1968 Ford F-250 Prerunner Build

[arse_sidewards]

This build really drives home "the TTB is just a pair of control arms that happen to overlap" point but I don't think any of the simpletons who need to be told that are following.

 

[TTMotorsports]

OK i got the fuel injectors installed along with the fuel rails AND i mocked up the intake manifold and ordered some more aluminum bent pieces to finish connecting that intake side of turbo to throttle body. NO photos of that yet.

ALSO i noticed the driver side shocks upper mounts ended up higher than the passenger side so I was checking angles and everything and the mounts at the bottom were different side to side. So I spent today fixing the coilover mounts and started on the bypass mounts. Will get the bypass mounts figured out tomorrow and throw a couple more tubes on it and mock up driver side air bump as well.

 

[TTMotorsports]

So i got the outer tubes on the engine cage on the driver side on that other day AND i wanted to do the same and air bump on driver side but the upper shock mounts were definitely higher and different angles than the passenger side so I did some digging and somehow made the lower shock mount on coilover 1.5" farther inward AND the upper mount was almost 2" farther outward. Which made shock more vertical at bump and higher. Also I measured from the engine cage to bypass mount on pass side and the driver side was 1" higher on pass side. SO I redid the lower mount on both and upper mounts on both to match the passenger side and angles correct. Once the shocks were in correct spot I started on the driver air bump. This side the air bump will hit the top of the beam which is next to the bypass so I got the bump to where it would clear the bypass at droop. Now the passenger air bump engages around 1" after the driver air bump. So i am thinking i'll shorten the driver air bump but I don't think it'll cause any issues with tuning so will use it as is first and adjust if needed in future. Front bypass clears the air bump at 28" of travel which is more droop than I will be running.

 

[TTMotorsports]

OK got 2 more tubes from outer shock mounts to frame/bottom of a-pillar today. Also started the wastegate mounting and ordered a flex pipe for that as well since the turbo/exhaust is all hard mounted.

 

[TTMotorsports]

 

[TTMotorsports]

OK today I realized without any sort of floor structure I couldn't mock up a seat to determine pedal position or steering wheel location. So I frame up some 1" tube and made the panel large enough and it will be removable so I can pull transfer case easily in future. Also added a diagonal tube from inside of the sub frame at bottom of a-pillar to the radius arm mount to strengthen it all up a bit more. The vertical tube above the bottom bedcage tube was slightly angled from the old tube so I straightened that up and the bottom connecting tube as well. The tube had a little rust so I used the belt sander buffer that I got a new 1.5" x 30" scotch bright belt from empire abrasives and polished that tube up, Will post the details on the buffer next.

 

[TTMotorsports]

OK i kept seeing ad's for this belt sander buffer things for grinders online SO i finally bought one off walmart.com and I got a M14 one BUT the grinders run a 5/8-11 thread so I drilled the aluminum center out and tapped it to that and it works awesome on my m18 grinder. Also got a scotch bright belt 1.5" x 30 from empire abrasives and am blown away at how well this thing works and the rusty tube on my truck will be a thing of the past as you can see here. Also some of my air bumps cans had surface rust since they are 6 or 7 years old so buffed that off and mounted it on the truck.

Robot or human?

https://www.amazon.com/Attachment-Aluminum-Grinder-Replacement-Polishing/dp/B08C7WMLPV/ref=asc_df_B08C7WMLPV/?tag=91812054244-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=459730407112&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11146833230678672658&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031753&hvtargid=pla-1167369350592&psc=1

Also I paid around $40 for this but it's now much more expensive

I got a scotch bright belt from Empire Abrasives.

1-1/2" X 30" Sanding Belts | Empire Abrasives

The 1-1/2” x 30” sanding belt available in Aluminum Oxide, Zirconia, Ceramic or Surface Conditioning Non-Woven Material. Shop our various high quality belts today!

www.empireabrasives.com

 

[TTMotorsports]

OK so i got the inter cooler/intake tubes from the turbo to throttle body tacked up and made the mounts for the air/water inter cooler. I'm not going to be running much boost so the small size will be plenty for me. Also I added a tube from front of engine cage diagonally to inside edge of frame the will be behind radiator but forgot to take a photo of that.

