What's new
By:
Filters

7.3 thread continued?

reptillikus said:
I cant believe the steering wheel doesnt work. It should just be the 3 floating pins, and any 92-97 wheel should work. I dont even think i swapped my wheel when i added cruise, i think i just swapped the horn pad. Its been a very long time since i added it. The cruise uses the same power source as the horn, and the buttons are resistors. Its all PCM control for the powerstroke, but it does need the brake pressure sensor in the master cylinder to work, and all your brake lights need to work. I had a bad sensor in the master cylinder (that didnt look bad) cause mine to not work, same as the 3rd brake light being out. It also didnt work when i put LED taillights in, and i had to add load resistors. There was something weird about the ground; IIRC the ground path is different for a DRW vs a SRW.

If you dont have the wiring diagram lemme know, i have a bunch of different model year EVTMs, i can get pics of it later.
Click to expand...
Thank you. I looked at some online that showed what each buttons resistance should be. I will try my ohmmeter on the steering wheel.
 
96 EVTM. attaching as full res pics the diesel diagrams. The Troubleshooting page is attached at well because it has the resistance values for the buttons, however some of it doesn't apply since it includes the servo that the gas engines use
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20230610_163511347.jpg
    PXL_20230610_163511347.jpg
    2.1 MB · Views: 18
  • PXL_20230610_163527543.jpg
    PXL_20230610_163527543.jpg
    1.9 MB · Views: 10
  • PXL_20230610_163539541.jpg
    PXL_20230610_163539541.jpg
    2.1 MB · Views: 13
  • PXL_20230610_163620912.jpg
    PXL_20230610_163620912.jpg
    2 MB · Views: 15
KungFooMASTA
It just occurred to me that your truck is a 5spd.

Does your speed/odo work properly?
The PSOM serves two purposes. #1, it passes the analog speed signal thru to the speedometer. #2 it creates the digital signal that the PCM needs for the automatic transmission to shift, and for the cruise control to work. It's possible for a PSOM to fail and not output the digital signal, but the speedometer will still function correctly. (This exact scenario happened to me ~2 years ago). If you haven't already, I would recommend driving around while watching the live data for the VSS and see if the PCM knows how fast you are going. In my case I knew something was wrong because every time the PCM lost the speed signal, the E4OD would drop into N :eek:
 
reptillikus said:
KungFooMASTA
It just occurred to me that your truck is a 5spd.

Does your speed/odo work properly?
The PSOM serves two purposes. #1, it passes the analog speed signal thru to the speedometer. #2 it creates the digital signal that the PCM needs for the automatic transmission to shift, and for the cruise control to work. It's possible for a PSOM to fail and not output the digital signal, but the speedometer will still function correctly. (This exact scenario happened to me ~2 years ago). If you haven't already, I would recommend driving around while watching the live data for the VSS and see if the PCM knows how fast you are going. In my case I knew something was wrong because every time the PCM lost the speed signal, the E4OD would drop into N :eek:
Click to expand...
My speedometer works correctly except for being off since its on 35s.

I took the steering wheel pad off and got the buttons working. I had to take them all apart and bend the tiny tabs under the bendy metal piece. The only one working to begin with was the on button. My screen on my ohm meter is broke so I cant tell what the resistance is just that it comes up something when it sees anything. It could still be the wrong resistance. I went for a drive just knowing it would work and nope still nothing.

Now i need to find the speed control amplifier and get a properly working ohm meter.
 
I would definitely verify the resistance of the buttons.


Technically there is no amplifier, its part of the PSOM's function.

The PSOM (Programmable Speedometer Odometer Module) is the black box on the back of your speedometer. You have to disassemble the cluster to get to it. The signal from the VSS in the rear diff goes right to the PSOM, and then from there to the PCM. The only exception is the 4WABS trucks; in those it goes from the VSS to the 4WABS ecu, and then to the PSOM.
Theres a few different generations of them, but they all function the same. The F6 board is the best version as it has the cleanest signal. The older ones were known for causing flutter on the actual speedometer gauge (there was a TSB for it)

KIMG3514.jpg


F5 revision on left, F6 revision on the right. There are several others as well. Somewhere i have the diagram for the F5 board, id have to look for it again.
 
reptillikus said:
I would definitely verify the resistance of the buttons.


Technically there is no amplifier, its part of the PSOM's function.

The PSOM (Programmable Speedometer Odometer Module) is the black box on the back of your speedometer. You have to disassemble the cluster to get to it. The signal from the VSS in the rear diff goes right to the PSOM, and then from there to the PCM. The only exception is the 4WABS trucks; in those it goes from the VSS to the 4WABS ecu, and then to the PSOM.
Theres a few different generations of them, but they all function the same. The F6 board is the best version as it has the cleanest signal. The older ones were known for causing flutter on the actual speedometer gauge (there was a TSB for it)

KIMG3514.jpg


F5 revision on left, F6 revision on the right. There are several others as well. Somewhere i have the diagram for the F5 board, id have to look for it again.
Click to expand...

Ok so where do i need to be measuring the ohms then? I just measured right off the harness out of the buttons. Where it plugs into the wheel with 3 pins. One black one light blue and one yellow. Where I measured is only good for my buttons. I need to know the clock spring is working too.

My speedometer is steady and does not ever flutter at all.
 
It looks like pcm pin 61 is the input from the cruise buttons. So I'd check there, and see if the PCM is getting power when you press any of the cruise buttons.

If that works, check for power at pin 92. That's the input from the BOO (brake on/off switch). The switch is open until you press on the brake.

