Junkyard 609 axles

My short side is 20-5/16” custom length and the wms is 65”. There really isn’t a point in running off the shelf shafts because you will have to rework the polished area for the seal, unless you already have some badass shafts laying around like Blase.
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These are still available at Dutchman last I checked, add $58 for shipping and you have a set of inner 4340 shafts at pretty much whatever length you want without having to compromise your pinion offset or wms.
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Also no way I would consider using those thick ass tubes on any junkyard built 9. The ones I used from a Dana 50/60 were both .350” and I would have liked to have gone thinner like .250” that is used on a lot of 14 bolts. I’m pretty sure most or all the van axle 14 bolt ff housings are .250” wall. I’m not sure if you will have enough tube for a long side without splicing though, which is another reason to run a longer short side shaft/less pinion offset on your front axle build.
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That’s a 14 bolt FF next to a Dana 50 front or e350 rear tube, both 3.5” OD. If I had enough of the thinner tube I would have used that instead of the thicker tube from the danas that I ended up using because I had it already.
 
Chopping axle tubes at a junk yard sounds like it would suck :laughing:
Absolutely, part of why I was considering some new tube lol.
There really isn’t a point in running off the shelf shafts because you will have to rework the polished area for the seal
Unless I stab the tubes within 1” ish from the spanners to use a traditional seal, you’re right I’d need to rework the seal situation. I was considering the budget seals it, but I’d still need to polish wherever the seal surface winds up I assume.
I’m pretty sure most or all the van axle 14 bolt ff housings are .250” wall. I’m not sure if you will have enough tube for a long side without splicing though, which is another reason to run a longer short side shaft/less pinion offset on your front axle build.
.250 wall was what I was thinking would be ideal, and then getting the inner OD sides machined down to fit the 9” ID of tubes. I don’t know if thinner wall would have issue with that.
It should be 3.125"x.5" like most pre-Superduty Dana 60s unless Dodge was doing something different.
Correct. Which also doesn’t help because my quick tape measure initially I read it as 3.25 which would have been perfect OD wise for this 9” center
 
These are still available at Dutchman last I checked, add $58 for shipping and you have a set of inner 4340 shafts at pretty much whatever length you want without having to compromise your pinion offset or wms.
Good idea, I don’t care about the mismatch so that’s a good deal. Not much more than the single short side if I go new.
 
If you spend $450 on dom, you may as well just spend a little more on a TG housing and make it easy.
3.125x.250w is pretty cheap. $160 plus shipping. It's cheaper if you call and order too.

 
3.125x.250w is pretty cheap. $160 plus shipping. It's cheaper if you call and order too.

Hmm, thanks for that.

3.25x.120 is less than $100 to retube both sides…

I know this is junkyard mentality but that might be hard to pass up.
 
Hmm, thanks for that.

3.25x.120 is less than $100 to retube both sides…

I know this is junkyard mentality but that might be hard to pass up.
Are you going to retube with 3.25x.120 or is that a typo? That’s a bit on the thin side, more like driveshaft tubing. What is the tube OD the donor Cs are on?

3.125x.250 wall tube has a 2.625” ID.

Factory Dana 60 seal has a 2.625” OD.
 
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Are you going to retube with 3.25x.120 or is that a typo? That’s a bit on the thin side, more like driveshaft tubing. What is the tube OD the donor Cs are on?

3.125x.250 wall tube has a 2.625” ID.

Factory Dana 60 seal has a 2.625” OD.
:homer: Yeah that’s stupid I wasn’t paying attention

If the whole ID was 2.625 without a lip to sit on, do you think the seal would have issue walking around or staying square?

I was intending to use the 3.125 C’s, but then I’ll need to solve for the 9” center being 3.25 ID.
I have an uncut D50 here if I really want those Cs instead but I feel like I can solve this without those.
 
It's been 1.5 years, are these still collecting dust on the shelf :flipoff2:

Putting these on the parts shelf for now, bulk of the fabrication is done short of trusses and tabs. I’ll spend money on parts and get back to these in a year or two when the project vehicle is ready.
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:homer: Yeah that’s stupid I wasn’t paying attention

If the whole ID was 2.625 without a lip to sit on, do you think the seal would have issue walking around or staying square?

I was intending to use the 3.125 C’s, but then I’ll need to solve for the 9” center being 3.25 ID.
I have an uncut D50 here if I really want those Cs instead but I feel like I can solve this without those.
**** I missed this from a year ago! Honestly don’t know if the seal would walk around or not. I would probably want a shoulder in there but some green loctite or something like that would probably hold it in place too.
 
**** I missed this from a year ago! Honestly don’t know if the seal would walk around or not. I would probably want a shoulder in there but some green loctite or something like that would probably hold it in place too.
I talked to Seals It about their Economy seals for this application a while back, they said cleaning up an unpolished portion the best you can is ideal, but it should work on a unpolished portion of the shaft.

I didn’t make it any further than collecting parts, but I’m back to thinking about this project again.

 
Dan : How are you liking those 'Strange' housings, was looking at those for my build as I might save a little weight over Yukon ones. Thanks
 


I just bought two centers from this exact eBay add. I have to say I'm VERY impressed. Seller took the time to pull the studs out of the housing and bag them so they didn't get messed up in shipping. They also pulled the tubes out. So other than cleaning the two centers I got are ready to start shaving and building.. Highly recommend this seller if you don't already had a 9" sitting around.
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:grinpimp:
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I talked to Seals It about their Economy seals for this application a while back, they said cleaning up an unpolished portion the best you can is ideal, but it should work on a unpolished portion of the shaft.

I didn’t make it any further than collecting parts, but I’m back to thinking about this project again.


I run these on my 60U Rear steer axle and i had them on the outside of my front axle to keep crud out. Do they work, yes. But I hate them. Past year I broke 3 shafts, 2 rear and 1 front and all three took the gooped in ~$40 economy seal for a ride when they went. I use a tube of "right stuff" as well when i install these, cures fast and holds better than High temp crap they recommend. So shaft, plus seal, plus goop, plus can of brake clean for this loosey goosey setup was now too stupid to me. New setup, I had a friend, John at Yeti welding, machine a sleeve, I put at the diff, with the 2.625 ID so i can run the factory $15 (FOR TWO) front 60 seal. Mucho better setup.
 
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I run these on my 60U Rear steer axle and i had them on the outside of my front axle to keep crud out. Do they work, yes. But I hate them. Past year I broke 3 shafts, 2 rear and 1 front and all three took the gooped in ~$40 economy seal for a ride when they went. I use a tube of "right stuff" as well when i install these, cures fast and holds better than High temp crap they recommend. So shaft, plus seal, plus goop, plus can of brake clean for this loosey goosey setup was now too stupid to me. New setup, I had a friend machine a sleeve, I put at the diff, with the 2.625 ID so i can run the factory $15 (FOR TWO) front 60 seal. Mucho better setup.
One of the latest bleepinjeep vids he drilled a hole in a hockey puck and put it in there...
 
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