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"built" zuk axles?

If you shorten the axle from tracker to sami width, could you respline 2 long stock axles to 30sp yota or 31sp Ford?

The Sami long side is 1" longer :laughing:

Honestly, new semifloat shafts are so plentiful, they really aren't that expensive to have made. If I get to the limit of the Sami axle shafts, I think I would get a 2nd gen rear and narrow it to about 2" wider than a Sami and just have shafts made for those bearings and whatever spline is easier. Either machine down a mini spool or just grind down some spider gears to fit and weld them in:laughing:
 
What do you call 2nd gen axles ?
 
What do you call 2nd gen axles ?

99-05? Trackers and vitara.

Theyre 60" wide and as far as I have read the ring gear is even a little bigger than the 89-98 track kicks. The bearings are the same OD as the first gen, but a bigger ID. They also went away from the weird 4 bolt axle shafts. Basically all the ingredients for a pretty decent axle, but for some reason decided to stick with the little 26 spline at the diff.
 
99-05? Trackers and vitara.

Theyre 60" wide and as far as I have read the ring gear is even a little bigger than the 89-98 track kicks. The bearings are the same OD as the first gen, but a bigger ID. They also went away from the weird 4 bolt axle shafts. Basically all the ingredients for a pretty decent axle, but for some reason decided to stick with the little 26 spline at the diff.

10-4, good to know.
So far, what I like is taking a ARB locker and making the splines bigger and boring the carrier to fit some 31sp Ford shafts.
I'm just wondering if there is enough meat in the ARB bearing journals to do so.
 
10-4, good to know.
So far, what I like is taking a ARB locker and making the splines bigger and boring the carrier to fit some 31sp Ford shafts.
I'm just wondering if there is enough meat in the ARB bearing journals to do so.

I think so, I don't have a mic, but the ID of the carrier was a little over 1 1/4" 31 spline is 1.32" so they'll either fit, or just need a hair trimmed. The carrier was pretty thick there as well, I'm guessing the bearings are almost 2" ID.

It does get to a point though where it's hard to justify the zuk stuff. Especially when the rears don't seem terribly weak, seems like the long field chromos and the bigger center should be pretty good.

On the other hand, if you can get Arb to put bigger side gears in, the bigger axles won't be that much.
 
It does get to a point though where it's hard to justify the zuk stuff. Especially when the rears don't seem terribly weak, seems like the long field chromos and the bigger center should be pretty good.

I could break 26sp axles (stock or chromo) at will with my samurai on 31s
I'm trying not to have this happen again.
 
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I could break 26sp axles (stock or chromo) at will with my samurai on 31s
I'm trying not to have this happen again.

Exactly, I went through the same learning curve, as soon as I installed a mini spool in the rear I started breaking axles, 31" old school mtr's and 5:38's that I won at a Zuk party. Moved to toyotas and have had zero axle issues since.

IF i did another stock sami I would leave the rear open and lunchbox in the front. spua peej springs. I have seen the 3 inch chinamart springs snap like a twig more than once and on different rigs.
 
I could break 26sp axles (stock or chromo) at will with my samurai on 31s
I'm trying not to have this happen again.

What brand? According to Myron at ZOR, the silver backs are super weak, possibly worse than stock, but the TG/longfields are a decent upgrade.

I've never broken a rear, my first Sami I didn't run long with zuk axles, but I was 16 and beat it pretty good on 32s. This one saw some pretty good abuse last summer with the 32 sxs tires. Even went to Fordyce and followed rigs on 43s+(kinda) :laughing: Wilson has been trying to break his on 35s. Finally broke one rear being a complete derelict on the rocks in his yard. I don't think they are weak by any means.

Right now I have 3 complete Sami rears, so I'll just see what it takes to break them, if I do, I'll go from there.
 
I do not want Yota axles. I'd like to stay on 31" but just make the suzuki axles live.

The front axle after some RCV shafts and a solid spacer was a concern.
Rear was, so that what I'm worried about.

I like the Ford 31sp route.

Gonna have to truss the shit out of the housing too. I've always felt it flexing was one of the causes of shaft failure.

I broke 3 stock ones and 1 silverback. Every time it took out the side gear and the carrier. Get's old quick.
 
