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"built" zuk axles?

Gwagensteve said:
The Kick/Tracker rear ring gear is around 7.25 Burmese Laatm diameter. It's nowhere near 9". I'll see if I can get a more accurate measurement tomorrow.
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89-98?

Have you played with the 99-05? Its supposed to be bigger. I can get a more accurate measurement on that also.
 
Gwagensteve said:
No I haven't., but there can't be much in it - the thirds are interchangeable back to the 89-98.
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ZOR calls them 9" diffs, I'm not sure if that's accurate. I have 2 in my shop right now, they *look* a little bigger than a Toyota 8" but I'm not sure. I ha e to pull them both apart to switch my mini spool over. I'll get an accurate diameter then. I'm also curious what the pinion diameter is vs a Toyota. I did read that you have to modify the older housings to get the newer 3rd to fit.
 
99-05 is the same 7.5 rear diff as the earlier ones.
 
Alex said:
99-05 is the same 7.5 rear diff as the earlier ones.
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Well thank you for adding to all the convoluted info on 2nd gen vs 1st gen trackers. :rolleyes:

I just measured my 99 4.62 3rd and it's 7 7/8s/7.9" definitely no where near 9", but also bigger than the 1st gen.

What's silly is the axle shafts are 1.5" all the way until the go into the carrier then neck way down to 26 spline. So they're actually weaker than the 1st gen or samurai since they won't twist evenly. Too bad they didn't go to a bigger spline at the diff with these.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Well thank you for adding to all the convoluted info on 2nd gen vs 1st gen trackers. :rolleyes:

I just measured my 99 4.62 3rd and it's 7 7/8s/7.9" definitely no where near 9", but also bigger than the 1st gen.

What's silly is the axle shafts are 1.5" all the way until the go into the carrier then neck way down to 26 spline. So they're actually weaker than the 1st gen or samurai since they won't twist evenly. Too bad they didn't go to a bigger spline at the diff with these.
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Huh, I could have sworn they were the same size. My original rear 3rd in my hybrid housing on my samurai was out of a 97 2 door 16v 3 speed auto, so it was 4.30 gears. I blew that diff up and used a 4.30 rear diff out of a manual v6 grand vitara. Are they just the same housing bolt pattern?

The later 1st gen trackers that had slide on rear drums instead of the bolt on ones have the necked down shafts too.
 
Alex said:
Huh, I could have sworn they were the same size. My original rear 3rd in my hybrid housing on my samurai was out of a 97 2 door 16v 3 speed auto, so it was 4.30 gears. I blew that diff up and used a 4.30 rear diff out of a manual v6 grand vitara. Are they just the same housing bolt pattern?

The later 1st gen trackers that had slide on rear drums instead of the bolt on ones have the necked down shafts too.
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Supposed to be swappable, yes. I'll know for sure here soon.
 
So I've really been noticing how poor the steering angle is on the zuk axles. With a spool rear, even in 2wd, it's comical how sharp it doesn't turn. Obviously, airing down, and in 4wd with the front auto locker isn't helping.

I found an old thread on zuwharrie that someone mentioned grinding down the "stops" aka felt bolts, ot just replacing them with countersunk Allen heads. I think I'm going to give it a shot, I can't deal with a tiny rig that turns worse than a 4runner. Will report here if I blow the birds up this weekend.
 
FWIW I ran 33x10.5 tsl radials on steelies with stock axles - both welded with 5.13 and I beat the absolute balls off it in Vermont and CT. Never broke a thing. That was fun with that setup.
 
WoodburyZuk said:
FWIW I ran 33x10.5 tsl radials on steelies with stock axles - both welded with 5.13 and I beat the absolute balls off it in Vermont and CT. Never broke a thing. That was fun with that setup.
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I'd say that's about the limit. Guy I wheeled with was on those 34" pizza cutter TSLs and he'd snap an axle on the dumbest of things.

and any time he'd snap one, his immediate reaction would be to punch the window. You could always tell how many axles he snapped by the number of punch marks, or when he went got had a new window installed. :laughing:
 
woods said:
I'd say that's about the limit. Guy I wheeled with was on those 34" pizza cutter TSLs and he'd snap an axle on the dumbest of things.
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Maybe I got lucky. I had Armstrong steering at the time, so it was a chore to saw the wheel lock-lock.
 
