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I understand what I did. What I'm asking is will the tire not lock when there's a load on it? I'm thinking these brakes will just put a drag on the tires.
I think the tires are going to drag and get flat spots.
 
I understand what I did. What I'm asking is will the tire not lock when there's a load on it? I'm thinking these brakes will just put a drag on the tires.





Thanks for the offer, Twinkie. Let me say for the record, I'm not "not buying" a controller to save money. I don't have time to install it right now. I will probably install one in the future. The blue tooth style has got my attention.



Do you really think the axles will bend? I would think there's enough "safety factor" built in to the trailer to handle it. I wouldn't consider this over thousands of miles, but I'm talking about a 100 miles of slow driving.

There's no place around here that rents trailers like that. Besides, I'm looking at an excavator to buy. If I drive a hundred miles with a rented trailer, the guy will probably not negotiate at all. If I show up with mine, I can just drive home if I don't want to pay asking price.

The time you have spent typing out replies today is sufficient to wire a brake controller.
 
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vintage family photo
 
I understand what I did. What I'm asking is will the tire not lock when there's a load on it? I'm thinking these brakes will just put a drag on the tires.





Thanks for the offer, Twinkie. Let me say for the record, I'm not "not buying" a controller to save money. I don't have time to install it right now. I will probably install one in the future. The blue tooth style has got my attention.



Do you really think the axles will bend? I would think there's enough "safety factor" built in to the trailer to handle it. I wouldn't consider this over thousands of miles, but I'm talking about a 100 miles of slow driving.

There's no place around here that rents trailers like that. Besides, I'm looking at an excavator to buy. If I drive a hundred miles with a rented trailer, the guy will probably not negotiate at all. If I show up with mine, I can just drive home if I don't want to pay asking price.

I put a 50 hp massey ferguson on my 7k trailer. The data on the tractor said it should have been around 5,600 lbs. With the huge finish mower, I figured it was closer to 6500. Just by feel alone while towing I could tell it was quite a bit more. My best guess is that the tires were ballasted and added another ~1,100lbs. I think I hit a bad pothole or something along the way too, which obviously didn't help. Either way, the next day I noticed a subtle but obvious camber in both axles. I ran it that way for another year or two, only hauling my ~5k rig and could see it getting worse until one wheeling trip where I lost a tire on the way out. Inside of the tire was completely worn down to threads. Threw the spare on for the rest of the trip and barely made it home to find that spare just about to blow. When I pulled the axles to replace them, both were bent right at the u-bolt spring clamp.


Keep in mind a trailer rated for 7k includes the weight of the trailer itself, minus any pin weight on the hitch. My steel deck weighs 1200+ lbs. I can technically only haul about 6,500 lbs and stay under the axle weight. Sure there's some wiggle room, but 9k would put 50% over.
 
OK, guys, I have a BDL coming up possible next week. I want some opinions. I'm looking to haul a 9000 lb. machine on a 7000 lb. trailer. I know allot of guys would do that without a second thought. In this case, I haven't had trailer brakes on this trailer since I got it. I bought it with no wiring. I wired the lights and have used it ever since that way. .

Worry less about the brakes and more about structural strength - 7k trailer is probably 2-3k light, so with a 9k load you're close to double rated GVW - you're going to wind up with a trailer that looks like a pretzel.
 
I put a 50 hp massey ferguson on my 7k trailer. The data on the tractor said it should have been around 5,600 lbs. With the huge finish mower, I figured it was closer to 6500. Just by feel alone while towing I could tell it was quite a bit more. My best guess is that the tires were ballasted and added another ~1,100lbs. I think I hit a bad pothole or something along the way too, which obviously didn't help. Either way, the next day I noticed a subtle but obvious camber in both axles. I ran it that way for another year or two, only hauling my ~5k rig and could see it getting worse until one wheeling trip where I lost a tire on the way out. Inside of the tire was completely worn down to threads. Threw the spare on for the rest of the trip and barely made it home to find that spare just about to blow. When I pulled the axles to replace them, both were bent right at the u-bolt spring clamp.

Interesting. Did you replace them with a higher ratting axle? That's what I would probably do. It's also interesting that yours bent right after the spring clamp. I've seen several bent axles and they were bent along the whole tube. (Like a smile) I've even seen people flip the axle to bend the other way. Lol. I would think that's asking for trouble. If the weight puts the axle on the frame, I won't run it. I've hauled over 6000 lbs several times with no issues. (Even without brakes.) Actually, I should say "without incident") Brakes was an issue. (I just took it easy)
 
I put an 08 Tundra ccsb and 2,000 lbs of well pipe on my 7k trailer. It was fine. The trailer is built heavy. I think they used the same frame for their 10k trailers.


