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bought a house from 1910

You can get sweeping bends in sch80 at least. Threw out boxes of them when I was in highschool because boss said to and I didn't ask questions.

They might have been electrical in nature but they were the dark gray and not the light gray and they were in the same assortment of stuff as the water supply stuff and not in the electrical closet so....
 
[486] said:
arright cool, that kinda surprised me with the li'l 2" venting a toilet and everything else, that it works okay even being a wet vent is pretty heartening

stainless shower pan end up real slippery?
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Plenty of vent. I guess if I drained the tub while showering and flushing the toilet with the sink running it might be a bit slower, but alot of air can flow through a 2" pipe. Inspector like the set up. I got a quote to have the waste lines roughed and plumbers wanted 8k back then and another hole in the floor, saying it couldn't be done. Little code book and best practices reading and it was done in a weekend.

I'll probably dump another sink into that vent if I put a little sink up in the attic area.

Pans been fine, not more slick than a regular tub. If you pour soap all over the pan yea, you can bust your ass. It's a scotch brite finish so not super polished.
 
Dethmachinefab said:
When I was doing my stainless shower pan I turned a stainless pipe to have o ring grooves that fit inside the 2" pvc. Works real well. I'd think you can do similar welded into the side of a custom trench drain or something, or just fab up the thing entirely and weld in some thread parts where you have clearance.
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What did you do to keep the stainless shower pan from being crazy slick? Id love a stainless shower pan

Edit: Now i finish the thread and realize you answered it in the post above mine:homer::laughing:
 
arse_sidewards said:
You can get sweeping bends in sch80 at least. Threw out boxes of them when I was in highschool because boss said to and I didn't ask questions.

They might have been electrical in nature but they were the dark gray and not the light gray and they were in the same assortment of stuff as the water supply stuff and not in the electrical closet so....
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Just stop. You're just throwing shit against the wall. Yes there are sweeps in Sch product, but they are not DWV which as you might surmise are for use in drain applications.
 
Pt_Ranger_v8 said:
How thick are your interior walls?

I wouldn't be worried about a 3" vent stack in a 6" walls.
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decided on 8" exterior walls above the water line
interior might be 6" because I've got snap ties of that size, but 4" would be much more sensible

I think I've got the vent figured out goodly enough to work without any stack inside the house's footprint, but we'll see if it works in a year or two when I can poop in it.
 
Dethmachinefab said:
Come by and we can bend one up if you ever need.
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careful, i might take you up on that:smokin:. you're not far from my parents. Thanks for the offer, thankfully not doing another shower anytime soon. at least in this house...


I could see wanting the stack in the exterior wall, the less shit cluttering the interior spaces/walls/etc the better IMO. Parents' house is super limited in what they could re-structure layout wise b/c the main stack goes right down the center of the house, stair placement limits things, etc.
 
budget76 said:
I could see wanting the stack in the exterior wall, the less shit cluttering the interior spaces/walls/etc the better IMO. Parents' house is super limited in what they could re-structure layout wise b/c the main stack goes right down the center of the house, stair placement limits things, etc.
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this one is going clear out in the yard so I don't have a hole in the roof, it'll be majestic

if it works
 
Say, my shitter tank has multiple 6" inspection pipes sticking up, one of which is directly above the inlet pipe
any reason these gotta have sealed caps on them, or can I put a vent cap on one of them (only one of the four, I know airflow going through is not what you want at all)
 
Pocahontas said:
The vent or stack? I would be worried about freezing if you are putting the stack outside the house.
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I was just figuring on making a separate dry vent loop that instead of going up to the roof, it ties in to the oversized 4" drain line down where it is all at the 1/4" per ft slope, where it'll have plenty of airspace in the top half of the pipe

then sticking a stub up off that with a vent cap in the yard
or if I can do the venting 20' down the line directly at the tank, that's good too
 
You want venting at furthest drain and the stack, stack doesn’t have to be perfectly straight but I would be concerned about 20 feet, You can also wet vent depending on situation and you don’t need a full 4 inch vent/stack on the stack when all you have is a single bath and kitchen sink. So far I haven’t seen anything that would cause concern if I’m understanding what all you’re doing. You can also do auto vents if you have a sink far from the main stack.

Not totally following your question about septic vent, your septic should have a vent you don’t want it completely sealed up tight.
 
Pocahontas said:
Not totally following your question about septic vent, your septic should have a vent you don’t want it completely sealed up tight.
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cool that's what I need

I've got a really mickey mouse setup all figured out for venting
it might not do anything good, but I'm gonna try it and see

I've got 24" or thereabouts of vertical drop in the 4" toilet line, I'm waffling between 45 deg or vertical, I want it to carry the least amount of air along with the waste

I figure the 45deg might pump less air being that the poopoo will be on one side of the pipe rather than falling vertically, but when it hits the 45 at the bottom it might cause a bunch more suction behind it than it would have falling vertically
 
[486] said:
I've got a really mickey mouse setup all figured out for venting
it might not do anything good, but I'm gonna try it and see
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An how is that different from anything else you have done on that house?:lmao:

Im goona guess that whatever you come up with. Is goona be just janky enough to match everything else. But its goona work:flipoff2:
 
Steve300xcw said:
Im goona guess that whatever you come up with. Is goona be just janky enough to match everything else. But its goona work:flipoff2:
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When you're buying material at a discount and your labor is free other than time there's all sorts of shit you can do that works great but isn't materially or labor efficient.

