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7.3 thread continued?

I finally got my 96 on the road but have lots of little things to fix.

What kind of obd2 reader is good for these? Mine says it is not compatible or something when I hook it up. It has a cel that comes on sometimes and it runs a little rougher till it goes off on its own again.

I want to put a new underhood wire harness on it. What company is best for this? It has some bare wires in spots and some mice chewed on some wires.

Other things to fix.

It has an oil leak on the drivers side towards the front from some log looking thing under the exhaust manifold.

The hvac does not work at all. I have checked the fuse but that is as far as I have gone.

Passenger door the window does not work.

Lockout hubs need fixed on.

Neither of the power locks work.

Cruise control does not work.

Bodywork. It was driven by lots of drunk people in its past and the body shows it.


When I got it it had massive death wobble at 40mph. Yesterday I replaced the tie rod and drag link with one off an axle I had lay behind my shed and it fixed that. I drove it 75 down the highway and it did fine.
 
KungFooMASTA said:
I finally got my 96 on the road but have lots of little things to fix.

1. What kind of obd2 reader is good for these? Mine says it is not compatible or something when I hook it up. It has a cel that comes on sometimes and it runs a little rougher till it goes off on its own again.

2. I want to put a new underhood wire harness on it. What company is best for this? It has some bare wires in spots and some mice chewed on some wires.

Other things to fix.

3. It has an oil leak on the drivers side towards the front from some log looking thing under the exhaust manifold.

4. The hvac does not work at all. I have checked the fuse but that is as far as I have gone.

5. Passenger door the window does not work.

Lockout hubs need fixed on.

Neither of the power locks work.

Cruise control does not work.

Bodywork. It was driven by lots of drunk people in its past and the body shows it.


When I got it it had massive death wobble at 40mph. Yesterday I replaced the tie rod and drag link with one off an axle I had lay behind my shed and it fixed that. I drove it 75 down the highway and it did fine.
Click to expand...
1. Regular code readers from auto parts stores don't work on these. Supposedly a cheap bluetooth ODB2 adapter and the Torque app on your phone works well and gives some diagnostic tests that can be ran. I have an old gameboy looking Edge programmer that has code reading, with my Hydra chip its only a code reader anymore.
2. Complete Performance or RiffRaff Diesel are good vendors to check for the harness... will be $$$ though, Tasca parts is also good for OEM for stuff.
3. Thats the oil cooler, needs rebuilt or replaced depending on corrosion damage to the end caps. If you can get it apart then the orings can be changed out. Again RiffRaff diesel can get you sorted on parts.
4. HVAC being vents not switching or nothing works (blower motor)?
5. If electric, motor or switch could be junk
Cruise control- Check your brake fluid level, probably not the issue but I chased that for a couple days before I added fluid and tada it started working again. Also check the 3rd brake light bulb on the back of the cab its tied in there as well.

Rest of them you'll figure out.
 
cchambers13 said:
1. Regular code readers from auto parts stores don't work on these. Supposedly a cheap bluetooth ODB2 adapter and the Torque app on your phone works well and gives some diagnostic tests that can be ran. I have an old gameboy looking Edge programmer that has code reading, with my Hydra chip its only a code reader anymore.
2. Complete Performance or RiffRaff Diesel are good vendors to check for the harness... will be $$$ though, Tasca parts is also good for OEM for stuff.
3. Thats the oil cooler, needs rebuilt or replaced depending on corrosion damage to the end caps. If you can get it apart then the orings can be changed out. Again RiffRaff diesel can get you sorted on parts.
4. HVAC being vents not switching or nothing works (blower motor)?
5. If electric, motor or switch could be junk
Cruise control- Check your brake fluid level, probably not the issue but I chased that for a couple days before I added fluid and tada it started working again. Also check the 3rd brake light bulb on the back of the cab its tied in there as well.

Rest of them you'll figure out.
Click to expand...
Thank you. I have one of those cheap obd readers but it wont work on my iphone. I will see if I can get it to connect to my tablet or gf phone.

It is leaking from the end if that. Hopefully it is just the orings.

Hvac nothing works at all. No blower, i dont hear it switching vents nothing.

This thing has a kingpin 87-91 axle swapped in. It is an f250. Maybe when it was swapped none of the speed sensor or abs stuff was swapped? The abs light goes on when I start it and goes off when it is running though. Thanks for the other things to chase.
 
cchambers13 is basically spot on on everything.

i will add to his comment about cruise control - if you havent done the recall for the brake pressure sensor in the master cylinder do it - when they inevitably fail the brake fluid gets introduced to the 12v in the sensor. The diesel trucks only get power to that sensor with the key on, but for some reason the gas engines have power to that sensor all the time, and it can start a fire when it fails.


