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7.3 thread continued?

YotaAtieToo

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We had a big 94-97 7.3 thread on pbb, may as well have one here.

I'm coming up on 340k on mine and am really way past due on some maintenance/upgrades.

I have to wring the thing way out when towing. Old ass injectors, leaking up pipes, and inefficient turbo are most likely to blame.

#1 on list: riffraff ceramic coated up pipes

#2 some sort of turbo upgrade/rebuild. I have another stock turbo and a riff raff Billet wheel, I could rebuild it with the wheel and maybe a kc turbine wheel, but the kc300x 63/70 caught my eye. Looks like a pretty nice set up for not that much more than I would have into bastardizing what I have. Any one have any experience with these?

#3 injectors. Most likely just some 160/0% as I don't want to mess with the hpop or fuel system. Last I looked at them (5-6 years ago) I liked the rosewoods? Full force seems good too? No idea really, just want a slight upgrade.

#4 exhaust brake. I did a half ass ebpv switch years ago. It definitely helps, but from what I've read, a real pac brake is much better. No delay, applies more pressure at lower rpms, but also bypasses pressure at higher rpms to avoid engine damage. My ebpv has been acting up lately anyway, it comes on every time I "cold" start it, even though it's 75*+ out. Sometimes it stays in for a few minutes, which is annoying while trying to drive.
 
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Tech Tim

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We're about to turn 370K on our '97 OBS 7.3.

Should've done new injectors 100K or so ago, mileage has been slowly dropping off and definitely smoking more on acceleration. But it still starts up every time and gets the job done.
 

YotaAtieToo

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We're about to turn 370K on our '97 OBS 7.3.

Should've done new injectors 100K or so ago, mileage has been slowly dropping off and definitely smoking more on acceleration. But it still starts up every time and gets the job done.
:laughing:

Same here, I didn't even think about mpg, I kinda stopped calculating a long time ago. But I'm pretty sure I'm mid teens vs high teens.

I got this truck for $5k almost 10 years ago and it has been super reliable for me. I try to stay ahead of things instead of waiting to be left on the side of the road. I was a little nervous pulling that huge grade out of Lewiston the other day (see pics of me towing stuff thread for story)

It's tempting to do the bellowed ceramic up pipes, just to see how much power I'm pissing away, but if all that's coming out, I'm doing the turbo also.

All the parts I just listed in the op are going to be about the same as what I paid for the truck, so I want to make sure I get it right.
 

YotaAtieToo

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At $150.00, that seems like a pretty cheap upgrade.
I guess I worded it poorly.

I'll definitely go for the coating. What I meant was to put the stock turbo back on just to see how much power I was leaking.

I kinda checked them when I did the clutch a few years ago and didn't see much soot. I'm thinking they leak pretty good when they get hot.
 

tracyb

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i'll be watching this thread. my 98 e350 is currently my daily work/ service rig, but with the price of trucks and the fact that i'm better off with a gas work vehicle i'm thinking i'd like to freshen it up and make it the family hauler/ tow rig. the van odo has 230k on it and i put a new tranny in 5k ago.

the only issues it has are white smoke at start up, and one motor mount needs replaced. for the motor i've been thinking about new injectors and maybe a turbo upgrade, but i'm no mechanic,, and really dont know what i dont know.
 

06h3

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I don’t have an OBS but I have heard great things about the KC turbos on 7.3s. If I see a complaint the ford forums usually determine it was a mismatched application. (Too big of a turbo usually) I’ve heard good customer service from KC too.

While I’m not a numbers chasing guy and I really just care about how well it tows and if you can use the power while towing, I just saw an OBS put down 449/853 with 160/30s, KC 66/72, and on a 80HP tune and a 6.0 intercooler at a local truck event. Seems high but cool none the less. It was with the “northwest dyno circuit”
 

SLOWPOKE693

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My 97 only has 160k on it but could use some love. Thing drips fuel from the back of the drivers side head and last time I changed the oil I noticed a bit of oil in the valley. Valve covers are dry so it must be something else.
 

06h3

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In.

