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A-Salt truck. 2002 International 4900

[486] said:
.500 is square tube
1/2 is angle iron
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Ah. I was going to weld in 3" receiver tube. Has been on backorder the whole time, it seems. Could just save the coin, cut the square hole to fit the hitch and weld it directly in with gussets.
 
Any truck upfitters should have Buyers receiver tubes on the shelf.

Or do like 486 said and pick up a piece of square tube and make your own.
 
AK_F250 said:
Any truck upfitters should have Buyers receiver tubes on the shelf.

Or do like 486 said and pick up a piece of square tube and make your own.
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Not sure how I'd line up the pin holes, though.

I do have plenty of 1/2" plate for gussets sitting at the property. Welding the hitch directly in would make theivery a hell of a lot harder.
 
[486] said:
it is in the middle
of the horizontal side

You... Alright, man?
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They're in the middle, so easy enough to scratch the lines with a square. The holes on these hitches are snug. Wouldn't surprise myself if I got a hole misaligned.
 
On the hitch yes, but receiver tubes are generally pretty sloppy since they need to fit every hitch out there.

You would probably need to deal with the weld seam inside though.
 
AK_F250 said:
On the hitch yes, but receiver tubes are generally pretty sloppy since they need to fit every hitch out there.

You would probably need to deal with the weld seam inside though.
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Yeah. I've always disliked how sloppy they are. That was one of three things that got me thinking I should just weld it directly. No tubing and pin cost, no receiver rattle, and nobody able to yank out my $500 hitch. The Bulletproof stainless pins and locks are nice, but with cordless grinders everywhere nowadays and flap discs that can tear down stainless quickly, that hitch could be gone in no time.
 
JNHEscher said:
Gonna save my money and weld it in. Would have to weld the tube in just the same.
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Why would you do that (unless you need the hitch to stick out from the back of the truck) when $42 will get you a 1/2" thick 3" wide (inside) channel to weld onto the flat plate on the back of the truck and put the adjustable hitch onto: https://www.amazon.com/Buyers-Products-B9912-5-Position-Channel/dp/B01D05YKMK/ (not sure if its the right size, but its rated for 20K, make sure you get the right width one):
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Edit: They also make a 5/16" thick channel of the same dimensions for $30: https://www.amazon.com/Buyers-Products-B8979-5-Position-Channel/dp/B0087P9F2Y
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Aaron Z
 
aczlan said:
Why would you do that (unless you need the hitch to stick out from the back of the truck) when $42 will get you a channel to weld onto the flat plate on the back of the truck and put the adjustable hitch onto: https://www.amazon.com/Buyers-Products-B9912-5-Position-Channel/dp/B01D05YKMK/ (not sure if its the right size, but its rated for 20K, make sure you get the right width one):
1660707241992.png


Aaron Z
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I didn't know those existed until after I purchased the hitch. May just go with that and sell the hitch. The receiver tube posted has the pin hole towards the front and the hitch pin holes are towards the rear - which would make the hitch hang out too far for my comfort.
 
JNHEscher said:
I didn't know those existed until after I purchased the hitch. May just go with that and sell the hitch. The receiver tube posted has the pin hole towards the front and the hitch pin holes are towards the rear - which would make the hitch hang out too far for my comfort.
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Make sense, looks like a replacement double ball head with a 36k rating is $150 through them: BulletProof Heavy/Extreme Duty 2 or $140 on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Bulletproof-Hitches-Replacement-Adjustable-Textured/dp/B07286736N/ and should fit that channel.
They also sell a pintle retainer for it if you wanted to retain the ability to run a pintle hitch: BulletProof Pintle Attachment

Aaron Z
 
aczlan said:
Make sense, looks like a replacement double ball head with a 36k rating is $150 through them: BulletProof Heavy/Extreme Duty 2 or $140 on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Bulletproof-Hitches-Replacement-Adjustable-Textured/dp/B07286736N/ and should fit that channel.
They also sell a pintle retainer for it if you wanted to retain the ability to run a pintle hitch: BulletProof Pintle Attachment

Aaron Z
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Yeppers. I'm aware of all the Bulletproof products. Bought my hitch from my friends that own and operate C&M Farms. Her brother is also a friend of ours whom runs Westgate Trailers down here where we bought our trailer. I can get Bulletproof products from either one and get anything from etrailer next day through them. I'll plan on selling the hitch and upping to the 36k double. I thought the 22k was the max at the time and my truck reg allows me to pull 22k.

Going to check the width of the double ball on my Bulletproof tomorrow.
 
JNHEscher said:
Yeppers. I'm aware of all the Bulletproof products. Bought my hitch from my friends that own and operate C&M Farms. Her brother is also a friend of ours whom runs Westgate Trailers down here where we bought our trailer. I can get Bulletproof products from either one and get anything from etrailer next day through them. I'll plan on selling the hitch and upping to the 36k double. I thought the 22k was the max at the time and my truck reg allows me to pull 22k.

Going to check the width of the double ball on my Bulletproof tomorrow.
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From the picture you posted and their pictures online, I would bet 3" it looks like they are all 3" no matter which manufacturer or shank size. I was assuming that they were different widths, but it looks like they are all 3" wide.

Aaron Z
 
aczlan said:
From the picture you posted and their pictures online, I would bet 3" it looks like they are all 3" no matter which manufacturer or shank size. I was assuming that they were different widths, but it looks like they are all 3" wide.

Aaron Z
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Believe that's the case. Just want to be sure before I order.
 
Brought the hitch home for pics to post it up. I'd put it in the classifieds here, but who the hell here wants a 3" hitch. Suppose I'll try CL.

Swapped hex bolts in place of the flathead bolts holding the feet on the roof racks that the solar panel is mounted to. Even with more torque, the feet still slide. I'll figure out a better mounting option after a while.
 
AK_F250 said:
Are the feet sliding on the roof?
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Feet are held on the tracks/bar with a single bolt and flat nut. Not enough clamping force to keep the feet from sliding outward as the straps pull on them.
I started to swap the other roof racks I have, but the u-bolts I have don't quite fit the bars.
 
Ah, electronically controlled transmissions.

This connector has been dangling for a while with no known effect on drivability. Started to take off today to work on the bus and it jumps into neutral again. Code 2214 for the speed sensor.


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Pics from my buddy that helped. We stopped to give it a once over after a few miles.

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Pic from my wife. Hazards on and keeping cars in check.

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No load in the bed of the truck and it never broke traction. Even with several first gear pulls up steep hills.

I had T30 service brake chambers on the bus drive axle running on the truck's trailer brakes for a little peace of mind. Eased on down the hills.

We rolled past the Ozark Raceway Park while they had an event going on. Must be a really good track. There were some very healthy drag cars running.
 
Ozark raceway is a blast! You’ll have to go check it out even a Friday test and tune is fun as hell if you’re a car guy
 
Leadfoot21 said:
Ozark raceway is a blast! You’ll have to go check it out even a Friday test and tune is fun as hell if you’re a car guy
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Must be. I've been eyeing it every time I go by. I've been a car guy since my days in diapers. My buddy and I are gonna keep an eye on events coming up.
 
shortbus4x4 said:
Dude, that's not sketchy enough for any nun bus killing. I figured you had a tow strap with a buddy the the driver’s seat.
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Ah nope lol. I've done plenty of that with small vehicles. That adjustable milsurp tow bar has been the bee's knees. And so has been having a smallish dump truck.
 
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