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7.3 Powerstroke rebuild

Tell_Sackett

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Well with 360k on the odometer and leaking a gallon of oil every couple days, plus a fuel leak and small coolant leak, it's finally time to pull the engine and freshen her up. After pricing everything out and not having any plans to get rid of a pre smog truck in California I decided if I'm pulling the engine I might as well go all the way and tear it down for a rebuild.

So far the plan is a factory overhaul kit from Riff Raff, swamps stage 2 cam, swamps stage one valve springs and terminator t500 HPOP. I need to do something with the turbo but haven't decided what yet. Right now I'm going back and forth between rebuilding with a wicked wheel, rebuild with Riff Raff's wheel or just ordering a center section from somewhere. While everything is on the bench I'll also go through the fuel bowl, new lines to the back of the head, (one of the leaks,) and clean up and carefully inspect the wiring harness. Probably drop a south bend clutch in too since it's had diesel and oil leaking on it since I swapped it around 30k miles ago.

Current mods are swamps tow/haul injectors, bellowed up pipes and TS6 chip with swamps tunes, 6673? Filter and 3.5" downpipe to 4" exhaust.
 
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Don't have many pictures, but I'll try to get some next chance I get to work on it. So far I have the radiator, belt drive accessories, mounting plates, radiator, and turbo out. Also disconnected driveshafts and dropped the transfer case. Hopefully going to get the trans out in the next few days if I get a free minute. I want to drop the drivetrain to get everything cleaned up from all the oil anyway and it looks a lot easier to do it in that order.
 

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Usually guys pull the cab to do these. Sucks to not have a lift to do it. I have 195,000 on mine and plan on doing the same as you when it’s time. Pre smog trucks are in high demand.
 
I recently rebuilt my 275K mile 7.3, I am very very happy with the results. The 99-up have a removable brace over the radiator that makes removing the radiator and engine much easier.
I did mine with a truck mounted crane but didn't touch the cab.
 
Lifting the cab was nearly unheard of until the 99+ trucks. Works well on E-series too (whole body).

After what i've gone through with tired 7.3PSDs, the only thing I could put back in is an inline with mechanical injection.
 
Wtf, 360k is just getting broke in! :flipoff2:

Mines at 337k, 90% sure it's still on stock injectors. Just did a 900 mile trip grossing 21k with no issues, so she's still got some kick left. I would like to do some maintenance/upgrades to the turbo. I have a riffraff wheel and was going to just throw that in, but I don't realize the turbo needs to come off. If I do that, I may as well rebuild, if I do that, I may as well do a beans D66 and ceramic up pipes, if I do that, maybe just go T4? :laughing: no wonder it's still just getting used and neglected.
 
Usually guys pull the cab to do these. Sucks to not have a lift to do it. I have 195,000 on mine and plan on doing the same as you when it’s time. Pre smog trucks are in high demand.
Honestly not much has to happen under the truck. Sheet of 1 ¹/⁸ will work for that. Luckily I have a piece I bought years ago just for this or I'd end up over budget...

I recently rebuilt my 275K mile 7.3, I am very very happy with the results. The 99-up have a removable brace over the radiator that makes removing the radiator and engine much easier.
I did mine with a truck mounted crane but didn't touch the cab.
I'll pull the hood and it should come right out. Already cleared it will the boss to bring the service truck home this weekend and use the crane.

Wtf, 360k is just getting broke in! :flipoff2:

Mines at 337k, 90% sure it's still on stock injectors. Just did a 900 mile trip grossing 21k with no issues, so she's still got some kick left. I would like to do some maintenance/upgrades to the turbo. I have a riffraff wheel and was going to just throw that in, but I don't realize the turbo needs to come off. If I do that, I may as well rebuild, if I do that, I may as well do a beans D66 and ceramic up pipes, if I do that, maybe just go T4? :laughing: no wonder it's still just getting used and neglected.
Pretty much why I'm rebuilding it. It pulls strong, very little smoke, sits for weeks and fires with minimal cranking, but since it has to come out for the oil pan gasket and stuff I can't justify that amount of work and not go all the way. Especially since I have no plans to get rid of this truck.




