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"built" zuk axles?

^^^^ Exactly. I have a knock off detroit in my jeep (sorry) and it works awesome but would drive me crazy if it was a dd.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
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My buddy sent me this Pic of his buddies rig, supposed to be a 1.6, SxS take off coilovers, 35 roxxilla stickies and just chromo Sami axles. He said he beats the shit out of it and it holds up well.
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I know it's a long shot, but any possibility of getting more info on this rig? Wheel choice, wheelbase, etc? I'm attempting something similar.
 
I'm ready to put the 4.88s in my axles. I'm thinking about just buying the zor hybrid rear axle to make it easy. Anyone have anything to say about them? I've heard mixed reviews on zor.....

Also curious about more info on chromo rears. Low range lists 2 different chromo rears on thier site and tt lists some with no brand mentioned as well.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I'm ready to put the 4.88s in my axles. I'm thinking about just buying the zor hybrid rear axle to make it easy. Anyone have anything to say about them? I've heard mixed reviews on zor.....

Also curious about more info on chromo rears. Low range lists 2 different chromo rears on thier site and tt lists some with no brand mentioned as well.
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Are 5.13’s from a Tracker too low?
 
Been running the Gorilla shafts in the rear of my Samurai with the 35s a couple years now, granted not as often as I’d like. I have not broken one yet.

I was breaking the stock rear shafts almost every outing on 32s.

Not sure if I’m just more conscientious now and scared to push the 35s or if they’re stronger.

I got them during a promo, it was only $100 more or something silly to get them with the front chromo shafts. Seemed it was worth the gamble.

Not sure about the ZOR rear. I built my own hybrid, it’s not nice or straight but it was free.
 
FleshEater said:
Are 5.13’s from a Tracker too low?
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Possibly, with the 1.7 high range, even the 4.88s will be pretty low. Plus I have the 4.88s. 5.12s were not common in the 2nd gens.

Covecrawler said:
Been running the Gorilla shafts in the rear of my Samurai with the 35s a couple years now, granted not as often as I’d like. I have not broken one yet.

I was breaking the stock rear shafts almost every outing on 32s.

Not sure if I’m just more conscientious now and scared to push the 35s or if they’re stronger.

I got them during a promo, it was only $100 more or something silly to get them with the front chromo shafts. Seemed it was worth the gamble.

Not sure about the ZOR rear. I built my own hybrid, it’s not nice or straight but it was free.
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Good to know. I don't think gorilla is around anymore though. I wonder which ones are best? Or are they all probably the same :laughing:
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Possibly, with the 1.7 high range, even the 4.88s will be pretty low. Plus I have the 4.88s. 5.12s were not common in the 2nd gens.



Good to know. I don't think gorilla is around anymore though. I wonder which ones are best? Or are they all probably the same :laughing:
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I have 4.65 gears laying around from Trackers if you want those. Not 4.88, but they’re free. :smokin:
 
FleshEater said:
I have 4.65 gears laying around from Trackers if you want those. Not 4.88, but they’re free. :smokin:
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I currently have a set of 4.88s and just a rear 4.62s, I thought about grabbing a 4.62 front since they're more common, so I'll think about it, thank you.

Although they're close enough, it probably won't matter much
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I currently have a set of 4.88s and just a rear 4.62s, I thought about grabbing a 4.62 front since they're more common, so I'll think about it, thank you.

Although they're close enough, it probably won't matter much
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Mine might have been 4.62. I ran the calculator on them once and tossed them on the shelf. I’ll confirm tonight.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Ya, I don't know, I'm sure it's the same one. 99% of the 1st gens were 4.6x or 5.1x :laughing:
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Just checked. I was wrong. 4.30 on the Tracker and 3.73 from the Samurai.

I still have a 95’ down on the property with a front housing. It could be what you need. Not sure. But if you’re leaning 4.88 I won’t worry about it.
 
FleshEater said:
Just checked. I was wrong. 4.30 on the Tracker and 3.73 from the Samurai.

I still have a 95’ down on the property with a front housing. It could be what you need. Not sure. But if you’re leaning 4.88 I won’t worry about it.
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Appreciate it, for now, I'll stick with 4.88s
 
Trail tough is building my rear housing now. I skipped on the chromo shafts since i couldn't justify $1000 after bearings, and whatever else into a damn zuk axle :laughing:

So $400+ shipping to be able to run free 4.88s and gain a little strength. Still plan to maybe collect parts to build stronger axles and save these for an ultra light buggy.
 
