1972 F-250 2wd to 4wd build

[bradp674]

Need more amber lights, so you are ready for all occasions. And make sure you run them during the day, so everyone knows what you have.

 

[rattle_snake]

I feel so inadequate...

 

[rattle_snake]

Since you guys understand how cool you can be from bolting loads of shit all over your rig...


I wouldn't have necessarily chosen these specific models but 75% off I figured I give it a try. Can always modify, move, or use a different type of light. I did the project the opposite way most people would. Instead of installing using the supplied HW, I started disassembling the truck and removing functioning systems to not cobble another one in. Planned out an expandable relay & control system and put that in 1st. Pulled ashtray switch panel out and rewired for lights

Final box wiring. color coded in and out, and match sw LED. The 6 dedicated power wires go to one lug.

Reworked the wiring around the new box. Added a gnd stud for low current stuff. Had to put riv nuts in where I touched. Slippery slope on how far to go with that on rest of the truck.

Rewired most all of the rock lights. Instead of going in and out of cab, the system starts at the relay and then across the core to feed the rest.

Single harness over the core, connectorized so it can be removed next time engine comes out. haha.

Hidden under the fan cavitation seals

I mounted the amber flood pods behind the grill to keep the bumper area clean. Tight fit, no cutting. Swapped out all the grill sheet metal screws and old plastic inserts for riv-nuts and SS machine screws, because I was there. I would like to swap in the midnight series black reflector or get a tinted cover to blend in a bit more.

I didn't want the light bar to be the focus of the front of the truck either. Tucked it in close to sway bar and mounted to bottom of bumper. Exposed location but would rather have looks over protection. Will get some snap on covers for it.

 

[Provience]

Looks sweet, the ash tray switch pod is interesting. Not sure how to feel about it

Need the stuff out of sight which is slick, how is it to live with?

 

[rattle_snake]

I throw roaches out the window so no need for an ashtray.

Switches in tray aren't used much, so no big deal.

 

[rattle_snake]

Played around with the nitrous system last weekend. Working properly and even with cold bottle delivered decent power increase.

When going WOT from a stop the converter stalls at about 2200 RPM, front end lifts, and tires break loose until weight is transferred. Then window switch activates nitrous at 3000 and it pulls front up a bit more.

 

[71PA_Highboy]

fuck... I always look forward to your posts to see real tech... then you had to do this... (referring to light bar pics, not nitrous/switch tech)

 

[rattle_snake]

It's my role to irritate members on this site. Well that is everyone's role.

Excessive aftermarket lights aren't my thing but price was right and my headlights suck. If anything, I can drink more beers and still see OK when wheeling at night.

 

[rattle_snake]

stick on tint film to tone down the broverlander vibe. Really need an awing to fit in on the street.

 

[Provience]

wow, disappeared completely with the tint.

 

[reptillikus]

Yeah, Took me a minute to even figure out what was tinted

 

[rattle_snake]

Removed the camper shell for now. Hope to go out camping in it next week, but who knows. Visibility sucks balls with it on, even with backup camera. And it looks better without.

Tried posting some 67-72 Ford parts on bookface placemarket and was contacted by a friend I had not seen in 15 years. I swapped him some random bump stuff for a bed. Someone started to chop it up on the left side then took the time to weld it all back together. like 10' of weld.

I'm interested in the toolbox, going to cut it out of donor bed and graft onto the left side of my truck. Probably tack the piece I cut out of mine back on so it's compete and sent it down the road. Not sure how I get myself into these projects.

 

[Firstram]

Not sure how I get myself into these projects.

Because those tool boxes are cool and should be standard on every pickup!

 

[rattle_snake]

Can't argue with that.

wish I had a tractor or a fork lift to handle shit like this. More shit to break down and waste time on

 

[rattle_snake]

Finished out the nitrous bottle heater project. My neighbor gave me a spare bottle heater that also has a handy 110v element in it. I put a 2 pin weatherpack on DC side to make it removable with the bottle.

The DC element consumes over 20A so I ended up removing the relay I had installed under dash and moved it to the larger 60A power supply of the audio/aux. bat/compressor. Tapped into the main distribution block in cab corner for a 30A auto reset breaker and Bosch relay. Ran 12 ga wire out bottom of cab to bed in same loom as the nitrous line.

Adjusted bottle mount for heater and put in a GND stud for the chassis side of the harness. Functioning as expected including indication light in instrument cluster.