No progress today. Stopped by O'Reilly's and swapped the fan clutch wrench out since I didn't read and bought the wrong one. Trying to get parts lists together and start getting stuff rolling in.
 
Yep, no issues with the radiator, hood and turbo removed.

Air hammer on the fan clutch nut works very well.
 
Yep, no issues with the radiator, hood and turbo removed.

Air hammer on the fan clutch nut works very well.
Thought about it. I've fought those nuts enough times that I decided it's finally time to get the damn tool though
 
Well with 360k on the odometer and leaking a gallon of oil every couple days, plus a fuel leak and small coolant leak, it's finally time to pull the engine and freshen her up. After pricing everything out and not having any plans to get rid of a pre smog truck in California I decided if I'm pulling the engine I might as well go all the way and tear it down for a rebuild.

So far the plan is a factory overhaul kit from Riff Raff, swamps stage 2 cam, swamps stage one valve springs and terminator t500 HPOP. I need to do something with the turbo but haven't decided what yet. Right now I'm going back and forth between rebuilding with a wicked wheel, rebuild with Riff Raff's wheel or just ordering a center section from somewhere. While everything is on the bench I'll also go through the fuel bowl, new lines to the back of the head, (one of the leaks,) and clean up and carefully inspect the wiring harness. Probably drop a south bend clutch in too since it's had diesel and oil leaking on it since I swapped it around 30k miles ago.

Current mods are swamps tow/haul injectors, bellowed up pipes and TS6 chip with swamps tunes, 6673? Filter and 3.5" downpipe to 4" exhaust.

I wouldn't bother with a cam on a truck you aren't hot rodding/sled pulling with; unless you are planning on spinning it well past 3,000 RPM regularly, there really isn't much to be gained with a cam swap. South Bend is way overpriced in my opinion. I put a Kentucky Clutch Ceramic/Organic clutch in mine that will supposedly hold 500 HP for ~$400 shipped and have been very happy with it (I have a 2000 with a ZF S6-650 so your results may vary). The factory turbos are a major weak point on the 7.3L platform. I have a Wicked Wheel II in my GTP38 and a Banks "Power Elbow", which is a fancy EBPV delete (again a Superduty, so not exactly apples to apples), and I put them in at the same time as tuning and exhaust, so it is hard to say exactly how much it is worth over a stock wheel/turbo, but I feel like the turbo is really holding my setup back. I don't have surge issues or EGT issues, but the Turbo just seems to be really unresponsive compared to my friends LLY and LBZ Duramaxes as well as common rail 5.9L Cummins, and I can only build about 25 PSI max in my PHP 80 HP tune (Hydra). If I were you I would be looking at a Borg Warner SXE364.5 and T4 setup which seems really impressive from what I've seen. If you cant swing the standard T4 conversion the KC Turbos KC300x (63/73) or KC TP38r (63/73) seems to be the ticket for the rig that tows.
 
Sachs clutch has been good in mine.

As far as turbo, I'd really like to upgrade as well. I think they are even more of a restriction on the 94-97 7.3s. I had an i/c boot pop off recently and it's sad how little of a difference it made :laughing:

The t4 stuff is probably the "best" but for a tow rig that goes all over the place, I hate custom stuff. Always seems less reliable no matter what it is.

I came across this kit the other day that seems like a good middle ground?

 
I can only build about 25 PSI max in my PHP 80 HP tune (Hydra).
That's all mine does with similar mods. The F550 chase truck we had with all sorts of other upgrades would pull 35#, but it had a boost fooler deal to keep the computer from going into limp mode. Had to watch the EGT's like a hawk with that thing, a very poor way to do it in my opinion.
 
That's all mine does with similar mods. The F550 chase truck we had with all sorts of other upgrades would pull 35#, but it had a boost fooler deal to keep the computer from going into limp mode. Had to watch the EGT's like a hawk with that thing, a very poor way to do it in my opinion.
Sounds like bad tuning.
 
