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Junkyard 609 axles

complete noob and i know its simple please forgive

so lets say i have axle shafts allready, or like OP had factory dana 70 shafts. so do you put your shafts in the line up pucks and then do the math of where to cut housing.
put left axle in and do i push the axle all the to the left side that says Spline end... red arrow
and then put right in till i have the end of the axle at this mark green arrow
and the space between is just space?
again super noob question sorry

1717590103522.png

1717590288352.png
 
Yes. Green and Red arrows are where the axle shafts would end.

It gets more complicated if you try to use front axle shafts W/ seals already machined though.
 
chaplinfj60 said:
that is where my next questions level of drama will begin. yikes and thanks
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It depends on the locker you choose. ARBa has a different spline gap than a Detroit in a 9". Make sure whatever jig you are using has the locker you're using.

Or better yet, have the locker on hand, and installed in the 3rd, put the 3rd in the housing, hook the inboard end of the (internal, locker) splines with a tape measure, and go from there.

Spidertrax has a spreadsheet on their website for their knuckles, which accounts for the different locker gaps.
 
Yeah that's a bad descriptor, that one should just be pinion centerline as the tool itself notes.

IIRC the difference in axle shaft length between ARB and Detroit is the thickness of the center pin. The ARB has a somewhat standard looking centerpin that the axle shafts basically butt up against, indicated by the gap in that "spline window". While the Detroit has no center pin so the splines between L and R shaft essentially meet up with each other in the center of that spline window

https://www.arb.com.au/assets/air-lockers/2-RD99.pdf

71iIIQ+lNTL._AC_UF350,350_QL80_.jpg


used-detroit-locker-ford-9-inch-31-spline-picture4.jpg
 
chaplinfj60 said:
complete noob and i know its simple please forgive

so lets say i have axle shafts allready, or like OP had factory dana 70 shafts. so do you put your shafts in the line up pucks and then do the math of where to cut housing.
put left axle in and do i push the axle all the to the left side that says Spline end... red arrow
and then put right in till i have the end of the axle at this mark green arrow
and the space between is just space?
again super noob question sorry

1717590103522.png

1717590288352.png
Click to expand...
Hey, I appreciate you asking man....when I have to do this to my 4 housings, I'm going to be re-reading this.
 
Sean said:
Hey, I appreciate you asking man....when I have to do this to my 4 housings, I'm going to be re-reading this.
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so this is a project that is high on my todo list. just ordered some more tools for doing the thirds. this is one of them projects that has always been on my mind but until this thread with the use of junk yard spindles i never wanted to go down this route with all the added cost of unit bearing and such. this is still $$$$$ but its also looks like fun....
 
I have a van D60-U that's served me well since 2015 only breaking a few gear sets. I just installed a TG 9 in front and would like to build one for the rear. I'm all about unit bearings but it is awful tempting just to cut my existing spindles off and reuse the outers and yukon 35 spline shafts that have given me zero problems. just not sure where my wms would end up. I'd like to be 69".
 
cdemart2 said:
I have a van D60-U that's served me well since 2015 only breaking a few gear sets. I just installed a TG 9 in front and would like to build one for the rear. I'm all about unit bearings but it is awful tempting just to cut my existing spindles off and reuse the outers and yukon 35 spline shafts that have given me zero problems. just not sure where my wms would end up. I'd like to be 69".
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cut more off the dana axle and adjust as needed
 
AgitatedPancake said:
Yeah that's a bad descriptor, that one should just be pinion centerline as the tool itself notes.

IIRC the difference in axle shaft length between ARB and Detroit is the thickness of the center pin. The ARB has a somewhat standard looking centerpin that the axle shafts basically butt up against, indicated by the gap in that "spline window". While the Detroit has no center pin so the splines between L and R shaft essentially meet up with each other in the center of that spline window

https://www.arb.com.au/assets/air-lockers/2-RD99.pdf

71iIIQ+lNTL._AC_UF350,350_QL80_.jpg


used-detroit-locker-ford-9-inch-31-spline-picture4.jpg
Click to expand...

I broke a r+p one trip on my ZIP (ARB) 3rd, and swapped in my Detroit 3rd. id built my rear axle around the zip 3rd when measuringfor shafts etc.

