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'05+ Ford Super Duty Dana 60 Axle Tech & Info

Sean said:
I apologize for my laziness....I searched the 1st page, didnt' want to search 34 more.

Hey CDA 455 II can we get this info added to the first post?

Damn, 38º? That's lame...but it solidifies that for one particular build I'm just keeping my KP.
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You can search an entire thread from the forums search bar. When you click the search bar change “everywhere” to “this thread” when you’re viewing the thread.

There’s posts stating the joint is capable of 50 degrees but the factory setup is stopped at 38
 
Bebop said:
I think the knuckle is the stopping point. Not the joint.
Grind the knuckle, bam, more angle.
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Any idea how much more though? For this build extra steering would be advantageous since I won't have front dig and the wheelbase is long, but I don't want to get into custom shafts since it wouldn't really be worth it based on use.
 
fl0w3n said:
You can search an entire thread from the forums search bar. When you click the search bar change “everywhere” to “this thread” when you’re viewing the thread.

There’s posts stating the joint is capable of 50 degrees but the factory setup is stopped at 38
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Maybe you need a red skull. When I try to search just 'this thread', it will only let me do it "by Member".
 
Sean said:
Any idea how much more though? For this build extra steering would be advantageous since I won't have front dig and the wheelbase is long, but I don't want to get into custom shafts since it wouldn't really be worth it based on use.
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I think you can get really close to 50
 
Wait until someone confirms. I elected to trade angle for strength so I've never gone over 40 degrees or so.
But the knuckles don't care at all.
 
Bebop said:
Wait until someone confirms. I elected to trade angle for strength so I've never gone over 40 degrees or so.
But the knuckles don't care at all.
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I think I'm too far into this KP to quit now, but even getting 43-45º would probably be pretty beneficial. Frankly, I think I'm just salivating over a SD60 build b/c of the larger joints and HP.
 
Sean said:
I think I'm too far into this KP to quit now, but even getting 43-45º would probably be pretty beneficial. Frankly, I think I'm just salivating over a SD60 build b/c of the larger joints and HP.
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45° is pretty easy but not really sure how strong it will be, i have no experience with that setup. 1550 joints make it possible.
 
Sterlingfire said:
1550 joints make it possible.
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Not directly directed at Sterlingfire, but I see this a lot, and I'm not really sure what this means coming from most people. Is 45deg considered not possible with other joint sizes, or just that the size of the 1550 makes it possible to live at those angles? Is that a stock 1550 joint living at those angles or something more beefier. I say this since I know you can get 1480 joints to live at those angles, it just requires more $$$, although I think thats also still true with the 1550 stuff it just costs even more(you gain more though).

I had at one point considered buying stock 05+ SD60 1550 shafts as they were $400ish a set. I could buy a couple sets and have spares. But, based on info here the shafts themselves aren't that strong and I'd be better off spending money on chromo 1480 shafts and joints instead. 1480 stuff seems cheaper than 1550 stuff. I think the 1550 stuff just makes everything betterer at those angles in the long run, if you have the $$$ to buy it all upfront.
 
Ghetto Fab. said:
Not directly directed at Sterlingfire, but I see this a lot, and I'm not really sure what this means coming from most people. Is 45deg considered not possible with other joint sizes, or just that the size of the 1550 makes it possible to live at those angles? Is that a stock 1550 joint living at those angles or something more beefier. I say this since I know you can get 1480 joints to live at those angles, it just requires more $$$, although I think thats also still true with the 1550 stuff it just costs even more(you gain more though).

I had at one point considered buying stock 05+ SD60 1550 shafts as they were $400ish a set. I could buy a couple sets and have spares. But, based on info here the shafts themselves aren't that strong and I'd be better off spending money on chromo 1480 shafts and joints instead. 1480 stuff seems cheaper than 1550 stuff. I think the 1550 stuff just makes everything betterer at those angles in the long run, if you have the $$$ to buy it all upfront.
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From what I can tell, stock for stock, the 1550 stuff is reasonably priced....but as you mention, it's probably not as strong compared to chromo 1480....and Yukon 35 spline 1480s aren't crazy expensive if you find a decent deal. Very good point though as I already have a couple sets of 4340 1480 stuff to run in the KP 60 and if that's ultimately stronger than 1550 stock alloy....it probably doesn't make much sense to be swapping to the SD60 in my case since I'm not breaking LP R&Ps as it is.
 
Sean said:
From what I can tell, stock for stock, the 1550 stuff is reasonably priced....but as you mention, it's probably not as strong compared to chromo 1480....and Yukon 35 spline 1480s aren't crazy expensive if you find a decent deal. Very good point though as I already have a couple sets of 4340 1480 stuff to run in the KP 60 and if that's ultimately stronger than 1550 stock alloy....it probably doesn't make much sense to be swapping to the SD60 in my case since I'm not breaking LP R&Ps as it is.
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Right. Obviously the 1550 has more potential, but you still gotta spend the dollars to get there, and its usually more dollars. In the long run it might be the wiser choice, but I don't think I would ditch your chromo 1480 stuff to go stock 1550. Just saying 1550 makes 45deg+ steering seems a bit misleading to me. I have a set of stock 99-04 1480 shafts at home that will turn 45deg.

