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'05+ Ford Super Duty Dana 60 Axle Tech & Info

What is the axle shaft upgrade path?

Is the first step going from stock to stock that uses 1550 joint? Or is it going to chromo with 1480 joint?

I see the 1550 joint upgrade getting a lot of attention in this thread.

At what point does 40 spline get involved? And is there a locking hub that is 40 spline?

For locking hubs, is there something other than stock Warn? And is there a 40 spline hub available?
 
What is the axle shaft upgrade path?

Is the first step going from stock to stock that uses 1550 joint? Or is it going to chromo with 1480 joint?

I see the 1550 joint upgrade getting a lot of attention in this thread.

At what point does 40 spline get involved? And is there a locking hub that is 40 spline?

For locking hubs, is there something other than stock Warn? And is there a 40 spline hub available?
I'm no expert, but I would think a chromo shaft with a 1480 costs the same (or close) as one with 1550. So why would you even consider one with a 1480?

In any case, my thought would be

1. 1550 stock
2. 1550 chromo
3. Fancy aftermarket ($$$)

Don't believe there is any hub better than warn. You must go drive flange or direct when going to bigger stub.

On the axle debate, I think the consensus is you would rather brake the shaft than the joint because a joint breakage usually takes out the knuckle. So the idea of 1480 chromo is not desirable unless you are going to a fancy aftermarket joint. If that's the case, why not go to 1550 aftermarket joint?
 
I'm no expert, but I would think a chromo shaft with a 1480 costs the same (or close) as one with 1550. So why would you even consider one with a 1480?
<snip good info>

For sake of adding numbers, I went to Branik:
1550 Spicer complete assembly ~$170 a side
1480 35 spline inner $260
1480 35 spline outer $150
1550 35 spline inner $330
1550 35 spline outer $250
1480 40 spline inner $730 (legacy billet)
1480 40 spline outer $395 (legacy billet)
1550 40 spline inner $380
1550 40 spline outer $285

RCV was ~$3k for full 35 spline setup in 4340.

On the u-joints, my requirement would include being able to use at speed for extended periods. Last time I talked with CTM, they said no go. I don't know about the many other bushing'd joints out there but I'd guess no go also. Spicer SPL35 was considered "next" best in the 1480 by my axle guy who doesn't sell parts... I forget what the equivalent was in 1550.

On the hubs, are they "safe" to broach out to 40 spline?
 
What is the axle shaft upgrade path?

Is the first step going from stock to stock that uses 1550 joint? Or is it going to chromo with 1480 joint?

I see the 1550 joint upgrade getting a lot of attention in this thread.

At what point does 40 spline get involved? And is there a locking hub that is 40 spline?

For locking hubs, is there something other than stock Warn? And is there a 40 spline hub available?
What I gathered from the old discussion...

Somewhere in the chromoly range (can't remember if 1480 or 1550 was decided or a known range) is where 35 spline is getting pushed and 40 spline is poetnially worth it.

I was budget and time limited last summer doing my swap, so I went stock 1550 assemblies and drive flanges as it was decently regarded/match to my usage (Jeep trailer queen on stickies that doesn't get way abused)
 
For sake of adding numbers, I went to Branik:
1550 Spicer complete assembly ~$170 a side
1480 35 spline inner $260
1480 35 spline outer $150
1550 35 spline inner $330
1550 35 spline outer $250
1480 40 spline inner $730 (legacy billet)
1480 40 spline outer $395 (legacy billet)
1550 40 spline inner $380
1550 40 spline outer $285

RCV was ~$3k for full 35 spline setup in 4340.

On the u-joints, my requirement would include being able to use at speed for extended periods. Last time I talked with CTM, they said no go. I don't know about the many other bushing'd joints out there but I'd guess no go also. Spicer SPL35 was considered "next" best in the 1480 by my axle guy who doesn't sell parts... I forget what the equivalent was in 1550.

On the hubs, are they "safe" to broach out to 40 spline?
I'm confused on the 1550 vs 1480. I'm assuming that's the yoke inner spacing or ujoint size? Keep in mind, I'm a n00bie at this stuff, so keep laughter at a minimum...lol

Long story short, I'm doing a rolling chassis swap...4wd F350 06 chassis under an 02 f350 to get the ride, turning radius and braking better. The chassis i purchased had axles, brakes, suspension, etc. I have ripped it all down (except for the pumpkins) to clean, paint or replace.