My 97 only has 160k on it but could use some love. Thing drips fuel from the back of the drivers side head and last time I changed the oil I noticed a bit of oil in the valley. Valve covers are dry so it must be something else.
I’ve seen the factory steel lines start to leak, if it’s like your describing it’s probably just the vibra lok sleeve.

sometimes the metal line splits due to rubbing on other components but if that happens it isn’t a small leak
 

SLOWPOKE693

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I’ve seen the factory steel lines start to leak, if it’s like your describing it’s probably just the vibra lok sleeve.

sometimes the metal line splits due to rubbing on other components but if that happens it isn’t a small leak

Just slightly drips but it's starting to annoy me
 

YotaAtieToo

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If there is one thing I absolutely hate about these trucks, it's all the shit in the valley. Truck is 22 fucking feet long and you had to cram the fuel filter right there? :homer:

I'd really love to do a fuel bowl delete, and go to universal spin on filters, but really don't want to get into the whole efuel worm hole. Isn't there a way to do this?

As far as power, I do not want a giant upgrade. Just looking for a little more efficiency and not having to spin rpm to pull a grade. If they made 140cc injectors, I'd probably just do that. I really don't want to loose reliability.
 

Tech Tim

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If there is one thing I absolutely hate about these trucks, it's all the shit in the valley. Truck is 22 fucking feet long and you had to cram the fuel filter right there? :homer:

I'd really love to do a fuel bowl delete, and go to universal spin on filters, but really don't want to get into the whole efuel worm hole. Isn't there a way to do this?

I hear you there... what a pain!

Then that cam driven lift pump that is a PITA to get at and if you don't remove it carefully, the little valve drops down inside the engine... :mad3:
 

Levigarrett76

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160's your gonna need at least a SD 17* hpop to keep oil pressure in the higher tunes

Either do a t4 turbo or kc drop in. now is the time to decide before you put $ in to it either direction. stock super duty intercooler will be good bang for buck if you tow heavy. Theres a couple companies that sell a kit. Try to find out without the plastic tanks
 

72Pstroke

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I'd really love to do a fuel bowl delete, and go to universal spin on filters, but really don't want to get into the whole efuel worm hole. Isn't there a way to do this?
I used a Super Duty electric pump on my 7.3, with a universal dual filter setup under the cab. It wasn't bad at all.
Edit: It looks like I need to go to Quote school.
 

YotaAtieToo

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160's your gonna need at least a SD 17* hpop to keep oil pressure in the higher tunes

Either do a t4 turbo or kc drop in. now is the time to decide before you put $ in to it either direction. stock super duty intercooler will be good bang for buck if you tow heavy. Theres a couple companies that sell a kit. Try to find out without the plastic tanks
Honesty, I'd be fine with just having the tuner leave the dumb tunes off, keep me from breaking stuff.

There seems to be a lot of debate on that though. I've never even had a guage on my hpop.

Did a 6.0 i/c about 8 years ago, pretty much mandatory if you tow in the mountains, no matter how stock the truck is. I recently had an oops and smashed the stock i/c, so it got replaced with a full aluminum one.

Egt's are very manageable, but 10 psi at 2700 rpm with a load is weak.
 

YotaAtieToo

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It might be a little higher than that at that rpm, but not much. You really have to wring it out in 4th on a hill to hit 20.

Also, you loose a little bit of boost with an intercooler. Is yours bone stock?

I think most of my issue is just wear and lake of love. I got it at 200k and I really believe most everything was original. I have used the shit out of it for another 140k without really doing much.

I'd probably be fine with a rebuilt stock turbo, Billet wheel and maybe the smaller van turbine housing, but the cost get close to the KC and I don't have to worry about fucking up the rebuild :laughing:
 

Levigarrett76

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Thats good news on the i/c. I think my 97 made like 16 psi stock. your def probably losing some at the up pipes.
I've had great luck with china s/s up pipe4s on s/d's.
Later on I had 150's on the stock hpop in that truck and i could get it below 2000 psi pretty easy in the hotter tunes.

Find a used sd 17* hpop for 150-$300
Put in 160's
put in drop in kc turbo. You will probably double your towing power.

What tunes are you running?

you could also gain about as much from finding a used SD turbo, pedestal, spyder and plenums. Put a kc drop in balanced assembly with rebuild and sxe turbine and be able to clean up anything those 160's can throw at it.

Later if you get a wild hair buy a new bosch Super duty efuel pump (like $80). Plumb up fuel system like stated above and get rid of fuel bowl and mech fuel pump.

While i was in there id replace the orings on all the hpo fittings on the heads, probably the hpop lines if they haven't been touched as PM
 

YotaAtieToo

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It's just a canned ts6, I wasn't going to waste money on custom tunes for stock 90cc's and a 5spd.
 

