1972 F-250 2wd to 4wd build

[rattle_snake]

Took the truck out to go wheelin' and camping, and trans developed a massive leak at bellhousing way out of town. Fucked, not going to make it another 1/2 mile. $600 tow.

Cobra ate another alternator. broke truck in the way of lift. good times.

 

[AK_F250]

Engine or transmission leak?

I'd look for some low profile canopy clamps, I know I'd find that massive sharp extrusion in my sleep the first night out. Eating up alot of space too.

 

[rattle_snake]

Severe trans leak. red waterfall out of bell. Shuffled trucks again and got it up on the lift. Not looking forward to taking trans out again. I did buy a tall trans jack for use with the lift.

Link to low-pro clamps?

 

[The Freeak]

Ugh. that sucks.

 

[rattle_snake]

Yes I was ready to drive this truck not perpetually R&R the transmission.

but

adapt and overcome
Truck is fighting me. Rear driveshaft gets completely compressed at full droop (on lift) so you can't remove it. drive shaft flange bolts were loose again. I used SS bolts on header collectors this time. 2 were seized and had to be cut off. TC shifter was loose again, different place though. There is one TC to adapter bolt that is a complete mother fucker. I bought a finer tooth ratchet just for that MF. One click at a time....

 

[Projectjunkie]

Yes I was ready to drive this truck not perpetually R&R the transmission.

but

adapt and overcome
Truck is fighting me. Rear driveshaft gets completely compressed at full droop (on lift) so you can't remove it. drive shaft flange bolts were loose again. I used SS bolts on header collectors this time. 2 were seized and had to be cut off. TC shifter was loose again, different place though. There is one TC to adapter bolt that is a complete mother fucker. I bought a finer tooth ratchet just for that MF. One click at a time....

I bought this in Feb, haven't needed it yet, but I imagine it'll save my ass some day

You ever call on that trash trailer with the toolbox I sent you? If the guy still has it and will take 2 bills for the door cutout lmk, randomly, I think I drive past his house last week

 

[arse_sidewards]

I bought this in Feb, haven't needed it yet, but I imagine it'll save my ass some day

You'll want that for removing a the converter from a Subaru EJ flex plate via the access hole in the top. You'll probably wind up tack welding the head in a particular orientation.

I use HF stubbys for that kind of shit so I had to weld an extra handle to mine.

 

[rattle_snake]

I bought this in Feb, haven't needed it yet, but I imagine it'll save my ass some day

You ever call on that trash trailer with the toolbox I sent you? If the guy still has it and will take 2 bills for the door cutout lmk, randomly, I think I drive past his house last week

Thanks for the link man. I see it is missing the latch. but still a good start. I'll watch it and see if I can find time to go get it.

You'll want that for removing a the converter from a Subaru EJ flex plate via the access hole in the top. You'll probably wind up tack welding the head in a particular orientation.

I use HF stubbys for that kind of shit so I had to weld an extra handle to mine.

The AA 6R80 adapter has one motherfucker of a bolt. can't get fingers, socket or any type of normal wrench to it. Got it loose with a stubby, takes fucking forever to get all the threads (with RTV) out. So I used a strip of grinder belt to spin the head enough times to remove.

 

[rattle_snake]

I re-adapted my 205 adapter to clear the newer style cross member transmission mount. Needed a zig-zag so chop chop and some boogers applied with eyes closed.

Bolted down on my latest tool purchase, telescopic trans jack.

Heavy bitch out again.

 

[AK_F250]

Link to low-pro clamps?

Any of the C clamp style with the bolt vertical underneath the bed rail will sit flush instead of sticking out like the two piece aluminum clamps with the bolt outside the rail. The trick is finding the perfect size to just clear the flanges on the bed and canopy, then you can cut the head off the bolt and weld a nut on so nothing really sticks down.

 

[rattle_snake]

Any of the C clamp style with the bolt vertical underneath the bed rail will sit flush instead of sticking out like the two piece aluminum clamps with the bolt outside the rail. The trick is finding the perfect size to just clear the flanges on the bed and canopy, then you can cut the head off the bolt and weld a nut on so nothing really sticks down.

Ah, OK. I have a set of those and they are not big enough with the rail reinforcement I added.
Considering making some out of some stock I have or, even bolts

 

[rattle_snake]

Could not get the transmission out of the truck due to the added length of the trans adapter. Tried lots of things top and bottom. Bell up against the firewall. Fuck. No gap from TC spacer to flex, not good. but flex is bent. Tightened up axail endplay is only +/0.01"

So had to pull motor out. Spent less time pulling front end off and motor out than I spend on one fucking bellhousing bolt before.

Only smart/easy way to determine what is wrong is to mock up on the floor. Next step is to crack it open and take a look.