KungFooMASTA said:
Thank you. I have one of those cheap obd readers but it wont work on my iphone. I will see if I can get it to connect to my tablet or gf phone.

It is leaking from the end if that. Hopefully it is just the orings.

Hvac nothing works at all. No blower, i dont hear it switching vents nothing.

This thing has a kingpin 87-91 axle swapped in. It is an f250. Maybe when it was swapped none of the speed sensor or abs stuff was swapped? The abs light goes on when I start it and goes off when it is running though. Thanks for the other things to chase.
Click to expand...

96 has the updated HVAC control panel (2 cables instead of 1) and rarely breaks. The thermistor in the heater box (under the hood) can cause the blower motor to not work if it has failed. Sometimes they melt the plug too so check that.

Theres no wheel sensors in the front of a 92-97 F250 or F350 as they are RABS. Only the half ton trucks got the 4WABS in that generation. If you think youre having a problem with the ABS system then pull & inspect the VSS in the rear diff.

So the RABS ECU is a separate module behind the glovebox. You can unplug it to kill the entire ABS system, and it wont throw codes. The RABS ecu stores codes (and you can plug in to it to see if you have any) but it does not turn on the ABS light, it tells the PCM to. So if theres a short in your ABS system thats an easy way to test it. However, if you still have an issue with it randomly running bad while the ABS light is on (with the RABS ECU unplugged), then id suspect the PCM is failing.


The PCM failed in mine many years ago. Id be drving along and all of a sudden a bunch of lights would come on on the dash and it would run like shit, or stall and not restart. Wait a half hour and it would start and run fine. Or, it would just snap back to life and youd cruise along for the rest of your trip with no issues. Turns out the outer seal for the PCM connector was missing and rain water got into the PCM. The corner of the board was corroded and one of the SCRs was damaged.
 
Squamch said:
Obdlink MX+ is what I have for a reader. With that and forescan lite it works well.
Click to expand...
If the bluetooth one i have does not work I will look into it.
reptillikus said:
cchambers13 is basically spot on on everything.

i will add to his comment about cruise control - if you havent done the recall for the brake pressure sensor in the master cylinder do it - when they inevitably fail the brake fluid gets introduced to the 12v in the sensor. The diesel trucks only get power to that sensor with the key on, but for some reason the gas engines have power to that sensor all the time, and it can start a fire when it fails.




96 has the updated HVAC control panel (2 cables instead of 1) and rarely breaks. The thermistor in the heater box (under the hood) can cause the blower motor to not work if it has failed. Sometimes they melt the plug too so check that.

Theres no wheel sensors in the front of a 92-97 F250 or F350 as they are RABS. Only the half ton trucks got the 4WABS in that generation. If you think youre having a problem with the ABS system then pull & inspect the VSS in the rear diff.

So the RABS ECU is a separate module behind the glovebox. You can unplug it to kill the entire ABS system, and it wont throw codes. The RABS ecu stores codes (and you can plug in to it to see if you have any) but it does not turn on the ABS light, it tells the PCM to. So if theres a short in your ABS system thats an easy way to test it. However, if you still have an issue with it randomly running bad while the ABS light is on (with the RABS ECU unplugged), then id suspect the PCM is failing.


The PCM failed in mine many years ago. Id be drving along and all of a sudden a bunch of lights would come on on the dash and it would run like shit, or stall and not restart. Wait a half hour and it would start and run fine. Or, it would just snap back to life and youd cruise along for the rest of your trip with no issues. Turns out the outer seal for the PCM connector was missing and rain water got into the PCM. The corner of the board was corroded and one of the SCRs was damaged.
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I will ask my friend at a Ford dealer to look into if it had the recall done.

The rabs only is good to know. I would assume mine is fine since the light goes on with key on engine off then shuts off once it starts.

Only the cel comes on sometimes while it is running. Its pretty random. Sometimes it does not come on at all. There are some sensors in the glovebox and door panel. I will have to see what they are. Im not sure if they are spares or bad ones or what they even are.

Thank you everyone for helping me. I dont know much about Powerstrokes yet.
 
The replacement brake sensor comes with a pigtail with a fusible link built into it. Its maybe 3" long? I think as long as you buy the motorcraft sensor it comes with the link. I can get a pic of mine later.

I carry a spare crank sensor in my glovebox because it's the only sensor on the engine where if it fails the engine will stall and not restart.
 
I drove it today and picked up the kids from daycare then I went and filled it with fuel and doubled its value.

As soon as I got home my son got out and said its leaking something everywhere. I guess the thermostat housing gasket decided to give up the ghost.

I have found billet replacement but it says 99 and up. I saw a deal from dorman that says its a fix kit that is just a thicker metal piece that goes over the housing. I am guessing this is a common issue with so many aftermarket options. I think I will get the dorman kit and new neck just in case. What temp thermostat is factory?
 
