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1972 F-250 2wd to 4wd build

Does your dual plane have a solid wall in the middle of it that comes up flush with the carb mounting flange? If so you might want to try trimming a window into the top of it or running a spacer that is open in middle, seen it few times with the carb replacement style Fi systems where they do not like running with the divided style intake or even worse the 4 individual hole style. Either way the open spacer or the type that starts open then smooths down into the 4 holes might help you out.
 
Yes the 460 performer intake comes with a divided plenum of an odd shape. I initially ran a quasi open/4hole spacer and the EFI was happy. I have since switched to a nitrous plate that is 'open' other than the spray bars that sit over the divider wall. It whistles so I then worked the wall and overall opening with a die grinder to smooth things out. It helped the noise somewhat.

Had I had a single plane I could have altered injector size in programmer and allowed the system to re-learn. In theory.
 
Not much happening on the old Ford. Just been driving it. It handles the hot-as-fuck AZ summer temps just fine. No more pressurized fuel tank issues. I've had a replacement turn signal cam for a long time I should install, but I don't use blinkers much.

Trying to get going on the door panels. I don't really know how to make professional quality level. I have a contact, he used to run an upholstery/auto shop, but went full CNC machine shop. I'm sure he has methods to solve all my unknowns.
 
I came here hoping you had a resolution for the front driveshaft vs pinion angle and of course this thread delivers! I was just about to weld the upper links on my radius arms with the caster set to 5 degrees for my 78 when I decided to mock up the old front driveshaft and began to spiral worrying about it thinking I'd have to cut up the axle and re-do everything at some point.

I am wondering if a multi-double-cardan shaft would be an option but I'll cross that bridge (by calling Tom's) when I get this thing closer to on the road. Seems like a standard 1350 double cardan with 2 degree ball joint shims was the answer.
 
I ended up removing the 2* ball joint shims. A solid axle was never meant to use a shim that big, it mis-aligns the axles and make the BJs operate at an extreme angle. Destroys the boots quickly. BJ shims were intended to make small adjustments side to side not compensating for major geometry changes. Though the process I moved the entire drivetrain down and back, and moved the limit strap locations a few times.

After hogging out the yolks, you can limit the down travel with straps to prevent the driveshaft from binding.

I'm surprised that I have no front vibes even at 65+ MPH.
 
I added a medium current (15A) charge circuit to the old ford. It has a fair amount of parasitic draw from aftermarket junk like door locks. I bought a 2 pin SAE 12g fused pigtail, but ended up cutting off fuse and using one of the prewired fuses in the secondary fuse block.
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Now can access/charge without opening hood. I converted my 2/10/15 amp charger to use same SAE plug as the float chargers. Everything is interchangeable.
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I bought a re-pop window crank some time ago. The knob broke off, junk, where as the original lasted 50 years. Anyhow, Needed a quick solution so I used a 308WIN brass as the neck was about right size, but it's too long. Rotates super smooth. At some point I'll go back and do both sides with 44 Mag.
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Drove the truck today to get my kid from school. Hour later went to take her back and no fuel pressure, pump not running. Always something at least it took a shit at home. Fuse and relay good, have to dig in deeper.
 
Found the culprit of the fuel pump issue. I was initially concerned with amp capacity of weatherpack connectors. The 320 lph pump draws 20+ amps all the time and is too much in the long run. I fixed by using a butt crimp on the power wire and went to a 2-pin for the level sender. I'd rather have it disconnectable, however hard connection is most robust for mission critical wire. There is a 2nd connector at the pump, so did the same there. Should be solved.
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I shoulda swung by when I was out in Tucson with my truck. Regrets......anyways, this thing kicks ass! Nice work!
 
rattle_snake said:
I can get a 1980s '5.0 style' 7.5 but not much else.
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I have those on mine, but being an 88 it makes sense
304.jpg


A 7.6 badge would be cool. A buddy knows someone who is 3d printing 92-97 badges, maybe I should find out if he wants to do some older badges.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Way ahead of you :laughing:
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Oh shit! Arse has his shit together on this one.
reptillikus said:
But! It needs to say 466 :flipoff2:

Those are pretty cool though.
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Hmm, those are cool and the right style....

reptillikus said:
I have those on mine, but being an 88 it makes sense
A 7.6 badge would be cool. A buddy knows someone who is 3d printing 92-97 badges, maybe I should find out if he wants to do some older badges.
Click to expand...
Yes yours is legit. I'd be up for custom.
 
rattle_snake said:
I added a medium current (15A) charge circuit to the old ford. It has a fair amount of parasitic draw from aftermarket junk like door locks. I bought a 2 pin SAE 12g fused pigtail, but ended up cutting off fuse and using one of the prewired fuses in the secondary fuse block.
cLYawG6FymFHwP0uuFzA=w1271-h953-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg


Now can access/charge without opening hood. I converted my 2/10/15 amp charger to use same SAE plug as the float chargers. Everything is interchangeable.
Click to expand...
Do you have a mfr/part number for your secondary fuse box?
 
Some days I really wish I would have done a 545 ci stroker instead of the stock 3.85 crank. The ported D3 would actually work OK. but AFRs and all the goodies would almost double the cost of the engine.
 
Yes more power solves any issue.

Dreaming of my next project. Looking at 73-77 2WD pickups, willing to cut up a LWB to make a SWB. Thinking Godzilla and a 6R80. 4 link, discs, CV front or something like that. Or put the godzilla in this 72 and the nitrous 466 in the 2wd with a big cam.
 
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