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83 pickup that went full buggy,

i am running pass drop, and i decided to let the crack go and just used a thick plate for the pto cover and sealed it it. some one else posted they had the same crack and it just dripped a tiny bit.
 
bits of progress. nothing earth shattering but still getting stuff done.
RAD lines are taking shape. using a bit of SS tubing and flex hose. trying to make it fairly simple. like my flex hose with 90s, if i recall i can use them in 3 spots, and then 2 strait flex and a couple coupling and bam. very simple to carry spares if needed.

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now the lower line needs ran, big challenge is i have to make a dam near 180 out the bottom of the RAD and go forward. after toying with some different ideas i decided to make a mitered 180 with 22 degree cuts, currently i am using 1.5" .120 wall so that kind makes for a blockage. may step up to 1.75 .120 wall to help that. maybe not a big deal either. dont know . winging it... and bending the SS i get mixed up sometimes and bend the oppistie and so i mess up a tube once in while. so this run i will have a couple couplings. oh well.


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chaplinfj60 said:
now the lower line needs ran, big challenge is i have to make a dam near 180 out the bottom of the RAD and go forward. after toying with some different ideas i decided to make a mitered 180 with 22 degree cuts, currently i am using 1.5" .120 wall so that kind makes for a blockage. may step up to 1.75 .120 wall to help that. maybe not a big deal either. dont know . winging it... and bending the SS i get mixed up sometimes and bend the oppistie and so i mess up a tube once in while. so this run i will have a couple couplings. oh well.




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Would it be worth moving the lower outlet of the rad to come out in front of the rad, and run one of those 90* hoses from there?
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and silly as it sounds i wanted the hoses to face back ward just because if one popped off the water would go back not toward the passengers, but now that you say it the lower one would have been easier to do exactly that and there is a fuel tank and firewall between us and that hose and water. ugggg.....
 
fire wall is about done. a few little parts and will be complete. the green panel thing i drew will be another panel that i will mount the engine computer too and the last pic is basic concept of computer and initial wiring for all that. i wanted the computer outside firewall but there is way too much heat out there.


all my aluminum is 1/8 inch. its what i can get this is cheap. buddy works at a fab shop and i get some drop pieces or mis cuts. so everything is 1/8..... lol

the passenger side does have me worried some because there may be a bit of heat with the RAD lines going through and your foot sitting next to them but i will add a panel or some thick rubber or something last pic ...

lots of little things this weekend done also. gonna try and fire it off next weekend. had a few hang-ups saturday so we try again in a few more days.
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yeah, passenger is gonna get crispyyyy
 
I think that would be better, for sure
 
pulled the plugs out last night and replace with new and built the plug wires and started to wrap the exhaust.

also thanks for suggestion from bebop to route the plugs under the tube than around to the top. i used 90s on the plugs and 135 and on each coil. ised a kit by ICT, there are better ones out there for sure, but this is what i found with quick shipping from a amazon. i started with scott and ended up here. i think just because its on amazon. but if need new ones i will be going to scott.

plugs :::
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Had a major milestone. It started up. But it was not an easy ordeal. Turns out I had two brand new sensors, one for the cam one for the crank that were bad, and it ruined any chance of starting backfired missed never would fire and run at all. I would pop off as all of 180° off of timing is what it seem like always had coil number to front driver side no spark could never get it to spark changed out the plug change out the coil pack changed everything still never had spark then I changed and went back to the original cam and crank sensor, and it worked just fine Dammit, Jim. Here is short 30 second vid of it running.
 
updates are being missed because i am feeling the time crunch, last week in april disney ok trip.

but here is something that worked like a champ to bleed the air out of the system while filling the coolant and trying to prevent air pockets. it was awesome, pour in fluid, crack bleeder, air comes out. close bleeder add more fluid. and repeat

topped off tcase and tranny and cycled everything. all is good so far.

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floor is mostly done. nothing fancy but it will work.

i was also able to reuse my old engine cage, just had to cut out one cross bar because it was too close to the intake (it hit it) i think i will use a thick flat bar and do something creative.



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going to fill in this area with a piece of metal

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drive shafts were done over the weekend.

front is omg crazy. the tube we found was 3/8 wall and 2.75 diameter. maybe 2,5 i cant remember. rear we were able to just cut the toyota end off and put the new spline piece on.
front and rear shafts are 1 inch different in length so that is awesome. one spare is all i need.
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chaplinfj60 said:
drive shafts were done over the weekend.

front is omg crazy. the tube we found was 3/8 wall and 2.75 diameter. maybe 2,5 i cant remember. rear we were able to just cut the toyota end off and put the new spline piece on.
front and rear shafts are 1 inch different in length so that is awesome. one spare is all i need.
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Damn Chappy, what's that shaft weigh? I build my front out of 1/4" cuz it was easy to find for me, it's probably 1/2 that tube length and it was heavy AF.
 
chaplinfj60 said:
verdict is not out yet on if i need to get different coil springs. but a decision has been made to raise the front mount mounts about 2 inches to get more uptravel.

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That's a good looking buggy. You've about motivated me to tear mine apart.
 
chaplinfj60 said:
verdict is not out yet on if i need to get different coil springs. but a decision has been made to raise the front mount mounts about 2 inches to get more uptravel.

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What's the preload, shaft showing and current rate of the springs ?
 
Bebop said:
What's the preload, shaft showing and current rate of the springs ?
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once i get all the weight back on the buggy, like full tank of fuel (less than 3 gallons in tank) , tool box, and winch then i will redo the math and figure out exactly what springs i need to get or not get. i also want to move the front shock mount because i dont feel like i have enough up, currently 5 inchs and would like 7.

going to disney next week so alot will be on hold till then.



i did drive around the yard for about 20 minutes and oh my gosh, i might be a little bit scared of all the power i have, at least 3 ties as much as the yota. holly buckets.... hahahah
 
94toytruck said:
Damn look at you go, last I looked you were adding a turbo to your 4banger. Looks good!
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yes, i loved the turbo and if i could only do rocks and technical crawling i would have stayed on the 4cyl. but the areas we go a rarely get to only do rock crawling, lots of hills, mud and rocks is what we end up with all in one trail so you need a bit more power at times. so i just want to have that option...
 
If
chaplinfj60 said:
yes, i loved the turbo and if i could only do rocks and technical crawling i would have stayed on the 4cyl. but the areas we go a rarely get to only do rock crawling, lots of hills, mud and rocks is what we end up with all in one trail so you need a bit more power at times. so i just want to have that option...
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you need to detune it for technical crawling you could always disconnect a couple of coils and the corresponding injector :flipoff2:
 
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