1972 F-250 2wd to 4wd build

[rattle_snake]

Compressor has a right sized hole in good location for a switch. Was going to run into cab, but not really needed. maybe later.

Cut control plug off (red pin on cable side is a plug with no pin..) and extended wiring to the switch. Had the exact 3 wires I needed.

Fits like it was designed for the purpose.

Secured compressor by bolting the pump to the plastic liner.

baby steps

 

[Levigarrett76]

How solid/stout is that plastic liner? I have never found one of those trucks with that box that its not missing.

 

[rattle_snake]

It's pretty robust but it is warped a bit. 3/16 thick or so.

The earlier trucks had a metal liner that rusts out. I think only 71/72 used plastic.

 

[Bvanetten]

It's pretty robust but it is warped a bit. 3/16 thick or so.

The earlier trucks had a metal liner that rusts out. I think only 71/72 used plastic.

Iyi. I've got a 75, it's plastic.

 

[rattle_snake]

I wonder how different a 73-79 tool box would be...

 

[Steve300xcw]

Not like you can see both tool boxes at the same time......

 

[rattle_snake]

Wired up the ARB compressor. Slimmed down the power harness. Cut off the dual 40A fuse holders, brought GND out of bundle at a different location.

I wanted to retain the ability to remove the bed without cutting wires. Given that the harness plug was on the comp end, I cut an oval hole that allow the plug to fit through. Riv nuts instead of sharp sheet metal screws poking through.

Made a cover for the wiring access hole.

Fits decent.

Power comes from existing high current wiring for audio amp. Had one spot left in distribution block.

Power wires into cab in same hole as the bed charging system. Used GND lug in cab as it was close, has a 2 ga wire to frame. (and bat to block. block to frame)

Compressor is secured with 4 M6 flange bolts. Used some spacer to level it out, which also helps airflow underneath.

Waiting on some more AN fittings. My 1st scheme didn't work out.

 

[rattle_snake]

Still waiting on some AN fittings but received enough to get basic setup going. The 90 out of the compressor is a swivel. Not really what I wanted, but it does take the force/leverage off the fitting as you have to hold the female end to plug in a hose.

Added a strap to the back side of the wire harness exit to help secure it.

And with compressor system complete, no need for the CO2 tank, and the 10# bottle mount can be occupied with a nitrous tank.

 

[Dumptruck.the.wookie]

dude, save some badass for the rest of us...fuck

 

[rockota]

dude, save some badass for the rest of us...fuck

don't flatter him.... trying to get this for $3.50... he builds junk....

 

[rattle_snake]

dude, save some badass for the rest of us...fuck

Sorry Bro. Just trying to keep up with the other guys that make my work look like a hack. 3d modeling, Robot looking welds, 15# of shit in a 5# buggy.

don't flatter him.... trying to get this for $3.50... he builds junk....

Keep trying.

 

[rattle_snake]

So this box arrived

 

[665.0coupe]

 

[Projectjunkie]

Ooh! Bitchin seat?

 

[Will Scarlet]

 

[rattle_snake]

Ooh! Bitchin seat?

Correct-amundo

Snowden bench seat.
Didn't like the bounciness that the 1970's lots-of-sping and minimal-foam design.
Re-foaming and recovering is expensive, even if I do it all myself, and I still have a bouncy mother fucker.
Starting with 90's seat and re-foam, custom cover is close to what I spent on this brand new seat with 0 effort involved.

The new seat is for Ford pickups with bolts at 42". I robbed the seat to floor pan brackets from the old seat sliders. Good cleaning, turd polish and paint.

Fits fairly well. Sits lower than the original, easier to get under the big steering wheel.

Definitely more comfy.

 

[rattle_snake]

Tested out the new air system. Apex valves can deflate 25->15 psi in under 10 seconds per tire.
Didn't time full inflation but guessing 4-5 min for 15->25 psi.

Can watch TPMS from cab or outside and shut off when appropriate.

 

[Projectjunkie]

That seat is damn sexy 800ish?

I had a 78 f seat done black cloth and vinyl before covid, foam was good $3-400 cash iirc , I imagine it's 4-500 now

 

[rattle_snake]

haha no double that.
I got 4 quotes in phx area, pre.'vid. Only one was below $1000. Vinyl. All were more than 6 months out.
Foam is ~350
stock type cover is ~300
custom cover = a lot, but no one will respond to make one.

 

[rattle_snake]

Next is to install the new (and free) audio equipment. New box, all new behind seat. Bought 4 yards of same fabric as seat to cover box and door panels. Need to plan all this out before I cut anything. big job.

 

[NORDFORD]

Man, I love this build!!