I would not have done it without properly functioning trailer brakes and a brake controller.
 
Or hit your local junkyard up, I have a couple of Tekonsha Sentinel proportional brake controllers that I got at my local junkyard for under $15 each all wired up for our vehicles.

Aaron Z

This sounded like a great idea I went to my junk yard this morning to find one for my van. After 45 minutes of messing around I had exactly 2 choices and both could be had on eBay for about 12 bucks.
 
The time you have spent typing out replies today is sufficient to wire a brake controller.
Especially if you get a newer one, they have a plug on the controller and are available with a harness that will have a plug for the controller and one for the truck, literally 5 minutes to install.


Worry less about the brakes and more about structural strength - 7k trailer is probably 2-3k light, so with a 9k load you're close to double rated GVW - you're going to wind up with a trailer that looks like a pretzel.
Depends on the trailer, 1800#-2500# would be my guess for curb weight for a 18' car hauler. With 800# of tongue weight and 9000# on the trailer that would put you 3000-3700# overweight.
I wouldn't do it on a trailer that I wanted to use afterwards.

Aaron Z
 
This sounded like a great idea I went to my junk yard this morning to find one for my van. After 45 minutes of messing around I had exactly 2 choices and both could be had on eBay for about 12 bucks.
I must have a better junkyard (or you have something uncommon?). Have a 2005 Yukon 1500 and a 2002 F350, they had 4-5 vehicles with for both with brake controllers that would have fit.

Aaron Z
 
Do you really think the axles will bend? I would think there's enough "safety factor" built in to the trailer to handle it. I wouldn't consider this over thousands of miles, but I'm talking about a 100 miles of slow driving.

If the axles are actually supported by the spring you'll be fine. If they are bouncing all over the bump stop (probably the frame because trailers basically never have rubber bump stops) then you will bend shit.
 
Interesting. Did you replace them with a higher ratting axle? That's what I would probably do. It's also interesting that yours bent right after the spring clamp. I've seen several bent axles and they were bent along the whole tube. (Like a smile) I've even seen people flip the axle to bend the other way. Lol. I would think that's asking for trouble. If the weight puts the axle on the frame, I won't run it. I've hauled over 6000 lbs several times with no issues. (Even without brakes.) Actually, I should say "without incident") Brakes was an issue. (I just took it easy)

most trailer axles have bend in them purposely. i've replaced a number of bent dump trailer axles and they all bent out board of the spring and axle tubes still had factory bend to them.

overloading a 7k trailer depends on the trailer, plenty would handle it fine. but my brother has a 10k trailer build like a cheap 7k that would probably fold up with anything over 10k. i've also bent a 14k trailers cross bracing loading a 10k forklift. i wouldve thought the trailer should be able to handle it. it amazes me travel trailers dont have more problems, never known anyone to be under weight, including me.

and to keep bdl, i do my dumb work at night when the roads are empty.
i believe it was 16k of steel beams. (customer was supposed to transport, didn't plan and couldn't find anyone last minute) the truck is a 6.2 gasser with 456gears. didn't have too far to go 55 tops.
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and this one;
10k gallon 10g ss water tank. was supposed to be able to finish this tank in shop and use a landing craft to deliver to island. but state wouldn't let us use the public boat launch. so left it in 2 pieces and finished in place. sketch loading and securing, plus over height at a bit over 15'. i drove the route the night before with 2x4's clamped to my headache rack at height to be sure i wouldn't catch any low lines.
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bgaidan;n205746 Keep in mind a trailer rated for 7k includes the weight of the trailer itself. [/QUOTE said:
I don’t agree with this. Unless smaller trailers are rated differently, I would deduct the weigh of the trailer from the trailer rating and that is what you have for payload capacity
 
I don’t agree with this. Unless smaller trailers are rated differently, I would deduct the weigh of the trailer from the trailer rating and that is what you have for payload capacity

I think you are saying the same thing as him. I would agree for the most part. I think you should deduct the the sprung weight of the trailer. I suppose you could add 10 percent for the weight on the tongue if your splitting hairs.
 
I don’t agree with this. Unless smaller trailers are rated differently, I would deduct the weigh of the trailer from the trailer rating and that is what you have for payload capacity

That's what he was saying. 7000 lb car trailers typically have 2 3500lb axles.
 
I think you are saying the same thing as him. I would agree for the most part. I think you should deduct the the sprung weight of the trailer. I suppose you could add 10 percent for the weight on the tongue if your splitting hairs.

Just flat tow it, or are you too scared.
 
