'84 Bronco II
El Chingón
Nice to see this truck out on the rocks 
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1972 F-250 2wd to 4wd build
- Thread starter rattle_snake
- Start date
rattle_snake
Fuckwits
Thanks. Truck did well and I had fun. Brakes are fantastic. Stays relatively cool (under 200) creeping in 2WL with A/C blowing cold. Enough clearance to not need a bunch of armor plating and weight penalty. Some minimal protection is planned though.Nice to see this truck out on the rocks
A ram assist would be nice once once a tire is wedged in, but hardcore crawling wasn't really the intent. Otherwise the modded Sag pump and stock box work well enough in 4WD with front locked (mechanical locker). I only use 4wd drive for the few yards I need it then bump only front axle back to N with twin stick.
So, how is the Bronco race project going? And the buggy?
Thanks man. Some fun times. I like the build aspect, but really I made this to drive and enjoy. Get dirty, scraped, burn lots of fuel.amazing pics and loving the old school camper shell
The camper looks the part and works well enough. Plan to move ahead with it unless I find something more-cooler.
rattle_snake
Fuckwits
Topped off tank this morning and fuel consumption rate was 9.7 MPG. I had hoped for 10+ but not going to happen at 75-80 MPH. That still gets me around 9 whether it is up, down, head/tail wind or whatever. 250 mile highway range, which for the most part is enough for what I 'm going to do.
Flat ground at 55 should be much better but I drive fast and not much is flat.
Flat ground at 55 should be much better but I drive fast and not much is flat.
'84 Bronco II
El Chingón
A perfect storm of laziness, being out of town, and making financial moves has been killing progress. The projects will get finished but they have been in suspended animation for a while now
rattle_snake
Fuckwits
Now that I have a bit more trail miles I think it is low enough. It's not quite as low as c6/203/205, and doubler has closer ratios.
C6/203: 4.92, 2.92, 2, // 2.46, 1.46, 1
6R80: 4.17, 2.34, 1.57, 1.14, 0.87, 0.69
Launches awesome in that 4.17 1st on the street.
An atlas in 3.0 or 3.8 would be ideal over a 205.
arse_sidewards
Red Skull Member
- Joined
- May 19, 2020
- Member Number
- 71
- Messages
- 8,555
Probably helps that you don't have torque management like the trucks that transmission came in do.Launches awesome in that 4.17 1st on the street.
Snowracer
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 25, 2020
- Member Number
- 2176
- Messages
- 565
that good and bad to hear as you are really making me want a 6r80 in my buggy project. its between doing the lower gear set in the c6 and a black box/205 or 6r80 and just a 205. need lower crawl gear but also more go fast gear. both get me the same results packaging and price are a big factor. also love the reverse full manual in the c6 currentlyNow that I have a bit more trail miles I think it is low enough. It's not quite as low as c6/203/205, and doubler has closer ratios.
C6/203: 4.92, 2.92, 2, // 2.46, 1.46, 1
6R80: 4.17, 2.34, 1.57, 1.14, 0.87, 0.69
Launches awesome in that 4.17 1st on the street.
An atlas in 3.0 or 3.8 would be ideal over a 205.
rattle_snake
Fuckwits
For buggy racing I would lean towards 6R80. less weight/shorter length.
6R is also full manual if you want it, paddle shift. Programmable converter lock, shift points, ect.
6R is also full manual if you want it, paddle shift. Programmable converter lock, shift points, ect.
reptillikus
ate lug
Now that I have a bit more trail miles I think it is low enough. It's not quite as low as c6/203/205, and doubler has closer ratios.
C6/203: 4.92, 2.92, 2, // 2.46, 1.46, 1
6R80: 4.17, 2.34, 1.57, 1.14, 0.87, 0.69
Launches awesome in that 4.17 1st on the street.
An atlas in 3.0 or 3.8 would be ideal over a 205.
I can even begin to imagine what mine would be like, going from a 2.46 to that 4.17 1st
Its really the OD that im after though.So going way back to the install of the trans. You built that bell crank to get the mechanical linkage up to the column. So what gear selection do you get that way? And now that youve been driving it, would you modify it?
rattle_snake
Fuckwits
Tire smoke....I can even begin to imagine what mine would be like, going from a 2.46 to that 4.17 1st
So going way back to the install of the trans. You built that bell crank to get the mechanical linkage up to the column. So what gear selection do you get that way? And now that youve been driving it, would you modify it?
I designed the ball crank ratio to correlate the 7 selections in the trans to the 6 on the column. Park to park and 1 to 1. That said D and M are a bit off and on either side of 'D' on column. The others are close and the lockouts provided in the column still work OK (can't shift from N to R or R to P without pulling lever back. Need to adjust the NSS as it will crank in D.
