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Who here at IRATE4X4 builds axles for a living?Shipping sucks from brazil. but another option if someone wants to build an axle
Housing 70 HIGH PINION
Exclusive heavy-duty nodular iron housing, more ground clearance than any 70-basic axle Body Housing without tubes (it´s can ordered special proyect)Only the highest quality nodular iron is used in a solid axle industries' housingIncludes our own heavy duty nodular iron cover Housing accepts...knbaxles.com
No.When prepping the axle for a truss, does this get cut off?
The center off the coils will be narrower where the truss puts the coil, then the original d44. but if i space it out, the coil will hit that piece. If im a couple inches narrower on the coils will that be fine?
I saw picture on social media on rear steer buggy broke a balljoint knuckle with machined arms. But he tore the hole for the upper ball joint. Steering arm didn’t fail.
You can cut it off just fine if you don't need it for shocks or anything like that... use a Porta band
Is that your truss sitting mocked up in the picture or just a random internet picture? If that's your truss I'd just leave it and fill the gap with some metal because it'll greatly reduce the unsupported length of the upper C and increase the effective web height of the axle in that area. Sure, you could cut it off and then put more metal back to do the same thing but why.When prepping the axle for a truss, does this get cut off?
Curious if you think anything from the machining weakened that knuckle? I guess it didn’t break at the flat…Pics of failed knuckle and fix.
Not sure. On karnage welders Instagram page.
You can cut it no problem, the C is solid.When prepping the axle for a truss, does this get cut off?
Since you’re a bouncer guy. How common are superduty knuckle failures? And what do you see?
I haven't seen any failure.
That looks like a terrible ball joint eliminator install..might have contributed to that failure?
I was wondering if you could put too much of a press fit in to these. When I pressed mine in it took a lot more force than a set of ball joints. I imagine they’re machined slightly bigger to account for slightly worn out bores if ball joints have been in and out a few times. I didn’t put my calipers on anything when I put it together unfortunately.
I can only base my design off of pictures. The "key'd" arms i've seen just seem to just have a notch around the caliper lug. My idea is different. So, I guess I'm looking for a reason it wont work. As for pulling the ball joint out, that would be the right time to weld flat bar around the top. Thanks
Most assuredly you could start some cracks with too much press..or pushing the thing in crooked. In that pic the weld job looks like shit.
It looks like a field repair to me...flux core?
Not the field repair…that first pic with the tire still on wedged in the rocks. Look at the little bit of rusty weld remaining on the knuckle..I’m no pro but that’s zero penetration.
I guess I'm not looking at it right....I thought the pic with the weld was labeled as the 'fix'.
This pic ..that horseshoe shaped area on the knuckle right where the failure happened..that’s the ball joint eliminator tearing out.
I know....that's labeled the 'failed knuckle'. The way it was posted, it just looked like it was out of order. Like the failure happened and the 'fix' pic was the flux core looking weld. But I could be totally off....that's just how I took it.This pic ..that horseshoe shaped area on the knuckle right where the failure happened..that’s the ball joint eliminator tearing out.
