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A-Salt truck. 2002 International 4900

Patched the chewed wire and still had a relay on the fritz. It finally clicked while I had my hand on (been trying to figure out which relay by feel). Exhaust brake relay, which I have no clue of what it controls at this time. Back when I was messing with the rad fan, I found that the exhaust brake relay on the firewall controlled part of it. This truck has no exhaust brake....:homer:???

The same model of relay is used on the majority of the truck, so I swapped what I presumed to be a good relay (air condition) and it is so far idling without the trans pad resetting.

Spoke too soon. Same thing is now causing the trans pad to reset and stall the engine briefly.

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If the truck had an exhaust brake, the fan would come providing additional load to slow the truck, and obviously cool it.
 
Dethmachinefab said:
If the truck had an exhaust brake, the fan would come providing additional load to slow the truck, and obviously cool it.
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Kinda remember seeing that. Makes sense, too.

Really wondering what a second EB relay tucked next to the TCM is for. I'm not getting any clicking anymore, but something is making the truck stumble intermittently and eventually stalling it entirely. Found some vague codes on the NexLink. I'll see if they lead me to anything.
 
JNHEscher said:
Kinda remember seeing that. Makes sense, too.

Really wondering what a second EB relay tucked next to the TCM is for. I'm not getting any clicking anymore, but something is making the truck stumble intermittently and eventually stalling it entirely. Found some vague codes on the NexLink. I'll see if they lead me to anything.
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Not sure if its your explanation or my mis-understanding but "clicking relay" is a symptom not the cause.
The relay probably clicks when the power is interrupted cycling the keypad.
 
CarterKraft said:
Not sure if its your explanation or my mis-understanding but "clicking relay" is a symptom not the cause.
The relay probably clicks when the power is interrupted cycling the keypad.
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I didn't explain enough. I've had relays go south because the electromagnet got weak. So I eliminated that possibility by swapping to confirm whether or not it was merely a symptom The swapped relay isn't clicking. Pad is still resetting.

Pulled up two codes and they point to a communication problem at the IDM and cam sensor. I don't know why that would be resetting the trans pad. There is one trans code that I have to look up. Stuff to do when I get back to my laptop this eve.

Oh, how I would love to have a mechanical DT466 in this.
 
Really only because I'm incredibly drowsy now with the crud that neighbor kids brought over -

Have at it. I might wake up in the wee hours and start researching like I normally do. Might be in a better mood, too :laughing:



SID 254 was in the trans DTC's. May indeed be the pad.

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Codes can be pretty vague, but it's looking like it's high time that I clean up every one of the power connections.
 
for the mice, what about putting some death hot sauce in a mister and spraying it around? they hate the heat, spray it on all the wires and shit? just remember to not rub your eyes after working on the truck moving forward :laughing:
 
budget76 said:
for the mice, what about putting some death hot sauce in a mister and spraying it around? they hate the heat, spray it on all the wires and shit? just remember to not rub your eyes after working on the truck moving forward :laughing:
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D Nelly said:
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If you're gonna do it do it right :grinpimp:
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I'd say it's time to pull the pin on that sucker :laughing:. But yeah, hot pepper everywhere just might do it. I'll try not to grab my pecker after fondling any wiring.
 
We had a rodent take out the engine harness on a Subaru 3.6 recently, and it had pulled at firewall foam padding (for nesting material, I'm guessing). I wrapped the new harness with capsaicin tape, and treated the firewall padding + most top engine surfaces with a penetrating oil + ground cayenne mixture, then shook a shitload of ground black pepper on that mess. Black pepper is supposed to be toxic to rats, and the cayenne is supposed to be a decent repellent. So far, so good (fangers crawssed).
 
ExWrench said:
We had a rodent take out the engine harness on a Subaru 3.6 recently, and it had pulled at firewall foam padding (for nesting material, I'm guessing). I wrapped the new harness with capsaicin tape, and treated the firewall padding + most top engine surfaces with a penetrating oil + ground cayenne mixture, then shook a shitload of ground black pepper on that mess. Black pepper is supposed to be toxic to rats, and the cayenne is supposed to be a decent repellent. So far, so good (fangers crawssed).
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I'll start stocking up the ammo.

Not sure why, but rats had only taken up residence in the dump truck. Chewed up wiring, stole insulation out our house, gnawed all our potted plants down to nubs, etc.

Mice don't do much more than leave shit and piss stains all over in anywhere they nest. My Subaru headliner is soaked. And I had to take the blower box out to remove all the debris they put in it.

Neighbors have said the same thing - when they lived up in mid-MO, they never saw rodents problems like we do in the Ozarks.
 
Traced the keypad power. Had to because I didn't know exactly where it was routed. Pulled the breaker for it and let the truck idle for about half an hour. Not a single skip. Nothing but some severe corrosion.