I do not want Yota axles. I'd like to stay on 31" but just make the suzuki axles live.

The front axle after some RCV shafts and a solid spacer was a concern.
Rear was, so that what I'm worried about.

I like the Ford 31sp route.

Gonna have to truss the shit out of the housing too. I've always felt it flexing was one of the causes of shaft failure.

I broke 3 stock ones and 1 silverback. Every time it took out the side gear and the carrier. Get's old quick.

Talk to ZOR about their housing and 28 spline axles.
 
I need to.
But they only advertise a mini-spool with them. Not interested in that.

I would contact Arb and see what other side gears they can put in the ARB for the track kick. From what I've read they try to keep internals the same across similar sized units. I'm not 100% sure if this is true. Might luck out though.
 
I would contact Arb and see what other side gears they can put in the ARB for the track kick. From what I've read they try to keep internals the same across similar sized units. I'm not 100% sure if this is true. Might luck out though.

I'll just have them EDM to whatever spline count I need. That's not a problem. My only question was on the carrier bearing journal size.
The rest should work.
 
I'll just have them EDM to whatever spline count I need. That's not a problem. My only question was on the carrier bearing journal size.
The rest should work.

It's definitely big enough for 28-31 spline. Like I said, you may have to shave just a hair off for the 31 spline.
 
I wonder if diamond would build a track kick axle? :laughing:​​​​​​

Not sure.
I know where there is a set of sidewinder axles with ARBs ft/rr for sale.
Broken shafts all around, hence why I wanted to plan the upgrade.
 
Not sure.
I know where there is a set of sidewinder axles with ARBs ft/rr for sale.
Broken shafts all around, hence why I wanted to plan the upgrade.

Refresh my memory on wtf a sidewinder axle is? I'm thinking that's an old trail Tough product.
 
Refresh my memory on wtf a sidewinder axle is? I'm thinking that's an old trail Tough product.

Original spidertrax housings. Take a kick centersection.
There has been multiple versions but the ones I know off are semi float rear with factory shafts and have dana44 knuckles front with a adapted samurai spindles/hubs and custom 26sp shafts.
 
Original spidertrax housings. Take a kick centersection.
There has been multiple versions but the ones I know off are semi float rear with factory shafts and have dana44 knuckles front with a adapted samurai spindles/hubs and custom 26sp shafts.

Oh that's right.

The D44 outters would be ok if you could get full 30 spline inners.
 
Oh that's right.

The D44 outters would be ok if you could get full 30 spline inners.

My idea would be to install the actual dana 44 spindles hubs back on, put 31sp inners front and rear and enjoy.
 
I had thought about similar ideas to what yall are talking. Taking the kick axle and grafting yota/9" outers on it. If yota, I would build to accept minitruck axles. If 9" it doesnt really matter.

Also, if you can do it in the rear, I would use a rear kick axle to build a front, most likely to run yota or 30 spline d44 axles.

All of this has my brain turning... but kicks and their parts seem to be hard to find, or more $$ than theyre worth, around here.
 
I had thought about similar ideas to what yall are talking. Taking the kick axle and grafting yota/9" outers on it. If yota, I would build to accept minitruck axles. If 9" it doesnt really matter.

Also, if you can do it in the rear, I would use a rear kick axle to build a front, most likely to run yota or 30 spline d44 axles.

All of this has my brain turning... but kicks and their parts seem to be hard to find, or more $$ than theyre worth, around here.

Like I said, once you start pricing custom arb's and housings, it's kinda pointless. The money you save on r&p gears is long gone.

The only reason I am considering the bigger rear shafts is I'm pretty sure Dutchman or Moser will make them for ~$500. Then it's just turning down a mini spool or whatever for the diff.

I'm kinda married to the zuk axles with my tracks. Toyota axles would need a 3-4" spacer in the front. Every lb counts for me also.
 
Like I said, once you start pricing custom arb's and housings, it's kinda pointless. The money you save on r&p gears is long gone.

The only reason I am considering the bigger rear shafts is I'm pretty sure Dutchman or Moser will make them for ~$500. Then it's just turning down a mini spool or whatever for the diff.

I'm kinda married to the zuk axles with my tracks. Toyota axles would need a 3-4" spacer in the front. Every lb counts for me also.