As for driving experience, I usually just use D and it acts as you would expect. 1 and 2 also do whats expected and work well for wheeling. but manual lever upshift from 2 to M at heavy throttle keeps trans in 2 instead of upshift, so have to be careful to move it 2 detents to D not M (or 3 to N)
In manual mode the buttons do their thing, so best for manual control at WOT.
The trans controller is programmable on how the selections work. I chose the P R N D M 2 1 flavor, but there are a few others like
P R N OD D(no OD) 2 1
P R N D 2 1
P R N D 1
The trans lever only does two things, Parking pawl, and positions selection sensor. The trans controller reads selector position and can do anything with gears. So would mechanically lock out the tran's 1 and/or 2 and make to work for different shifters.
reptillikus
ate lug
Oh cool I didn't know you could program the gear selection, that's pretty cool. I would definitely want to retain the column shift if/when I put one in my bronco.
rattle_snake
Fuckwits
Farting around on little things to fix/improve from last road trip.
Was getting a driveline vibe at 75-80. Measured angles and the DS/pinion were about equal. I had not really adjusted since new springs. Even with new bushing there is a fair amount of play in traction bar, so I adjusted to have some downward preload with angle of 0.75*. Under throttle it should not really move now. Seems better.
I bought some apex quick deflate valves and a cheap stand alone ($35) TPMS. Will get tires rebalanced on install and go from there.
Rear bump stops need to be extended to keep tire out of fender. Have a few ideas on how to make it easily adaptable.
Planning a mor-flate type of air-up system. ARB twin under hood and some chucks at rocker. The typical mor-flate hose medusa mess of 40 feet isn't really what I want. Either do a pair of hoses or 4 separate hoses. just add $$.
It's been about 3 months since I ordered the new bench seat. Hopefully it will ship soon, then on to that new audio system.
Was getting a driveline vibe at 75-80. Measured angles and the DS/pinion were about equal. I had not really adjusted since new springs. Even with new bushing there is a fair amount of play in traction bar, so I adjusted to have some downward preload with angle of 0.75*. Under throttle it should not really move now. Seems better.
I bought some apex quick deflate valves and a cheap stand alone ($35) TPMS. Will get tires rebalanced on install and go from there.
Rear bump stops need to be extended to keep tire out of fender. Have a few ideas on how to make it easily adaptable.
Planning a mor-flate type of air-up system. ARB twin under hood and some chucks at rocker. The typical mor-flate hose medusa mess of 40 feet isn't really what I want. Either do a pair of hoses or 4 separate hoses. just add $$.
It's been about 3 months since I ordered the new bench seat. Hopefully it will ship soon, then on to that new audio system.
rattle_snake
Fuckwits
After the 4 wheeling in Sedona I saw that I needed to adjust the rear bump stops so that the Tire doesn't contact the sheet metal as bad. The idea was to make the system easily adjustable for this purpose. Added a piece of 1/2 rubber mat and secured with a few screws from beneath, and reinstalled.
Installed some fast-deflate style valve stems from Apex. Remove cap and pull up on collar to vent the stem instead of schrader valve. Can also leave pressure gauge attached.
But also put in an aftermarket TPMS system, so should not need to use a tire gauge. Solar powered. Put it above the rear view mirror, isn't too obvious.
Installed some fast-deflate style valve stems from Apex. Remove cap and pull up on collar to vent the stem instead of schrader valve. Can also leave pressure gauge attached.
But also put in an aftermarket TPMS system, so should not need to use a tire gauge. Solar powered. Put it above the rear view mirror, isn't too obvious.
Levigarrett76
Zeus of the Sluice
Got a link to the tpms system and stems??
rattle_snake
Fuckwits
RPV STD LENGTH
This innovative, patent-pending fast deflation tire valve allows you to quickly dump street air pressure to your preferred off-road pressure. APEX Performance Rapid Precision Valve. Tire Valve | Tire Deflator | Off Road | Jeep JK JL JT | Toyota | Ford | Chevy | Dodge | Subaru
www.apexdesignsusa.com
Similar, this uses the more appropriate style TPMS sensors.
Tire Pressure Monitoring System,Wireless Solar Power TPMS with 5 Alarm Modes,Auto Backlight LCD Display,4 Sensors 0-67 PSI - Walmart.com
Arrives by Tue, Jun 27 Buy Tire Pressure Monitoring System,Wireless Solar Power TPMS with 5 Alarm Modes,Auto Backlight LCD Display,4 Sensors 0-67 PSI at Walmart.com
www.walmart.com
Levigarrett76
Zeus of the Sluice
Thankyou
rattle_snake
Fuckwits
Sure no problem. Glad to help you spend $
I have a few buddies with Apex vales on 35s, they deflate really fast. 10 seconds each tire.
I have a few buddies with Apex vales on 35s, they deflate really fast. 10 seconds each tire.
rattle_snake
Fuckwits
Washed all the mud off the truck and did a proper repair on the bedside supports I shortened. One side let go when tire was stuffed and got bound up. Cleaned and welded them.