The axle shaft splines engaged the side gears in the Detroit enough to move the car, but they only engaged the thin part of the side gear, and when I got to the first climb and a little hop, it twisted the side gear coupler to failure. (Pop, and that tire didn't turn anymore).

If you're running a Detroit you need longer shafts for the same 3rd member placement than an ARB.
 
Opiebennett said:
I broke a r+p one trip on my ZIP (ARB) 3rd, and swapped in my Detroit 3rd. id built my rear axle around the zip 3rd when measuringfor shafts etc.

The axle shaft splines engaged the side gears in the Detroit enough to move the car, but they only engaged the thin part of the side gear, and when I got to the first climb and a little hop, it twisted the side gear coupler to failure. (Pop, and that tire didn't turn anymore).

If you're running a Detroit you need longer shafts for the same 3rd member placement than an ARB.
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Very interesting and for me comforting. Sounds like 9" have to be built for the locker you want or locker and shafts need to be changed later.

Makes me feel better about my Spools to reused the shafts i have. If I hate it and need to change i'll just have to change inner shafts like everyone else. LOL :lmao:
 
Blase said:
Very interesting and for me comforting. Sounds like 9" have to be built for the locker you want or locker and shafts need to be changed later.

Makes me feel better about my Spools to reused the shafts i have. If I hate it and need to change i'll just have to change inner shafts like everyone else. LOL :lmao:
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I just cut down my shafts when I went to an ARB. It was roughly 1/4" shorter than the Spool.
 
bad zuki said:
I just cut down my shafts when I went to an ARB. It was roughly 1/4" shorter than the Spool.
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Yes, going that direction, your angle grinder or abrasive chop saw and some file action mivht get you there. Going the other way needs a shaft stretcher. :lmao:
 
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Blase said:
Very interesting and for me comforting. Sounds like 9" have to be built for the locker you want or locker and shafts need to be changed later.

Makes me feel better about my Spools to reused the shafts i have. If I hate it and need to change i'll just have to change inner shafts like everyone else. LOL :lmao:
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We have 3 different 9” spools with the splines in different places. It’s fawking annoying. The spool in the old race scrambler has the splines exactly where an ARB would have them, so we had to make a little biscuit spacer to keep the shafts from floating in and losing engagement out at the drive flanges.

Have several spools that only have 3” of spline right in the middle so the ends of the shafts have to touch. My Jeep has unequal shaft length double spline shafts because of how the splines are offset inside the spool. Screwed up and put the right side shaft in the left side and left side shaft in the right. Had full engagement on the left side and 1/8th inch engagement in the spool on the right side. Was strong enough not to strip the 1/8” of splines with aired down 39 reds on pavement but it broke on the gate keeper of the first trail.

Have another spool with the splines all the way out to each end of the spool inside the bearing area with a big gap between the splines. It’s meant for a semi float build but having a snap ring groove in the shaft on the drive flange end will keep it in place for a double spline full float.

Gotta be aware of what you’ve got to keep from getting broken.
 
JR4X said:
We have 3 different 9” spools with the splines in different places. It’s fawking annoying. The spool in the old race scrambler has the splines exactly where an ARB would have them, so we had to make a little biscuit spacer to keep the shafts from floating in and losing engagement out at the drive flanges.

Have several spools that only have 3” of spline right in the middle so the ends of the shafts have to touch. My Jeep has unequal shaft length double spline shafts because of how the splines are offset inside the spool. Screwed up and put the right side shaft in the left side and left side shaft in the right. Had full engagement on the left side and 1/8th inch engagement in the spool on the right side. Was strong enough not to strip the 1/8” of splines with aired down 39 reds on pavement but it broke on the gate keeper of the first trail.

Have another spool with the splines all the way out to each end of the spool inside the bearing area with a big gap between the splines. It’s meant for a semi float build but having a snap ring groove in the shaft on the drive flange end will keep it in place for a double spline full float.

