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1968 Ford F-250 Prerunner Build

So what are you gonna do for the center shaft? With beams that long you're gonna need a lot of slip travel to not bind at full droop.

jhama78 said:
Driveline clearance maybe? Sand stuff is foreign to me so im taking a wild ass guess :shrug:

Awesome build, following along for updates. :smokin:
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If you want stupid long beams the pivot and truck end of the pass beam needs to occupy the space the 3rd wants to swing through. Solution is to make the beam with the diff the rear one.
 
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Making the axles cycle the entire travel is going to be hard and most likely limit the travel for sure compared to the shocks and such. Going to cut/sleeve stock axles to figure out lengths and where it limits it and in future I would love to order some custom axles shafts for this thing
 
Also with the np205 no front driveline spinning with hubs unlocked you can get a little more travel when in 2wd. I've seen people when in places they don't need 4x4 when offloading run longer limit straps to get the extra couple inches of travel and when in sand or places 4x4 is more fun run shorter straps and bumpstop spacers if needed so it will work throughout the travel
 
Got the passenger beam finished boxed in the back side. Mocked the beams up on the frame and got the cross member partially removed to not limit up travel. Will plate/box it back in after motor and everything is mounted and removed to weld the motor mounts and box the frame in.

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from top ball joint to the pivot is roughly 53" long i believe I measured them at. Truck will be 94" wide with my wheels and 39's and should look good with my mcqueen fiberglass that sits at 92" wide
 
ive seen plenty of 2wd equal length beams and they never look super long, but those look like they are a mile long.
 
Yeah they are pretty long singe I do have 5.5" BS wheels allowing the beams to be almost 1" longer and keeps the track width the same
 
OK no photos but got the ford NP205 mated up to the GM 4L80E. The 4l80 was a 2wd so I changed the rear freeze plug with a tiny hole in to a regular freeze plug to fix that issue. I also used a Ford NP205 3/8" Thick clocking ring and the GM Dorman 926-891 Transfer Case Housing Adapter. That worked good with using 3 holes to clock the t-case one direct and 3 holes to clock it the other direction which made the bolt pattern Almost symetrical. Close enough to drill out the adapter housing bolt holes to 1/2" from 7/16" and thread the studs in from the t-case side which put some marks on 3 of the holes which I was able to carbide burr them until it slipped on and off easily.

Never thing I did was box the frame from the crossmember back until the a-pillar to frame connection point. This will give me a good flat new surface to build motor mounts off of and gusset them as well. Plan for tomorrow is to build the motor mounting plates on the block and get this motor mounted in the truck along with starting the transmission crossmember.

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Also I did the Ford NP205 3/8" Thick clocking ring and the GM Dorman 926-891 Transfer Case Housing Adapter because I knew I could make it work and will post photos tomorrow of the notch in the adapter housing to clear the shift rail. Much cheaper than buying a ORD adapter this way.
 
Where do your radius arms land on those? Assuming as close to the C as possible to keep geometry the same in both sides?

And another question I’ve always had about these high end ttb builds; are parallel 4 links ever a thing to keep caster in check with all that travel or is it not really an issue?
 
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Yes the radius arms will have one mount on the beam end and another one onto the front tube above and below the axle to spread the load and help prevent them from bending. Driver beam will have one mount on beam end and a second near the diff mount as well. Also on rangers and other trucks with equal length beams they run same length radius arms BUT that puts the mounts on different spots on the frame, where Some truck run mounts same spot on each frame with a transmission crossmember between the mounts and result in slightly different length radius arms and it works perfectly fine still.
 
Are you gonna inboard the radius arms at the frame end? I always liked the resulting geometry of doing it that way.


AK_F250 said:
Where do your radius arms land on those? Assuming as close to the C as possible to keep geometry the same in both sides?

And another question I’ve always had about these high end ttb builds; are parallel 4 links ever a thing to keep caster in check with all that travel or is it not really an issue?
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Then you have ~4ft of radius arm caster doesn't change all that much. Not like you have tons of traction when the wheel is down near full droop any way.

You need to remember that the TTB is basically a ton of compromises stacked on each other. Trying to make it have good geometry in its extremes is kind of a fools errand. Better to look at the big picture and say "I want X in Y zone" and then build to that.
 
My plan is to do crossover steering with some beefy .375 wall 4130 tie rods since I will have to have a slight bend in them to clear everything.
 
Here's how much I clearanced the stock GM adapter housings. Also this is a stock 2WD 4l80e with the GM input shaft swapped int the np205. I cut 2 1/2" off the output shaft and it gets full engagment now.

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Motor is mocked up and transmission crossmember will be tackled next. Last 2 photos are the transmission bushing mount I am making to mount that. I will also be doing a rear t-case bushing mount as well.

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Here is how I used the NP205 clocking ring to work with the stock GM adapter housing. Also here is how it clocked the t-case nice and flat.

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well floor and firewall are gone AND i got the frame cut off and the new lower/upper link mounts tacked into place. I will remove them again to fully weld them but I want to cycle the rear suspension since on computer it cycles good but I like to measure and see it with my own 2 eyes.

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The Ford purists will be showing up any minute telling you that putting an LS motor in a Ford is the ultimate sin and that you just ruined that truck. :lmao:

Looking good man, can't wait to see the end result. :smokin:
 
Yeah ill do a short video talking about the accident and stuff as well after part 2 of the front end to let people know more details. Freak accident that I did nothing wrong that caused a life changing event
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
You make using plasma cam look easy. :smokin:

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Thanks. Have had this thing since 2013 and before that for atleast a year the neighbors shop had one that he gave me the program for and I would draw stuff in there so he could cut them out for me. When he moved and I sold my second race truck I found this thing used for a good deal and bought it
 
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