Sterlingfire
ignant
I wouldn't go with weld on arms if you're going to be Street driving... weaver has a far better setup, and you can decide which size ram to use.
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'05+ Ford Super Duty Dana 60 Axle Tech & Info
- Thread starter CDA 455 II
- Start date
You can use any option with a high steer arm thick enough and drop a tapered insert in them.
I'd use BKOR machined high steer because Jake and crew are local and good people. And the product is good obv.
I almost bought those the other day but for $800 + $128 for shitty FedEx shipping they came out to $928. I paid the extra $12 for the brand new Reid knuckles. You guys that are local can save a few bucks but it wasn't worth it for me.
$25 dollar difference now that I look. Poly performance is doing a %10 off sale.
Just the pair of knuckles, no arms. The arms could be made very easily with a piece of flatbar, the ones from bkor and weaver don't even have a machined taper.
Just the pair of knuckles, no arms. The arms could be made very easily with a piece of flatbar, the ones from bkor and weaver don't even have a machined taper.
DMANbluesfreak
Trailers are for Boats
TMR sells these as well, but they're out of stock for who knows how long (parts are probably sitting on a boat off the coast of CA). I might need to reach out and see if these guys have anything in stock.Manufacturer of Steering and Suspension Parts - Rare Parts
www.fabseries.com
I was checking these out. The tre is a threaded cartridge. They also make some with offsets.
Yeah, no arms with the Reid knuckles so it's not really an apples to apples comparison. $900+ for used oem knuckles is a tough pill to swallow though, high steer arms or not.
Sterlingfire
ignant
05-12 Ford Superduty Reid Knuckle and Steering Arm
05+ Super Duty High Steer Arms Sky's is the only company on the market to offer a complete passenger-driver double shear kit for 05+ Dana 60 Reid knuckles. We have taken the Reid knuckle and built an arm with as many options as possible. We use all the 5 stud points on the knuckle. Passenger...
www.skysoffroaddesign.com
DED60002FR
Reid Racing: Strongest, Highest Quality Transmission & Off-Road Products.
www.justdifferentials.com
The sky setup is actually 612 with the arm... but maybe you can mix and match with the ded knuckles?
call them and they might be able to put a taper in the arm so you dont need to use an insert for a tie rod end
HYDRODYNAMIC
Rock Stacker
That fastener arrangement is not ideal.
Split washers should not be used with washers unless you are in the electrical realm even then it’s fundamentally wrong.
Split washers are a broken washer that can easily expand in diameter if the bolt tries to rotate, causing it to get spit out and. Then you have a huge gap for the fixture to get hammered.
Locking washers work when they can bite the bolt and the clamping surface. An additional washer lets the lock washer spin on a hardened surface that it cannot bite into.
NordLock washers are a good replacement for split washers in addition to thread locking compounds.
Washers should only be used when the clamping surface is too soft to support the clamping force and the soft surface will deform and loosen the bolted fixture as it gets hammered.
welndmn
Well Done Man
For years I preached about the proper use of the lock washer, BUT people are accustomed to having the large washer - lock washer - bolt head arrangement.
Now I just feel the proper use for the normal slit lock washer is in the trash and use another method.
imo lock washers work great for bolts smaller then 1/2", above that and theyre trash
people have been using factory lock washers on factory toyota drive line flanges for half a century with zero issues
people have been using factory lock washers on factory toyota drive line flanges for half a century with zero issues
Bebop
Well-known member
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I have no washers on mine. Socket cap bolts. Don't move a bit.
lt1yj
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- Jul 6, 2020
- Member Number
- 2258
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- 176
Thick hardened flat washers are a good way to distribute the clamping force over a greater surface area to reduce localized yielding under the bolt head which in turn reduces joint setting or loss of preload that leads to bolt loosening or breaking.
Thick hardened flat washers also helps bridge the space around the bolt to accomdate looser manufacturing tolerances for bolt holes.
Typical hardware store washers are junk. I use Cat hardware. I haven't found another good source for the thick hardened flat washers.
I haven't used Nordlock on anything recently but have had great luck with their products in the early 2000's.
On my project truck, I installed full hydro and you can see how I kept the stock low steer, tie rod here. I basically swapped the steering box for a cylinder.
Can anyone comment what sort of coil spring angle is acceptable (or even desirable?) with the stock type radius arm? Does Ford set it up dead-vertical? Thinking some inboard lean may have a centring effect; but not sure. Pic above appears to lean into the frame some.
