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bought a house from 1910

[486] said:
vent acting as a drain is not going to be vented, it'll make the drains work shitty warning of the plugged up drain line
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So your venting the top line. That’s pretty much how a normal system works. My only concern would be if your riser becomes blocked how do you get the snake to make that turn.

I’m honestly interested to see how this works out for you I never seen anything like this even in demonstration.
 
Pocahontas said:
So your venting the top line. That’s pretty much how a normal system works. My only concern would be if your riser becomes blocked how do you get the snake to make that turn.

I’m honestly interested to see how this works out for you I never seen anything like this even in demonstration.
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I've been wondering about that, figuring I'll get a chink endoscope camera with a real long cable and attach it to a bent snake
then I can directional-drill pick-a-path through the maze of pipes

or maybe just slap some threaded cleanouts in the verticals where they're in the basement, but that makes it possible to have leaks and shit, dunno

probably ain't ever seen it because I'm just stupid enough to not know what will never work, so I end up trying things that sometimes work out pretty well
 
decided that fuck it screw conveyor isn't going to do a whole floor, called up and paid the big bucks for the conveyor truck, 1600 buckarooniedoonies for 5yd

got the water reducer plasticizer, fiber, "VMA" whatever that is, and 5000 psi
no accelerator this time

poured about half of it real stiff, then bitched out and had the guy add water because I was absolutely dying
made the same mistake as last time, hump in the middle and low edges
guy wouldn't let me swap out the hose at the end of the boot for a shorter one I had, so had to rake it around from where it'd fall rather than pointing the hose around, shoulda told him to fuck right off from the outset, but I'm a fucking wiener that just folds right over to avoid conflict

20230831_094014.jpeg

copper to PVC transition is just a piece of sch40 pvc bored out to a press fit to the copper, sanded the copper with 80 grit, stuck a coupling on the pvc to give some extra hoop strength and pressed it together with glue

20230831_155443.jpeg

ended up sloping the whole bathroom to the shower drain, got a good amount of drop to the floor though so maybe the curbless thing will work out, who knows
gonna be a wall across the floor where the slope changes, so didn't really put much effort into trowelling off that area
20230831_164851.jpeg

didn't run the power trowel, figured it bouncing on the uneven would possibly fuck up the formwork underneath, the laundry drain was sticking up a tiny bit so it might catch on it, and just generally not wanting to fuck with it when it came time

20230831_155503.jpeg

got out there with the hand trowel twice, once way too early, to try and flatten out the bigger humps, and once a bit too late, where at the very tail end of finishing up I was getting the top surface smearing rather than smoothing
shoulda hit the bathroom area one more time but the skin was already falling off my hands so it wasn't too hard to tell myself I'd fix it with abrasives later
 
Hand mag float and then two times with a steel pool trowel.
 
cj3a said:
Hand mag float and then two times with a steel pool trowel.
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went more like 'screed it off with a 2x4, smooth it out a li'l with the fresno because I don't have a bullfloat, then trowel it a bit'

I suppose I shoulda tried using the mag when I was trowelling it while it was way too wet, but I didn't think of it at the time
oh right the thought that went through my mind was that I could use the sharp edge of the trowel to more easily pick up material from the perimeter where the wall will be, to fill in holes out in the middle

probably entirely wrong way of looking at it, but that's past mistakes for you
 
You need to keep an eye out on cl for a bull float. Need that to get the cream to rise up when it’s wet. Makes the troweling go a lot better. Other than that good job for a one person show.
 
lol oh right forgot to mention, pictures were before any trowelling beyond some mushing about with the fresno as I was screeding
it looks a lot better now, just forgot to take 'after' pictures

I've seen guys using mag floats made outta wood, saying it's for the same reason as the magnesium, that it pulls up more of the cream than steel does
maybe I oughta take the swivel-tilty head off the fresno and stick it onto a 2x6 or something
 
With the bull float the concrete will be too wet to stand on. When you hand mag the knee boards will slightly sink in. At the steel towel the knee boards will not sink
 
I have only used the wood towels for finishing a plaster block wall. I am looking for a texture finish at that point
 
cj3a said:
With the bull float the concrete will be too wet to stand on. When you hand mag the knee boards will slightly sink in. At the steel towel the knee boards will not sink
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okay, my bits of foam in the picture there were sinking in like 1/2" or so when I trowelled it the first time, then on the second go they weren't sinking at all
 
It looks like you can make a bridge to work off. I think I would have bought a two wheel wheelbarrow before the conveyor truck. Planked off the bridge and worked back.
 