Reprogrammed trans controller downshifts, I think I have it mostly working how I want now.
Drive shaft angle change and tire re-balance seem good, No vibes up to 100. Goes from 65-100 pretty fast.
Reprogrammed trans controller downshifts, I think I have it mostly working how I want now.
Drive shaft angle change and tire re-balance seem good, No vibes up to 100. Goes from 65-100 pretty fast.
Levigarrett76
Zeus of the Sluice
Ive always wanted a 6r140 behind my 7.3 p-stroke. Now I'm wondering about a 6r80 becoming a reality.
rattle_snake
Fuckwits
Ford rates the 6R80 at '80'-> 800 ft lbs @ input shaft. There is a torque converter also, but it should live behind a mild tuned 7.3.
I don't think anyone makes a 7.3->mod adapter.
I don't think anyone makes a 7.3->mod adapter.
rattle_snake
Fuckwits
And the other half of the tire inflate/deflate/monitor system
Slight reconfiguration of wiring. One wire to switched ignition power.
Pondering location..... wiring, plumbing, etc.
Slight reconfiguration of wiring. One wire to switched ignition power.
Pondering location..... wiring, plumbing, etc.
rattle_snake
Fuckwits
Tried some 78-79 upper door seals on my 72, as cab and door are essentially the same.
Some improvement, but still not like a modern vehicle.
Some improvement, but still not like a modern vehicle.
reptillikus
ate lug
Did they not use the second door seal back in the early 70s?
rattle_snake
Fuckwits
Supposedly not. 78-up is what I understand.
TrikeKid
Junk Hoarder
Neither of my old Fords (70 and 76) have em.
holdmypocket
nil
When looking at your door mirrors, there’s a black rubber bit that surrounds it. If you look at it from the front, does any of that black rubber stick out from the chrome? Mine did. I took a razor to this to trim it flush (actually beveled it a bit even) and couldnt believe how much it reduced the wind noise in my case. My mirrors were new from LMC, FWIW. Might be worth checking out.
rattle_snake
Fuckwits
Interesting, thanks for sharing. I'll check that out.
rattle_snake
Fuckwits
I'm stuck in deliberation, analysis paralysis, on the compressor location, mounting, plumbing and wiring. Otherwise I have it all figured out.
Did some sketches of interior locations, but space is really limited with audio equipment, and I want more tool storage. Really need the new seat before I commit to anything behind or under the seat. Don't really want to clutter the engine bay with unrelated stuff, plus heat issue.
Also considering the area under left front of bed. Would need some type of enclosure, vented, drain provisions. Which lead to resurrecting the idea of adding a 2nd bed side tool box like on the right side to house the compressor and gear. Grafting in the whole deal is a big job and would take awhile to find a complete setup, so why not just use the existing one on the right side now?
Right aka 'curb side' is actually preferred side when airing up along the road. There is 4 ga high current power wiring run to cab back wall already for audio, and a 10 ga run through cab floor out to bed battery. So easy to add the compressor wiring to existing distribution block. Frame has GND stud in right place, and frame is well grounded to battery and engine block.
So the tool box location makes the most sense. Put one or maybe both air chucks in toolbox, or 2nd chuck on left side.
I didn't put in nitrous heater wiring yet, and compressor needs same run, so plan to put in a 4 conductor harness for those and future needs.
Something like this
But what about the hitch and tools that lived there? Well they still fit as space was used poorly.
I reorganized my tools, recovery gear and random crap into some rollup bags. Stuff I won't use much in toolbox bags (that is locked), and the rest in the cab under the seat for now.
Did some sketches of interior locations, but space is really limited with audio equipment, and I want more tool storage. Really need the new seat before I commit to anything behind or under the seat. Don't really want to clutter the engine bay with unrelated stuff, plus heat issue.
Also considering the area under left front of bed. Would need some type of enclosure, vented, drain provisions. Which lead to resurrecting the idea of adding a 2nd bed side tool box like on the right side to house the compressor and gear. Grafting in the whole deal is a big job and would take awhile to find a complete setup, so why not just use the existing one on the right side now?
Right aka 'curb side' is actually preferred side when airing up along the road. There is 4 ga high current power wiring run to cab back wall already for audio, and a 10 ga run through cab floor out to bed battery. So easy to add the compressor wiring to existing distribution block. Frame has GND stud in right place, and frame is well grounded to battery and engine block.
So the tool box location makes the most sense. Put one or maybe both air chucks in toolbox, or 2nd chuck on left side.
I didn't put in nitrous heater wiring yet, and compressor needs same run, so plan to put in a 4 conductor harness for those and future needs.
Something like this
But what about the hitch and tools that lived there? Well they still fit as space was used poorly.
I reorganized my tools, recovery gear and random crap into some rollup bags. Stuff I won't use much in toolbox bags (that is locked), and the rest in the cab under the seat for now.