Good tuning shouldn't require the use of a "boost fooler," so I would be inclined to agree. You want your fueling tables to reference your actual manifold pressure.
Stock ecu will throw a code if it sees over 25 psi. I'm not a tuner, but I would think there is a way around it with good tuning.
 
Stock ecu will throw a code if it sees over 25 psi. I'm not a tuner, but I would think there is a way around it with good tuning.
There is. I have broken 25 PSI in my hotter tunes and have never thrown a check engine light. The computer sees the actual manifold pressure on my truck.

As I mentioned before, I am running a Hydra with the standard PHP tunes since I am still running the stock injectors and HPOP.
 
I wouldn't bother with a cam on a truck you aren't hot rodding/sled pulling with; unless you are planning on spinning it well past 3,000 RPM regularly, there really isn't much to be gained with a cam swap. South Bend is way overpriced in my opinion. I put a Kentucky Clutch Ceramic/Organic clutch in mine that will supposedly hold 500 HP for ~$400 shipped and have been very happy with it (I have a 2000 with a ZF S6-650 so your results may vary). The factory turbos are a major weak point on the 7.3L platform. I have a Wicked Wheel II in my GTP38 and a Banks "Power Elbow", which is a fancy EBPV delete (again a Superduty, so not exactly apples to apples), and I put them in at the same time as tuning and exhaust, so it is hard to say exactly how much it is worth over a stock wheel/turbo, but I feel like the turbo is really holding my setup back. I don't have surge issues or EGT issues, but the Turbo just seems to be really unresponsive compared to my friends LLY and LBZ Duramaxes as well as common rail 5.9L Cummins, and I can only build about 25 PSI max in my PHP 80 HP tune (Hydra). If I were you I would be looking at a Borg Warner SXE364.5 and T4 setup which seems really impressive from what I've seen. If you cant swing the standard T4 conversion the KC Turbos KC300x (63/73) or KC TP38r (63/73) seems to be the ticket for the rig that tows.
I recently switched from a T4 S366/73 to a "small turbine" S363/68. A lot of guys on the Ford Forums are doing the same, stepping from a 364.5/73 to the 363/68 and having great results. On my 363 I am running a .83ar housing with PHP 65hp and 80hp tunes. I tow around 13k and it does awesome. Low end spool is instant and EGTs arent any higher than the S366. No matter how hard I am in it, it wont break 1200*.
 
Well with 360k on the odometer and leaking a gallon of oil every couple days, plus a fuel leak and small coolant leak, it's finally time to pull the engine and freshen her up. After pricing everything out and not having any plans to get rid of a pre smog truck in California I decided if I'm pulling the engine I might as well go all the way and tear it down for a rebuild.

So far the plan is a factory overhaul kit from Riff Raff, swamps stage 2 cam, swamps stage one valve springs and terminator t500 HPOP. I need to do something with the turbo but haven't decided what yet. Right now I'm going back and forth between rebuilding with a wicked wheel, rebuild with Riff Raff's wheel or just ordering a center section from somewhere. While everything is on the bench I'll also go through the fuel bowl, new lines to the back of the head, (one of the leaks,) and clean up and carefully inspect the wiring harness. Probably drop a south bend clutch in too since it's had diesel and oil leaking on it since I swapped it around 30k miles ago.

Current mods are swamps tow/haul injectors, bellowed up pipes and TS6 chip with swamps tunes, 6673? Filter and 3.5" downpipe to 4" exhaust.

T4 turbo pedestal kit with S3XX turbo. Fuck all that OEM drop in turbo shit.
You sound like you are wanting a kick ass setup and the OEM drop in turbos are not it.
 
I'll take a closer look at running a different turbo. End goal is dragging trailers around on steep mountain roads and daily driver to work. I haven't been able to drive it much lately because it was leaking so much oil the boss wouldn't let me drive it to jobs and when I'm working at the shop I had to park it up the road in a dirt pullout and walking a few hundred yards
 
And like someone else said think hard on the camshaft, that money could be spent on injectors, etc.

