'05+ Ford Super Duty Dana 60 Axle Tech & Info

[arse_sidewards]

Random question after scanning the thread and not seeing it...

Are the knuckles on the 2wd beam axles the same as 4wd? How much else crosses over?

I occasionally see them for sale fairly cheap and seem like a good start for a build I have in mind.


Random ebay pic

Literally the whole thing is the same. What's missing is the pumpkin and shafts. IDK how they deal with the holes in the UB or if they run different 2WD UBs.

 

[TrailTamer]

They’re “same” except for the cast looking center.

 

[fl0w3n]

Literally the whole thing is the same. What's missing is the pumpkin and shafts. IDK how they deal with the holes in the UB or if they run different 2WD UBs.

This only applies to 450 and 550

Post in thread ''05+ Ford Super Duty Dana 60 Axle Tech & Info'
'05+ Ford Super Duty Dana 60 Axle Tech & Info

See my post here where I was looking at a 2wd 09 250 and was corrected that only 450/550 are what Arse said. And keep in mind the 450/550 have bigger knuckles and Cs

 

[the_white_shadow]

You can run 250/350 unit bearings on 450/550 knuckles. I used 450/550 Cs and knuckles on a 14B rear steer axle we built on my last rig.

 

[evantwheeler]

I've looked and searched the internet, but cannot find definitive answers on a couple of questions.

1. On the first page, it says factory tube OD is 3.75", but the Busted Knuckle website says 3.5" OD. Can anyone confirm if all housings were the same, and what OD is correct?
2. Is there a definitive model year when ford started putting the 1550 u-joint shafts in the factory housings? Is there an easy way to visually identify an axle that has the upgraded joints? The factory shafts will be fine for my needs (40's and drive like a bitch), so I'd like to just buy an axle with the upgraded u-joints even if I have to pay a little more up front. Looks like the 1550 Dana/Spicer shafts are about $400 or so in total +tax from Summit or ECGS.
3. Did the factory wheel backspacing on the SRW equipped trucks ever change as time went on? First page says 05-07 backspacing is 5.5" for 17" wheels. The 17" wheels I plan to use have 6-7/8" backspacing, which is OK because I will be needing to use 8x170 to 8x6.5 adapters, but I would like to stay as narrow as I can and just trying to get a feel for what I can get away with without brake clearance issues. I know there was a change in the early teens with larger rotors on the front axle, did Ford go to 20" wheels only at that point in time for increased brake to wheel clearance, or did they still offer 17" with high backspacing?


I am looking to build a passenger side drop Tundra 10.5" differential with basically all of the factory stuff from the SD front. I don't wheel hard, I just want to put in a front axle that is comparable in strength to my new rear axle (another Tundra 10.5" diff axle). I picked up a couple complete Tundra takeout axles for cheap, I got two 4.88 gearsets for $100 each, and have the ARB rear locker already. Planning on spool for the front with 35 splines to accept the OEM ford axle shafts. I am hoping to not have to do a fabricated housing up front as I do not beat my shit, but I may be forced to for axle shaft seals and also ability to put the passenger side C where it needs to go. I haven't got that far into planning. I am ready to buy an SD axle to start planning and have a lead on clean ones for $850 from a neighbor, but I want to buy one that gives me the 1550 u-joints from the factory and also has a 3.5" OD housing tube if they were indeed offered in that diameter.

 

[Bebop]

1. On the first page, it says factory tube OD is 3.75", but the Busted Knuckle website says 3.5" OD. Can anyone confirm if all housings were the same, and what OD is correct?

BK uses an adapter sleeve to reduce the tube down to 3.5 There are no 3.5" tubes in 05+ axles.

2. Is there a definitive model year when ford started putting the 1550 u-joint shafts in the factory housings? Is there an easy way to visually identify an axle that has the upgraded joints?

uhhh yeah... look at the joints?

 

[evantwheeler]

BK uses an adapter sleeve to reduce the tube down to 3.5 There are no 3.5" tubes in 05+ axles.


uhhh yeah... look at the joints?

Thanks for the info.

Did some more digging. Both 1480 & 1550 have the same bearing cap diameter of 1.375, the 1480 has cap to cap dimensions of 4.188 and the 1550 has cap to cap dimensions of 4.964".

https://www.danaaftermarket.com/spicer-automotive/automotive-driveshaft/universal-joints/part/universal-joint/5-155X?cat1=0&str=5-155X&cp=0&catalog=PIMS_NA&partType=PART

https://www.danaaftermarket.com/spl-automotive/automotive-driveshaft/universal-joints/part/universal-joint/SPL55-1X?cat1=0&str=SPL55-1X&cp=0&catalog=PIMS_NA&partType=PART

 

[gozuki]

I have a long side 1550 shaft in California for $100

 

[Sean]

So I only control F'd the first seven pages....but are the unit bearings all the same from '05+ F250 to F550? Obviously the F250/350 have 8 lugs...and the F450/550 have 10....but are the bearings physically the same size or are F450/550 bearings/cups larger like I'd assume? Trying to find out if they interchange (other than being 8 vs. 10 lug) or not; the F450/550 ones are substantially more expensive on places like RockAuto....so I'm guessing it's more than just an extra 2 lugs.