He'll probably wind up with one of those solutions, just like the concrete stairs and arch. :laughing:
 
[486] said:
cool that's what I need

I've got a really mickey mouse setup all figured out for venting
it might not do anything good, but I'm gonna try it and see
Click to expand...
If you draw a diagram or take pictures I’ll tell you if you need to add vents anywhere. Also keep in mind the bigger the vent the better
[486] said:
I've got 24" or thereabouts of vertical drop in the 4" toilet line, I'm waffling between 45 deg or vertical, I want it to carry the least amount of air along with the waste

I figure the 45deg might pump less air being that the poopoo will be on one side of the pipe rather than falling vertically, but when it hits the 45 at the bottom it might cause a bunch more suction behind it than it would have falling vertically
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It will all depend on where the vent is or if you are wet venting. Usually you will double up 45s for toilet or do a long 90 but it’s usually one of those things just figuring out what will work for your install.
 
the plumbing is kinda 3-dimensional in a way that is hard to draw, being all compactified into place
I'll stick the vent stuff together today and take a picture

it's pretty much like one of those kitchen island vents where instead of the vent line going up it goes back down to tie in with plumbing below
but the whole house, and eventually venting through the basement wall in the 4" waste line which is entirely excessive for a house with only one toilet (I was expecting to use 3" like every house I've seen the plumbing on, but this idea came to me when I noticed the septic line is 4" out in the yard)
 
potential resource for your consideration here- Lots of interesting concrete wall construction plumbing theory discussed in these vids where he’s making an effort to have minimal wall/ roof penetrations and vent Stacy efficiency .( I watch/ listen at 1.5x speed because the videos are lengthy and often slow moving at times.)





 
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Oh neat watched a few of his videos on that project a while ago, hadn't seen any of the rough in stuff
I'll have to watch them later

I've just been doing my plumbing in typical 'how2basic' style
you know, curled in the corner, screaming, crying and rolling in smashed eggs
 
[486] said:
Oh neat watched a few of his videos on that project a while ago, hadn't seen any of the rough in stuff
I'll have to watch them later

I've just been doing my plumbing in typical 'how2basic' style
you know, curled in the corner, screaming, crying and rolling in smashed eggs
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Yeah im a barely proficient plumber myself so I can relate; I gotta do a lot of thinking head scratching, measure once swear and cut twice to get stuff done most of the time.

I learned some stuff about vent stack theory/ code from those vids.
 
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cut some "rebar" from the pile of heavy 7-strand guardrail cable I bought, uncoiling shit is a problem, especially when it is stiff as fuck and whippy as all hell and sharp on the end because an abrasive disc is all that'll cut it
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laid out some tubing, then later on decided it all needed to be rearranged because I'm an idort
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far right one is the shower
then big one is terlit
then there's a branch off for the wash machine, a washtub, and the BR sink will tie into it (through the wall) I guess too
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far left one is kitchen sink, the two tees will continue all the way to two cleanout plugs at the far end of the foundation. Maybe. Realizing just now that that will be underneath a few feet of dirt. Shit. Well may as well do it anyways. They'll be there long forgotten when the house is torn down in 50 years because the foundation buckled or some dumb shit.
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So, the top line is the vent, it is so low to the ground because I figure it'll act as a secondary drain line if the main drain gets plugged anywhere, when it becomes a drain instead of a vent I figure it'll warn me of the fact by the drains and traps gurgling and such


The 4" toilet line will be about 24" below the ceiling in the basement, with those two pipes tied into it. The 4" line going out to the yard carrying the waste will be the vent, since it will never be flowing anywhere near full capacity it'll always have some air space up top. If the shit tank pump dies and the tank starts filling above normal capacity I should have a couple very gurgly flushes before anything backs up into the house.


The main question I've got is in the toilet plumbing from the flange to those 4-2-4 tees that are 24" or thereabouts below the flange
I'm only concerned about pumping air along with the waste water
ya'll think a 45 at the flange and a 45 at the tees will pump less air than just a vertical fall and a 90 at the bottom?
 
Base on what my friend did when we added radiant to my den. You look a little light on the tubing.
 
cj3a said:
Base on what my friend did when we added radiant to my den. You look a little light on the tubing.
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yeah it's at 8" spacing in the bathroom and 10ish in the kitchen
the kitchen side is gonna get rearranged a bit to exclude the area under the cabinets stove refrigerator and washer/dryer
keep in mind it'll have 6" of foamboard on the outside, and it'll have forced air besides
I'm mostly doing the tubing because I don't like cold floors in the winter

If it does really look light on the tubing I might run the bathroom in a separate loop, floor and walls,
but I dunno
somewhere or another says 50 btu per square foot is about what I could expect, which is 8450 btus, and I'll have four similarly sized loops, one is already in the basement, this one and then the two on the other side of the house, so figure about 36k btus worth of heat from the floors alone
yeah that does seem a little sparse
Been running 230ft or thereabouts loops of 1/2", the boiler I still haven't pressure tested is about 100-200k btu depending on nozzle size


I'm going to have to do more research
I'd kinda just been running on autopilot
 
looking all over and I think I'm gonna keep it at the 4 loops of 230' in the four slabs, then run a water-air radiator in the furnace plenum for the make-up

because the boiler will be waste oil fired, and the forced air furnace will be propane
forced air mostly to keep some air movement in there with how sealed up it'll end up being, and to get the marvel that is central A/C

Bathroom might get a short loop in the walls, might not, I do want it to be hotter than the rest of the house though
 
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