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'05+ Ford Super Duty Dana 60 Axle Tech & Info
- Thread starter CDA 455 II
- Start date
Bggrnchvy
Red Skull Member
- Joined
- May 20, 2020
- Member Number
- 663
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I don't believe I saw it here previously, but East Coast Gear does 4340 1550 joint shafts for these axles. That's not surprising, but for $100 more than the 35spl shafts they will do 40spl. So if you already need to buy a locking carrier and want to go to drive flanges, the cost to go from 35pl to 40spl is $100.
Of course they aren't free, shafts alone are $1230 list for 4340 40 spline.
Of course they aren't free, shafts alone are $1230 list for 4340 40 spline.
Will only fly if you can undercut the individual prices considerably. Rockauto has kits and the savings aren't there.
Freight for rotors/calipers (weight) would kill me even if I needed all the other stuff. I find some mainstream 'free-freight with $100 order" vendor to eat it.
Grendel
Iron Sharpens Iron
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- May 19, 2020
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That's what I am looking for. Free shipping with over $XXX
FIFY
TrailTamer
🤣🖕🏻
Probably to prevent people from mix and match things.
Grendel
Iron Sharpens Iron
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Wouldn't that be the other way around? All one thread, to prevent someone putting a course thread nut onto a fine thread stud?
WaterH
Well-known member
Are the dually wheels “lug centric“ vs “hub centric” for standard ?
DMANbluesfreak
Trailers are for Boats
You might have it backwards. Most SRW wheels have a tapered lug nut in my experience, whereas many dually lugnuts will be for a flat face. But I'm not familiar with many newer trucks.
Grendel
Iron Sharpens Iron
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Dually wheels look flat. I don't have any Ford ones here though.
The extensions match the hub. I've put SRW wheels onto the dually wheel bearing, with course lug nuts
I've also put SRW wheels onto the dually extensions to go really wide, with fine lug nuts.
The extension fit is hub centric.
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The 99+ ford superduties are all hub centric - srw and drw. Early trucks were coarse thread and then went fine (halfway in the 99-04 run?). Maybe they flip-flopped again.
Many aftermarket wheels in 8x170mm have tapered seats and you need to change the lugnuts to match.
Many aftermarket wheels in 8x170mm have tapered seats and you need to change the lugnuts to match.
WaterH
Well-known member
I debated putting this in the “bible”. We’ll see what comes of it and maybe it can be moved.
I have a SD 60 in my project truck. If you are firmiller with them, you know that they have short knuckle arms. They are so short that the stock tie rod can not be run straight from knuckle to knuckle. If you try it, it will hit the diff on a turn. Im not sure why Ford or Dana did this, but the way they solve it is with ”bent“ tie rod ends. These are not stock and has high steer, but you can see what I’m talking about. (Not my truck)
On my project truck, I installed full hydro and you can see how I kept the stock low steer, tie rod here. I basically swapped the steering box for a cylinder.
The nice way to handle this to make your high steer high enough to run straight across like my favorite axle on Hydro-Dynamic’s “Dust Buggy”.
While my project truck steering has worked flawless during my testing, I’m considering changing it to a more conventional full hydro mount. The main reason is I can’t stand the “low steer” tie rod. It is actually the lowest part of the truck on the pax side of the diff. I would love to copy the dust buggy, but I can’t have all that high because of interference with my frame. The truck is too far along to modify the frame, so I’m stuck with my cylinder about the same height as it is now. Of course, with the more conventional mounting, I will get rid of the lower tie rod.
While contemplating this, I realized something. If you mount the cylinder forward enough to clear the diff, the two links will angle back a bit To the knuckle. When you turn in either direction, the knuckle arm will pivot back some more. If you visualize this from the top, you will see that the effect will be increased “toe in” the more you turn. This would even be true on the Dust Buggy axle, but very slight because he starts from straight. The stock tie rod would not change the toe at all as it turns. I don’t think any of this would matter on a purely trail rig. In my case, I know my project is going to see allot of street miles. I’m worried about destroying handling.
Can any of you steering experts confirm I’m worried about nothing?
I have a SD 60 in my project truck. If you are firmiller with them, you know that they have short knuckle arms. They are so short that the stock tie rod can not be run straight from knuckle to knuckle. If you try it, it will hit the diff on a turn. Im not sure why Ford or Dana did this, but the way they solve it is with ”bent“ tie rod ends. These are not stock and has high steer, but you can see what I’m talking about. (Not my truck)
On my project truck, I installed full hydro and you can see how I kept the stock low steer, tie rod here. I basically swapped the steering box for a cylinder.