WaterH

it's all fun and games to taco your own trailer or bend your own axle, but I think you're needlessly endangering the public if you're intending to haul 9k on a 7k trailer 100 miles with no brakes, part of this is me assuming that your trailer tires are also shoddy... I hope you reconsider
Now maybe your 100 miles is all rural flat and you can run 45 with the hazards on, great, still fix your brakes:laughing:


personally, I'd jam up there in a car with $500-1000 deposit money, or the 16k in an envelope if you are a "show him the money" kinda guy

then I'd negotiate the price for him to deliver it, most likely he has the truck and trailer

You're also buying "insurance", if he wrecks on the way there, you aren't buying the machine

if he can't transport, give him the deposit and go buy, borrow or rent a trailer, or use the week to get your trailer ready
 
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I think you are saying the same thing as him. I would agree for the most part. I think you should deduct the the sprung weight of the trailer. I suppose you could add 10 percent for the weight on the tongue if your splitting hairs.

If they're checking you to give you a ticket for being overweight they're going to ticket you on how much pressure the tires are putting on the ground.
They they don't care how much is from or unsprung, just how much weight is being put onto the ground by the tires.

As such, tongue weight goes against the truck capacity, the trailer is only scaled for the weight on the tires.

Aaron Z
 
WaterH

it's all fun and games to taco your own trailer or bend your own axle, but I think you're needlessly endangering the public if you're intending to haul 9k on a 7k trailer 100 miles with no brakes, part of this is me assuming that your trailer tires are also shoddy... I hope you reconsider
Now maybe your 100 miles is all rural flat and you can run 45 with the hazards on, great, still fix your brakes:laughing:


personally, I'd jam up there in a car with $500-1000 deposit money, or the 16k in an envelope if you are a "show him the money" kinda guy

then I'd negotiate the price for him to deliver it, most likely he has the truck and trailer

You're also buying "insurance", if he wrecks on the way there, you aren't buying the machine

if he can't transport, give him the deposit and go buy, borrow or rent a trailer, or use the week to get your trailer ready

I have brakes, just might be too much brakes. It is a 100 miles of rural roads. 45 was what I was thinking of running.

As far as dealing. I don't take checks or give em. I'm not real kean on deposits. One time I gave a deposit on a car and came back to find no car and no guy. I came back three more times and caught the guy. He said someone gave him more money. He did give my deposit back, but what a hassle. I also don't like paying for the whole machine and coming back later. Might come back and find someone stole "my" bucket or put water in the fuel. This machine is sitting on 80 acres of vacant land. (The guy has to drive an hour to meet me.) He can depend on others honestly, but not me.
 
I've done 9k (fiberglass box with cabinets) on a 7k trailer, its sketchy but made it 150 miles on a major highway. Difference is I had a decent tow rig and a brake controller. Definitely wore inside of the tires, but the axles sprung back.

It broke through the floor and forced me to re build the trailer

20180719_121711.jpg
 
Really looking foward to the headline "Florida man pulling oversized load kills everyone"

How does any one trust you with flying helicopters? Your posts are like watching, what if, Polacks had a space program.
 
I have brakes, just might be too much brakes. It is a 100 miles of rural roads. 45 was what I was thinking of running.

As far as dealing. I don't take checks or give em. I'm not real kean on deposits. One time I gave a deposit on a car and came back to find no car and no guy. I came back three more times and caught the guy. He said someone gave him more money. He did give my deposit back, but what a hassle. I also don't like paying for the whole machine and coming back later. Might come back and find someone stole "my" bucket or put water in the fuel. This machine is sitting on 80 acres of vacant land. (The guy has to drive an hour to meet me.) He can depend on others honestly, but not me.

Why do you even post asking a question when you've already made up your mind on what your answer is?
 
Why do you even post asking a question when you've already made up your mind on what your answer is?

I'm asking if the tire will lock up with weight on it. I wanted an experienced answer, not a guess. Nobody gave one. I was happy that I got two answers about that much weight on a 7000 lb trailer. Of course, one says there will be damage and the other says no. I haven't made up my mind yet. In fact I probably won't untill it's on the trailer.
 
I must have a better junkyard (or you have something uncommon?). Have a 2005 Yukon 1500 and a 2002 F350, they had 4-5 vehicles with for both with brake controllers that would have fit.

Aaron Z

Some of us don’t have junkyards... or Craigslist... or even marketplace.
 
I'm asking if the tire will lock up with weight on it. I wanted an experienced answer, not a guess. Nobody gave one. I was happy that I got two answers about that much weight on a 7000 lb trailer. Of course, one says there will be damage and the other says no. I haven't made up my mind yet. In fact I probably won't untill it's on the trailer.

There is no way in hell electronic drums are going to be locking up the tires on an overloaded trailer unless that trailer is driving on ice and ball bearings. Electric over hydraulic might do it but even then it's a long shot.
 
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