 

[1Sinner]

Please tell me you're hiding that in an old school cross bed toolbox

 

[rattle_snake]

No, but it is locked into the bottle mount with a hitch pin. Could be removed with tools, I should tack the one nut on latch. Bottle isn't mounted at all times, and sometimes the camper shell is on.

I've never been a cross bed toolbox guy due to campers and motorcycles. I might consider a flush one but I bought that 2nd bed for under-bed toolbox #2.

 

[rattle_snake]

Still farting around with EFI tuning. After some failed attempts at custom map tuning I did full reset. Drove only 2 days and then disabled learning. Better that ever, but still has cold idle dip when changing gears. Restricting the PCV didn't do anything. I can post my cfg/log on holley's forum, but I think I want to take a swing at Sniper timing control instead of the distributor. This will remove the mechanical dependency of manifold pressure and timing of vac advance. Will see how the EFI software control loop handles this, hopefully filtered. Assume is uses load which also includes TPS which is static at idle. Found info on how to lock out my dura spark II.

 

[Provience]

Carb swap time

 

[rattle_snake]

I don't even have words for that

 

[rattle_snake]

Old pickup is doing well. I drive it most days unless I'm on my motorcycle, given the beautiful winter weather, haha. No leaks from trans so seems to be ok. Heater works and everything.

Fucked with Rockford Fosgate DSR1 audio DSP for quite some time and only got it to work once. So abandoned for now. Found a wiring snafu in how the main/high amp internally connects inputs, fixed with some more 'y' adapters. Did some more tuning and have it dialed in pretty well. The 1000w amp and the pair of the new style shallow power 10s are impressive. The system stays clean loud as fuck. I've built much larger systems with more equipment that don't perform as well. Bass is super tight and punchy and pounds the hell out of the seat back.

 

[Grendel]

I do Sniper and HyperSpark on almost everything.

I'd suggest it, if you're having timing issues.

 

[rattle_snake]

I'm not really having timing issues but eventually want to take advantage of the spark control. I bought a new Duraspark curved for this motor, with plans to lock it out at some point, it is 1/4 the price of the hyper. The old 1978 dizzy was worn out, junk.

 

[rattle_snake]

With my car broke I've been driving the old ford with coolant leaking down the floorboard for some time now. I had to splice two molded hoses together to get the overall shape I needed from core to firewall. The worm clamps on upper hose were inaccessible, but leaking. Fuck. I was able to pull slack on lower hose enough to get a hook around the upper hose and get it part way out behind A/C box. Rotated clamps for future access and snugged. While topping off coolant I found the oil leak that had been making a mess. The A/C line on the drier had come loose, so refer oil.
Whack-a-mole. Fix heater, A/C broken.
Likely from last time engine came out. I leave A/C connected and fold it out of the way. Went for test drive and found floor wet again. I just said 'that's unfortunate'. Turns out it was just residual fluid. Glad I converted to 134A as A/C service is no issue.

 

[rattle_snake]

Enjoying driving this thing. Stable and comfortable at 100 with plenty left to go.

 

[1Sinner]

That's impressive

 

[Will Scarlet]

 

[rattle_snake]

Got the truck out on the trail last weekend for a three day trip. Florence area, Box/Martinez. Had group of 7 rigs, the rest Toyotas on 35s or smaller. Mostly slow rocky washes. Truck is a pig on fuel. Getting about 3 MPG or less. If engine is running, it is consuming more than a little fuel. It does make the right noises and have plenty of torque. A doubler would still be nice.

Put a nice dent in front diff cover and smashed in the bedside toolbox a bit. Avoidable but fixable. Need rock rails and underbelly skid. scrapped up 3 of the wheels and lots of brush pinstripes in paint.

Power door lock system has a broken/intermittent wire. Bumps on the trail started actuating it constantly so had to disable.

After 8 hours of wheelin the power steering got loud assist dropped. Fluid full, perhaps aerated. Was OK the next day. Cooler has poor airflow, need to relocated or add forced airflow.

Camped 2nd night at Ajax mine. Have all my camp shit organized and down to bare minimum.

Finally got to use ARB pump and hose system. Aired all four 40s up from 9 psi to 25 in 3-4 min.

 

[Provience]

all in all, looks like a good time thanks for sharing pictures of the truck getting used

 

[rattle_snake]

It was nice to NOT to have mechanical issues. Last trip with trans taking a shit was a bummer after a lot of work on the truck and camper setup. I didn't stress on potential problems just enjoyed the trip.

Temps were in the 70s. The t-stat cycled as expected from 185-195 ish during hours of crawling. The fan clutch doesn't lock until 210 but at these conditions the cooling system is sufficient.