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bought a house from 1910

So.
I just realized that in order to have enough headroom in the stairs downstairs I can't have a 5' landing on the ground floor, it has to be at maximum 3'6" or thereabouts.
Meaning, I could probably fit a bathroom door in there, a 36" door with frame would probably fit in the 42" between the outside wall and the first stair to the attic

but I dunno
Shit's a lot easier when you don't gotta think about it as you're building. Formwork that should have taken me a week or less has taken me like 2 months so far.
 
arse_sidewards said:
You'll save a lot of time/effort and money if you waste a few weeks thinking up highly specific plans and then stick to them.
Click to expand...
Yep, I could have easily knocked a year off my 3 year house build if I wasnt winging it as I went. Actuall plans would have been great. I never realized how much time id daydream about stupid stuff like light and outlet locations.
 
2big bronco said:
Yep, I could have easily knocked a year off my 3 year house build if I wasnt winging it as I went. Actuall plans would have been great. I never realized how much time id daydream about stupid stuff like light and outlet locations.
Click to expand...
The daydreaming is useful if you do it with specifics.

Say you dream up four different rebar grids that will do the job. A pile of underpriced rebar falls in your lap and you're off to the races with whichever one of your plans it happens to work with.
 
2big bronco said:
I never realized how much time id daydream about stupid stuff like light and outlet locations.
Click to expand...
yeah extra shit because my outlet boxes are gonna be cast into the walls

anyone (probably greg) got a line on a 1970's caterpillar crawler personified in a shower drain?
Like cast brass or stainless or something, but with the outlet of it real flat to the surface, like a tub drain

I'll likely run red label copper for a li'l ways then fernco it to PVC once the slab thickens out
 
[486] said:
yeah extra shit because my outlet boxes are gonna be cast into the walls

anyone (probably greg) got a line on a 1970's caterpillar crawler personified in a shower drain?
Like cast brass or stainless or something, but with the outlet of it real flat to the surface, like a tub drain

I'll likely run red label copper for a li'l ways then fernco it to PVC once the slab thickens out
Click to expand...
www.roofmaster.com

2" Copper Side Outlet Drain | Roofmaster

Incorporates 90 degree right angle outlet for shallow joist areas. Sits flush on roof areas. Seamless, one-piece construction. Drain body and flange are
www.roofmaster.com www.roofmaster.com

They make small pipe roof drains. You might have to get a little creative with a grate and how you mount it but anything you pick will be overbuilt.

If you end up doing a membrane under your final pour you can flash that into the drain and then form and pour on top of it. They make roofs like that and they work well
 
csm_Product_Ref_image_Roof_1_Balcony_316x316px_f3a7bfcc4f.png


Something like the left side of the picture
 
D Nelly said:
www.roofmaster.com

2" Copper Side Outlet Drain | Roofmaster

Incorporates 90 degree right angle outlet for shallow joist areas. Sits flush on roof areas. Seamless, one-piece construction. Drain body and flange are
www.roofmaster.com www.roofmaster.com

They make small pipe roof drains. You might have to get a little creative with a grate and how you mount it but anything you pick will be overbuilt.

If you end up doing a membrane under your final pour you can flash that into the drain and then form and pour on top of it. They make roofs like that and they work well
Click to expand...
5" would poke through the floor entirely

looking like that brass one might be the one to get, the stainless version is discontinued so I probably should just order three of the polished brass ones RFN but we'll wait a li'l while to see if anyone else chimes in with something similar, but maybe in a 1 1/4" form factor
I can bush that one down easy peasy, and I'll be brazing the tube into it, but if I can find a smaller one then why not use a smaller one

if the shit does leak through the concrete then I'm probably stuck doing tile because I'd rather avoid having a big step-up into the bathroom
maybe just some kind of floor levelling compound trowelled and ground mirror smooth over top of that kerdi mat might work, but who knows how durable it'd be
 
[486] said:
anyone (probably greg) got a line on a 1970's caterpillar crawler personified in a shower drain?
Like cast brass or stainless or something, but with the outlet of it real flat to the surface, like a tub drain
Click to expand...
You should be able to find cast brass if you look around. That's default in "upscale" places like hospitals and nice office buildings.

Edit: Took me 1min. I'm sure there's more out there.

www.chicagofaucetshoppe.com

Prier P-312SW-BR Type Q Shower Drain - Elbow Sweat Brass Strainer (24 Pack)

Prier P-312SW-BR Type Q Shower Drain - Elbow Sweat Brass Strainer (24 Pack)
www.chicagofaucetshoppe.com
 
upon some further thought in regard to the smaller tube size, I found a tub drain elbow that's 1 1/2" but then I remember that if I'm going with the 'curbless shower' shenanigans with only like 3/4" of drop across the whole shower floor, that doesn't leave much capacity if it does stop up

so the 2" it is
and maybe a curb around the shower pan which means a bit of a raise to the pan ain't at all outta sight
because a plugged drain means REALLY nasty water that you wouldn't want all across the floor...

