What's new

7.3 thread continued?

Got more time for a better response. The other FTE member is running the electronic actuator. He seems to have it dialed in and isn't having the problems he originally had. He has 205/80 injectors and a 4r100. Mine is the 3 Stage mechanical, the problem I have is similar but not the exact same. Because it's mechanical when I let off to shift the exhaust back pressure drops. (Actuator runs off ebp) When it drops it slams the veins closed causing a surge situation. Luckily it only does it in low boost/low rpm/low fuel situations. So it's not like it is super hard on the turbo. It is annoying when I'm driving or towing slow. Slow with a heavy load is the worst, shifting at say 1900rpm it will "chhhhtttt---tttt-ttt".

Of course I could open up the veins a little on the low end. It may help but I don't want to give up low end if possible. If I lose much low end I may as well go back to a 363/68/.83 imo. Lesser tuning helps but I like the power of an 80hp file when towing. So next I put together a Blow Off Valve that runs off the idle validation switch and a 10psi Hobbs switch. Made it from a 1-1/2" solenoid valve. Well, it works great but no matter what I can't cure the shift surge. VGT and BOV makes all the magic sounds one could wish for in a diesel. (BTW a bov can be pretty annoying). So far the best way is to drive around it. Don't slow shift, or low rpm shift. If you accelerate slightly spirited it doesn't surge at all. Still kicking around some ideas, a different compressor wheel or a dampener of some sort on the actuator.

Performance is great but some claims don't add up. 1500rpm will easily make 10psi+ boost and around 25psi @ 1900rpm. Overall boost is down from my 363/68/.83 (33psi vs 42psi). The claims of higher than a 1:1 boost/drive ratio are false. This thing makes a lot of back pressure. 33psi boost nets approx 54psi ebp. It will level out on longer pulls to approx 1:1.2. Typical to how VGT turbos run so quite normal IMO. At low RPMs EBP will be almost double of boost pressure. Just don't understand the claims, sales tactic maybe.

The VGT turbo runs the larger 73mm turbine wheel and the non-vgt 363 I run has the smaller 68mm turbine. Put tons of towing miles on the non-vgt it is IMO the best turbo for a mild 7.3. No EGT concerns ever but when towing heavy it will go hours without dipping below 25-30psi @ 2200rpm. It's a boost monster. The VGT tows different, boost levels out instead of climbing. It also takes less throttle input on low rolling grades to maintain speed. The VGT adjusts to keep turbo happy with less input.
 
Here is a modification that opens up a lot of debate. I enjoy trying new modifications and was unable to find anything about this part besides lengthy discussions. Typically 50% says yes it will help, 50% says no it won't. Personally I can't tell you either way because it's not my field of expertise. Decided to try them out myself because there was no real data out there. There were results and things did change. I'll put up the findings in a little bit.


 
For the tests I logged everything in Forscan. Both tests were ran with the same ambient temperature, stretch of road, driving style. Tuning was a custom file from a gentleman who used to work heavily with the PHP Hydra platform. The tune was very strong but would tank ICP pretty easily.

Both stock and FFD Oil log passes are on the same graph. The parameters are, ICP, IPR, FIPW, and RPM.

Testing yielded some results. Not the 3-400psi gain the manufacturer claims but a whopping 104psi!


FFD Log 3.jpg


The intensifier piston in an AD injector is 7:1. 1psi of ICP equals 7psi of injection pressure. 104psi of ICP equals 728psi of injection pressure increase at the nozzle (in theory).
 
The truck is less prone to a P1211 code than it was before. Maybe it makes a little more power somewhere in the rpm range. In theory it should run a little cleaner with better atomization. When I first installed them it made its cold start lope more pronounced with the tune I was running.
 
This does intrigue me, I have a healthy and new CNC Fab Stage 2 HPOP w/ 180/30 FFD injectors and havent seen HPOP pressure be a problem so I thought it was tailored towards people with older tired HPOP's but may be wrong.
 
Interesting how different these trucks can be.

I run 180/0 on Factory 1995 pump with 185k miles. There is only one tune I have that runs hard enough to run them out of oil and I almost never run that tune because It pegs my turbo gauge and scares me.

Are those rail pressures compared to with or without the oil hose cross over mod?

I have hoses that run between heads. 2 of them to help oil flow.
 
Performance is great but some claims don't add up. 1500rpm will easily make 10psi+ boost and around 25psi @ 1900rpm. Overall boost is down from my 363/68/.83 (33psi vs 42psi). The claims of higher than a 1:1 boost/drive ratio are false. This thing makes a lot of back pressure. 33psi boost nets approx 54psi ebp. It will level out on longer pulls to approx 1:1.2. Typical to how VGT turbos run so quite normal IMO. At low RPMs EBP will be almost double of boost pressure. Just don't understand the claims, sales tactic maybe.