I had the driver side inner axle shaft damage, so need to replace it. I ordered one from Summit Racing (Dana Spicer SDH-10013781)...when it arrived, it was bigger...same spline but the yoke was almost an inch larger. So, my assumption is that this is a 1550 and I need a 1480 version, is that a correct assumption? Or will this new (bigger version) work in my application? It certainly looks beefier...
Thanks in advance
 
I'm confused on the 1550 vs 1480. I'm assuming that's the yoke inner spacing or ujoint size? Keep in mind, I'm a n00bie at this stuff, so keep laughter at a minimum...lol

Long story short, I'm doing a rolling chassis swap...4wd F350 06 chassis under an 02 f350 to get the ride, turning radius and braking better. The chassis i purchased had axles, brakes, suspension, etc. I have ripped it all down (except for the pumpkins) to clean, paint or replace.

I had the driver side inner axle shaft damage, so need to replace it. I ordered one from Summit Racing (Dana Spicer SDH-10013781)...when it arrived, it was bigger...same spline but the yoke was almost an inch larger. So, my assumption is that this is a 1550 and I need a 1480 version, is that a correct assumption? Or will this new (bigger version) work in my application? It certainly looks beefier...
Thanks in advance
1550 vs 1480 is referring to the u-joint size which the yoke size will have to follow as well

05+ superduty dana 60's have a large enough knuckle to fit the 1550 ujoint axles, the Dana Spicer SDH-10013781 one that you bought will fit your application

one additional bonus to that axle shaft from dana spicer is more metal on the yokes around the ears :beer:

if i were you i'd get the get the upgraded shaft for the other side while you're at it
 
1550 vs 1480 is referring to the u-joint size which the yoke size will have to follow as well

05+ superduty dana 60's have a large enough knuckle to fit the 1550 ujoint axles, the Dana Spicer SDH-10013781 one that you bought will fit your application

one additional bonus to that axle shaft from dana spicer is more metal on the yokes around the ears :beer:

if i were you i'd get the get the upgraded shaft for the other side while you're at it
Ok...I didn't realize that. I was ready to ship it back.
And yes, that is a beefier setup.
Many thanks!
 
Ok...I didn't realize that. I was ready to ship it back.
And yes, that is a beefier setup.
Many thanks!

Yup, at some point Ford upgraded the UJoints going in the new Super Duties, but didn’t change anything else. So then parts supply just made the larger 1550 assemblies backwards compatible and superseded back to 05.

0820BD24-9206-4B8D-BE30-342007529439.jpeg
 
I think you're right, but you also want the RCV 300m gear upgrade: StackPath

Agreed that going to a bigger stub requires direct or slugs in my (old) research.

Those hub gears are for the warn premium lockout on the kingpin axles. It looks like this is the super duty version:


The question is what’s stronger stock, warn, stock with RCV hub gears?
 
No unit bearing compatible 40 spline locking hubs yet? (That I can find)

I'm sure it's just a matter of time.
 
Anyone ever bought one of these from lkq online?


lkq axle total.png
 
Anyone ever bought one of these from lkq online?


lkq axle total.png
I bought mine through LKQ. I had them deliver to me work with a forklift and freight was free. They charged me a core and shorted me calipers and rotors.
 
I bought mine through LKQ. I had them deliver to me work with a forklift and freight was free. They charged me a core and shorted me calipers and rotors.
Most bone yards pull the calipers now and resell them in bulk to the rebuilders, like Cardone.

Sucks, too.
 
Ok...I didn't realize that. I was ready to ship it back.
And yes, that is a beefier setup.
Many thanks!
Welcome to irate!
Poke around a bit, we're rude and crude, but good at heart.
Consider posting up your swap in the "tow rigs" forum, with pics :smokin:
Anyone ever bought one of these from lkq online?


lkq axle total.png
I found some on car-part.com, then followed it to lkq, they like to charge a core, but I was able to get the guy, on the phone, to reduce them, I've had better luck with a local yard
If/ when I'm after a specific grading combo, I'll probably be back to dealing with lqk

I'd also try and figure out more info on the truck they came from, I'd rather buy one from a king ranch that got t boned, than a white xl that was run in the oil fields with the hubs locked for 120k miles:laughing:
I bought mine through LKQ. I had them deliver to me work with a forklift and freight was free. They charged me a core and shorted me calipers and rotors.