gonna have to think for a bit, having similar thoughts about the laundry room but with significantly less nasty of water
the kitchen floor drain is fairly likely not going to manifest itself

Maybe use the little tub drain elbow with a sink grate in it for the sink/toilet area of the bathroom and in the kitchen
where water in really big volume ain't likely and it's just a convenience for mopping or whatever

run the 2" one in the shower and laundry room
because the laundry one may well see a burst washer machine line, and the shower ain't gonna be a low-flow one
 
When I was doing my stainless shower pan I turned a stainless pipe to have o ring grooves that fit inside the 2" pvc. Works real well. I'd think you can do similar welded into the side of a custom trench drain or something, or just fab up the thing entirely and weld in some thread parts where you have clearance.
 
I'm pretty quickly figuring out that my plumbing is going to be entirely a fuckshow, through and through.

Sink trap, can I stick it in the floor rather than directly under the sink? like 3' fall to the floor then p-trap, then 4-5' run over to a trunk drain in the wall


Shitter venting,
I wanna avoid sticking a huge vent stack inside the wall because I figure that sticking that big void inside the wall will reduce the strength by a bit
Could do the big ugly vent stack inside the wall game but...

can it be punched through the wall subsurface and come up in the yard looking like the septic vents?
sloped back to the house so condensate drains back and all that
 
Dethmachinefab said:
When I was doing my stainless shower pan I turned a stainless pipe to have o ring grooves that fit inside the 2" pvc. Works real well. I'd think you can do similar welded into the side of a custom trench drain or something, or just fab up the thing entirely and weld in some thread parts where you have clearance.
Click to expand...
don't wanna do the popular trench drain in the shower thing
spent too many hours shovelling out black stinky slop outta shop drains for that

on the transitions from metal to PVC I was figuring I'd get some of them rubber fernco inserts
the stainless pipe is a good idea, 2" copper is stuuupid expensive and I've done copper to stainless with 45% silver rod before, so 2.125" stainless tube might be the way to go
 
[486] said:
Sink trap, can I stick it in the floor rather than directly under the sink? like 3' fall to the floor then p-trap, then 4-5' run over to a trunk drain in the wall
Click to expand...
My parents house has a trap under the floor. 4ft fall or so. Never been an issue
 
[486] said:
don't wanna do the popular trench drain in the shower thing
spent too many hours shovelling out black stinky slop outta shop drains for that

on the transitions from metal to PVC I was figuring I'd get some of them rubber fernco inserts
the stainless pipe is a good idea, 2" copper is stuuupid expensive and I've done copper to stainless with 45% silver rod before, so 2.125" stainless tube might be the way to go
Click to expand...
Yea I didn't do a trench on mine but probably should have because the pitch is a bit low. Instead of trench, a simple fab'd round drain with pipe stubbed into the side would be good.

I did the slide in design because I needed to drop the pan flush to the slab at the drain and into the existing roughed in pipe with no access or space for fittings where is passed through the slab. I figured it worked pretty slick so I'd certainly do it again in other situations. Looked and couldn't find any pics of the stub, but it's simple enough.

20180507_191738.jpg
 
Dethmachinefab said:
Yea I didn't do a trench on mine but probably should have because the pitch is a bit low. Instead of trench, a simple fab'd round drain with pipe stubbed into the side would be good.

I did the slide in design because I needed to drop the pan flush to the slab at the drain and into the existing roughed in pipe with no access or space for fittings where is passed through the slab. I figured it worked pretty slick so I'd certainly do it again in other situations. Looked and couldn't find any pics of the stub, but it's simple enough.

20180507_191738.jpg
Click to expand...
20180507_191738.jpg

correct?

I think the one hidden back there is just another p-trap
the straight pipe coupler on the 3" made it kinda look like that pipe was tied in strange...

that's pretty much what I'm figuring on doing, but with the vents tying back in to the drain line that goes through the wall once it gets pretty horizontal so that the waste line also acts as the vent, down where it is all pretty flat and therefore not making suction
 
[486] said:
20180507_191738.jpg

correct?

I think the one hidden back there is just another p-trap
the straight pipe coupler on the 3" made it kinda look like that pipe was tied in strange...

that's pretty much what I'm figuring on doing, but with the vents tying back in to the drain line that goes through the wall once it gets pretty horizontal so that the waste line also acts as the vent, down where it is all pretty flat and therefore not making suction
Click to expand...
Yes 3 traps on the back wall, that is a straight coupler making it look funny. The one marked vent is also wet, bathroom sink drains into that and a vent stack goes up to the roof.

Found a pic of the guest shower pan, the trap hidden behind the coupler. To get a reasonable curb with 3x3 box I had to slam the center flush with the slab.
20190202_175607.jpg
 
arright cool, that kinda surprised me with the li'l 2" venting a toilet and everything else, that it works okay even being a wet vent is pretty heartening

stainless shower pan end up real slippery?
 
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