The VGT turbo runs the larger 73mm turbine wheel and the non-vgt 363 I run has the smaller 68mm turbine. Put tons of towing miles on the non-vgt it is IMO the best turbo for a mild 7.3. No EGT concerns ever but when towing heavy it will go hours without dipping below 25-30psi @ 2200rpm. It's a boost monster. The VGT tows different, boost levels out instead of climbing. It also takes less throttle input on low rolling grades to maintain speed. The VGT adjusts to keep turbo happy with less input.
I enjoy seeing the constant evolution and change to these old dinosaurs, it does amaze me that people, like KC, are still innovating and investing in 7.3s and we still have people like yourself innovating with VGT's.

I have almost pulled the trigger on the DPS VGT multiple times but keep holding off for exactly what you said, "the claims dont add up." The DPS guy just comes off as a marketing douche that I do not trust. He has NDA's you have to sign to buy his product, his support seems to iffy when you have failures. It just keeps deterring me away.

I currently have my eyes on the new 364SXR, I am not the best at reading turbo maps but from what I can tell and from what I read it flows like a 363 on the bottom end and a 366 on the top end and while it isnt a VGT, the added technology from Borg Warner has basically helped it be more efficient all around.

The other one I am intrigued with is the S362VGT Prius lover is working on at FTE Forums. Is that an OEM VGT from a medium duty application?

Either way I am intrigued.
 
I enjoy seeing the constant evolution and change to these old dinosaurs, it does amaze me that people, like KC, are still innovating and investing in 7.3s and we still have people like yourself innovating with VGT's.

I have almost pulled the trigger on the DPS VGT multiple times but keep holding off for exactly what you said, "the claims dont add up." The DPS guy just comes off as a marketing douche that I do not trust. He has NDA's you have to sign to buy his product, his support seems to iffy when you have failures. It just keeps deterring me away.

I currently have my eyes on the new 364SXR, I am not the best at reading turbo maps but from what I can tell and from what I read it flows like a 363 on the bottom end and a 366 on the top end and while it isnt a VGT, the added technology from Borg Warner has basically helped it be more efficient all around.

The other one I am intrigued with is the S362VGT Prius lover is working on at FTE Forums. Is that an OEM VGT from a medium duty application?

Either way I am intrigued.
Yeah it's off a newer DT466E. Very similar to the DPS. Veins are the same shape and general design but a much smaller turbine wheel, 62mm iirc.
 
Interesting how different these trucks can be.

I run 180/0 on Factory 1995 pump with 185k miles. There is only one tune I have that runs hard enough to run them out of oil and I almost never run that tune because It pegs my turbo gauge and scares me.

Are those rail pressures compared to with or without the oil hose cross over mod?

I have hoses that run between heads. 2 of them to help oil flow.
The truck has the oem style oil lines, no cross over.
 
Anyone have a good source for engine harness diagrams?

I have my oil pressure, coolant temp, and a 12v key on power (hopefully this isn't the gpr trigger :homer:)

I'm going to try and use the stock gpr to power the 12valve grid heater. Online it looks like red wire green stripe is the trigger and a black and pink wire is key on ground? :confused:
 
Anyone know what this is?

It's an auto rad, so I get the cooler nipples, but mine doesn't have this extra nipple that leaks water when I flushed it.

20240907_192957.jpg


Edit: well I pulled it out and it's just 1/8npt so I plugged it...
 
Last edited:
Anyone know what this is?

It's an auto rad, so I get the cooler nipples, but mine doesn't have this extra nipple that leaks water when I flushed it.

20240907_192957.jpg


Edit: well I pulled it out and it's just 1/8npt so I plugged it...
On some of the international trucks they have a quick disconnect fitting on them to be able to suck/fill from the bottom?
 
On some of the international trucks they have a quick disconnect fitting on them to be able to suck/fill from the bottom?

But through a 1/16" hole? :laughing:

Side note. Fuck the guy who designed the drain and crossmember set up on these. What's the point of a nice drain if it points into a u shaped crossmember? :homer:
 
But through a 1/16" hole? :laughing:

Side note. Fuck the guy who designed the drain and crossmember set up on these. What's the point of a nice drain if it points into a u shaped crossmember? :homer:
Not sure man just saying it looks that.
 
