Enormiss
Member
- Joined
- May 20, 2020
- Member Number
- 719
- Messages
- 21
Is that EBP right?
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7.3 thread continued?
- Thread starter YotaAtieToo
- Start date
Is that EBP right?
Were you running the windshield wipers? When the CPS took a shit? What brand CPS?
Mouse
User number 1130
- Joined
- May 22, 2020
- Member Number
- 1130
- Messages
- 34
I had to put electrical chokes on my wiper motor wires to prevent interference with a sensitive CPS (Napa brand)
Couchracing
Member
- Joined
- Sep 2, 2020
- Member Number
- 2806
- Messages
- 16
They would have been on intermittent as it was a shower, not a piss. Was a stock unit Ford (2001) pre update. Installed a Napa part and ran it for approx 250K.
I didn't know there was a link between the cps and wipers. Got rid of the truck due to mileage and importance of having a reliable vehicle at the time, not due to failures. In retrospect, should have kept it as the Ford platform was far superior to the Dodge (to avoid) at the time.
I’ve been told the non motorcraft CPS’s and wipers have been problematic for some, it was an issue for me.
KungFooMASTA
El Stupido
Thanks I will look into that. Im not sure if they work or not. I plan on swapping the steering wheel with my 94 idi too to see if that is the issue. But cruise doesn’t work on it either so..
Idk what it should be. It seems real high though. I’ve heard you want it as close to 1/1 with boost as you can. But that shot was at idle so idk if the 1/1 ratio is at full boost or all the time. I only drove it around town once with the numbers running. It never hit over 5lbs of boost but I never really had a chance to make a pull in a higher gear either. The cel never came on and it never started running bad while I had it on either so I couldnt get a reading on what it was doing when it ran bad.
I will drive it this weekend I have to get some metal for my roof so I will be pulling the trailer.
KungFooMASTA
El Stupido
I am replacing the engine wire harness, uvchs and the ipr.
I am trying to get a new fuel bowl wire harness because it looks bad and the connection at the ipr is not in good shape at all.
What is this extra temp sensor type connector on the fuel bowl harness it was not hooked to anything and I cant find any temp sensor looking things to hook it too. Also how do you get that connector to the left of the other sensor on the fuel bowl. I dont want to break it when I remove it. Guessing one is water sensor and one is fuel heater but idk what is what.
I got the ac working now put a new pump and receiver dryer on it. While getting it sucked down and charged I had my friend hook up a obd reader at his work since forscan wont show me any codes these are what came up.
I put reverse bulbs in, it didnt even have any. They still didn’t work. Crawled underneath and two wires were hanging down the connector was gone. Touching them together and the reverse lights come on. I have a 97 F150 with a 5 speed sitting in the field I will pull the connector off it since it should the same reverse switch. Still trying to get the cruise control working.
I plan on taking it to Disney next week pulling the buggy so it will be around 500 miles round trip.
I am trying to get a new fuel bowl wire harness because it looks bad and the connection at the ipr is not in good shape at all.
What is this extra temp sensor type connector on the fuel bowl harness it was not hooked to anything and I cant find any temp sensor looking things to hook it too. Also how do you get that connector to the left of the other sensor on the fuel bowl. I dont want to break it when I remove it. Guessing one is water sensor and one is fuel heater but idk what is what.
I got the ac working now put a new pump and receiver dryer on it. While getting it sucked down and charged I had my friend hook up a obd reader at his work since forscan wont show me any codes these are what came up.
I put reverse bulbs in, it didnt even have any. They still didn’t work. Crawled underneath and two wires were hanging down the connector was gone. Touching them together and the reverse lights come on. I have a 97 F150 with a 5 speed sitting in the field I will pull the connector off it since it should the same reverse switch. Still trying to get the cruise control working.
I plan on taking it to Disney next week pulling the buggy so it will be around 500 miles round trip.
Tech Tim
Your AD Here....
