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1968 Ford F-250 Prerunner Build

OK got the bottom radiator cradle tacked in place and fitted the radiator hoses. The T-stat outlet I cut and will reweld it at a angle between stock and straight.

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OK I didn't like how tight the bottom radiator cradle was on the radiator, so I made a new one with the dimple dies and wider so I can install the radiator with rubber under it now. Also I was able to remove the down bars from back of the cab and lift the cab up and slide it back to be able to fully weld everything tomorrow.

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Well got my 39s swapped out for my new to me BFG Baja TA KR3 40s AND welded up the cage on top of the tubes and where I couldn't get to when the cab was in place. If anyone is interested in the BFG Baja T/A 39's they are in awesome shape and will sell all 6 for $1100

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OK so I picked up my Extra Large Triton Race Cooler today. They had it in stock and was somewhat local to me in Camarillo so I drove down today after my meeting nearby. Awesome quality and should keep the transmission nice and cool.

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OK so I picked up my Extra Large Triton Race Cooler today. They had it in stock and was somewhat local to me in Camarillo so I drove down today after my meeting nearby. Awesome quality and should keep the transmission nice and cool.

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i use to live 10 minutes from Camarillo while i was stationed at the SEABEE base Port Hueneme.

looking good bud
 
OK so got the cab cage fully welded and got a coat of primer and tomorrow will throw a coat of paint on the tops of the tubes and then when cab is back in and i'm done welding/fabricating on the inside i'll shoot a nice coat of paint on everything inside of cab included.
 
Alright Cab is back down and in final position, Started tacking up the firewall better and will finish patching that up once motor is out so I can get in there much easier. Also I am going to be installing forged connecting rods and pistons into this motor now since I was surprised at the cost of a good local engine shop said he would charge to balance and assemble the short block for me.

Started on the radiator hold down/upper mount as well. Dimple dies adds at least 100HP right there and will match the cage/cab tie in plates I will be doing as well. From the upper piece of plate above radiator there will be 2 straps that will go down to bottom radiator cradle and support it from moving up or down as well as forward or backwards. Got the radiator hoses in place as well. Will weld up the t-stat housing once it's all tore down and drive train is out of the truck for final welding/painting.

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Alright Cab is back down and in final position, Started tacking up the firewall better and will finish patching that up once motor is out so I can get in there much easier. Also I am going to be installing forged connecting rods and pistons into this motor now since I was surprised at the cost of a good local engine shop said he would charge to balance and assemble the short block for me.

Started on the radiator hold down/upper mount as well. Dimple dies adds at least 100HP right there and will match the cage/cab tie in plates I will be doing as well. From the upper piece of plate above radiator there will be 2 straps that will go down to bottom radiator cradle and support it from moving up or down as well as forward or backwards. Got the radiator hoses in place as well. Will weld up the t-stat housing once it's all tore down and drive train is out of the truck for final welding/painting.

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Not about the 100 HP but for sure the dolphins are happy. Lol lol
 
OK so I tightened down the radiator hold down and being thin metal it bowed it a bit. SO i added a boxed piece that will be welded to the top of it to stiffen it up AND it has more dimple dies too. The inside of the dimple dies will be tig welded fully and the box will be tig welded on as well. Just needs some small little welds the welds you see I did from the bottom to hold it nice and tight so it couldn't warp.

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Made a few more videos which I think kind of suck because not that much action of the work being done but still made them to update the build videos and explain how I did stuff.

 
OK not much done today but I got the radiator support tube on engine cage done with the interlocking ID tube clamps so it can be removed to pull the motor. Took off the intercooler, radiator and turbo w/exhaust Y pipe as well so I can finish mounting the steering to column and the hydroboost as well

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OK so my CNC plasmacam stopped working today so I ordered the new parts which will be here monday afternoon.

So i got a adjustable 2 pin spanner to tear apart my front coilovers to add 90deg fittings to the resi hose to make it clear everything. As you can see the harbor freight adjustable spanner wasn't big enough so I made a new leg for that and it worked great.

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Well no photos but been welding up the floor pans completely AND i made a removable tube cross member behind the t-case with a bushing to help support that as well as the rest of the drive train.
 
OK so spent today modifying the firewall to mount my GM hydroboost up to clear the tubes and shocks I recessed it into the firewall about 3" and made a little box to do that and cut the firewall pieces and tacked it in and once motor is out I will finish boxing it all in and welding it fully along with adding some thicker plate on inside with some small tubing to keep it from moving at all.

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Ok No photos but I started to make a nice 2 piece clamp setup for the ididit column and mock up steering column shaft/quickener mount so I'll get some photos of that once it's all in place and the wheel is turning the box and everything tomorrow.
 
OK so I sat in the truck again and figured out where the gas and brake pedals were going to go and the firewall I had tacked in place wasn't going to allow the gas pedal to be straight and it needed an inch or more forward movement. So i cut out one of the sheet metal panels in and made a new one. Then made a gas pedal with floor pivot, also installed 3/8" riv nuts to the floor for that to attach to.

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So I made and painted the brake pedal, with factory Silverado brake pedal pad and got it installed today. Also I have some 2 piece shaft clamps for the rear air bump style bumpstops bottom mount but they measured at 2.45" and the bumpstop measured at 2.55" so I machined out the center of them on my lathe till it is a perfect fit. Also on the brake pedal I have seen a few people do the adjustable foot pad on them to adjust the angle and I liked it so I did the same thing and then if I want to adjust the height of the pedal I can make a new one.

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OK so I have PRP 5 point harnesses for all 3 seats and I got the tabs done for them today. I also swapped out the eyelets on the 4.4 Bypasses to longer ones to accommodate the deep pocket on the trailing arms.

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OK so I got more Silicon Bronze mig wire and more of the floor panels welded up. Also painted my center seat mount as well and bolted some items back in so I can continue on with progress. Also the hose clamps on the can around a sawzall blade works amazing and was free since I had hose clamps already.

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How's the SB run in a mig? I've only ever used it with a tig but have been curious.
 
It works pretty decent BUT the weld causes a lot of splatter and from what i've read if it's not really clean joint that is what happens. A few joints were very clean ready to tig weld and the SB mig wire worked awesome and welded great.
 
Ok so today I made the engine side throttle cable bracket. I drilled/tapped the aluminum piece on throttle body for the control cable ball end. Also I bolted on the rear shocks to get started on the rear shock mounts, should work well with 3.0 Coilovers, 4.4 FOX bypasses and 2.5" Fox Air Bumps. Needless to say my sick 1997 Toyota Tercel Daily Driver has 217K miles and the starter stopped working. After push starting it for a week I finally am gonna break down tomorrow and get that fixed as well as do the timing belt and AC Compressor since the clutch failed on that, so gonna fix those items tomorrow.

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