06h3

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I personally know a few guys running 40 lbs of boost on stock head bolts and a many people in real life but hundreds of people on the inter webs with stock head bolts and 30 lbs of boost with no issue for hundreds of thousands of miles.
I’d say getting boost up to 25-28 lbs will greatly improve performance and shouldn’t give you reliability issues.

ill hit 40 lbs of boost but usually have 30lbs sustained at 2500 rpm going up grades towing...that is with head studs but I never planned on head studs. I just had a snowball mess as you know. I think even leaving stock injectors you will see a nice gain with doubling your boost and making it easy to hit 25-28 psi.
 

YotaAtieToo

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I personally know a few guys running 40 lbs of boost on stock head bolts and a many people in real life but hundreds of people on the inter webs with stock head bolts and 30 lbs of boost with no issue for hundreds of thousands of miles.
I’d say getting boost up to 25-28 lbs will greatly improve performance and shouldn’t give you reliability issues.

ill hit 40 lbs of boost but usually have 30lbs sustained at 2500 rpm going up grades towing...that is with head studs but I never planned on head studs. I just had a snowball mess as you know. I think even leaving stock injectors you will see a nice gain with doubling your boost and making it easy to hit 25-28 psi.

I'm not chasing big boost by any means. Although the little 12v I had for a bit hit like 53 before I adjusted the waste gate down, that was fun :laughing:

Stock 97 injectors are pretty pitiful, even compared to 99-03. Mine a 90cc, iirc most SD are 120, and I think 03 was 130?

I've even contemplated getting new injectors for an 03, and then custom tunes for split shots, but I'm. Not even sure if that works that way. :laughing:
 

1Sinner

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I'm running a 2001 within s300x kc, 160/30s, 4 line fuel feed, hpop crossovers, billet plenums, bellowed up pipes, 6.0 intercooler, mishimoto trans cooler and a 4" turbo back. Hydra tuner and I forget who's tunes (whoever kc recommended about a year and half ago). Truck runs great, pulls my fully loaded weekend warrior (at 14-15k) well. I still need to drop in the 4.30 gears I have on my shelf (currently on 35s and 3.73s with a zf-6)

The only thing I can't stand is that the pedal is so sensitive (even on the tow tunes) it makes it hard not to be jerky with a Manual during take offs and up shifts. Especially unloaded.

Glad to hear people regularly hit 30psi with no issues. I know I've pegged my boost gauge (35psi+) a couple times and it makes me uncomfortable. Those with manuals and lots of work, who's tunes seem to run the best or a simple way to decrease pedal sensitivity? What egts fully loaded and climbing are you guys seeing?
 

06h3

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I'm running a 2001 within s300x kc, 160/30s, 4 line fuel feed, hpop crossovers, billet plenums, bellowed up pipes, 6.0 intercooler, mishimoto trans cooler and a 4" turbo back. Hydra tuner and I forget who's tunes (whoever kc recommended about a year and half ago). Truck runs great, pulls my fully loaded weekend warrior (at 14-15k) well. I still need to drop in the 4.30 gears I have on my shelf (currently on 35s and 3.73s with a zf-6)

The only thing I can't stand is that the pedal is so sensitive (even on the tow tunes) it makes it hard not to be jerky with a Manual during take offs and up shifts. Especially unloaded.

Glad to hear people regularly hit 30psi with no issues. I know I've pegged my boost gauge (35psi+) a couple times and it makes me uncomfortable. Those with manuals and lots of work, who's tunes seem to run the best or a simple way to decrease pedal sensitivity? What egts fully loaded and climbing are you guys seeing?
I have custom tunes from both 1023 diesel and AA tuning.

1023 tunes feels like I have a soft, linear, and I don’t want to say it as a negative, but almost a dead pedal even in hot tunes. AA design tunes feel like I mash the pedal even if I just tap it in a 40 hp tow tune. On an auto I really like the AA tunes but can see it being annoying on a manual.
 

1Sinner

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I have custom tunes from both 1023 diesel and AA tuning.

1023 tunes feels like I have a soft, linear, and I don’t want to say it as a negative, but almost a dead pedal even in hot tunes.

Thats basically what I want in a tow tune and economy tune. Hot tunes need a quick pedal response. I'll reach out to them.
 

brocolocoli

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Whats everyone running for a auto trans? My obs e4od is getting tired and im looking at getting something better than stock once i get injectors put in.
 
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