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'05+ Ford Super Duty Dana 60 Axle Tech & Info

So has any one been able to do a cut and turn on an axle with the stock radius arm bracket to give better pinion angle and caster
 
I don't believe I saw it here previously, but East Coast Gear does 4340 1550 joint shafts for these axles. That's not surprising, but for $100 more than the 35spl shafts they will do 40spl. So if you already need to buy a locking carrier and want to go to drive flanges, the cost to go from 35pl to 40spl is $100.

Of course they aren't free, shafts alone are $1230 list for 4340 40 spline.
 
Rip said:
So has any one been able to do a cut and turn on an axle with the stock radius arm bracket to give better pinion angle and caster
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If you cut it between the C's and brackets, why woould you have any kind of issue ?
 
Just haven't seen it done yet the brackets are pretty damn close to the knuckle I keep looking and all I find are kingpin cut and turn articles
 
An enterprising vendor should put together a complete rebuild kit for these, seals, ball and U joints, bearings and brakes.
 
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Grendel said:
An enterprising vendor should put together a complete rebuild kit for these, seals, ball and U joints, bearings and brakes.
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Will only fly if you can undercut the individual prices considerably. Rockauto has kits and the savings aren't there.

Freight for rotors/calipers (weight) would kill me even if I needed all the other stuff. I find some mainstream 'free-freight with $100 order" vendor to eat it.
 
u2slow said:
Will only fly if you can undercut the individual prices considerably. Rockauto has kits and the savings aren't there.

Freight for rotors/calipers (weight) would kill me even if I needed all the other stuff. I find some mainstream 'free-freight with $100 order" vendor to eat it.
Click to expand...
That's what I am looking for. Free shipping with over $XXX
 
Anyone know why the dually variants use course thread on the wheel hub?

The adapters that bolt on use fine thread wheel studs
 
TrailTamer said:
Probably to prevent people from mix and match things.
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Wouldn't that be the other way around? All one thread, to prevent someone putting a course thread nut onto a fine thread stud?
 
WaterH said:
Are the dually wheels “lug centric“ vs “hub centric” for standard ?
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You might have it backwards. Most SRW wheels have a tapered lug nut in my experience, whereas many dually lugnuts will be for a flat face. But I'm not familiar with many newer trucks.
 
WaterH said:
Are the dually wheels “lug centric“ vs “hub centric” for standard ?
Click to expand...
Dually wheels look flat. I don't have any Ford ones here though.

The extensions match the hub. I've put SRW wheels onto the dually wheel bearing, with course lug nuts

I've also put SRW wheels onto the dually extensions to go really wide, with fine lug nuts.


The extension fit is hub centric.
 
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The 99+ ford superduties are all hub centric - srw and drw. Early trucks were coarse thread and then went fine (halfway in the 99-04 run?). Maybe they flip-flopped again.

Many aftermarket wheels in 8x170mm have tapered seats and you need to change the lugnuts to match.
 
I debated putting this in the “bible”. We’ll see what comes of it and maybe it can be moved.

I have a SD 60 in my project truck. If you are firmiller with them, you know that they have short knuckle arms. They are so short that the stock tie rod can not be run straight from knuckle to knuckle. If you try it, it will hit the diff on a turn. Im not sure why Ford or Dana did this, but the way they solve it is with ”bent“ tie rod ends. These are not stock and has high steer, but you can see what I’m talking about. (Not my truck)

B2DF19F5-87FD-496C-8C11-F83F36AA3638.jpeg


On my project truck, I installed full hydro and you can see how I kept the stock low steer, tie rod here. I basically swapped the steering box for a cylinder.

7A9CAD12-6399-425F-805D-586088A6811E.jpeg


The nice way to handle this to make your high steer high enough to run straight across like my favorite axle on Hydro-Dynamic’s “Dust Buggy”.

F5BBD22D-BD96-4C81-BE6F-2D11CF0FB5A1.jpeg


While my project truck steering has worked flawless during my testing, I’m considering changing it to a more conventional full hydro mount. The main reason is I can’t stand the “low steer” tie rod. It is actually the lowest part of the truck on the pax side of the diff. I would love to copy the dust buggy, but I can’t have all that high because of interference with my frame. The truck is too far along to modify the frame, so I’m stuck with my cylinder about the same height as it is now. Of course, with the more conventional mounting, I will get rid of the lower tie rod.

While contemplating this, I realized something. If you mount the cylinder forward enough to clear the diff, the two links will angle back a bit To the knuckle. When you turn in either direction, the knuckle arm will pivot back some more. If you visualize this from the top, you will see that the effect will be increased “toe in” the more you turn. This would even be true on the Dust Buggy axle, but very slight because he starts from straight. The stock tie rod would not change the toe at all as it turns. I don’t think any of this would matter on a purely trail rig. In my case, I know my project is going to see allot of street miles. I’m worried about destroying handling.

Can any of you steering experts confirm I’m worried about nothing?
 
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WaterH said:
Can any of you steering experts confirm I’m worried about nothing?
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I'm no expert, but you'll be fine.

That said I'd put some high steer arms on this unit and figure out how to do it better than slapping some tie-rods with a shitty angle.
 
WaterH said:
I debated putting this in the “bible”. We’ll see what comes of it and maybe it can be moved.