Thats the plug for the fuel heater. It's just a rubber cap with a female terminal in it. It lifts straight off, doesn't slide to the side.
Slip a really small screwdriver in behind the edge and pop it up.
I just did my engine harness and fuel bowl harness. Got them both from RiffRaff in Oregon.
reptillikus
ate lug
Edit: posted at same time
That bulky connector is for the fuel bowl heater. It's pressed on, you have to pry it off. The bowl has a plastic piece that looks like a bulkhead feed-thru, except it's actually the thermistor for the heater. It has barbs on it to hold the connector in place. Of note is that wire is key-hot and shares the same 50a maxi fuse for power as the PCM.
P0470 means either the EBPS is bad, or clogged, or the tube is clogged. If you've never cleaned it before, I'd just assume both are clogged and replace them both.
P1280 usually means the ICP has failed but check the pigtail for it first.
I am replacing the engine wire harness, uvchs and the ipr.
I am trying to get a new fuel bowl wire harness because it looks bad and the connection at the ipr is not in good shape at all.
What is this extra temp sensor type connector on the fuel bowl harness it was not hooked to anything and I cant find any temp sensor looking things to hook it too. Also how do you get that connector to the left of the other sensor on the fuel bowl. I dont want to break it when I remove it. Guessing one is water sensor and one is fuel heater but idk what is what.
That bulky connector is for the fuel bowl heater. It's pressed on, you have to pry it off. The bowl has a plastic piece that looks like a bulkhead feed-thru, except it's actually the thermistor for the heater. It has barbs on it to hold the connector in place. Of note is that wire is key-hot and shares the same 50a maxi fuse for power as the PCM.
P0470 means either the EBPS is bad, or clogged, or the tube is clogged. If you've never cleaned it before, I'd just assume both are clogged and replace them both.
P1280 usually means the ICP has failed but check the pigtail for it first.
KungFooMASTA
El Stupido
Thank You I just didn’t want to break it. I need to pull this thing out of the garage so I am putting it back together with what I have. Hopefully my friend can get the harness in, in the next day or so. The fuel bowl harness is motorcraft Harness F7TZ-9S277-AA
Edit: posted at same time
That bulky connector is for the fuel bowl heater. It's pressed on, you have to pry it off. The bowl has a plastic piece that looks like a bulkhead feed-thru, except it's actually the thermistor for the heater. It has barbs on it to hold the connector in place. Of note is that wire is key-hot and shares the same 50a maxi fuse for power as the PCM.
P0470 means either the EBPS is bad, or clogged, or the tube is clogged. If you've never cleaned it before, I'd just assume both are clogged and replace them both.
P1280 usually means the ICP has failed but check the pigtail for it first.
Ok thank you. I will have to look what the EBPS is. Im guessing exhaust back pressure sensor? I dont even know where that is. I will have to search.
I replaced the icp a few months ago but I do remember dropping it. Also the harness is pretty rough. If its still bad I will get another icp sensor. The connector at the ipr is in rough shape too.
reptillikus
ate lug
You got it. Passenger side manifold, in the front of it is a 1/4" stainless tube that runs up to the top of the HPOP reservoir. The sensor is mounted there.
For the ICP, Ford only, don't buy aftermarket. If there's a ton of oil in the connector the sensor has failed. A small amount is not uncommon. If the pins in any connector on the engine look worn or sloppy/loose, replace the connector.
For the ICP, Ford only, don't buy aftermarket. If there's a ton of oil in the connector the sensor has failed. A small amount is not uncommon. If the pins in any connector on the engine look worn or sloppy/loose, replace the connector.
KungFooMASTA
El Stupido
Ok i see it now. Do you just clean it out with carb clean and air?
I have only got Ford Motorcraft things. But like I said i did drop it. And the factory harness had been spliced at that connection so that could have been it.
I guess I got Dorman uvchs against ibbs recommendation. My friend thats a Ford parts manager says they have had good luck with them and they are less than half the price of Ford. I told him I guess I would try but if they are junk I want a full refund. Lol.
