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'05+ Ford Super Duty Dana 60 Axle Tech & Info

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This looks good for a weld on. High and ties into the stock ball joint socket, and double shear.
To improve upon it I would turn lock to lock and determine if the tall misalignment spacers are needed. My guess is no.
I would run low profile safety washers that will reduce the leverage on the bolted joint.
I go my SS safety washers from Polyperformance ages ago.
 
It is 1/4" plate. However I would weld a sleeve between the top and bottom where the rod end would go, so the bolt would go all the way through.I understand they are less desirable, but I took every precaution when welding it (pre and post heat..., 5 hour cool down in an oven from 400 degrees down to 170). With front and rear steer, I could not afford the Reid knuckles or other at this time, this is not a road vehicle either.
That would be better. It will certainly spread the load away from that single plate.
 
I would run low profile safety washers that will reduce the leverage on the bolted joint.
I go my SS safety washers from Polyperformance ages ago.
this is how i do it as well, i get the safety washers from barnes4wd
 
I agree with the safety washers. It would honestly look much better as well as being stronger.
I had planned to use the hiem in the normal location of the weld on kit,
so I already had the 2" mounting width misalignment spacers.

These are the spacers in the pic.
 
this is how i do it as well, i get the safety washers from barnes4wd
So I like the idea of the safety washers. I guess my current issue is I have 7/8" rod ends, and am planning on running a 3/4" bolt. How about running these lower profile misalignment washers. 7/8" to 3/4" Narrow Stainless Misalignment. I can swap back to 3/4" rod ends I guess, its only money and time 😕.
 
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7/8x3/4 rod ends are stronger then 7/8x7/8 rod ends

7/8x3/4 Approximate Ultimate Radial Static Load - 55,600lbs
7/8x7/8 Approximate Ultimate Radial Static Load - 45,000lbs
 
because theyre both the same size heim but one has a bigger hole in it meaning less strength in the sides of the heim body

kinda dumb but thats how they make them
I suppose it depends on who’s rod ends your buying. Normally, if the holes bigger, the head is bigger. I guess in the helms you’re talking about, the swivel is less too.
 
Normally, if the holes bigger, the head is bigger.
nope

normally 7/8x3/4 and 7/8/7/8 rod ends are the same size and the 7/8x3/4 is stronger just like i said :homer:

someone might make a heim like you describe but its 100% not normal
 
nope

normally 7/8x3/4 and 7/8/7/8 rod ends are the same size and the 7/8x3/4 is stronger just like i said :homer:

someone might make a heim like you describe but its 100% not normal
Actually, a rod end is normally the same size hole as shank. Having a smaller shank than hole is not normal. That is the oddball. They could have takin a 7/8” rod end and whittled the shank down to 3/4” and it would have the same strength, but they choose to do it the other way. In any case, we all understand why it’s weaker.
 
youre confused and have no idea wtf youre talking about as usual

no one is discussing a heim with a shank smaller then the hole in the heim :homer::homer::homer:
 
Actually, a rod end is normally the same size hole as shank. Having a smaller shank than hole is not normal. That is the oddball. They could have takin a 7/8” rod end and whittled the shank down to 3/4” and it would have the same strength, but they choose to do it the other way. In any case, we all understand why it’s weaker.
Please stop "helping"
 
rockyota83 is correct.

7/8 x 3/4 heim is stronger than a 7/8 x 7/8 one.

I thought it was common knowledge...
 
Does anyone have these numbers but for a 05+ super duty front. I've been searching for a hour or so now with zero luck.

I know the pic shows a KINGPIN axle outer (found with google search). I'm using it for reference instead of trying to explain it all. Basically from inner C to center line of U-joint and center line of U-joint to WMS. Or the right 2 question marks filled in. Thanks
kingpindianeeded.jpg
 
fwiw
Thanks, not sure how I missed that, I ripped through the whole thread but still somehow missed that and it's posted like 3-4 times on the same page. :homer: . Thanks again.


How about a ball park number from the inner C to the U-joint centerline?
 
Does anyone have these numbers but for a 05+ super duty front. I've been searching for a hour or so now with zero luck.

I know the pic shows a KINGPIN axle outer (found with google search). I'm using it for reference instead of trying to explain it all. Basically from inner C to center line of U-joint and center line of U-joint to WMS. Or the right 2 question marks filled in. Thanks
kingpindianeeded.jpg

Thanks, not sure how I missed that, I ripped through the whole thread but still somehow missed that and it's posted like 3-4 times on the same page. :homer: . Thanks again.


How about a ball park number from the inner C to the U-joint centerline?
5- 5/8 center of u joint to edge of inner c, right to where the weld meets the c
PXL_20220315_012036631.jpg
 
So I was trying to talk someone into building a 60/9 over a kingpin axle for his Toyota. Pass drop and wanting deeper than 5.38s, so stock SD axles aren't really an option.

Does anyone make a housing with an option for 05+ C's welded on?

I did find these, which is nice for those not using much stock components. Not sure if thats each or per pair.

 
So I was trying to talk someone into building a 60/9 over a kingpin axle for his Toyota. Pass drop and wanting deeper than 5.38s, so stock SD axles aren't really an option.

Does anyone make a housing with an option for 05+ C's welded on?

I did find these, which is nice for those not using much stock components. Not sure if thats each or per pair.

Dave Plumley, the owner of Down To Fab is awesome... and he does a housing.

That's also each, I think.

Parts Included:

  • (1) inner knuckle "C"
 
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Dave Plumley, the owner of Down To Fab is awesome... and he does a housing.

That's also each, I think.

Parts Included:

  • (1) inner knuckle "C"
Housing with 3.5" tubes for the ud60 forgings or the larger (3.75"?) Super duty 60 forgings?



My buddy just picked up a front axle from a 2020 tremor that was in an accident and the entire driver side tube is popped out of the housing. I think he is going to stuff the tubes into a 9" center or give me the broken housing.
 
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Housing with 3.5" tubes for the ud60 forgings or the larger (3.75"?) Super duty 60 forgings?



My buddy just picked up a front axle from a 2020 tremor that was in an accident and the entire driver side tube is popped out of the housing. I think he is going to stuff the tubes into a 9" center or give me the broken housing.
Sorry, I am not Dave from DTF...:flipoff2:
 
So I was trying to talk someone into building a 60/9 over a kingpin axle for his Toyota. Pass drop and wanting deeper than 5.38s, so stock SD axles aren't really an option.

Does anyone make a housing with an option for 05+ C's welded on?

I did find these, which is nice for those not using much stock components. Not sure if thats each or per pair.

I just ordered up 4 of these last Wednesday and they were at my house by Saturday.

Price is each.

It was my first time ordering from downtofab.com and I have to give credit where credit is due. Dave answered my emails promptly, he had an odd number of C's left in stock and was able to locate me one more to make a set of 4, his website stock is usually always correct and up to date, he refunded my difference in shipping as stated on the webpage promptly. All this within 2-3 days, where as my experience with other companies has not been so quick and easy so props to him, I'll be ordering from him again in the future for sure.
 
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I posted these on the other site years ago, I figured I'd dig em out for the new thread...

Ouversons.jpg

Stock 05+ shaft on the left...

I think I remember you running lower ball joints all the way around on your knuckles, how are they holding up?
 
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