WoodburyZuk said:
Maybe I got lucky. I had Armstrong steering at the time, so it was a chore to saw the wheel lock-lock.
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Yea, same with my buddy. He had legs for arms. But yea, rear axles were always snapping. Pretty much every time we went out he'd have to limp back. He once snapped one, started turning around, and snapped the other while simply turning around on the trail. :laughing:
 
It's wierd how much these stories vary.

I never broke a rear axle on my first Sami. Wilson is running 35x12.50s and managed to break one, but was pretty much trying to break it in his front yard on a pile of rocks. :laughing:

I've gone back and forth on the long field rear axles. It's tempting to try and go bigger with the hybrid housing. I figured if i can get some bigger spider gears welded into the diff, the rest is easy. Could even just go set 20 bearing cups and get cut to length 28 spline 9" shafts for dirt cheap.
 
Stories vary. Just like the rona :homer:

I just did Toyota axles because it was the cool thing to do at the time. :lmao:
 
WoodburyZuk said:
FWIW I ran 33x10.5 tsl radials on steelies with stock axles - both welded with 5.13 and I beat the absolute balls off it in Vermont and CT. Never broke a thing. That was fun with that setup.
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No idea how you did that.

I broke stock rear shafts at will on 31s. Silverbacks broke the same way.

Funny someone brought up this thread, the current owner of my rig just hit me up yesterday because he broke an RCV front shaft, still on 31s. Granted, they are 7 years old by now.
 
Well the felt bolts being a limit to steering angle was a bust, at least with a kick box. I took out the 2 that were touching and it made almost no difference. Box just doesn't have enough throw.
 
Shorten the pitman arm or swap to full hydro.
 
Brainfart, sorry.
You know what I mean.
 
Bebop said:
Brainfart, sorry.
You know what I mean.
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:laughing:

Ya, I'm running hiems, so a double shear longer arm might be a good idea. Then I can tuck the drag link even higher. I'll have to disconnect the drag link and see what kind of angles are possible. Not time for that now though.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Well the felt bolts being a limit to steering angle was a bust, at least with a kick box. I took out the 2 that were touching and it made almost no difference. Box just doesn't have enough throw.
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Well, I should clarify a little. It does steer very slightly sharper. Mostly one way, since I apparently need to adjust my drag link. When I moved it and heard the tire rub the leaf, I realized it did help. I'd say if you have a kick box, either grind the bolts down a bit, or just throw in regular headed bolts. Should be about right for the stock kick box throw.
 
Bebop said:
No idea how you did that.

I broke stock rear shafts at will on 31s. Silverbacks broke the same way.

Funny someone brought up this thread, the current owner of my rig just hit me up yesterday because he broke an RCV front shaft, still on 31s. Granted, they are 7 years old by now.
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That sucks, I think I wound up with silverbacks as that was all that was available at the time iirc. This was where the left rear popped.
 

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I read a lot of people saying the Silverback were weaker than stock :flipoff2:

Kinda hard to believe, and all those posts were old. Trail gear "longfields" were out of stock?
 
I heard the same thing about them, hence why I went back to stock rear shafts.
At the time the Longfields weren't offered. It was like 7/8 years ago.

Funny enough, after I sold it, the next owners never broke anything. I guess it's driver related too :grinpimp:
 
Wish we still had a full floater kit available in the US. Might have to build my own.
 
Full float is sweet, but what's the point if you're still 26 spline?

I think I'd rather have semi float bearings meant for a full size truck and much larger axles.

I'd also think about full float with a unit bearing. But jk or similar have the big nut to hold the axle in, so it wouldn't be just a simple double spline shaft. Unless you could just have them put c clip grooves on either side of the unit bearing :confused:

You can get 99-04 D60 unit bearings in 5x5.5, but that would be a little excessive :laughing:

I'm really thinking about just taking a 2nd gen axle (60" wms) cutting about 6" out of the passenger side and then having some custom shafts made for whatever spider gears I can cram into the kick diff. The later housing uses bigger wheel bearings, and basically has 35 spline sized shafts all the way until the diff.

Or get an alignment bar setup (which I want anyway) retube and add set 20 ends. A lot of work for stupid zuk shit, but it's fun building axles and I want to stay light wieght.
 
The easy solution is a custom length small bearing Ford 9" semi float shaft.
Then a set of custom broached/EDM 28sp side gears and you're in business.

That's the easiest and strongest solution that doesn't require fabrication IMO.
 
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