 

[Projectjunkie]

haha no double that.
I got 4 quotes in phx area, pre.'vid. Only one was below $1000. Vinyl. All were more than 6 months out.
Foam is ~350
stock type cover is ~300
custom cover = a lot, but no one will respond to make one.

And that is why mine is the going to be the store brand version of yours


Looking good

 

[rattle_snake]

Man, I love this build!!

Thanks Man. Really getting it dialed in and bugs worked out. Rolls fine in 110+ temps with A/C blowing cold. 6 spd auto is bad ass.

And that is why mine is the going to be the store brand version of yours


Looking good

Ya and how is that project going?



Need a seat?
Vintage. Gently used.

 

[Levigarrett76]

I get the feeling rattle never gonna get bored with and sell for less than he has in it

 

[rattle_snake]

Hard to get bored when it puts you back in the seat and makes the right noises.

 

[rattle_snake]

Toolbox project. Wanted to make a custom box or two, shopped pan brakes and such. Why buy one when you can spend 10x on tools?
So I just bought one, wasn't quite what I wanted, so I modified it. Had a cheap lock hasp that would make it somewhat cumbersome to use. Larger sized were available with a lever latch, so I bought one and retrofitted it in.

Added a gasket to the lid to seal it up.

To secure to floor, drilled holes in corners and used rubber grommets to seal. Added a small piece of 5/16 steel tubing to make a crush sleeve/shoulder bolt, so fasteners can be torqued (and stay that way).

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Installed some 1/4-20 riv-nuts in bed floor (blind due to underside toolbox) and bolted it down. Not the most-bestest but will do for now.

 

[AK_F250]

Make one these out of aluminum. I had one on each side of my dodge, super handy to not have to climb up in the bed. The plastic ones are actually really tough. I finally killed one when I'd forgot I'd buried a class 5 weigh distributing hitch under a bunch of other crap and was chasing a race through some whoops. Blew the bottom right out

UnderCover SwingCase Truck Bed Accessory | UnderCover Truck Bed Cover

undercoverinfo.com

 

[rattle_snake]

I looked at those and dimensions were not quite right, and look doesn't go with 1972. And also considered making one like you suggested. but then I was shopping 48" pan brakes as I have done shit the hard was too long. So I just bought a box.

But I still want a 4' break. WHere I would put it, not sure.

 

[rattle_snake]

The new toolbox in the bed of the '72 can't open far enough (due to bed rail) to stay open. Need one hand to hold it open, which is not cool. To solve, I added some gas struts and set them up so that the lid open angle is limited. These are 8", 18#, a 12" would be better.

Short video
tool box struts

 

[rattle_snake]

Built a roof rack for the old camper shell, more for aesthetic reasons that to pile with overlanding gear, racks, tanks, containers and so on. More likely a elk or deer carcass, or someone else's junk.

The shell is about 2-3 inches shorter than the cab, which looks odd. The rack is easier than trying to rebuild the entire thing taller. Also hides the roof vent I'm adding, and will still fit under 7' door into attached garage. Goal is super light weight and stone simple.

I wanted 1x2 Al rec tube but all the local yard had was 1x2 channel, so went that route. Built basic outer frame on the uneven floor. Used some shims to get it flat.

Put some gussets in the corners with a large hole to secure straps to. Using spool gun with 0.35 AL wire, on Argon. Welds nice even without cleaning. Ran out of material so moved on to mounting. Put riv-nuts into rack frame and they bolt through from inside. foam gasket.

Next step was to install a 14x14 low profile roof vent. Build a H frame at 14.5 x 14.5 to add to roof structure.

Welded on some tabs so H bolted in instead of welding inside camper. Can weld it all up later when I pull the skin off for other mods. Then cut a hole in the roof.

Installed vent with foamgaskets

Definitely wanted powered ventilation, so bought a cheap $10 fan replacement. I made a simple bracket with adjustability. Since the vent is low profile, the fan didn't fit. I shortened the assembly buy modifying the blade and shortening motor shaft.

installed so lid would shut, but drags on screen below.

Spaced interior screen down a 1/4" and it clears.

Then on to wiring. cobbled together a panel and switches I had on hand. Cut a simple metal panel on CNC. 2 interior light circuits and one for fan. Have to fill that 4th spot with something... Simple single connection to truck.

Last project for weekend was to insulate. Used 1" foam and wrapped edges with foil tape. Friction fit. Some a bit tight. Needed exactly 2 sheets if no mistakes made, because I bought 3 sheets. Previous shell I had like this was insulated, and it made a huge difference. Hopefully with powered vent and insulation I can stall cooler in the early mornings when sun hits my toaster oven.

Installed rack even though not done. it hides vent nicely from side view.