Agreed. My plan has been to spool or whatever for the diff also. Basically throwing a stronger setup together for as cheap as possible. If ARB is an option, might look into it down the road.

For me, the rig would have 35" tires max. I know that is pushing zuk axles to their limit, but want to maximize the clearance as much as possible. I still think trying to adapt a portal would be nice, but they arent cheap either.
 
Agreed. My plan has been to spool or whatever for the diff also. Basically throwing a stronger setup together for as cheap as possible. If ARB is an option, might look into it down the road.

For me, the rig would have 35" tires max. I know that is pushing zuk axles to their limit, but want to maximize the clearance as much as possible. I still think trying to adapt a portal would be nice, but they arent cheap either.

The kick diff is actually slightly bigger than the Toyota diff so clearance isn't any better.

If you want to bash on it, just go toyota axles and shave them. I shaved my last toyota axles in my 4runner and it's a pretty big difference really. You could even buy the TG offset axles and cut and weld your own housing if you want to save money and weight. Offset diffs drag less too. Or you can buy a Tacoma or 3rd gen 4runner axle and just narrow one side 5" and have the one axle resplined.

If you want to really try to save weight and maybe drive a little smarter. Keep the Sami axles. Run the lightest wheels and tires you can. Some adapters like I have and some sxs wheels and 35x10s or find some stock OJ bronco alcoas and run the sxs tires on those.
 
Well I ruined another axle :laughing:​​​​​​

Cut the center out of my parts rig. I really thought the ID was the same as the Sami tube OD. Well, it wasn't :homer:

I'm going to try to just retube the 1st gen axle now. Hopefully I can find a tune that fits tight inside that axle.
 
The kick diff is actually slightly bigger than the Toyota diff so clearance isn't any better.

If you want to bash on it, just go toyota axles and shave them. I shaved my last toyota axles in my 4runner and it's a pretty big difference really. You could even buy the TG offset axles and cut and weld your own housing if you want to save money and weight. Offset diffs drag less too. Or you can buy a Tacoma or 3rd gen 4runner axle and just narrow one side 5" and have the one axle resplined.

If you want to really try to save weight and maybe drive a little smarter. Keep the Sami axles. Run the lightest wheels and tires you can. Some adapters like I have and some sxs wheels and 35x10s or find some stock OJ bronco alcoas and run the sxs tires on those.

I hadnt compared the kick and toyota axles side to side, so that is good to know. I should have realized it, as I believe the kick ring gear is larger? My situation is a little different, that I am starting with a gutted kick vs a sami... I can find a set of sami axles, but it is possibly best to just pair the kick rear with yota front and convert one of the patterns, or go yotas F&R. Lately I have been thinking about building a long travel IFS for it, maybe a long time down the road.
 
I hadnt compared the kick and toyota axles side to side, so that is good to know. I should have realized it, as I believe the kick ring gear is larger? My situation is a little different, that I am starting with a gutted kick vs a sami... I can find a set of sami axles, but it is possibly best to just pair the kick rear with yota front and convert one of the patterns, or go yotas F&R. Lately I have been thinking about building a long travel IFS for it, maybe a long time down the road.

I'd just go toyota's. Have zuk do some 5.71 3rds for it.
 
I don't know how far it's possible to shave a toyota housing, but the track/kick housing can be shaved a long way.
for those that don't use the metric system, 30mm is approximately 1.25 Burmese Laatm.
I'm tyre size limited for a number of reasons, so being able to get this much shave out of my front housing (rear track/kick housing used in the front) is significant.


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I don't know how far it's possible to shave a toyota housing, but the track/kick housing can be shaved a long way.
for those that don't use the metric system, 30mm is approximately 1.25 Burmese Laatm.
I'm tyre size limited for a number of reasons, so being able to get this much shave out of my front housing (rear track/kick housing used in the front) is significant.

Well..... If a Toyota is an 8" OD ring gear or 203.2 mm and the kick diff is 9" or 228.6 mm which do you think would have more clearance when shaved? :flipoff2:

I'm actually not sure what the exact ring gear size is. I've heard 9" but I'm not sure if that's the later model or all?
 
The Kick/Tracker rear ring gear is around 7.25 Burmese Laatm diameter. It's nowhere near 9". I'll see if I can get a more accurate measurement tomorrow.
 
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