[486] said:
lol oh right forgot to mention, pictures were before any trowelling beyond some mushing about with the fresno as I was screeding
it looks a lot better now, just forgot to take 'after' pictures

I've seen guys using mag floats made outta wood, saying it's for the same reason as the magnesium, that it pulls up more of the cream than steel does
maybe I oughta take the swivel-tilty head off the fresno and stick it onto a 2x6 or something
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The old timer concrete guy friend of ours uses a wood mag exclusively for the work when a bull float is too big.
 
[486] said:
decided that fuck it screw conveyor isn't going to do a whole floor, called up and paid the big bucks for the conveyor truck, 1600 buckarooniedoonies for 5yd

got the water reducer plasticizer, fiber, "VMA" whatever that is, and 5000 psi
no accelerator this time

poured about half of it real stiff, then bitched out and had the guy add water because I was absolutely dying
made the same mistake as last time, hump in the middle and low edges
guy wouldn't let me swap out the hose at the end of the boot for a shorter one I had, so had to rake it around from where it'd fall rather than pointing the hose around, shoulda told him to fuck right off from the outset, but I'm a fucking wiener that just folds right over to avoid conflict

20230831_094014.jpeg

copper to PVC transition is just a piece of sch40 pvc bored out to a press fit to the copper, sanded the copper with 80 grit, stuck a coupling on the pvc to give some extra hoop strength and pressed it together with glue
Click to expand...
Have you done this before? It kinda' scares me, especially with no way to access it later. You know they make PVC transition fittings right?
 
Roc Doc said:
Have you done this before? It kinda' scares me, especially with no way to access it later. You know they make PVC transition fittings right?
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nope, I saw the compression fittings that are out there for pvc to copper but I trust a rubber o-ring less than I trust a .005"/" press fit

figure if it leaks it'll be a downer, but I could probably pressure impregnate the concrete around it with epoxy or waterglass or something
 
[486] said:
nope, I saw the compression fittings that are out there for pvc to copper but I trust a rubber o-ring less than I trust a .005"/" press fit

figure if it leaks it'll be a downer, but I could probably pressure impregnate the concrete around it with epoxy or waterglass or something
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Why copper and not just do the whole thing in pvc and set the drain flange in the concrete like you would a typical mud pan?
 
Pocahontas said:
Why copper and not just do the whole thing in pvc and set the drain flange in the concrete like you would a typical mud pan?
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copper was thinner
arched underside means floor is only 4" thick where drain is, drain with grate was about 2.5" thick, I set it 0.5" up on a mortar bed to ensure a bit of encapsulation in the floor so I got about 1" of fall toward the drain
the rebar going atop the drain does get within about 1/2" of the surface even with the pipe dented in a li'l bit so I'll need to seal the concrete with some clear epoxy or something

To run PVC I'd have had to go with a 1.5" tub/sink drain instead of a 2" shower drain which mighta been okay but I'd 100% want a curb with an undersized drain
where I'm hoping I can get away without if I'm running the big momma


ETA: going thicker overall on the floor fucks up the staircase to the basement which I'd already laid out right on the edge of acceptability with 8" rise on the stair treads
 
oh right, for the numbers, the 5000 psi was $180/yd, all the rest of the cost was conveyor truck (475) admixtures and fuel charges
 
i was taught that the mag and wood floats don't seal the surface like a steel trowel or Fresno. so we never went to the steel till it was about done.
 
When are you pouring the other parts? It’s going to get cold soon.
 
cj3a said:
When are you pouring the other parts? It’s going to get cold soon.
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probably next year, kinda like how the half of the basement floor that's in there was placed at the end of last year

freeze/thaw cycles are probably fucking me and it's all cracking apart or whatever but... eh, ain't nothing I can do about that other than dumping a bunch of heat in there or paying people to do it for me

Might yet do the bottom half of the stairs this year, but might not, gotta finish up the screw conveyor to get materials loaded down there now, since I kinda blocked off the easy skid steer access.
 
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