.....

Can any of you steering experts confirm I’m worried about nothing?
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Run tie rods on underside of high steer arms?
 
WaterH said:
I debated putting this in the “bible”. We’ll see what comes of it and maybe it can be moved.

I have a SD 60 in my project truck. If you are firmiller with them, you know that they have short knuckle arms. They are so short that the stock tie rod can not be run straight from knuckle to knuckle. If you try it, it will hit the diff on a turn. Im not sure why Ford or Dana did this, but the way they solve it is with ”bent“ tie rod ends. These are not stock and has high steer, but you can see what I’m talking about. (Not my truck)

View attachment 487440

On my project truck, I installed full hydro and you can see how I kept the stock low steer, tie rod here. I basically swapped the steering box for a cylinder.

View attachment 487442

The nice way to handle this to make your high steer high enough to run straight across like my favorite axle on Hydro-Dynamic’s “Dust Buggy”.

View attachment 487445

While my project truck steering has worked flawless during my testing, I’m considering changing it to a more conventional full hydro mount. The main reason is I can’t stand the “low steer” tie rod. It is actually the lowest part of the truck on the pax side of the diff. I would love to copy the dust buggy, but I can’t have all that high because of interference with my frame. The truck is too far along to modify the frame, so I’m stuck with my cylinder about the same height as it is now. Of course, with the more conventional mounting, I will get rid of the lower tie rod.

While contemplating this, I realized something. If you mount the cylinder forward enough to clear the diff, the two links will angle back a bit To the knuckle. When you turn in either direction, the knuckle arm will pivot back some more. If you visualize this from the top, you will see that the effect will be increased “toe in” the more you turn. This would even be true on the Dust Buggy axle, but very slight because he starts from straight. The stock tie rod would not change the toe at all as it turns. I don’t think any of this would matter on a purely trail rig. In my case, I know my project is going to see allot of street miles. I’m worried about destroying handling.

Can any of you steering experts confirm I’m worried about nothing?
Click to expand...
Unfortunately your attachments are not showing for me.
 
I can't figure out how to search. But I'm trying to find the difference in brakes over the years of all Balljount D60s. Last I read I can bolt ~2008+ calipers right to my 97 axle. I'm curious if this is true on the 13+ and if any of the F450/550 stuff uses the same caliper spacing.

My other option is complete 99-04 F450/550 knuckle swap. Then pull adapters and run 8x170 18 or 20 wheels.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I can't figure out how to search. But I'm trying to find the difference in brakes over the years of all Balljount D60s. Last I read I can bolt ~2008+ calipers right to my 97 axle. I'm curious if this is true on the 13+ and if any of the F450/550 stuff uses the same caliper spacing.

My other option is complete 99-04 F450/550 knuckle swap. Then pull adapters and run 8x170 18 or 20 wheels.
Click to expand...
Im not sure one 99-04 brakes but 05+ have a much biger mounting bolt spacing
 
WaterH said:
Can any of you steering experts confirm I’m worried about nothing?
Click to expand...
I don't see any room to mount the cylinder any higher. There is nothing wrong with the tie rod or the cylinder to knuckle.
What I can not see is if the cylinder has a trunnion pivot, If so you are good, if not it should have bound up and you have problems.
The cylinder ports should be pointing up to purge air and protect them.

Here is what I would do.
Mount the cylinder solid to the axle as close as you can get the free rod to the pumpkin.
Use four clamps.
Go a little higher if possible.
Run the ports up.
Run a short drag link from the cylinder to the knuckle. It is ok if the drag link runs downhill a little to the knuckle.
Keep the full length tie rod as is.
 
What are the steering options for 05 up and using TIE ROD ENDS or GREASE-ABLE HIEM?

The application will see a lot of street time and needs to be strong. Drive home type stuff.
I have found Weaver Fabrication arms that look thick enough to be safe.
steering arms – Weaver Fabrication

Other option is using weld on kit for one of the many sources and a grease-able hiem joint.
There are not many options for a grease-able joints.
EMF Heim Joints

7/8
 
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RustyC said:
What are the steering options for 05 up and using TIE ROD ENDS or GREASE-ABLE HIEM?

The application will see a lot of street time and needs to be strong. Drive home type stuff.
I have found Weaver Fabrication arms that look thick enough to be safe.
steering arms – Weaver Fabrication

Other option is using weld on kit for one of the many sources and a grease-able hiem joint.
There are not many options for a grease-able joints.
EMF Heim Joints

7/8
Click to expand...
You can use any option with a high steer arm thick enough and drop a tapered insert in them.

I'd use BKOR machined high steer because Jake and crew are local and good people. And the product is good obv.

IMG_5816_500x.jpg


And add this :

www.ruffstuffspecialties.com

Tapered Steering Knuckle Insert

Check out the deal on Tapered Steering Knuckle Insert at RuffStuff Specialties
www.ruffstuffspecialties.com www.ruffstuffspecialties.com

Also, EMF makes some absolutely badass TREs:

EMF Rod Ends & Steering Components

EMF Rod Ends & Steering Components Evolution Machining & Fabrication Inc
www.emfrodends.com
 
Thanks
Nice to see BK doing the knuckles. They are local to me about a 45 min drive. That makes things easier.
 
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