Gotta be aware of what you’ve got to keep from getting broken.
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That's all great info!!!!!!! I'm planning to use the 3rd spool option you listed with the splines at the ends under the bearings to build two steering 9" axles. I'm doing this to reuse the 4 sets of Chevy 60 inner axles that I already have....and cause I want to. 99-04 outers if that matters for my question below. LOL

Based on what you are saying here do you think I should make a spacer to sit in the middle of he spool for the axles to sit against. Depending on what size the ID of the spool is between the splines it could have some slack between the OD of the spacer and ID of the spool.


I wish someone made a spool for a 9" that was splined straight thru from one side to the other. Then a spacer would be easy. LOL
 
Blase said:
Based on what you are saying here do you think I should make a spacer to sit in the middle of he spool for the axles to sit against. Depending on what size the ID of the spool is between the splines it could have some slack between the OD of the spacer and ID of the spool.
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No. Because being steering axles with stock style shafts they won’t be able to float inward. If you were using fancy double spline steering axles it’s probably a good idea. But your stuff won’t be able to move more than 1/16th of an inch.

Blase said:
I wish someone made a spool for a 9" that was splined straight thru from one side to the other. Then a spacer would be easy. LOL
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I wish that too.
 
chaplinfj60 said:
cut more off the dana axle and adjust as needed
Click to expand...

plenty of housing tube length on the trail gear housings to dial in the width I would want. my concern is my existing 4340 shafts would be too short going from a 60 spool to a 9" spool. if I have to buy new shafts then I'll just go right to unit bearings and be done.
 
This is with a 16” short side shaft, I was already considering pushing WMS out but now seeing how short the short side would be I think I definitely should.

Also looks like on the long side I’m not going to have enough tube from the donor axle. Now I’m contemplating if I just retube it with new, try and go find some junkyard rear 3.5” tubes to hack up, or do I cave in and just get a fabbed housing :homer:


825935D5-31E4-49F7-8EF6-D4FCF2D2880C.jpeg

0AFE17F0-89BC-4D57-8AD0-F6D33441DD1A.jpeg
 
I'm not sure what you're plannibg on putting this in but a 16" short side doesn't leave much room for activities.
 
Seems like a no Brainer to go longer on the short side since you also mentioned that your wms would end up narrower than the rear with what you have.

Iirc, some factory short sides are ~20" long, or just make it want you want and order a custom one.
 
RunningProblem said:
fl0w3n find some junkyard tubes to stick with the ‘junkyard 609 axle’ theme.
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I was thinking I’d go to the junkyard and pull some rear 1 ton shafts and then hack the tubes off. Kinda dick if I ruin some Sterling or 14b rear, but they’re damn common so whatever. I can’t imagine the junkyard would charge more than $100 if I walk out with some scrap tubes. 3.5” DOM would probably run me 3-400 which kinda ruins the point of junkyard like you said.

I’d need to then turn down the 3.5” tube to fit into the 9” center or do what Dan did to make them fit.

94toytruck said:
I'm not sure what you're plannibg on putting this in but a 16" short side doesn't leave much room for activities.
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Current shafts equal 65” WMS, I was originally trying to stay narrow and light and was considering running 35s

I now have 38 stickies for the build so it’s spiraled a little bit… and as Yota mentions I now have a 67” rear that would be silly to go 65” up front.
 
fl0w3n said:
I was thinking I’d go to the junkyard and pull some rear 1 ton shafts and then hack the tubes off. Kinda dick if I ruin some Sterling or 14b rear, but they’re damn common so whatever. I can’t imagine the junkyard would charge more than $100 if I walk out with some scrap tubes. 3.5” DOM would probably run me 3-400 which kinda ruins the point of junkyard like you said.

I’d need to then turn down the 3.5” tube to fit into the 9” center or do what Dan did to make them fit.


Current shafts equal 65” WMS, I was originally trying to stay narrow and light and was considering running 35s

I now have 38 stickies for the build so it’s spiraled a little bit… and as Yota mentions I now have a 67” rear that would be silly to go 65” up front.
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Chopping axle tubes at a junk yard sounds like it would suck :laughing:

I'd grab a semi float 60 or whatever and use that if you need tubing. They aren't worth much and will most likely have a little more tubing than a full float.

Edit: is the tubing attached to the C 3.5x500 or 3x500?

Most rears 8 lug will be 3.5x375, which might just complicate things.
 
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