motor to make an RPC.
 
It's like $100 of caps, wiring bits momentary switches and motor starters to build a static converter. It's the same $100 of stuff plus cost of motor do build an RPC.

When you start multiplying that hundred dollars by multiple machines it quickly turns into a "how cheap can I get a bigger motor for an RPC that will run it all" situation.

The current lathe gearbox will not be used when I convert to the big motor but it would certainly add a lot of work to use a clutch. The Cincinatti already has a clutch.

RPC is definitly the easy button which is why I'm holding out for a big cheap 20-30hp motor rather than prioritizing the Cincinnati and putting a big motor on the lathe.
 
SPC's are a PIA.

There is typically a bit of fiddlefucking with them and some machines absolutely hate them. The guy I bought my mill from said it was on one at one point and said it chattered like crazy when it ran.

I informed him that it was likely a rapid cycle situation and he had at that point taken life off of the motor.:shaking:

The reason drives and RPC's cost what they cost is because they are worth the lack of headache.
 
Still need to make loader alternator work.

Posting so I don't forget which terminal to jumper.

ALTj.JPG

credit: GM alternator one wire conversion?
 
I jumpered the alt and got nothing so I guess I'll just buy a 12SI for a Chevy van and hope for the best.

Starter in the Hough is dying. Normally I have to click the solenoid 10-20x before the starter actually spins but now it takes minutes of clicking it. I was lucky to get it back in the garage.

On the plus side I let it warm up real good and that seemed to solve the stumbling problem
 
Awhile back I picked up two SM465s and a pass drop 208. I was gonna sell them until I realized that they'll make the perfect gearbox for running the lathe with the big motor. The shifter also winds up in a pretty ergonomic place but will need bending. Right now I have less than 150rpm max so this isn't a low priority but it isn't a high one either.

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arse_sidewards said:
Starter in the Hough is dying. Normally I have to click the solenoid 10-20x before the starter actually spins but now it takes minutes of clicking it. I was lucky to get it back in the garage
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take the sillyndiddilydoid apart and clean the corrosion and fossilized mouse shit outta it
something that old I'd think would be held together with screws instead of being crimped together like every infuriating modern POS
 
Internet says I need ~3000sfm for a metal belt sander/grinder. With a ~3" wheel that works out to 4k RPM after assuming that the motor will bog a couple hundred RPM. Current pulley is ~2.5 so I'll go digging through my stash and see if I have a pulley in the 6-9" range.

Just posting this shit so I don't forget it.

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$200 later I now have four DA cylinders, one SA cylinder, one electronic control valve and one manual two spool control valve. If only I had bought all this shit before buying the eBay control valve. Whatever, either way they're both gonna get used.

The cylinders will proceed to collect dust for the next 2-5yr while I get around to the project they will be for. :flipoff2:

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Belt sander is done, sort of.

The 1/2hp motor doesn't have the torque to get it moving. In its defense is kind of hard to turn over by hand so I'll check out the bearings. This thing is ~40yr old and was probably in a woodworking shop so lord knows it probably has shielded bearings with no grease left in them. Or I might try a slightly smaller pulley.

In other news I installed a new starter on the Hough. It starts faster than ever now. That gravity fed carb really appreciates the extra airflow when cranking. Also I mostly fixed the hesitation/bogging problem by adjusting the timing.

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^ I've got a little bit bigger craftsman sander like that that the PO left in my pole barn. Planned on restoring it for wood working, but you're kind of inspiring me to soup it up for metal.
 
arse_sidewards said:
In other news I installed a new starter on the Hough. It starts faster than ever now. That gravity fed carb really appreciates the extra airflow when cranking. Also I mostly fixed the hesitation/bogging problem by adjusting the timing.
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my updraft shenanigans really liked fresh gas
I'd drained out the 40yr old varnish and dumped in new gas but that wasn't enough apparently, had to slosh that around and drain it again in order to get it... rinsed out enough to start good
don't fill it, just dump in enough to get you through the job, then drain the tank back into your well sealed can

oh and I still think you're an ass for that starter thread :flipoff2:
 
Half of everyone has told me that that the old updraft carbs will run on anything vaguely flammable. The others have said to be careful and only feed it good stuff like it's an outboard. Considering that this carb was like $20 I think I'll risk it.

