1972 F-250 2wd to 4wd build

[bobbywalter]

loving the gauges....great work on the wiring layout.

 

[rattle_snake]

ooooh Those are fancy gauges! Nothing new to say man it looks great. I think we have all had at least 1 vehicle that we bought with a wiring nightmare.

For me was a 1979 GMC k10 short bed, PO had neon lights or a speaker in every nook and cranny in the cab. Solder or even butt connectors were not in this guys vocabulary, if you were lucky you got twist wire nuts but most of them were wires twisted together (some with tape over them). Also need a ground somewhere? why bother running a wire to a grounding bolt when you can just run a self tapper right through the middle of the wire 2" from light. I seriously had a shop trash can full of nothing but wires and those small 4-6" JCwhitney neons.

Ya, my buddy had a 87 YJ that was a cluster. JC Whitney neons bring back some memories, the 'underglow' fad was big in the 90s.

loving the gauges....great work on the wiring layout.

Thanks. Been puttering on rear harness wiring between camping, boating, riding and fixing all the crap that breaks while playing with them.

I didn't make the cutouts in the rear cross members big enough to get the harness plug bundles through and overall length was short due to relocation of rear x-mem. So fuck it had to run harness below frame next to tank. Fuel pump is now wired which is needed for startup.

 

[bobbywalter]

compromises can bring pain....but if your moving...your moving. i always end up with wiring issues no matter what ido...so just do it works for me.

 

[rattle_snake]

Completed wiring on the 72 ford, I think. Wrapped up rear harness and wired fuel pump. Installed lighting harness and tested lights.
Last item was under-hood fuse/relay box. Took me 8 hours to wire it. The relays needed a coil complement signal like gnd, B+ and run/start so started with schematics of the functions and wired them first. I used a weather pack crimper on the terminals. Using generic crimper for different terminals and wire sizes (12-20ga) is not ideal. Many are mission critical so had to use utmost care to make sure everything is robust and reliable.
The battery and started solenoid have a crap ton of ring terminal connections, so I tried my best to minimize the number if them. To future proof, I ran a 12 ga wire to all 6 fuses and crimped them all into one lug. I added support for A/C at this time with a pair of relays. The factory 1972 A/C clutch system is positive logic, but the Holley EFI is negative, so used one relay as an inverter to adapt. This allows the EFI to control the A/C clutch and idle speed.

Then hooked up the wires from dash and EFI harnesses. The terminals can be removed if needed. Overall the physical implementation worked out OK.

I tested the horn and EFI (It's alive!) and decided against better judgement to wrap the harness, because, what could go wrong?
The four relays are: fuel pump, A/C cluch, A/C inverter, horn.
The fuses are: Fuel pump, EFI, Aux power, A/C cutch, horn.

Also swapped out AGU audio fuse for a 60A thermal breaker. Now I can cut off power to everything with a button or pull fuse.

 

[rattle_snake]

So with wiring done pending some testing, I started fluid fill process with the lubricant on the right. Filled rear diff (front will remain dry), transfer case, engine and trans. Trans took only 8 qts and probably needs 8 more once running, however that works during cam break in. Still need to fill power steering and coolant.

Filled master cylinder and started bleeding brakes. One of the AN fitting on m/c was leaking. They are inverted flare to AN, which isn't the best as there is no rotational slip beween tube and nut, and it is one piece. snugged up a bit more and tightened AN line, but AN nut easily mushroomed on threads. So AN lines are junk. Brake fluid all over my pristine Krylon rattle can job. Not sure I trust this particular hose, not another option this exact length/right angle fitting. Considering looped hard lines again, have all the parts to make them already.

 

[rattle_snake]

So, Dex/Merc in power steering, dedicated synthetic PS fluid, or synthetic ATF? Thinking dex/merc so one less fluid to carry, unless there is a significant improvement from the others.

 

[rattle_snake]

That wiring is coming together nice. Want to come and do mine once you wrap yours up?

Don’t let the brake line issue get you discouraged. You are going to run into a bunch of that little shit whenever you undertake a project this size. Just keep hammering through them when they come up, and you’ll have a solid, reliable rig in no time. And maybe you can figure out how to make it 4x4 someday too

(I had to on that last part. It still totally bums me out that you ran into that big of an issue with how well thought out the entire build is)

No not really. I'd probably just drink all your beer and leave with job half finished.

I'm hesitant to just replace the AN brake line or even keep the other one. Guess it's time to make some old school curly Q's and move forward.

Someday man, someday... I reluctantly crawled under and removed the front shaft, wrapped it in a paper blankie and put it into cardboard quarantine. Still good enough for SEMA

 

[GGRR 4555]

Kickass build. The level of cleanliness is impressive!

 

[rattle_snake]

Kickass build. The level of cleanliness is impressive!

Thanks almost there. Nothing left to clean now just need to get it running.