 

[TTMotorsports]

OK got the wastegate hooked up the the exhaust after the turbo now. Also got some photos of the engine cage cross brace that goes behind the radiator.

 

[TTMotorsports]

OK added some more tubes for the firewall/floor as well. Mocked up front driveline to make sure I have as much cab space but still have it clear at full bump. It will clear by quite a bit, even more than I thought. So that's awesome.

 

[TTMotorsports]

got more of the floor/firewall structure/supports in place today. Next I will get the seat set in there on some wood to find steering wheel and pedal location. Busy tomorrow so no progress which makes me crazy I enjoy working on this thing everyday

 

[TTMotorsports]

OK so spent the day redoing the floor tubes to get the seats to sit low enough for head room when running a helmet. Also started on the firewall and got a couple pieces of plate done.

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

Nice work. This truck is going to be insane when it's done!

 

[TTMotorsports]

Thanks. Lots and Lots of work is going into this truck and I am hoping to get it to work and be reliable without too much work and too many trips.

 

[TTMotorsports]

OK started laying out the firewall on the passenger side which required bolting on the coilover and drooping it out and fitting the exhaust since that's going to be close to firewall and want to build it around that. Got the exhaust tacked up besides the pipe from muffle out the bedside. 4" is very big but was able to make it fit fairly easily with 2 90s that I cut to make them slightly less than 90deg and a straight piece of tubing to the dynomax muffler. Should work pretty good and will have slightly less room at passengers foot area but that's fine since they are along for a ride not having to work the pedals like i will be in drivers side

 

[TTMotorsports]

OK so I got a couple more pieces fit up on the passenger side firewall piece. Also started on the template on the middle piece of firewall. Will get that cut and fit up tomorrow.

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

Your gonna be finish welding on that truck for a month!

 

[TTMotorsports]

Yeah going to get to take it all apart to weld it for a week or more. Then paint it all. Then reassemble and hope it all works as it did before it was tore down

 

[TTMotorsports]

OK got the middle section of firewall on today and I ran out of material so I made some templates for the rest when i get more sheet metal tomorrow. Also changed the bottom tubes framing out the firewall to give the AC and cab a little more room.

 

[TTMotorsports]

OK worked a half day in shop since was busy this morning and got another sheet of plate and got a few of the templates made out of metal

 

[rattle_snake]

Floor is looking good. bead roll is nice touch. Looks like a lot of work/hours.

 

[TTMotorsports]

Tons of hours so far into this thing already and I haven't even gotten to the seat mounts or anything behind the rear axle.

Got a few more panels tacked in for the floor/firewall. Also for the intake manifold and fuel rails that I'm running I am running the pressure regulator off the return side of the fuel rails so I had to move the mount of the alternator up to clear a fitting on end of the fuel rail. Easy little bracket moved the alternator up around 2.5" and keeps it perfectly in line just need a slightly longer belt than before.

 

[TTMotorsports]

Got the driver seat mounted up. Did the rear outer tab that goes from the floor tube a-b pillar and the smaller 1" tube to cross member infront/above transmission. Also dumb luck the bead roller triangle panel on the rear of the panel the notch for tab went just up to the edge of it.

 

[1Sinner]

Fantastic work here. Great job bud.

 

[TTMotorsports]

OK now I believe i wouldn't have a problem but if I cut the corner of the t-case i surrounded by the red lines I shouldn't have a problem correct?

 

[1Sinner]

Appears to be a casting or machining boss. Should be fine

 

[TTMotorsports]

Yeah the 2 bolts are bottomed out since it doesn't go into the case and oil could leak out.

 

[CowBro]

Yeah the 2 bolts are bottomed out since it doesn't go into the case and oil could leak out.

You can cut off that entire hump and weld a plate over the opening if you want. Pretty common for rock buggies that want to keep the seats low or belly clearance up.

Truck looks awesome. TTB for life!

 

[TTMotorsports]

OK thank You. I will look into it and cut that off and i'll TIG weld on a new plate since it will just be to prevent the oil from leaking out.

 

[CowBro]

OK thank You. I will look into it and cut that off and i'll TIG weld on a new plate since it will just be to prevent the oil from leaking out.

I tried to find some pictures, if you search google for "Np205 shave" some posts by AgitatePancake pop up with one that he did while ago.