I think my comments on this particular issue come from the fact that its easy to get stuck in that internet mindset of if you don't have XYZ your going to break and become a trail plug, when in reality everyones situation is completly different and what one guy needs to survive one trail may not be necessary for the next. We all have different rigs, wheeling on different terrain, with different drivers. I know the general consensus was that stock toyota birfields were like glass, but I never broke any. I've also never broken any stock d44 shafts, or D60 shafts. I'm probably not hitting things as hard as others, nor do I get out as often as I'd like, but thats over 20yrs of wheeling the sierras, JV, and a bit of sand hollow. Its hard to know that limit of spending more than you can afford, vs not spending enough. I suppose in some sense, you'll never know if you spent too much money as it never breaks, but you'll always know when you spend too little.:flipoff2:
 
Ghetto Fab. said:
Not directly directed at Sterlingfire, but I see this a lot, and I'm not really sure what this means coming from most people. Is 45deg considered not possible with other joint sizes, or just that the size of the 1550 makes it possible to live at those angles? Is that a stock 1550 joint living at those angles or something more beefier. I say this since I know you can get 1480 joints to live at those angles, it just requires more $$$, although I think thats also still true with the 1550 stuff it just costs even more(you gain more though).

I had at one point considered buying stock 05+ SD60 1550 shafts as they were $400ish a set. I could buy a couple sets and have spares. But, based on info here the shafts themselves aren't that strong and I'd be better off spending money on chromo 1480 shafts and joints instead. 1480 stuff seems cheaper than 1550 stuff. I think the 1550 stuff just makes everything betterer at those angles in the long run, if you have the $$$ to buy it all upfront.
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From my understanding(and it could easily be wrong) it's easier(stock for stock, how would we know what his current axle was built with) that it's less work(i.e. grinding the ears and inside yoke) to get the 1550 to turn 45° and keep them alive... this comment was made well before anyone knew his kingpin had chromo shit in it. I think anyone in this game knows that going to 1550 chromo will ultimately be more expensive to step up to. I suppose i could've stated stock vs stock too though:homer:

And my understanding of the 1480 vs 1550 and 45° could be off too :flipoff2:
 
Sterlingfire said:
From my understanding(and it could easily be wrong) it's easier(stock for stock, how would we know what his current axle was built with) that it's less work(i.e. grinding the ears and inside yoke) to get the 1550 to turn 45° and keep them alive... this comment was made well before anyone knew his kingpin had chromo shit in it. I think anyone in this game knows that going to 1550 chromo will ultimately be more expensive to step up to. I suppose i could've stated stock vs stock too though:homer:

And my understanding of the 1480 vs 1550 and 45° could be off too :flipoff2:
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No worries, lots of variables here. I wasn't trying to pick out your post in particular, just that comment.

I know in a thread here(maybe this thread?), it was mentioned that the stock SD60 35spline shaft would break before the 1550 u-joint. I'm guessing that's with stockish steering angles. I wonder if the 1550 joint strength at 45deg is a better match to the 35 spline shaft than it is at 30ish deg. Of course I'm not sure that really accomplishes anything either.
 
TrailTamer said:
looks like they'll accept full circle snap rings as-is?
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RustyC said:
There looks to be enough material removed in the machining process to fit a full circle c-clip. If not minor work with a file would fix it.


1550 full circle.jpg
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I think these 1550 axle shaft assemblies with spicer life series u-joints and full circle snap rings will last a long time for recreational wheelers with dignity drivers.

Considering on how cheap they are, not much to lose to just try before spending big bucks on a set of 4340/300m axle shaft set.
 
TrailTamer said:
I think these 1550 axle shaft assemblies with spicer life series u-joints and full circle snap rings will last a long time for recreational wheelers with dignity drivers. pussies
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FIFY



:flipoff2:
 
The 1550 vs 1480 lowers the bearing surface load on the cap and cross.
In stock form this might mean not breaking the stock cross or having longer service life.
In aftermarket non needle bearing U joints it comes down to service life. 1550 will last longer before the grease, brass, cups, or whatever needs to be changed. Some racers have to rebuild every race. Some rec. wheelers regrease every day.
It sounds like stock 1550 U joints are a near match for the shaft strength. If you can keep the stock shafts alive, the strongest needle u joints can keep up with the shafts and have a long service interval.
Once you go alloy shafts you might as well go non needle U joints and deal with the service at that point 1550 will have a longer service interval.
If I can’t keep stock 1550 shafts alive long enough. I’ll probably go RCV, I don’t want to do that much maintenance.
 
gozuki said:
I have 3 new long sides no one wants to pay shipping on
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I ran into the same problem parting out my kingpin axle.

pirateship.com

not sure how but it prints ups labels for about half of what ups site quotes for.
 
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