 

[rattle_snake]

Would you be able to get away with regular flex lines instead of AN lines? You would probably still have to run adapters at the master, but it would all be normal flare fittings.

You’ll get it all figured out. It won’t stay a sema truck for long once you start driving it. But if you’re anything like me, you need to get it back up and running or else you’ll lose interest and never get it finished. After a month or 3 of driving it around, put it down again to fix all the little stuff that came up and start butchering that front end

I could but they would be almost the same as what I have now. Could just replace the faulty hose too, but I think the adapter will still leak at the master. The quick/easy route is to make hard lines, I had already bought all the stuff to make them.

I do need to get this thing rolling. I've put a lot of focus and time in over the last 2 years.
Once drivable I'll take a break then start phase 2. Front axle, A/C, e-brake, bumpers, rear wheel wells, winch, rocker protection, nitrous, etc

 

[rattle_snake]

Some pic of high current wiring. Used 2 ga with 4 ga lugs that fit tight. Used compression hex crimper for a robust connection, aka bolt cutter style.
Start wire is off so it can't accidently get bumped. EFI ground goes right to bat-.

I used a few insulated clamps to secure 2 ga wire so it could not chafe anywhere. One on oil pan, another on alt case. Voltage sense is on alt post.
Main ground point is engine block, 2ga to batt and frame. 4 ga strap to fender, 8ga engine to cab at firewall.

I also added 4 ag gnd for audio amp. Other side of stud has twin 8 ga to amplifier. This seems to help compared to the crusty OEM gnd at firewall.

 

[rattle_snake]

Made some new brake lines to replace the AN hoses. For SnGs, I tightened up the other AN3 fitting to see what would happen. It didn't ever snug/stop just mushroomed and failed. Chinese junk I guess (Allstar Performance brand).

So I looked at the stock lines and pondered design criteria. Instead of one loop like stock, I made the lines zig-zag along the engine bay contours. I figure this method has similar freedom of movement due to number of bends.

Engine bay pretty much complete.

 

[arse_sidewards]

I made the lines zig-zag along the engine bay contours. I figure this method has similar freedom of movement due to number of bends.

Should be fine. That's basically what my Ranger had from the factory and it had way less line length to take up the flex.

 

[GGRR 4555]

Made some new brake lines to replace the AN hoses. For SnGs, I tightened up the other AN3 fitting to see what would happen. It didn't ever snug/stop just mushroomed and failed. Chinese junk I guess (Allstar Performance brand).

So I looked at the stock lines and pondered design criteria. Instead of one loop like stock, I made the lines zig-zag along the engine bay contours. I figure this method has similar freedom of movement due to number of bends.

Engine bay pretty much complete.

Brake line Porn! Nice work.

 

[rattle_snake]

Should be fine. That's basically what my Ranger had from the factory and it had way less line length to take up the flex.

Cool thanks for info

 

[rattle_snake]

Brake line Porn! Nice work.

Thanks. Was forced to try to make them parallel and uniform gap.... Hope these stiffies don't leak. Will try to bleed again tonight, what could go wrong?

 

[GGRR 4555]

Thanks. Was forced to try to make them parallel and uniform gap.... Hope these stiffies don't leak. Will try to bleed again tonight, what could go wrong?

When it looks that good it you can't lose!

 

[rattle_snake]

Decided to pressure test the coolant system with air and it leaked all around water pump and a little at the block-to-timing cover. So apart it came

I used aviation gasket sealer, but skipped a few double surface applications and fail. Guess it has to be on both sided of everything, so 12 coats of goo for 3 gaskets. Reassembled and now it appears to not leak.

Can't run oil slinger with double roller timing set so I guess it needed to come apart anyhow. Also added my fancy heater hose fitting that were blocked by coolant bypass tube.

I filled PS system with dex/merc and used an old v pulley on a drill to prime system. Jacked up front end and had Daughter #2 turn wheel lock to lock while I ran the pump. Didn't get too many bubbles and system only took 1 quart. Trying to prevent foaming on cam break in.

Next is brake bleed take 2 and fuel fill/pressure test. what can go wrong?

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

Truck is beautiful and your attention to detail is incredible!

 

[FleshEater]

Truck is beautiful and your attention to detail is incredible!

This thing is ridiculously immaculate. I'm afraid to see if it ends up in the rocks with dents and broken parts all over it. You guys out west will never know how those pictures make us easterners just cringe in pain.

 

[rattle_snake]

Truck is beautiful and your attention to detail is incredible!

Thanks. I still like playing with trucks. The build is supposed to be fun so I'm taking extra time on some things.

 

[rattle_snake]

This thing is ridiculously immaculate. I'm afraid to see if it ends up in the rocks with dents and broken parts all over it. You guys out west will never know how those pictures make us easterners just cringe in pain.