I'd keep the valve springs.
 
And like someone else said think hard on the camshaft, that money could be spent on injectors, etc.

I'd keep the valve springs.

Injectors got replaced 30k ago with swamps tow/haul injector. I'm just going to run them. I'll probably decide on cam when I get her opened up. Valve springs I'm definitely doing. I run my exhaust brake constantly and don't want issues. From what I read it's uncommon but possible to float a valve with an exhaust brake and weak springs.
 
Injectors got replaced 30k ago with swamps tow/haul injector. I'm just going to run them. I'll probably decide on cam when I get her opened up. Valve springs I'm definitely doing. I run my exhaust brake constantly and don't want issues. From what I read it's uncommon but possible to float a valve with an exhaust brake and weak springs.
How do you like those injectors? I'm still running what I believe are original and want an upgrade, but also dont want to loose reliability or tax my hpop.
 
I recently switched from a T4 S366/73 to a "small turbine" S363/68. A lot of guys on the Ford Forums are doing the same, stepping from a 364.5/73 to the 363/68 and having great results. On my 363 I am running a .83ar housing with PHP 65hp and 80hp tunes. I tow around 13k and it does awesome. Low end spool is instant and EGTs arent any higher than the S366. No matter how hard I am in it, it wont break 1200*.
Not bad advice, but I would say it depends a lot on the injectors you want to run and how aggressive you want your tuning to be. A 363SXE with the small turbine would probably be great with stock (AA-90CC, AB-130CC, or AD-135CC) or AC code (160cc) injectors, but I think it would probably choke/not be able to clear up a truck with 180-250CC injectors. Of course, the OP hasn't indicated the specs of his injectors, so it is hard to say what would be best for him. Regardless, any SXE turbo will blow away a TP38/GTP38 unless you get something stupid big that you cant spool.
 
Not bad advice, but I would say it depends a lot on the injectors you want to run and how aggressive you want your tuning to be. A 363SXE with the small turbine would probably be great with stock (AA-90CC, AB-130CC, or AD-135CC) or AC code (160cc) injectors, but I think it would probably choke/not be able to clear up a truck with 180-250CC injectors. Of course, the OP hasn't indicated the specs of his injectors, so it is hard to say what would be best for him. Regardless, any SXE turbo will blow away a TP38/GTP38 unless you get something stupid big that you cant spool.

Running 150/146 injectors from swamps. The more I think about it I'm probably going to have to stick with the stockish turbo. I run a BD diesel exhaust brake that bolts directly on in place and the exhaust back pressure valve. No real interest in spending a grand to replace that plus turbo upgrades at this time.
 
Made a little more progress today. Got the trans out and found one of the bell housing bolts backed almost all the way out. Everything is stripped off the front of the engine, electric is all undone. Pretty much just fuel lines, engine mounts and hood and I'm ready to pull it. Got a buddy lined up to give me a hand tomorrow evening. Right now I'm debating calling the boss and picking up the service truck with the crane or just yanking it with the excavator. I like the crane better because I get a little more control being able to not rely on directions from someone, but if I pick up the crane the boss will probably try to get me to help him with something tomorrow. Regardless I'll try to remember to get some pics.

Have a question. Found the down pipe was loose a while ago and tightened it up, but once I got the turbo out I found out that the rubbing had worn the flange down pretty bad. Anyone know where I can pick one up so I can just weld a new end on?
 
Is this an OBS truck? If so, get an actual round (aftermarket) downpipe. The flattened-out stock thing is garbage.
 
Is this an OBS truck? If so, get an actual round (aftermarket) downpipe. The flattened-out stock thing is garbage.
Yes and I already have an aftermarket downpipe. Just need a new end. I don't see any reason to get a whole new downpipe if I can find the one piece I need and spend a few minutes welding
 
Well I managed to get it out. Only forgot to unhook one thing before I started lifting it and we caught it before it damaged anything. Now on to the couple hour process of trying to get that baked on grease off and then try to fit it in my way too small shop.
 

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