I just started it, and backed it out of the garage. It fired right up. No check engine light but it did feel and sound like it was not hitting on all 8. I will do the other uvch, pyro, fuel pressure and boost gauges in the next couple days then the fuel bowl harness whenever it comes in.
I have only got Ford Motorcraft things. But like I said i did drop it. And the factory harness had been spliced at that connection so that could have been it.
I guess I got Dorman uvchs against ibbs recommendation. My friend thats a Ford parts manager says they have had good luck with them and they are less than half the price of Ford. I told him I guess I would try but if they are junk I want a full refund. Lol.
I just started it, and backed it out of the garage. It fired right up. No check engine light but it did feel and sound like it was not hitting on all 8. I will do the other uvch, pyro, fuel pressure and boost gauges in the next couple days then the fuel bowl harness whenever it comes in.
reptillikus
ate lug
I had mine apart maybe 50k ago now? So around 150k on the truck. I removed the tube from the engine and couldn't get it clear so it got replaced along with the sensor. In hindsight, maybe it should be done every so often as preventative maintenance, and now I think I should try cleaning mine again
I ran the Dorman UVCH's on mine prior to upgrading to the Superduty harness. The Dorman stuff wasn't terrible, but it definitely wasn't as good quality as the OEM stuff. I want to say I made it maybe 5 years before melting a pin for a glow plug. I upgraded to the SD stuff a couple years ago (all OEM) as it's both better and cheaper than the original parts.
I ran the Dorman UVCH's on mine prior to upgrading to the Superduty harness. The Dorman stuff wasn't terrible, but it definitely wasn't as good quality as the OEM stuff. I want to say I made it maybe 5 years before melting a pin for a glow plug. I upgraded to the SD stuff a couple years ago (all OEM) as it's both better and cheaper than the original parts.
Levigarrett76
Zeus of the Sluice
The dorman wires start falling apart from heat cycles over the years. Aluminum instead of Copper also.
KungFooMASTA
El Stupido
Any reason not to instal my pyro sensor on that yellow dot?
If I mount it there what temps are safe to sustain and what temps are ok for short amount of time and how long?
If I mount it there what temps are safe to sustain and what temps are ok for short amount of time and how long?
Tiha
Red Skull Member
That spot is fine. I go off 1300 degrees as a bench mark. Racing of course you go over that for a few seconds. But try not to ever run over about 1200 if you are pulling a long grade.
Usually if your EGTs are climbing, downshift. Get the rpms up, get some air moving.
Usually if your EGTs are climbing, downshift. Get the rpms up, get some air moving.
reptillikus
ate lug
I put mine in the driver manifold, because there is an embossed spot wheres theres plenty of material to tap.
Excuse the pic quality, this pic is from 2008:
Id imagine either location would net similar temps since either way youre pretty much in the up-pipe.
Ive maintained 1200º in the hills and never had any problems. Ive gone over 1200º, but as suggested, only intermittently. The 7.3 doesnt seem to care about doing 3200 rpm in 2nd gear, so ill usually just say fuck it and send it This is PA though, not CO. We have short steep hills, not 5 mile long inclines.
Excuse the pic quality, this pic is from 2008:
Id imagine either location would net similar temps since either way youre pretty much in the up-pipe.
Ive maintained 1200º in the hills and never had any problems. Ive gone over 1200º, but as suggested, only intermittently. The 7.3 doesnt seem to care about doing 3200 rpm in 2nd gear, so ill usually just say fuck it and send it
This is PA though, not CO. We have short steep hills, not 5 mile long inclines.Levigarrett76
Zeus of the Sluice
I think you need to look in to your air filter first
Are you running broken stock plastic airbox?
And ive always put mine in that spot in manifold shown above, afraid of losing heat in up-pipes and not getting accurate reading of in-cyl temp
Are you running broken stock plastic airbox?