But through a 1/16" hole? :laughing:

Side note. Fuck the guy who designed the drain and crossmember set up on these. What's the point of a nice drain if it points into a u shaped crossmember? :homer:
There's a good sized hole under the drsin nipple, least on mine. Drained into pails without fuss.
 
Anyone have a good source for engine harness diagrams?

I have my oil pressure, coolant temp, and a 12v key on power (hopefully this isn't the gpr trigger :homer:)

I'm going to try and use the stock gpr to power the 12valve grid heater. Online it looks like red wire green stripe is the trigger and a black and pink wire is key on ground? :confused:
What year is your truck? I have the 96 + 97 EVTMs, I can snap some pics from the books
 
PXL_20240908_180922170.jpg


This is from the 96 book. Like you said, R/LG is a constant +12v power to the relay. The ground is P/O, and is switched on/off by the PCM. BK/O is the high current side that actually powers the glow plugs (the two BR wires).
 
Yeah the center pad is all it takes for cruise.. i added it to.my 97 a month or two ago... worst part is I sold a parts truck for cheap that had cruise, just i didnt know at the time.

Can bypass the master cy
I cant believe the steering wheel doesnt work. It should just be the 3 floating pins, and any 92-97 wheel should work. I dont even think i swapped my wheel when i added cruise, i think i just swapped the horn pad. Its been a very long time since i added it. The cruise uses the same power source as the horn, and the buttons are resistors. Its all PCM control for the powerstroke, but it does need the brake pressure sensor in the master cylinder to work, and all your brake lights need to work. I had a bad sensor in the master cylinder (that didnt look bad) cause mine to not work, same as the 3rd brake light being out. It also didnt work when i put LED taillights in, and i had to add load resistors. There was something weird about the ground; IIRC the ground path is different for a DRW vs a SRW.

If you dont have the wiring diagram lemme know, i have a bunch of different model year EVTMs, i can get pics of it later.
Linder.

I forgot with wires, but just cut the wires and join them. It's just a secondary "safety" switch to kill cruise if the main brake switch would fail.
Not like you couldn't just hit "off" or worst case throw it in neutral. Mostly for the idiots that would fly off a cliff doing 70 cause "my truck wouldn't stop"

I don't have any resistors on my lights. No 3rd brake light and normal.trailer style LED tail lights. Blinker runs fast but oh well.

The cruise isn't great compared to even a few years newer. Like pulling a hill it'll hit WOT or whatever, crest hill and it takes a good 2-3 seconds for it to back off, so by then doing like 70 when cruise set to 65. Then it backs off 100%, coasts to maybe 62 and near WOT to 65 then settles down.
I use it when making trips to Los Anchorage. Between steering that's like in sawing wood, mirrors a flapping, dog farting, traffic being idiots, it's one less thing to deal with.


And at ~45 it borderline feels like a Korean taxi with them using the throttle like it's an on/off switch vs a steady pressure.

Least in my truck.
 
Last edited:
Can bypass the master cylinder.

I forgot with wires, but just cut the wires and join them.

I don't have any resistors on mine, no 3rd brake light and normal.trailer style LED tail lights. Blinker runs fast but oh well.

'96 book is still at my desk.

Gas is LG/R & BK/Y
Diesel is P/O & BK/Y
 
PXL_20240908_180922170.jpg


This is from the 96 book. Like you said, R/LG is a constant +12v power to the relay. The ground is P/O, and is switched on/off by the PCM. BK/O is the high current side that actually powers the glow plugs (the two BR wires).

Thank you

What's wierd is I couldn't get the pink wire to shut off the ground even after a few minutes.

I'm also not sold on running the grid heater off the stock gpr, but that's probably for another thread.
 
Thank you

What's wierd is I couldn't get the pink wire to shut off the ground even after a few minutes.

I'm also not sold on running the grid heater off the stock gpr, but that's probably for another thread.
How long? The book isn't quite accurate - some of calibrations vary the time and some don't.
My old 96 PCM ran the glow plugs for a different length of time than my 97 PCM did. Both stone cold were 3 minutes, but the 97 would reduce the duration based on engine temp (once fully warmed up they don't cycle at all), whereas the 96 would turn them on for the full duration every time you cycled the key regardless of engine temp.

I don't know how much current the grid heater pulls, but it can't be more than the glow plugs.
 
There's no barb

You could pull the pet cock all the way out and stick a hose on that, but coolant is going everywhere while you're trying to get the hose on.
Weird last time I drained coolant on my last truck that's how I did it. But on a 30 year old truck who knows what aftermarket radiator it had I guess :homer:
 
Top Back Refresh