 

[fl0w3n]

So I only control F'd the first page....but are the unit bearings all the same from '05+ F250 to F550? Obviously the F250/350 have 8 lugs...and the F450/550 have 10....but are the bearings physically the same size or are F450/550 bearings/cups larger like I'd assume? Trying to find out if they interchange (other than being 8 vs. 10 lug) or not; the F450/550 ones are substantially more expensive on places like RockAuto....so I'm guessing it's more than just an extra 2 lugs.

When you go to the forum search bar, there’s a drop down that you can switch to say search “this thread” instead of “everywhere”. Way more useful than control F

Not from personal experience, but what I remember in this thread, they are interchangeable unit bearings. So you can throw 8 lug on a 450/550 axle.

 

[RPS1030]

When you go to the forum search bar, there’s a drop down that you can switch to say search “this thread” instead of “everywhere”. Way more useful than control F

For Red Skulls

 

[Sean]

When you go to the forum search bar, there’s a drop down that you can switch to say search “this thread” instead of “everywhere”. Way more useful than control F

Not from personal experience, but what I remember in this thread, they are interchangeable unit bearings. So you can throw 8 lug on a 450/550 axle.

Yeah, went through 7 pages so far.....will keep looking but as you said, they seem interchangeable, which is a bit odd to me considering the GVWR for an F450/550 has to be quite a bit higher than an F250/350 (but maybe not at the front axle?).

I'm mainly trying to determine wheel bearing cup size. WOD/Crane and Busted Knuckle both sell weld on cups for unit bearings and the Crane video made a big point to say they were F450 size....but from what I can tell, any 05+ SD unit bearing should work. I just want to make sure that whatever cup I get matches up to the right unit bearing.

 

[HYDRODYNAMIC]

I have 2005 250/350 8 lug bearing in a 2005 F550 with stock axles and hubs. Same bearing housings. Different flanges.

 

[Sean]

I have 2005 250/350 8 lug bearing in a 2005 F550 with stock axles and hubs. Same bearing housings. Different flanges.

Thanks....guess that puts it to bed. Must be the same GVWR b/c the front ends are the same.

 

[u2slow]

Thanks....guess that puts it to bed. Must be the same GVWR b/c the front ends are the same.

What I have read before is the 250/350 is rated for #6k and the 450/550 #7k.

 

[Sean]

May not be the right place to ask but if guys are redrilling the unit bearings to 8 on 6.5....are they also redrilling the rotors or is there an off the shelf alternative 8 on 6.5 rotor with the right width and hat height to work with the Ford calipers?

 

[Rangerrod]

May not be the right place to ask but if guys are redrilling the unit bearings to 8 on 6.5....are they also redrilling the rotors or is there an off the shelf alternative 8 on 6.5 rotor with the right width and hat height to work with the Ford calipers?

I Redrilled unit bearings with motobilt jig then used the unit bearing as a jig for the rotors. In my 99-04 unit bearing the jig didn’t sit super tight to the journal on the unit bearing. So I centered it and clamped it down. Other brands maybe different or 05+ unit bearing may have bigger journal.

 

[u2slow]

May not be the right place to ask but if guys are redrilling the unit bearings to 8 on 6.5....are they also redrilling the rotors or is there an off the shelf alternative 8 on 6.5 rotor with the right width and hat height to work with the Ford calipers?

I probably read it in this thread.... Drill the rotor holes out to 3/4" and they slide onto the 6.5" pattern.

 

[Sean]

I probably read it in this thread.... Drill the rotor holes out to 3/4" and they slide onto the 6.5" pattern.

Hmmm...interesting. I guess a little extra slop in the hole doesn't really matter since the rotors just slide over the studs anyway

 

[jeepkevin]

The rotors are hub centric to the hub bearing. I redrilled rotors to 13/16" and they fit over studs on new 8x6.5 pattern. I used the Barnes 4x4 drill jig, has a drill bushing 19/32" but ended up cleaning up holes with a 37/64" so that the factory size studs would press back in. You could stack the rotors on hub and drill everything at once, it also fits that way.

Our rig is a daily driver and it's smooth as silk, no out of round/balance feel at all.

 

[Sean]

The rotors are hub centric to the hub bearing. I redrilled rotors to 13/16" and they fit over studs on new 8x6.5 pattern. I used the Barnes 4x4 drill jig, has a drill bushing 19/32" but ended up cleaning up holes with a 37/64" so that the factory size studs would press back in. You could stack the rotors on hub and drill everything at once, it also fits that way.

Our rig is a daily driver and it's smooth as silk, no out of round/balance feel at all.