And ive always put mine in that spot in manifold shown above, afraid of losing heat in up-pipes and not getting accurate reading of in-cyl temp
KungFooMASTA
El Stupido
Yeah the air filter was packed with dirt. The box was not broke though.I think you need to look in to your air filter first
Are you running broken stock plastic airbox?
And ive always put mine in that spot in manifold shown above, afraid of losing heat in up-pipes and not getting accurate reading of in-cyl temp
Dang, I already put the sensor there. I guess if it doesn’t work I can plug it and put it on the manifold. I just figured it was better where both sides joined.
Levigarrett76
Zeus of the Sluice
You see your compressor wheel blades? thats dusted pretty damned bad. Edges of compressor wheel are rounded off bad. If you've got stock air box look it over real close, especially if the top bolts havent been changed to metal from the recall. Did it look like dirt was passing by sealing surface in airbox?
KungFooMASTA
El Stupido
Those top bolts are metal and I was cussing them the whole time I was trying to put that stupid thing back together.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Anyone mind snapping some pics of their engine bay? Ideally a 97.
I'm trying to put mine back together and it's been quite some time since I tore it apart
I'm trying to put mine back together and it's been quite some time since I tore it apart
Levigarrett76
Zeus of the Sluice
Some shit has changed since this
reptillikus
ate lug
Looks like a cleaner version of mine. I really need to degrease it.
Anything in particular you want pics of?
Anything in particular you want pics of?
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
That will help, I started getting it figured out as I went also.
Thanks
Thanks
KungFooMASTA
El Stupido
Mine ran good on my last trip hauling the buggy. I went about 500 miles round trip. I have a drip of coolant coming from around or above the front oil cooler mount. It only seems to drip while im driving. While its sitting idling it doesn’t drip and I cant find it. It leaked less than a quart the whole trip.
My cruise control still doesn’t work. My neighbor claims I have to use the steering wheel from the Powerstroke that the IDI steering wheel wont work with my cruise control. Not sure why that would be they use the same connectors.
So far Ive checked the cruise fuse and for power at the fuse. I fixed the third brake light, Ive fixed the reverse lights. Ive jumped the sensor on the front of the master cylinder. Is there a way just to bypass all the crap and just make it work? Today I will check power at the steering wheel, the horn works so there is some type of power to the wheel. Will I even be able to check that stuff out while sitting still or do I have to drive over 30mph or something stupid to check it?
My cruise control still doesn’t work. My neighbor claims I have to use the steering wheel from the Powerstroke that the IDI steering wheel wont work with my cruise control. Not sure why that would be they use the same connectors.
So far Ive checked the cruise fuse and for power at the fuse. I fixed the third brake light, Ive fixed the reverse lights. Ive jumped the sensor on the front of the master cylinder. Is there a way just to bypass all the crap and just make it work? Today I will check power at the steering wheel, the horn works so there is some type of power to the wheel. Will I even be able to check that stuff out while sitting still or do I have to drive over 30mph or something stupid to check it?
reptillikus
ate lug
I cant believe the steering wheel doesnt work. It should just be the 3 floating pins, and any 92-97 wheel should work. I dont even think i swapped my wheel when i added cruise, i think i just swapped the horn pad. Its been a very long time since i added it. The cruise uses the same power source as the horn, and the buttons are resistors. Its all PCM control for the powerstroke, but it does need the brake pressure sensor in the master cylinder to work, and all your brake lights need to work. I had a bad sensor in the master cylinder (that didnt look bad) cause mine to not work, same as the 3rd brake light being out. It also didnt work when i put LED taillights in, and i had to add load resistors. There was something weird about the ground; IIRC the ground path is different for a DRW vs a SRW.
If you dont have the wiring diagram lemme know, i have a bunch of different model year EVTMs, i can get pics of it later.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Is this really how this goes? Lower rad support deal. Seems like it should have something over the threads, bit I'm fairly sure I didn't mess with it.