PXL_20230612_150754329.jpg


If those are good, check pin 29 for the signal for the clutch pedal position sensor. Then check pin 31 for the signal from the brake pressure sensor

PXL_20230612_151145967.jpg


If all 4 of those are good then you have to assume that the psom is not outputting the mph to the PCM. The easiest way to check that, is to hook up a scanner and watch the live data for the VSS while driving.
 
It is entirely possible for the PSOM to fail, and the speedometer still work. I had a PSOM fail a couple years ago. The speedometer still worked just fine, but the live data for the VSS said 0mph even tho, in this pic, I'm doing close to 70mph.

KIMG3492.JPG


Being a manual you don't need the digital speed signal from the PSOM. Unless of course you want to use the cruise control. I need it for the E4OD to shift, so when mine failed the transmission stopped shifting. That's why I recommend checking the live data to make sure the PCM is getting any input from the VSS at all, even if it's off by a few mph. Once you know the PSOM is good, you can recalibrate it for the 35s.
 
Anyone have any idea why my key on power would be weak?

Trying to wire up one of like 5 wires for the 12v swap and any place I have key on power is super weak like 8-9 volts :confused:

Also, if anyone has a 96-97 engine harness, I could use it, I cannot find mine and think I may have sold it with the engine :homer:

Mostly would just need the other side of this plug.
20230625_102535.jpg
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Anyone have any idea why my key on power would be weak?

Trying to wire up one of like 5 wires for the 12v swap and any place I have key on power is super weak like 8-9 volts :confused:

Also, if anyone has a 96-97 engine harness, I could use it, I cannot find mine and think I may have sold it with the engine :homer:

Mostly would just need the other side of this plug.
20230625_102535.jpg
Click to expand...
I got one off a 97. Manual trans if that makes a difference
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Anyone have any idea why my key on power would be weak?

Trying to wire up one of like 5 wires for the 12v swap and any place I have key on power is super weak like 8-9 volts :confused:

Also, if anyone has a 96-97 engine harness, I could use it, I cannot find mine and think I may have sold it with the engine :homer:

Mostly would just need the other side of this plug.
20230625_102535.jpg
Click to expand...
I have one off a 96. Not in perfect shape but its usable. Manual trans.
 
Key on would energize the glow plugs. If you unplug the glow plug relay do you still have low voltage with key on?
 
KungFooMASTA said:
I have one off a 96. Not in perfect shape but its usable. Manual trans.
Click to expand...

I'd be fine with just the engine side of the plug, I only need it for water temp, oil pressure, and glow plug activation.

I'm tempted to just chop the plug off, but thought it would be cleaner to keep it intact.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Like I said, I don't even have the engine harness currently :laughing::flipoff2:

No glow plugs or now grid heater hooked up.
Click to expand...

:homer:
ok so im a dumbass and missed that.

So youve got +12v at the batteries, and im assuming you verified the batteries are good. Assuming you have +12v to the multifunction switch on the column, did you verify power in & out of the switch? I would start with all fuses & relays unplugged and go from there.
 
reptillikus said:
:homer:
ok so im a dumbass and missed that.

So youve got +12v at the batteries, and im assuming you verified the batteries are good. Assuming you have +12v to the multifunction switch on the column, did you verify power in & out of the switch? I would start with all fuses & relays unplugged and go from there.
Click to expand...

I'm like 12.4v at the batteries, have not dove into it further.

In case you missed, I'm in the process of swapping a 12 valve. So I need key on power for the fuel shut off solenoid and to excite the alternator. Neither are happy with the low voltage. Obviously the mechanical engine is not pulling any draw, so I'm confused why it would be that low.
 
The only reason I bring up fuses is because I don't know what systems you still have in place, but things like the stereo, or the RABS ecu have power with the key on. So you could have a short in one of the chassis or dash circuits. So both fuse boxes is probably where I'd start.
 
reptillikus said:
The only reason I bring up fuses is because I don't know what systems you still have in place, but things like the stereo, or the RABS ecu have power with the key on. So you could have a short in one of the chassis or dash circuits. So both fuse boxes is probably where I'd start.
Click to expand...

You're saying pull every single fuse and put them back in one by one? Makes sense.
 
I checked the resistance at the pins to the pcm. The problem is probably partly because Im using a Chi-com harbor freight multimeter. But I am getting very inconsistent numbers. Mostly way high. I sometimes have to hit the button 10-20 times before it comes up with a number within range. Sometimes there is no number at all sometimes it is way high. This goes for all the buttons. It does not matter what direction the steering wheel is it does the same.

I wish I had a Fluke meter to know if it is reading right.

Maybe if I am driving and hit the right number it will work. Like playing the lotto. :flipoff2:
 
Installed a DPS VGT on my 2001 F350 this past year with an S363sxe. It spools great and awesome top end. My truck has 4.30 gears, zf6 with a SB ceramic clutch and 80hp php tuning. Have about 6000miles and have towed 12.5k a few times. It is a little quirky when it comes to shifting, likes to surge on slow shifts. It is likely due to having the vgt turned tight as possible.
20230329_122321.jpg
20230404_175016.jpg
 
Last edited:
I have been on the fence on purchasing one. Are you on FTE? Some guys have had success, others haven’t.

I have the T4 kit with a 364.5SXE
 
06h3 said:
I have been on the fence on purchasing one. Are you on FTE? Some guys have had success, others haven’t.

I have the T4 kit with a 364.5SXE
Click to expand...

I like it a lot besides some little quirks, it performs very well for me. Before this I ran a 363/68/.83 which I was very pleased with but made a lot of boost.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh