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"built" zuk axles?

JR4X said:
Superduty unit bearings don’t need the nut and 99 - 04 are 30 spline. They can be made 5 on 5 1/5 or 6 on 5 1/2 bolt circle as well. Some places sell them pre machined for your new bolt pattern. Super common UB flange that several companies sell as well in just about any tube diameter. Currie, Spidertrax, I think RuffStuff sells them.

I ran aftermarket SD 35 spline UB’s f/r on a samurai buggy so that it took the same UB’s on all 4 corners.
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Honestly, it's almost foolish to not just go that route if using ubsd. What's the wieght difference between an 99-04 ub and a jk? Can't be much.

For the zuks, you could even just redrill some stock take offs and run the 30 spline hubs.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Honestly, it's almost foolish to not just go that route if using ubsd. What's the wieght difference between an 99-04 ub and a jk? Can't be much.

For the zuks, you could even just redrill some stock take offs and run the 30 spline hubs.
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I had thought about that first, as well. In my mind I was thinking it's way overkil and to save weight. But itd likely only be 20-30lb per axle, if that.
 
IMG_20211206_112437.jpg


My buddy sent me this Pic of his buddies rig, supposed to be a 1.6, SxS take off coilovers, 35 roxxilla stickies and just chromo Sami axles. He said he beats the shit out of it and it holds up well.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
IMG_20211206_112437.jpg


My buddy sent me this Pic of his buddies rig, supposed to be a 1.6, SxS take off coilovers, 35 roxxilla stickies and just chromo Sami axles. He said he beats the shit out of it and it holds up well.
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I bet that thing is fun AF!
 
yea, that's my style rig.
 
I broke sami rear axles at will with 31 non stickies. No idea how this can hold up if he beats it.

Looks fun though.
 
Bebop said:
I broke sami rear axles at will with 31 non stickies. No idea how this can hold up if he beats it.

Looks fun though.
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It's 2nd hand info, so who knows. I've never seen the rig or met the guy.

He said it's chromo axles, but depending on who you talk to, they aren't much of an upgrade......

I was surprised at what my rear axle took with 32s and some bouncing on dry rock.

I wonder if the lower wieght of the SxS tires vs heavy swampers is key.
 
I have had bad luck with the silverback chromo rear axles, but that was a long time ago.
I heard they're supposed to be better now.

I had 31x10.5r15 BFG KM2 and was wheeling on dry rock mostly. Depending on how I was feathering / dumping the clutch, I could break the rear shafts almost at will, provided that they had some weight on them (nose pointing up).
 
I ran 32" retreads on stock axles, 6.5s and a minispool. I beat the absolute piss out of it. It never saw anything below 5k rpm. I redlined that thing everywhere. never broke a thing. actually, that was my best year of wheeling. I was wheeling twice a week, smashing the shit out of my rig and it never cared.

it wasn't until I went stupid with toys, full hydro, and all that other garbage the entire thing went to shit.
 
Tech Tim helped me get some info on larger shafts for a sidekick rear hybrid.

The Sidekick gears use the thinner J set gears, so the RD104 (Dana 30) stuff will not fit. BUT, RD224 (Nissan M205) has 30 splined Dana shafts in a low profile RD204/209 sized side gear.

Gear set part number is #728J111.



You will need to take a skim out of the bearing journal ID (0.3mm) or....I would be very tempted, to just kiss the outside of the shafts. Bring them from 33.3mm down to about 32.9mm. 0.2mm radially won't effect shaft strength (especially with a 30 splined shaft).
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YotaAtieToo said:
Tech Tim helped me get some info on larger shafts for a sidekick rear hybrid.

The Sidekick gears use the thinner J set gears, so the RD104 (Dana 30) stuff will not fit. BUT, RD224 (Nissan M205) has 30 splined Dana shafts in a low profile RD204/209 sized side gear.

Gear set part number is #728J111.

You will need to take a skim out of the bearing journal ID (0.3mm) or....I would be very tempted, to just kiss the outside of the shafts. Bring them from 33.3mm down to about 32.9mm. 0.2mm radially won't effect shaft strength (especially with a 30 splined shaft).
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To be clear, that would be for up-splining Sidekick/Tracker ARB Air Lockers.
 
Do you have price on that gearset part #?

To buy a gearset and then have to carry out more machining is a pretty expensive option, if my pricing on ARB gear sets is accurate.
 
You could get the existing gear set EDM'd or broached if you find a company to do it.
 
Gwagensteve said:
Do you have price on that gearset part #?

To buy a gearset and then have to carry out more machining is a pretty expensive option, if my pricing on ARB gear sets is accurate.
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Which route did you go to get Toyota 30 spline again?

Fwiw, I got a quote to replace some Toyota 7.5" side and spider gears, around $425, so no horrible, but on a zuk budget, not nothing.

I did find that you can pretty much assemble an arb part by part for about the same price as the unit it's self. So that's an option vs buying a whole diff with $425 worth of gears I have no use for......



My thought is to try and build my own hybrid rear, I'd accomplish by hopefully machining.... (OK grinding :laughing:) some D44 or whatever side gears and welding them in spidr style. But I also don't want to be stuck without other options besides a spool.
 
Bebop said:
You could get the existing gear set EDM'd or broached if you find a company to do it.
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I remember that being common way back when people wanted 35 spline outters, but didn't want glass warn hubs. Edm the spicers.