Thanks. I didn't build it for the rocks but it's going to get driven through the brush and won't be afraid to add another dent. No nice paint or need to park way out at the mall (or gym).

You know you easterners can just move west, buy a nice old truck and enjoy the sunshine.

 

[rattle_snake]

Got the brakes bleed again, no leaks. Pedal not all the way there but should be enough to drive. Still need to do something with e-brake.

I removed the thermostat and drilled a small hole to allow air to escape on fill up. Hope to fill with water tonight.

Then put 5 gallons of fuel (87 is fine for 9.3:1) and test fuel system. List is getting shorter. Hope to fire it up this weekend.

 

[FleshEater]

Thanks. I didn't build it for the rocks but it's going to get driven through the brush and won't be afraid to add another dent. No nice paint or need to park way out at the mall (or gym).

You know you easterners can just move west, buy a nice old truck and enjoy the sunshine.

That's not too bad, then. This is one of the best looking builds I've seen that's a little more extreme than just bolt on parts, but not to the point of cutting fenders and drastically changing the look.

Yeah, if my wife would leave family, I'd pack up my stuff and head west tomorrow. Don't think it isn't a dream.

 

[rattle_snake]

AZ is already full of humans, I hear CA is nice though....

 

[Burns]

I've held off commenting on your build for so long....but we basically have the same truck, except mines a diesel....and yours is way nicer! I did stick a 2015 interior in mine though :p Obviously from my "Starter" thread you can see I suck at electrical...so I may be back to PM you some questions on lights. Right now mine are a touch wonky!

 

[rattle_snake]

Filled cooling system with 5 gallons of distilled water.
Programmed the Dakota Digital dash and did diagnostic check on sensors, all seems OK. Need functional oil and water temp gauges.
Programmed the Holley EFI config and did some initial testing and general familiarization of the system and menus. Still need to make some changes for learning on cold startup.
Put 4 gallons of fuel in the tank and ran the pump by bypassing relay. Appears to only use about 8 amp but spec is 15. One AN hardline fitting is leaking. I used a 45* flare tool so I figured I may have issues with 37* ANs. Snugged up but leaks the same. Disassembled and inspected joint, looks OK but isn't, in a tight spot.

So far there are no wiring issues. A miracle. Plumbing, not so much...

Hope to fire this bitch up this weekend.

 

[rattle_snake]

I've held off commenting on your build for so long....but we basically have the same truck, except mines a diesel....and yours is way nicer! I did stick a 2015 interior in mine though :p Obviously from my "Starter" thread you can see I suck at electrical...so I may be back to PM you some questions on lights. Right now mine are a touch wonky!

Sure man ask away, glad to help. Electrical is the easy part, the electrons just go where they are supposed to.

 

[rattle_snake]

Got the fuel leak resolved. I ran the pump to make sure I was working on the right fitting and somehow over night the joint self-healed.... and the one next to it had a slight leak. Hmmm. Borrowed a friends Rigid 337 37* flare tool and re-swedged the tubes on the motor end. Will eventually go back and do the rear fittings but I think the tubing will have to come out to do it. Trying not to create more side jobs and roadblocks....

Made a radiator overflow tube out of 5/16 hardline and tidied up the wiring some more.

I zero'd out the temperature fuel enrichment table and verified the learning was enabled per Holley's support site. Charged battery and checked starter circuit.

Ready to fire up which is quite a milestone for me. Going to do a final bolt n nut check and have a buddy do a independent firing order verification and inspection.

 

[rattle_snake]

I was able to get my money pit running and kind of driving. Cam break in went OK. It fired immediately and got timing set. Right bank got hot quick and burned off all the header paint, left side still has paint. EFI didn't want to go into learn or closed loop much, so AFR on left bank was about 16. Coolant got hot so shut it down to inspect everything. Still in upper 90s here in October so put a fan on radiator. New fan clutch didn't seem to move much air. No shroud yet. Checked EFI, fluid and so on. All OK so restarted and finished break in without further issue.

Upon idle it seems to have a vacuum leak. Drives OK but bad manners at idle and gear changes. Sounds mean, nasty, but should be smooth with 213/227 cam. Pulled plugs, #2 looks brand new, and not like the rest. Did compression, cylinder contribution, spark tests, all pass. Thinking intake may be leaking on underside from crank case. Plan to do some more tests to isolate.

So I call it another victory but a new list of problems;
Power steering doesn't work at all.
Rear main appears to be leaking
Transfer case PTO cover leaking
Brakes soft
So it has leaked every fluid except rear diff. Trans has one drip, cooler loop ok.

I drove it a short distance. Seems to have great low end power and grunt, put a big smile on my face! You can lift the front left corner with the skinny pedal
:)
Put rear in low and it will break loose a tire with just part throttle. Babying it for now till I get issues sorted out.

Put the hood on and cleared all the stuff out of the bed, to put a temporary bow on the project