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83 pickup that went full buggy,

chaplinfj60 said:
thats a good question. i was thinking somewhere around Y maybe a bit more down stream
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There is an ideal placement for the o2's, maybe 18" from the header output IIRC, maybe that was wideband placement, not sure, you should research it. Having your collector that close to the header output may not be ideal for o2 placement. Is there no way to run the collector and crossover further downstream? Maybe between the 205 and trans, under the crawl box?
 
Mattygwheeler said:
There is an ideal placement for the o2's, maybe 18" from the header output IIRC, maybe that was wideband placement, not sure, you should research it. Having your collector that close to the header output may not be ideal for o2 placement. Is there no way to run the collector and crossover further downstream? Maybe between the 205 and trans, under the crawl box?
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i am winging this honestly. i will for sure research into it. i remember the wide band had to be 18 inch away. its a tight fit anywhere i go. i will get some pics up in the next few days on how my carrier bearing and drive shaft took up all the space on the passenger side. and fitting two pipes down the drivers side severely impacts my feet and pedals.

this is the trade off when building for one drive train then adding another trade off central :(
 
my biggest issue with installing my carrier bearing was my lower 4 link mount was too far inboard. and because of that i had to have the bearing further forward and then that created a fairly steep front drive shaft. like 34 degrees. so i set about on sunday to get this figured out. tried several different locations for the bearing but not happy with any. then i get serious about it. i removed what was blocking the angle.

so i move the lower link bracket. just one side of it. cut it off and re welded to the out side and moved the link and trimmed off the excess. this allowed me to lower the bearing about an inch or more, and take it further back and the combo of each i ended up with a 27-28 degree drive shaft. much happier and i can use this square drive shaft as a spare for both the front and rear, now my drive shafts are with in 2 inch of each other.

it maybe hard to follow and or understand exactly what i am doing. but all i can say is i like puzzles. and this is my 100,001 piece jig saw puzzle. :lmao:


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also got my front carrier bearing and drive shaft done., front drive shaft is square. used for mock up and a spare.

here are a few updated pics. turned out real good so far. pinion is pointed up approx 11 and when i place the angle finder back and re zero it subtracted the 11 and this is my ujoint angle basically 16

built the mount for carrier bearing and that turned out nice. in this pic its only tacked together and not all bracing is put on there.

i also attempted a vid on the youtube on doing this carrier bearing. link in sig.




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goals for the weekend would be get drivers side exhaust welded up, start the 3 inch under the drivers seat. start a plan for the floor. need more steel.

thinking of using 1.5 square 3/16 wall inside to make firewall and floor because its easier to attach panels to.no clue on how i should do the firewall and floor yet, thats gonna take some staring and :beer::beer: relaxation to figure it out.
if i get to it i will make the mounts for the fuel tank. and firm up measurements for the RAD, so far i am thinking of 26x16 cross flow from griffin . by the numbers its big enough. it will go behind the seats.
 
Get a bigger rad if you can. I got a 28x16 on mine now and it's borderline in hot summer days.

I got a 28x19 4 row I'll sell you cheap if you want.

Good fans are critical.
 
good am,

not too much of an update but did pull the engine and tranny witch allows me to final weld all the mounts for engine and tcase. make a cross member for engine and cut out one bar for the intake.

also i have a new in the box Ford Taurus fan FA70113 part number and worried it may not be enough fan for my set up. i have heard people use the volvo relay with this fan and it works good, just not sure. and not apposed to getting a different fan set up either.



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Taurus fan will be enough.
But the Volvo fan is easier to mount.
 
chaplinfj60 said:
you are correct. i over do everything. :lmao:
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I get over building things that will touch rock, but there is zero benefit to using that heavy of tube for what you're talking about.

Build everything that way and it's going to feel just as slow as before :flipoff2:

You going to pull those 7.17s out soon? I would be interested if so
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I get over building things that will touch rock, but there is zero benefit to using that heavy of tube for what you're talking about.

Build everything that way and it's going to feel just as slow as before :flipoff2:

You going to pull those 7.17s out soon? I would be interested if so
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yes on 7.17 keep you posted.

and point taken about extra weight for no benefit.
 
been knocking out little things here and there. nothing super cool, how ever i did clean a drive by cable throttle body i got off ebay with my ultra sonic cleaner. that thing is the cats meow....

i will post a few before during and after pics. wish i would have taken the pic from the same angle each time but i did not....

so i was using old cleaner in the machine, quite a few parts went through it. more messing around. so i started with that and then last night i drained all the old and replaced it with new. nothing fancy, water and degreaser from sams club concentrate, i think one gallon makes 32 gallons, so i just pour in some. not sure how much. maybe a cup maybe more

before

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DURING

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AFTER

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so i was playing around with the gas tank placement and think it will fit right here perfectly.


should i put some sort of firewall between the tank and cabin area since it will be right next to it?

and then plcae the RAD behind fuel cell between angled bars blowing all the hot air away from fuel tank.