 

[The Freeak]

Ugh.

 

[Snowracer]

so what was it? converter seal?

are you able to machine the tcase adapter to give more room on that bolt? im about to start ordering the stuff for a 6r80 swap so been keeping a close eye on your set up

 

[rattle_snake]

so what was it? converter seal?

are you able to machine the tcase adapter to give more room on that bolt? im about to start ordering the stuff for a 6r80 swap so been keeping a close eye on your set up

No, can't really do anything to help access of the lower left bolt (of the 6). Location of cross member is not ideal for accessing stuff either. My pickup has the floor hump access hole, and it could be enlarged to deal with this to work from the top. In a buggy, the floor could be removed.

 

[rattle_snake]

I pulled the converter seal, which was worn out, and managed to scratch the shit out of the bushing behind it. I though it had a roller bearing....
but I then realized that the bushing was already completely fucked and worn out. So that would explain the seal fail, but don't know if bushing was already worn before I put it in or if my new setup damaged it. 86000 miles vs 800.

New bushing on the way. Ford only sell the pump housing with seal/bushing, but have to open up trans and pull pump to install. TTY bolts, orings, ect

 

[rattle_snake]

Truck is back together and driving. The handful of fuck-you bolts in difficult locations went as expected. 205 went in easy with trans jack. I fixed some of the clearance issues but some things are just a bitch the way I built it. Not worth redoing unless I pull the drivetrain frequently.

I hope to not pull the drivetrain out again. Will see what fails next.

 

[rattle_snake]

Put some more miles on the old truck. I removed the sub box and amp for the new stuff so no tunes, and can listen to the truck itself. Guess I can get back on trying to tune the EFI better on gear changes at idle. I made a restrictor for the PCV valve similar to a fixed orifice type, but it didn't change anything.

 

[rattle_snake]

Finished up the subwoofer enclosure v2.0.
I used some 1/8 PVC foam sheets to make a raised diamond pattern to math the seat. Glued with trim adhesive that had just the right cure time. Made a jig for cutting smooth radii.

Rolled the end off to transition to the flat sides. Sanded the seams to look more like fabric stitching.

Marked out the cover shape and test fit before sewing up the corners.

Pattern came out OK. more contrast would be nice....

Removed the binding posts, filled the holes and rewired a pigtail hanging out. Lined the inside with Dacron to dampen, lower Q.

Installed the 10" Power slims. 1 ohm each, wired in series for 2 ohm load to amp. Enclosure done, well except for making new mounts. Not happy with the existing design.

 

[1Sinner]

Very nice work. Good idea on the foam.

 

[rattle_snake]

Thanks. The foam pattern came out good.

Eventually going to build new door panels with foam to give it some shape.

 

[Provience]

Thanks. The foam pattern came out good.

Eventually going to build new door panels with foam to give it some shape.

how thick is the cover fabric that you used? looks super smooth

stitching things, that's going to be one of the next major things i've gotta get myself learned on. makes for so much nicer, everything.

 

[rattle_snake]

It's just typical vinyl material. 1/16 or so. I use an old 1950 singer sewing machine that is robust, but not heavy duty upholstery machine.

 

[Provience]

It's just typical vinyl material. 1/16 or so. I use an old 1950 singer sewing machine that is robust, but not heavy duty upholstery machine.

Thanks, upholstery is neat stuff and still seems mystic to me good to know a "standard" machine is able to handle it

 

[rattle_snake]

ya the whole sewing thing is non-trivial. Material isn't ridged and no fence or guide to keep things strait.

With box done, moving on to the rest. Space is tight so made a rack to stack amps

Used sheet metal to make side panels

Amps installed and temporarily wired

Perfect match, as it is identical material.

 

[rattle_snake]

Some more pics of audio install.
Corner trim.

Used riv nuts most places. No loose washers or nuts.

Box is not tall enough to cover the crease in the cab wall. So made a two piece trim to wrap around. Truck has lots of brightwork, so added some here to go along.

All finished. Custom door panels next.

 

[rattle_snake]

One of my wheelin' buddies hit the Rigid parking lot sale and picked up some items too cheep to walk past. So I have some toys to install. Probably time to build a dedicated lighting wire harness. Use switch locations in ash tray, move trans shift buttons someplace else.

 

[Steve300xcw]

Goona bolt that light bar to the hood like all the cool kids?

 

[rattle_snake]

Ya bro, stacked 3 high! The 3 one the roof, and four on the bumper.

four 20s to replace the grill would give a good mad max look though.

 

[rockota]

Ya bro, stacked 3 high! The 3 one the roof, and four on the bumper.

four 20s to replace the grill would give a good mad max look though.

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