Pulled and cleaned up an ABS breaker to swap in. Ran steady, so I took for a test drive. All went well

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As long as that holds, I believe I'm back to sticking some new gauges in and cleaning up the rest of the rat's nest (pun intended) of wiring.
 
Ran fantastically today. There be gauges on the way. Planning to haul gravel....Wednes...day lol.

I'll have to put that 22g power block together so that I can fire up a wall of glowing instruments.
 
A year and six days later.......


Tigged some Glowshift brackets onto the cluster panel today that I drew up and had cut by Send Cut Send last year. Got some glue curing as well that's holding some connectors together. I'll pot the connectors once they're all held as one with the glue.


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Contemplating whether to search for matching connectors to mate to the OE cluster connectors, or just cut and splice. Got some work ahead of me when it comes time to open up the schematics and get the right wires sorted.
 
That's pretty nice. I may have to do something like that. I'm not sure if I can get the factory gauges working. I have oil pressure and engine temperature hooked up but I have not seen them move. Might just be bad connections
 
Java230 said:
That's pretty nice. I may have to do something like that. I'm not sure if I can get the factory gauges working. I have oil pressure and engine temperature hooked up but I have not seen them move. Might just be bad connections
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The cluster on this completely fell apart and was loaded with bad connections. ISSPRO gauges would be a lot nicer, but not worth the cost for this pile.

Gonna see about getting all the warning lights set up and the rest of the power connectors glued tomorrow. TBD.
 
Had the indicator strip milled out last year as well. Drew it up in Fusion and found a guy in CO that was able to mill and engrave it for me.

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Infilled with black gelcoat. Gonna drill the backside of each block to accept an LED.

Hoping to have a lot of the cluster built by the end of the week.
 
JNHEscher said:
Had the indicator strip milled out last year as well. Drew it up in Fusion and found a guy in CO that was able to mill and engrave it for me.

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Infilled with black gelcoat. Gonna drill the backside of each block to accept an LED.

Hoping to have a lot of the cluster built by the end of the week.
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That's bad ass.
You think a china engraving laser could do that? I'm thinking I need one of those.
 
CarterKraft said:
That's bad ass.
You think a china engraving laser could do that? I'm thinking I need one of those.
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Dunno on that. Heat from a laser tends to make polycarbonate kinda brittle and start to micro crack at the cuts.

They guy had cut this uses Fusion 360 as well, so that made the file super easy to work with. He had a very fine point engraving bit for his mill.



The truck current takes multiple tries to start. My best guess is it's not building enough fuel pressure readily and the new pressure regulator I put in still doesn't for days on end. Probably gonna stick power for the gauges on a small battery so that they don't cut out each time I try to crank the engine. Gotta watch the HPOP and fuel pressure rather closely.
 
arse_sidewards said:
A big one can. I've got a friend who has access to one at work. He cuts shit for me out of 1/4 plywood so I can test fit before I SendCutSend.
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Let us know.

At some point, I may have a big ass shop with a slew of CNC machines. The shit people want me to make is piling up.
 
JNHEscher said:
The cluster on this completely fell apart and was loaded with bad connections. ISSPRO gauges would be a lot nicer, but not worth the cost for this pile.

Gonna see about getting all the warning lights set up and the rest of the power connectors glued tomorrow. TBD.
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I'd like water temp, oil press and fuel. I don't need the rest.... I should be able to get temp from. The tbi ecu? It's obd1 I think....
 
Java230 said:
I'd like water temp, oil press and fuel. I don't need the rest.... I should be able to get temp from. The tbi ecu? It's obd1 I think....
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I'm not entirely sure on your setup. Didn't quite read through it all. Most aftermarket temp gauges come with a temp sensor.

Current list for my dump truck is: HPOP, EOP, boost, EBP, water temp, volts, dual air pressure, speedo, tach, fuel pressure, fuel level.
 
JNHEscher said:
I'm not entirely sure on your setup. Didn't quite read through it all. Most aftermarket temp gauges come with a temp sensor.

Current list for my dump truck is: HPOP, EOP, boost, EBP, water temp, volts, dual air pressure, speedo, tach, fuel pressure, fuel level.
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It's GM TBI. Standalone engine computer. Has temp sensor, but no oil pressure.
 
Java230 said:
It's GM TBI. Standalone engine computer. Has temp sensor, but no oil pressure.
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That'll have temp for sure. Part of the requirements for fuel injection management. Quite a few options for pulling data through OBD nowadays. Personally, I'd still stick an aftermarket thermistor in an available port just so that I wouldn't have to occupy the OBD in most cases.
 
Test fit was alright. Note to self: Take Send Cut Send's tolerances more seriously.

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All three cluster connectors are the same. Gonna browse Mouser tonight for a match.

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Lastly, I need to draw up a retainer for the tach. Dumb thing about the Glowshift 7 color series is the tach is only pedestal mount. Might show my boys a little more Fusion 360 tonight and have them make a file to be cut or 3D printed.

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