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chaplinfj60 Yes! to the firewall. Personally, I wouldn't just have a half-wall barrier, I'd build it to wrap around the top. You flip it and catch fire you're gonna need a minute to orient and pop your belts to GTFO. Don't wanna see ya Leno'd:flipoff2:
 
so my thought was complete skin on back side of roll bars. makes washing off mud much easier because it wont get between the bars and panels.

even down the side some too.

been wanting something there for a minute because the mud sometimes is a pain on the back of the seats. and everywhere.

fucking hell, i get my RAD tomorrow and up until last night i was putting it behind the seat, then buddy and dave and i were talking and decided to set the tank more mid chassis for better weight distro and now i could go to a 26x 22 or maybe taller, current is 26x19. hahahah not gonna worry about it. just funny how shit can change with a fresh set of eyes tossing around ideas.

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so i am going through and looking at axles and such and thinking about getting 4340 chromos and and another thread dutchman was mention, talked to them last night and i will get the needed measurements tonight, but i found out looking through my amazon orders from 2 years back, maybe 18 months, i all ready have 4340 axles in the front, well 3 out of the four shafts are, the left inner is 1541 .

funny i dont even remember screwing up the order, some times the :beer: :beer::beer: and amazon just dont mix. why did i not get the forth in 4340, how did i fuckup the order and get one 1541 or whatever it is. maybe they were out of stock at that time. who knows. lol
 
Not sure if this helps you or not, but I saw another ls buggy recently where he flipped the header on the side with the driveshaft upside down so it pointed high and forward, than ran a connector pipe around the front. Neat that the pattern is symmetrical.

Another option would be 2 driver side headers to point it forward but lower.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Not sure if this helps you or not, but I saw another ls buggy recently where he flipped the header on the side with the driveshaft upside down so it pointed high and forward, than ran a connector pipe around the front. Neat that the pattern is symmetrical.

Another option would be 2 driver side headers to point it forward but lower.
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early this week i saw jeep with LS ran his Pas side forward and around. i liked that for sure. but kinda got this set up this way now. but would be easy enough to change if it goes bad.
 
engine is back in, tranny is bolted up, torque converter installed. tycase buttoned up. it is sitting where it will sit...

a tip i learned about the LS, unlike the old school small block chevy there is only 5holes for bell housing cast into the block . not 6 like the tranny has. if dave was not there i would have been on the struggle bus trying to figure that out. hahahaa

mocked up rad and fan location.

need to finish exhaust first, then i will do the seats. and start interior, then gas tank and rad/fan all goals for this week.

O2 sensor is from old exhaust, it may work here it may not. planon having 4-6 inches of free space between gas tank and rad. may put in some expanded metal so nothing can get to close to the front of the rad.

fan and rad will be pretty easy. just some tabs and bam, its in place.

also i have 1.5 inch SS tubing for coolant to go to the back of the car. they will go down the passenger side, under the side of the seat, need some sort of heat shield, maybe, just pipe insulation is all that is needed.

thats the muffler and resonator i will be using and dumping all the way at the back center, but will need to build a heat shield under gas tank.

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well started to finish off exhaust last night....
ran into issues. like i dont want a muffler directly below my floor or under my seat, too much heat soak. then it also dont want it under fuel cell, its plastic. maybe i could make a heat shield. maybe. undecided. then i tried it out back under rear most section of bed. and the tube will hit on full bump on top of axle. fuck.....

i have always liked boom tubes from nascar. so maybe one of these will help with axle truss to tube hit because i can be 1.5 inch instead 3 inches so i set out on creating one. not sure if it will be crazy loud because all i was gonna use was that little resinator and the boom tube.


its sitting in a temp spot still on the fence on it.

how loud will it be? anyone got any ideas,
should i put a glass pack in to drop the noise a bit
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a few updates to the previouse updates.

lol

exhaust is all done but i think i want one more hanger mid pipe right behind the drivers seat.

boom tube
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put i piece of flex inthere
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under driver seat clearance. need a heat shield for

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this glass pack was brite so i got it.

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removed this bit and went straight through
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and this resinator is gone also.
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