Thanks for that info.

 

[Sean]

Drill jigs for 8 on 170mm to 8 on 6.5

05-UP Super Duty Dana 60 8x6.5" Drill Jig

If you are looking to convert your 05-up Super Duty Dana 60 axle to an 8x6.5" lug pattern to match your 1 ton rear, we have you covered with our lug pattern drill jig. We designed this drill jig with the end user in mind to insure ease of use and longevity. Included with the jig is an...

barnes4wd.com

Drill Guide SD60 to 8 on 6.5 for redrilling Super Duty Hubs

This handy drilling guide is used to mark the hole centers when converting the wheel stub bolt pattern on a Ford Super Duty front axle wheel hubs from 8 bolt on 170mm to 8 bolt on 6.5” bolt circle diameter. Simply place the drilling guide over the stock wheel studs, then use the small holes & a...

motobilt.com

The BKOR one doesn't seem to offer much over the Motobilt and I'd think it might be harder to get a tapered punch through the 3/8" thick ring as opposed to the 1/8" Motobilt.

DIY Drill Guide for Super Duty Unit Bearings

Are you wanting to run 8 x 6.5" bolt pattern but are nervous about drilling your existing hubs? Problem solved! The Busted Knuckle DIY drill jig helps you redrill your existing hubs with precision and speed. Slide it on your hub, center punch the hole locations, and be on the trail in no time...

bustedknuckleoffroad.com

Anyone have better brand suggestions or know if a drill bushing is really needed?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

All depends how accurate you want the holes to be I guess, lol.

 

[Rangerrod]

Drill jigs for 8 on 170mm to 8 on 6.5

05-UP Super Duty Dana 60 8x6.5" Drill Jig

If you are looking to convert your 05-up Super Duty Dana 60 axle to an 8x6.5" lug pattern to match your 1 ton rear, we have you covered with our lug pattern drill jig. We designed this drill jig with the end user in mind to insure ease of use and longevity. Included with the jig is an...

barnes4wd.com

Drill Guide SD60 to 8 on 6.5 for redrilling Super Duty Hubs

This handy drilling guide is used to mark the hole centers when converting the wheel stub bolt pattern on a Ford Super Duty front axle wheel hubs from 8 bolt on 170mm to 8 bolt on 6.5” bolt circle diameter. Simply place the drilling guide over the stock wheel studs, then use the small holes & a...

motobilt.com

The BKOR one doesn't seem to offer much over the Motobilt and I'd think it might be harder to get a tapered punch through the 3/8" thick ring as opposed to the 1/8" Motobilt.

DIY Drill Guide for Super Duty Unit Bearings

Are you wanting to run 8 x 6.5" bolt pattern but are nervous about drilling your existing hubs? Problem solved! The Busted Knuckle DIY drill jig helps you redrill your existing hubs with precision and speed. Slide it on your hub, center punch the hole locations, and be on the trail in no time...

bustedknuckleoffroad.com

Anyone have better brand suggestions or know if a drill bushing is really needed?

I opened up the motobilt one and used a drill bushing on all of them. I figured between myself and buddies it will get some use. Everything bolts up to wheels. Some of them are .005 I’m not worried about it.

 

[Sean]

I opened up the motobilt one and used a drill bushing on all of them. I figured between myself and buddies it will get some use. Everything bolts up to wheels. Some of them are .005 I’m not worried about it.

Where'd you source the drill bushings? McMaster or somewhere else?

 

[Oddball]

Can anyone tell me what a stock steering yoke / "C" is made out of? I can tell it is forged. I'm concerned about making the metal brittle when heating it for a shrink fit.

 

[gt1guy]

Can anyone tell me what a stock steering yoke / "C" is made out of? I can tell it is forged. I'm concerned about making the metal brittle when heating it for a shrink fit.

I don't think you're getting a 'C" hot enough to make any changes when heating it up to slip on a tube. Remember, the "C" will grow more from room temp to 200* than it will from 400* to 600*. Also cooling the tube beforehand will help too.

 

[arse_sidewards]

Remember, the "C" will grow more from room temp to 200* than it will from 400* to 600*.

 

[Oddball]

When i did the short side, it was easy shrinking onto the original tube. But when I attempted the retubed side it almost ended in disaster. Ive already turned the C blue once and it didnt get on more that 3/8 before setting. I used a 20 lb sledge to beat it off before it was really to late. So round two will involve dry ice and heat. Ive also flapper disked a bit off. 450 i think it really pushing it for the C, but if its mild enough, shouldnt be a issue. A truss is in its future as well. Problem is, my borrowed bore gauages and 4" mic went home so im going by brail.

 

[TTRAxle&FAB]

The factory tubes are 3.7400 +/- .002. That's what the Cs are machine for. Gonna have to buff the tube to get that thing to fit if you didn’t prep the retube.

I heat to 400⁰-500⁰ with a .002 press fit no issues so far.