So far so good on the Gorilla tough rear shafts I have in my tracker hybrid.

I’d like to stuff a 31 spline mini spool in a tracker diff and run 9” shafts but have not found the time.

I broke many stock rear shafts on 32s, and messed up the diff every time.

$1000 for rear shafts seems like a lot, I would have skipped that upgrade too.
 
Covecrawler said:
So far so good on the Gorilla tough rear shafts I have in my tracker hybrid.

I’d like to stuff a 31 spline mini spool in a tracker diff and run 9” shafts but have not found the time.

I broke many stock rear shafts on 32s, and messed up the diff every time.

$1000 for rear shafts seems like a lot, I would have skipped that upgrade too.
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$1000 was the quote to ad rear shafts and wheel bearings to the housing order
 
Got my front diff back. Guy said he couldn't use the aluminum carrier shim deal thays supplied in the track kick gear kits.

Wonder if the 2nd gen gears are different than the 1st gens? Or what he wrong?
 
Pics?

Maybe he didn’t unbolt the two halves to slip in on?

Are we talking about the “can” that holds the cross pins in?

Or the shim that goes between the side adjuster and the carrier bearing?
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Got my front diff back. Guy said he couldn't use the aluminum carrier shim deal thays supplied in the track kick gear kits.

Wonder if the 2nd gen gears are different than the 1st gens? Or what he wrong?
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They are the same gears. I'm running 4.88s in the stock sami front housing.

x2 on he probably didnt unbolt the carrier.
 
Covecrawler said:
Pics?

Maybe he didn’t unbolt the two halves to slip in on?

Are we talking about the “can” that holds the cross pins in?

Or the shim that goes between the side adjuster and the carrier bearing?
Click to expand...

The "can"

He said it would hit the pinion?

bad zuki said:
They are the same gears. I'm running 4.88s in the stock sami front housing.

x2 on he probably didnt unbolt the carrier.
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Did you need to use the can thing?

I was told it was to keep the pins from coming out, but looking at it, they can't go anywhere.

Thought I took pics.....
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Did you need to use the can thing?
I was told it was to keep the pins from coming out, but looking at it, they can't go anywhere.
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I don't use them, I just tack weld the pins. The smaller ones can back out enough to break stuff.

I wonder if he set the pinion too deep and it was rubbing the aluminum.
 
I’ve had them hit the pinion before as well. Aluminum shaving make good friction modifier.

I’ve also had the tack welds break due to the dissimilar metals/slop in the pins.
 
bad zuki said:
I don't use them, I just tack weld the pins. The smaller ones can back out enough to break stuff.

I wonder if he set the pinion too deep and it was rubbing the aluminum.
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It looks like they can maybe move 0.050? Before it hits the step on the ring gear.

It may be deep, the pinion is hard to turn, which I've never had before. He claimed it will break in?

Covecrawler said:
I’ve had them hit the pinion before as well. Aluminum shaving make good friction modifier.

I’ve also had the tack welds break due to the dissimilar metals/slop in the pins.
Click to expand...

What's your thoughts on running without either?
 
YotaAtieToo said:
It looks like they can maybe move 0.050? Before it hits the step on the ring gear.

It may be deep, the pinion is hard to turn, which I've never had before. He claimed it will break in?



What's your thoughts on running without either?
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Something doesn’t sound right. I set up thirds all the time and from what you’re describing I wouldn’t run it expecting to forget about once it’s installed. I think you need to get a second opinion on it if you aren’t in the position to check everything yourself
 
YotaAtieToo said:
It looks like they can maybe move 0.050? Before it hits the step on the ring gear.

It may be deep, the pinion is hard to turn, which I've never had before. He claimed it will break in?



What's your thoughts on running without either?
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Does it have pattern marks on it to show us?
 
I'll get some pics when I get home.

One downside of moving to a new area is not knowing who all to go to or avoid for stuff like this.
 
So I guess I need to just learn diff set up, just been one of those things I'd rather pay a guy who's done 1000s a few hundred so I can work on other shit. Took a gamble with this guy off a buddies recommendation and think I wasted $160:homer:

Doesn't even look like he really checked the pattern?

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The backlash "feels" good to me. :laughing:

Resistance is definitely in the pinion. Feels like WAY more than a new seal friction. Especially since it's greased.

No idea if you can tell in the pics, but there is a bit of movement in the pins, probably close to the 0.050 I mentioned earlier.

These are with the pin pushed over till it hit on the other side.

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