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glacially slow machine shop build

Finally got the bench grinders hung on the wall. Steel need to get some work rests for the bottom grinder. I look forward to never chucking a grinder in the vise again.


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arse_sidewards said:
Finally got the bench grinders hung on the wall. Steel need to get some work rests for the bottom grinder. I look forward to never chucking a grinder in the vise again.


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How funny, I have the twin to one of your top two grinders sitting in the shop.
Picked it up, then stumbled on another 3/4 horse, so I'm using that one.

Aaron Z
 
It rained on Saturday so I got the 2nd axis rail for the DRO mounted.

Tapping the end holes sucked.

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Finally got the sand blast cabinet that's been kicking around for a year mounted on the wall.

L-channel on the back

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Inside reinforcement.

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3/8 x 5" tapcons for the top mounts and 5/16 x 4 for the bottom.
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Mounted right beside the grinders

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With just enough room to get medium sized parts in the door without flipping the grinders up.

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Now it will probably sit there not hooked up to anything for a year or more.
 
What's this brass fitting coming out of the back of my compressor head near the breather and why can't I just put a plug in it?

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Most likely a centrifugal unloader.


Got any specs on the compressor head?
 
bgaidan said:
Most likely a centrifugal unloader.


Got any specs on the compressor head?
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No specs. There isn't even a tag on it. The last owner bought this head as a replacement and never got around to installing it so that explains why there's no plumbing for an unloader.
 
Does it blow off when it stops spinning?


My Emglo has one, but it doesn't seem to work. Guessing it's just gummed up inside, but it looked like a bitch to get the cover off to get to it. So I just cracked the fittings on the lines at the heads as a temporary fix....10 years ago. :laughing: It probably costs me 1/10 cfm when it's running. Some day I'll fix it.
 
[486] said:
those style ain't usually ported through the castings, least I've never seen one...
gotta have an external line from the HP discharge over to it
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Derp. You're right. It would let air IN to it from the heads when it stops spinning.


It inspired me to look up the parts drawing on mine. Should come right off, I just never got too motivated to fuck with it. Gook news is I can buy the entire assembly - cover, valve and all for around $200.
 
X2 it's an unloader. Gets plumbed into the compressor outlet line to the tank with a T. Tank has a 1 way fill valve on it. Compressor stops running and the unloader vents pressure from the tank valve all the way through the compressor head.
 
Got the compressor motor wired up today. Took way longer than it should have because I thought the aux contacts were the control contacts on the magnetic starter because it wasn't labeled conventionally because China. I tried to get the delay timer running but it wouldn't work and the multi-meter said that contacts that should be NC were open so maybe I fried it fucking with the starter. Whatever, manual switches worked fine for the first 100yr. Ordered belts to actually make it run. Still need to put an outlet beside it.

Has anyone ever seen a "good" solution to storing tooling that doesn't involve wasting tons of space? This is the stuff I need to store. I'm leaning toward one long shelf at the top of the wall and using a crane to get them on/off.

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Got the compressor plumbed today The fins on the pulley say that the head wants a different direction of rotation than the motor is wired for (I just copied the last owner's rotation direction assuming it was correct.

I don't have any reason to believe it's anything other than splash lube and all the inline 2cyl compressor cranks I've seen have TDC 180 apart so the 2nd stage shouldn't care so unless someone has a good reason I shouldn't I'm gonna run this bitch in reverse.
 
So I had to make this ghetto splice to get power to the compressor. The compressor is in a poorly constructed addition to my garage that's in the process of falling off so it had to be somewhat watertight.

I used split bolts on the conductors, normal cheap tape to electrically insulate them more cheap tape for an initial wrap and then fancy mining tape for the final water proof layer. There's literally a hole in the roof right where this splice is so it's gonna get rained on. :laughing:

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Don't worry, I zip tied it to the air line when I was done. :flipoff2:
 
billybob_81067 said:
That is essentially how some of our 15HP submersible pumps are wired up. Split nuts and gobs of tape.

It'll be fine.
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Some direct bury stuff gets done this way too. That's where I learned it.

I was hoping one of the resident clipboard warriors would go off half cocked thinking it was hack. :laughing:
 
Forgot to post this one yesterday but the outlet flange on my compressor was broken.

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Luckily it wasn't designed by lazy people so the casting is already the right size to tap for 3/4 pipe.

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Oh, and the hose that came with it just barely fit. :laughing:

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So today's project was to fuck around with an intake manifold because the flex shaft distributor I made a few months ago had to much slop to run well enough to do more than drive around my yard.

Here's how the intake sits in the vehicle. Note the thermostat housing flange just barely fits between the alternator and coil.

This intake doesn't fit a distributor. The runners are too far back and the #6 runner wants to be in the same spot as the distributor body.
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This intake does work with the distributor but the thermostat housing is where the alternator wants to be.
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Well, not anymore it's not.
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After a little more grinding I got it working. Here they are side by side.
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I used the old intake to make a jig to fit the new intake
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This will locate the thermostat housing flange
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And that's as far as I got. I need to get another thermostat housing. I could have welded that one on but the area on the outside of one bolt hole has been clearanced and a replacement is $12 and won't have 20yr of oil and road grime soaked into the casting.
 
[486] said:
that's with those white flux stick rods, right?
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Yeah.

They are not a fun rod to run. They burn real fast and needs a real short arc length so you're cramming the rod in there almost like you're using wet 6011 as a cutting lance and it's hard to get travel speed correct for the amount of metal being deposited. If I was using these to fix something structural (accessory drive bracket, trans tail-housing, whatever) I think I'd need to run a pound of them in flat position in one go before I got good enough to do an acceptable job.

I'm probably gonna fix the leaks with aluminum brazing rods.
 
Anyone got any suggestions for getting this manifold up to the ~750deg it takes to aluminum braze?

Biggest burner on the gas stove will only do ~550. :laughing:

I could do it with the carbon arc torch but I'm pretty sure I'd over shoot and melt/oxidize shit and generally be a fuckin mess and wind up with more leaks than I started with.

I'm thinking throw it on top of the burn barrel next time I run the sawmill or just use normal flux and solder to seal the leaks.
 
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