[486] said:
oh and I still think you're an ass for that starter thread :flipoff2:
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We both know that to get the info you want out of people sometimes you gotta play dumb.

And no, the Bobcat starter didn't work. I needed to go to a non-reduction starter that looked the same as mine to get something where the bendix was interchangeable. All the international stuff seems to be 10-tooth. My shit was 12.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Half of everyone has told me that that the old updraft carbs will run on anything vaguely flammable. The others have said to be careful and only feed it good stuff like it's an outboard. Considering that this carb was like $20 I think I'll risk it.
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the bowl design on my zenith is absolutely tits for separating out sand and dirt, its got a standpipe in the bowl for the jets and a channel to the drain cock so the sand and such all rattles down eventually... self-cleaning

it however does not like vaporizing anything with a vapor pressure below... whatever winter gas being used in summer is :c
 
Gotta take pics of the final product but I finally put a real fuel cap on the fucked up filler neck by sticking a split shaft collar over it and bolting a boat fuel cap to that.

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And the bogging thing turned out to be timing. Here's my brother driving it.

 
Here's the fuel cap.

I precisely machined a four bolt pattern in a split shaft collar, precisely drilled an adapter plate to cover it and then plasma cut out an ugly as fuck hole to bolt the fuel neck into with screws that were too big. :laughing:

I should probable trim the RTV but whatever.

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way too much effort
just solder a radiator filler neck on there
rad cap has a vacuum breaker valve and it'll even hold pressure to keep your gas nice and fresh :flipoff2:
 
So back to the belt sander....

Small pulley is 2-1/2. Roller is 3", big pulley is 9" motor is 1700rpm and 1/2hp. That comes out to 4806sfm. The 9" pulley was clearly way too big because the motor does not have enough power to start or move that.

The HF 4x36 belt sander has a 3/4 motor for comparison. Mine is 6x36.

A 4.5 pulley with the 2-1/2 would double the torque and get me 2403 sfm.

I could run the 9" pulley and the 4.5 for 2670 sfm.

All my reading says 3000sfm up for metal but all my reading has been online forums full of tool snobs circle jerking about material removal rates and who don't think twice about telling other people how to spend their money. I know for a fact tons of woodworking stuff runs 1500-2000sfm and I've found a few people saying they prefer the slower speeds for low and controlled material removal rates. I know tons of people use woodworking belt sanders on metal with satisfactory results so it can't be that bad.

If I run the motor and sander 1:1 I get 1335 sfm. That's on the low side. I haven't seen any woodworking stuff under 1500 but I only have 1/2hp to work with here.

Rather than ask for your advice I've just gone ahead and bought the pulleys. I invite the usual idiots to tell me how a slow belt sander is going to be so much worse than no belt sander. :flipoff2:
 
[486] said:
way too much effort
just solder a radiator filler neck on there
rad cap has a vacuum breaker valve and it'll even hold pressure to keep your gas nice and fresh :flipoff2:
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Says the guy who turns on his truck by mashing wires together.

Yeah I would have just grabbed a 90s car filler neck and welded it on had I not already filled the fuel tank. :homer:

Yeah I could have emptied it but I h ad everything except the boat filler neck lying around and what the hell else am I gonna use a 2-5/8 shaft collar for?
 
arse_sidewards said:
Yeah I would have just grabbed a 90s car filler neck and welded it on had I not already filled the fuel tank. :homer:
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old people were way smart
soldering coppers were a thing, I've got a few that I've never tried using but they're there if I ever need to do something like that haha
 
Soldering is easy. All I had to fix a radiator one time was brazing rod. Now that was tricky.
 
Even with the 2.5 pulley on the motor and the 4.5 on the sander 1/2hp isn't enough.

I guess I just let the belt sander collect dust until I find a better motor.
 
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