The nice way to handle this to make your high steer high enough to run straight across like my favorite axle on Hydro-Dynamic’s “Dust Buggy”.
While my project truck steering has worked flawless during my testing, I’m considering changing it to a more conventional full hydro mount. The main reason is I can’t stand the “low steer” tie rod. It is actually the lowest part of the truck on the pax side of the diff. I would love to copy the dust buggy, but I can’t have all that high because of interference with my frame. The truck is too far along to modify the frame, so I’m stuck with my cylinder about the same height as it is now. Of course, with the more conventional mounting, I will get rid of the lower tie rod.
While contemplating this, I realized something. If you mount the cylinder forward enough to clear the diff, the two links will angle back a bit To the knuckle. When you turn in either direction, the knuckle arm will pivot back some more. If you visualize this from the top, you will see that the effect will be increased “toe in” the more you turn. This would even be true on the Dust Buggy axle, but very slight because he starts from straight. The stock tie rod would not change the toe at all as it turns. I don’t think any of this would matter on a purely trail rig. In my case, I know my project is going to see allot of street miles. I’m worried about destroying handling.
Can any of you steering experts confirm I’m worried about nothing?
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Bebop
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 26, 2020
- Member Number
- 1458
- Messages
- 4,128
I'm no expert, but you'll be fine.
That said I'd put some high steer arms on this unit and figure out how to do it better than slapping some tie-rods with a shitty angle.
rfr002
Red Skull Member
- Joined
- May 19, 2020
- Member Number
- 234
- Messages
- 21
Run tie rods on underside of high steer arms?
WaterH
Well-known member
Can’t go that high. If you look at my pic, the axle goes up another 4”. it really tucks up in there. When it’s on the stops, it’s reallly tight .
Will Scarlet
The universe is vast...
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- May 20, 2020
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Unfortunately your attachments are not showing for me.
WaterH
Well-known member
They seemed to disappear For me to. I reloaded them. See if that works.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
I can't figure out how to search. But I'm trying to find the difference in brakes over the years of all Balljount D60s. Last I read I can bolt ~2008+ calipers right to my 97 axle. I'm curious if this is true on the 13+ and if any of the F450/550 stuff uses the same caliper spacing.
My other option is complete 99-04 F450/550 knuckle swap. Then pull adapters and run 8x170 18 or 20 wheels.
My other option is complete 99-04 F450/550 knuckle swap. Then pull adapters and run 8x170 18 or 20 wheels.
Im not sure one 99-04 brakes but 05+ have a much biger mounting bolt spacing
HYDRODYNAMIC
Rock Stacker
I don't see any room to mount the cylinder any higher. There is nothing wrong with the tie rod or the cylinder to knuckle.
What I can not see is if the cylinder has a trunnion pivot, If so you are good, if not it should have bound up and you have problems.
The cylinder ports should be pointing up to purge air and protect them.
Here is what I would do.
Mount the cylinder solid to the axle as close as you can get the free rod to the pumpkin.
Use four clamps.
Go a little higher if possible.
Run the ports up.
Run a short drag link from the cylinder to the knuckle. It is ok if the drag link runs downhill a little to the knuckle.
Keep the full length tie rod as is.
TrailTamer
🤣🖕🏻
What are the steering options for 05 up and using TIE ROD ENDS or GREASE-ABLE HIEM?
The application will see a lot of street time and needs to be strong. Drive home type stuff.
I have found Weaver Fabrication arms that look thick enough to be safe.
steering arms – Weaver Fabrication
Other option is using weld on kit for one of the many sources and a grease-able hiem joint.
There are not many options for a grease-able joints.
EMF Heim Joints
7/8
The application will see a lot of street time and needs to be strong. Drive home type stuff.
I have found Weaver Fabrication arms that look thick enough to be safe.
steering arms – Weaver Fabrication
Other option is using weld on kit for one of the many sources and a grease-able hiem joint.
There are not many options for a grease-able joints.
EMF Heim Joints
7/8
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Manufacturer of Steering and Suspension Parts - Rare Parts
I was checking these out. The tre is a threaded cartridge. They also make some with offsets.
Bebop
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 26, 2020
- Member Number
- 1458
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You can use any option with a high steer arm thick enough and drop a tapered insert in them.
I'd use BKOR machined high steer because Jake and crew are local and good people. And the product is good obv.
And add this :
Tapered Steering Knuckle Insert
Check out the deal on Tapered Steering Knuckle Insert at RuffStuff Specialties
www.ruffstuffspecialties.com
Also, EMF makes some absolutely badass TREs:
EMF Rod Ends & Steering Components
EMF Rod Ends & Steering Components Evolution Machining & Fabrication Inc
www.emfrodends.com