I gotta decide the coil bucket offset and placement on a W350 frame.
WaterH
Well-known member
That picture is in the early days of my build. The springs are mounted in the stock Bronco coil buckets and the stock Superduty lower mounts. (It is not a stock Ford arrangement) I later changed to airbags, so never got to test this much. (Drove around the yard some). They seemed to work alright.
Grendel
Iron Sharpens Iron
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- May 19, 2020
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Beat95yj mentioned post years ago, that as long as the coil doesn't arch, angle away.
Mine are angled in about 15 degrees, and I made the mounts match those angles.
I used Barnes upper coil mounts with some mods and 1993 F250 shock towers.
If I had it to do all over, I'd just use factory coil buckets with the built in shock mounts. They're about 150.00 shipped for both sides.
Ford F-450 Super Duty Coil Spring Pocket (Upper). 2WD, MONOBEAM - 8C3Z5A306B | Lakeland Ford Online Parts, Lakeland FL
Coil Spring Pocket (Upper). 2WD, MONOBEAM AXLE. 4WD. Ford F-450 Super Duty. Genuine Ford Part - 8C3Z5A306B (8C3Z-5A306-B). Ships from Lakeland Ford Online Parts, Lakeland FL
parts.lakelandford.com
Grendel
Iron Sharpens Iron
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yeah, I didn't either, until I bought them to convert a 2004 F550 chassis to coil... and then traded the buckets and 300 for a 2012 F550 chassis, that needs buckets due to rot.
1980's high GVW GM C35 frame is 34" on center.
As I said, I started with Barnes and welded my way out. To be clear, my springs don't "arch" now.
Next time, will use Ford parts.
Attachments
arse_sidewards
Contrary to everything
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Are those coil buckets readily availible? Those seem like they would be the shit for converting leaf sprung small vehicles to coils and full width.Had no idea the factory buckets were that cheap. Suffice to say, the dodge frame is probably 6" narrower up front.
Enough BS'ing... here's some pics
WaterH
Well-known member
To me it looks like it needs a bar to go across to the other side. My eyeball engineer says it has a lot of leverage to twist frame.
fwiw my 1st gen frame cracked where the engine cross member is riveted to it and the end of the engine cross member also cracked, driver side onlyHad no idea the factory buckets were that cheap. Suffice to say, the dodge frame is probably 6" narrower up front.
Enough BS'ing... here's some pics
YeeP
Red Skull Member
How many of you guys with weld on kits are running single shear on top? I recently finished my weld on steering setup and have multiple people in my group of wheelers telling me that single shear is enough and worth it to get the ram out of harm's way. To setup my ram in a position where it would be "perfect" with double shear, it does end up a lot closer to the ground than I had wanted.
I can also create a new bracket on top of the knuckle to make it double shear...
I can also create a new bracket on top of the knuckle to make it double shear...
Bebop
Well-known member
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It is not a weld-on kit but I run single shear on my buggy with 05+ outers.
Axle has smoked a few rocks, bent a ram, gone through ball joints etc but never had a problem with single shear.
That said I do bolt checks on these bolts regularly.
Axle has smoked a few rocks, bent a ram, gone through ball joints etc but never had a problem with single shear.
That said I do bolt checks on these bolts regularly.
Sterlingfire
ignant
Is the weld on kit made with 1/4" plate?
I think in single shear on top you'll see that plate fatigue and eventually fail. I wonder if double capturing it on top will negate that issue..i have my doubts.
Fwi, i think the weld on kits are a gamble of whether they'll take the abuse or not.
I think in single shear on top you'll see that plate fatigue and eventually fail. I wonder if double capturing it on top will negate that issue..i have my doubts.
Fwi, i think the weld on kits are a gamble of whether they'll take the abuse or not.
YeeP
Red Skull Member
It is 1/4" plate. However I would weld a sleeve between the top and bottom where the rod end would go, so the bolt would go all the way through.I understand they are less desirable, but I took every precaution when welding it (pre and post heat..., 5 hour cool down in an oven from 400 degrees down to 170). With front and rear steer, I could not afford the Reid knuckles or other at this time, this is not a road vehicle either.
you can also just weld another tab on top of the joint and box it in making it double shear
YeeP
Red Skull Member
Wow. This is great, thank you so much. I am running Motobilt which bolts up from the bottom into a large rod that buts up against the top plate. There is no reason I cannot drill down and tap into the rod that comes up. Thank you for sharing. Hope you don't mind if I copy it a little.
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