Most bone yards pull the calipers now and resell them in bulk to the rebuilders, like Cardone.

Sucks, too.

My local yard told me their insurance company won't let them sell them with the brakes, mine let the rotors slide, but I'll be buying a set of reman calipers
 
To confirm:
The front coil springs on '05+ Super Duty are the same measurements as the '92-'96 Broncos?

Meaning; they would sit in the upper bucket and axle retainer (barring the offset).


WaterH
 
To confirm:
The front coil springs on '05+ Super Duty are the same measurements as the '92-'96 Broncos?

Meaning; they would sit in the upper bucket and axle retainer (barring the offset).


WaterH
No.

Upper and lower mounts are both different. Upper end is not retained. Easily resolved by welding a pipe into the 80-96 coil bucket to copy the 05 bucket or running an '05+ coil bucket.

I'm unsure about the bottom but you should be able to whip up some sort of tab out of scrap stock that grabs it. Just don't bet on the OEM washer and seat working without modification.
 
To confirm:
The front coil springs on '05+ Super Duty are the same measurements as the '92-'96 Broncos?

Meaning; they would sit in the upper bucket and axle retainer (barring the offset).


WaterH
I had 92' springs in a 92' bucket and the bottom matched up nice on the SD axle. Don't know about the SD springs on the older bucket.
 
When looking for a junkyard 05 SD60 keep in mind these are up to 15 years old now unless you get a later model. The ball joints, calipers, u joints, wheel bearings, and rubber seals are all going to be dried up and need to be replaced to expect a reasonable service while you have things apart.
Depending on the years start looking at rust more than age as the wear items are all going to be replaced potentially.
I got two driveshafts from LKQ. 2018 Ram 2500 = 1410 CV with 1410 slip yoke for less than $100 dollars delivered. First one was low mileage and a total rust bucket all the joints needed to be replaced. Second was mid mileage and must have been driven in Arizona by a grandma, almost zero rust, cleaned right up and all the seals still looked good. Called LKQ said the first shaft was rusted out and not usable and they gave a full refund one time only offer. Not worth the hassle or price of shipping.
I still was able to use the slip yoke and shaft off the rusted one after turning it down in a lathe. I now have a second CV for parts if needed but the little things like the special CV ball seal with the needle bearings needs to be replaced and I have no idea where to find them.
Moral of the story is know what needs to be maintained or replaced before buying a core or junkyard part.
 
Soooo would I be crazy to entertain one of these '05+ axles as a rear axle in a "kids/comp" buggy. like suzuki 1.6 turbo on propane and use '05+ as the front and rear with offset diffs?....super light buggy/drivetrain but bullet proof axles on 37" stickies
 
Soooo would I be crazy to entertain one of these '05+ axles as a rear axle in a "kids/comp" buggy. like suzuki 1.6 turbo on propane and use '05+ as the front and rear with offset diffs?....super light buggy/drivetrain but bullet proof axles on 37" stickies
Strength wise, they seem up to the task, specially on a light weight rig. Stepping up to the 1550 shafts down the road in the rear would be a cheap upgrade.

we obviously dont know your kids driving ability. I would think teaching your kid to not full lock the rear steer while bound up would be the most limiting factor.
 
Soooo would I be crazy to entertain one of these '05+ axles as a rear axle in a "kids/comp" buggy. like suzuki 1.6 turbo on propane and use '05+ as the front and rear with offset diffs?....super light buggy/drivetrain but bullet proof axles on 37" stickies
You'll be completely fine.
I think it's a great idea actually.
But I'd go 39" in order to get the diff higher.
 
That would require voluntarily giving ballistic fab money.
I know they got a bad rep from years ago, but i have been running their ballistic joints on my SAS daily/weekend warrior. and have been quite happy with them. solid 4 years with just occasional greasing. still tight and no squeaking. got some builder parts from them and seemed decent quality, plus shipped to CAN right away.
 
Anyone ever bought one of these from lkq online?


lkq axle total.png

Never bought an axle; but engine, trans, seats, panels, etc.

I've always picked up at one of their locations. I back up to the dock and they load my truck. If you dont like the condition, you can refuse and order another. There no cost associated with ordering a part from one location or another.
 
Go in to a location and talk to the lady at the PC. Mine was able to find me one with low miles, and 4.10s. Shipped from Montana to my shop in Ca for free. I gave them a D35 front for a core, but it could have been a fence post for all the driver cared, lol
 
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