KungFooMASTA said:
I drove it today and picked up the kids from daycare then I went and filled it with fuel and doubled its value.

As soon as I got home my son got out and said its leaking something everywhere. I guess the thermostat housing gasket decided to give up the ghost.

I have found billet replacement but it says 99 and up. I saw a deal from dorman that says its a fix kit that is just a thicker metal piece that goes over the housing. I am guessing this is a common issue with so many aftermarket options. I think I will get the dorman kit and new neck just in case. What temp thermostat is factory?
Click to expand...
You can use the 99+ housing as long as you also get the 99+ upper radiator hose. Riffraff diesel will have a stock replacement for the 96.

Factory thermostat is 195 degrees but you may want to consider a 203 degree tstat from diesel site. Says why on their page.

www.dieselsite.com

1996-2003 Ford 7.3L DIESELSITE 203* Thermostat

203° 1996 (Engine Serial #201681)-2003 7.3L Powerstroke Thermostat
www.dieselsite.com
 
Cir20 said:
You can use the 99+ housing as long as you also get the 99+ upper radiator hose. Riffraff diesel will have a stock replacement for the 96.

Factory thermostat is 195 degrees but you may want to consider a 203 degree tstat from diesel site. Says why on their page.

www.dieselsite.com

1996-2003 Ford 7.3L DIESELSITE 203* Thermostat

203° 1996 (Engine Serial #201681)-2003 7.3L Powerstroke Thermostat
www.dieselsite.com
Click to expand...
I did the 203 Tstat with my cooling overhaul... its got hot heat now! But all the other "benefits" kinda meh at best. More important is getting the right coolant in. OBS trucks have different sealant on the injector cups so the ELC stuff can't be used. Gotta stick with conventional HD with SCAs like Fleetcharge. If you're taking coolant down and flushing go ahead and do the water pump, IMO the coolant filters are overrated if you just flush coolant like you're supposed to and keep up on SCA additive.
 
Ditto on doing the coolant flush.

The hotter thermostats supposedly give better mpg, but of course if you are towing heavy all the time that extra 5 degrees or so is huge.
 
cchambers13 said:
I did the 203 Tstat with my cooling overhaul... its got hot heat now! But all the other "benefits" kinda meh at best. More important is getting the right coolant in. OBS trucks have different sealant on the injector cups so the ELC stuff can't be used. Gotta stick with conventional HD with SCAs like Fleetcharge. If you're taking coolant down and flushing go ahead and do the water pump, IMO the coolant filters are overrated if you just flush coolant like you're supposed to and keep up on SCA additive.
Click to expand...
I'd run the filter but only to catch the typical "30yo iron block" rust particles and keep them from piling up in the bottom few rows of the heater core and radiator.
 
I ordered a new thermostat housing, seal, oil cooler seals and gasket, 2 cps’, and the ondlink mx+.

I will order the new 203 tstat, and waterpump. Belts and hoses.

I will probably get a set of glowplugs and wire harness after all that.
 
If youre not aware, only buy the OEM UVCH and valve cover gasket, the Dormans are cheap junk.

Also, the Superduty uses an updated style that uses one plug thru the valve cover gasket instead of two, and they dont burn the pins for the glowplugs like the OBS ones do. You can use them but of course youll have to rewire the truck to do so.
 
reptillikus said:
If youre not aware, only buy the OEM UVCH and valve cover gasket, the Dormans are cheap junk.

Also, the Superduty uses an updated style that uses one plug thru the valve cover gasket instead of two, and they dont burn the pins for the glowplugs like the OBS ones do. You can use them but of course youll have to rewire the truck to do so.
Click to expand...
What is UVCH?
 
Ok, what year is the top radiator hose that doesn't go through the fucking fan belt?
 
Through the belt??? My 96 doesnt do that:

upper_rad_hose.jpg


20 years ive owned the truck, never changed it. Im going to guess its this one:

 
bdkw1 said:
100$? Fuck that, found a gates for 15$.

Thanks guys!
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Awesome. I didn't even see the price! Holy shit! I was just linking where I found the info. My truck is a 97 with the old style thermostat housing so yeah... wasn't shopping.
 
Having some issues with my 96 7.3 stalling when coasting/coming to a stop.It sat for 6 months and drove fine for an hour or so then started this stalling shit. Fresh fuel filter & fuel. Rebuilt IPR first did nothing so i replaced it and ICP with OEM motorcraft and no change. Fuel pressure is 55psi at idle. Thinking maybe CPS? I replaced cps a while back for stalling issues but it would do it randomly at any rpm then.

Only diagnostic tool i have for it is torque/bt obd2 scanner and that leaves much to be desired.
 
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