I used to have a tiny Edm shop like a mile from my old house, no idea up here.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Which route did you go to get Toyota 30 spline again?

Fwiw, I got a quote to replace some Toyota 7.5" side and spider gears, around $425, so no horrible, but on a zuk budget, not nothing.

I did find that you can pretty much assemble an arb part by part for about the same price as the unit it's self. So that's an option vs buying a whole diff with $425 worth of gears I have no use for......



My thought is to try and build my own hybrid rear, I'd accomplish by hopefully machining.... (OK grinding :laughing:) some D44 or whatever side gears and welding them in spidr style. But I also don't want to be stuck without other options besides a spool.
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I had my existing tracker side gears broached to Toyota 30 spline, which cost me AU$400. I'd seen prices on ARB gear sets as high as US$520 or so, which is ~AU$720
 
Broaching is only cost effective in bulk, driven by the broach tooling cost. EDM is the most rational choice. Call machine shops and ask. Some are busy with big customers, but you may find somebody who doesn't have an issue setting up your job and charging for machine time. Lots of EDM machines sitting unused in manufacturing, even in small shops. If you can mail it next door, you can mail it to China or India and get it done reaaal cheap.
 
JR4X said:
Are Nissan 30 spline the same pressure angle as as Dana 30?
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If you are referring to the Nissan gear sets above (#728J111), they are from a specialty Air Locker that are built with 30 spline Dane spline cut in them.
 
One thing that's really driving me nuts right now is steering angle. I have the factory felt bolts swapped for counter sunk allens, which helped a lot. It still doesn't seem to turn as tight as my 96 4runner, despite a 20" shorter wb.

Anyone think the spool rear is drastically effecting it? I know it will have some effect, but I wonder how much. A lunchbox rear would probably help at slow speeds.
 
Sammie axles just don't have much steering angle no matter what. Even fully stock their turn radius is lackluster at best. The spool definitely doesn't help in medium to high traction situations.

I switched from welded to a lunchbox locker in the rear and noticed an improvement in steering on and off the trail. But then it had the popping sounds and quirky on/off throttle locking, it did survive 35in swampers and poor treatment.
 
cchambers13 said:
Sammie axles just don't have much steering angle no matter what. Even fully stock their turn radius is lackluster at best. The spool definitely doesn't help in medium to high traction situations.

I switched from welded to a lunchbox locker in the rear and noticed an improvement in steering on and off the trail. But then it had the popping sounds and quirky on/off throttle locking, it did survive 35in swampers and poor treatment.
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It's tempting to go Selectable in the rear when/if I do the hybrid rear. Hard to justify though as an arb and compressor probably cost as almost as much as I have into the whole thing :laughing:
 
Tech Tim said:
Selectables are another tool in your driving toolbox.
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I agree. I've had 3 rears and one front. I love unlocking the rear to pivot around stuff or to keep the rear end from sliding down a side hill in snow.

Just not sure if I can justify it for this rig. At least with zuk axles.
 
The Samurai front axle has terrible steering angles and they don't change the Ackerman between long and short wheelbase. Increased rim offset hurts turning circle as well. My walkers were 8.5" with 3.75" BS and it turned ok, now I've gone to a ~6.5" but with about 2" of BS my turning circle sucks - it's noticeably worse. I swapped to an airlocker rear at the same time and whilst it's helped (and I can no longer feel the back of the car pushing) the rims are negating any gain from the selectable rear. I have sort of set my car up for cutting brakes but I haven't pulled the trigger on them yet. My Discovery shares the same wheelbase as my Suzuki and despite having a much wider track it turns much tighter.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
One thing that's really driving me nuts right now is steering angle. I have the factory felt bolts swapped for counter sunk allens, which helped a lot. It still doesn't seem to turn as tight as my 96 4runner, despite a 20" shorter wb.

Anyone think the spool rear is drastically effecting it? I know it will have some effect, but I wonder how much. A lunchbox rear would probably help at slow speeds.
Click to expand...

The spool is definitely affecting it, way more than you think.

I drove my Geo for almost two years before spooling the rear. After the spool I struggle to navigate tight trails like I used to, and on road turning is a joke.

These light vehicles and short wheel bases just get pushed forward instead of actually turning and that’s what is ruining the radius.
 
FleshEater said:
The spool is definitely affecting it, way more than you think.

I drove my Geo for almost two years before spooling the rear. After the spool I struggle to navigate tight trails like I used to, and on road turning is a joke.

These light vehicles and short wheel bases just get pushed forward instead of actually turning and that’s what is ruining the radius.
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I'm sure wieght bias doesn't help. I'd think your hard top has more wieght to the rear than my open Sami, but who knows.

Either way, I agree. It's very tempting to go arb when I regear, but I just don't see it in the cards for this rig. A lunchbox may be a good middle ground. They seem to unlock decent at slow speeds.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I'm sure wieght bias doesn't help. I'd think your hard top has more wieght to the rear than my open Sami, but who knows.

Either way, I agree. It's very tempting to go arb when I regear, but I just don't see it in the cards for this rig. A lunchbox may be a good middle ground. They seem to unlock decent at slow speeds.
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That much cash is definitely hard to justify.

I had a lunchbox in a WJ once. It was much better than a spool.
 
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