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'05+ Ford Super Duty Dana 60 Axle Tech & Info

I know....that's labeled the 'failed knuckle'. The way it was posted, it just looked like it was out of order. Like the failure happened and the 'fix' pic was the flux core looking weld. But I could be totally off....that's just how I took it.
That pic is when the failure happened..I’m betting they winched it back together then welded it with mobile welder (red line). The pic Bebop color highlighted shows the progression…when the blue weld failed and let that bung rock around it the ball joint cup till that ear just ripped off the knuckle. Judging by the rust under the eliminator it was not installed great.
 
That pic is when the failure happened..I’m betting they winched it back together then welded it with mobile welder (red line). The pic Bebop color highlighted shows the progression…when the blue weld failed and let that bung rock around it the ball joint cup till that ear just ripped off the knuckle. Judging by the rust under the eliminator it was not installed great.

I know BKOR doesn't weld the BJE all around at the top.
I do, but according to Jake it isn't necessary...
I can see how this may have helped crap go under the BJE and start rusting away/compromising the material from the inside
 
I know BKOR doesn't weld the BJE all around at the top.
I do, but according to Jake it isn't necessary...
I can see how this may have helped crap go under the BJE and start rusting away/compromising the material from the inside
I did a buddies knuckles like BKOR recommended and he has rust all around the non-welded areas seeping out. Since then I've welded mine completely around and he plans on pulling his out to be fully welded. Being in the rust belt where rust forming between unwelded areas, behind parts, inside tube inside trusses, etc. Rust dripping everywhere is a common deal. You have to plan for it not to happen, just an extra thing we need to deal with up here.


That being said If the weld on the upper delete failed first I feel this is the result. I don't think this would have happened with a ball joint or a non failing weld. I mean anything is possible in this hobby but this is the first break I've personally seen like this and feel it's more BJ delete related than machined knuckle related.

I feel this cant be the first BJ eliminator weld fail either so I'm probably off based here :lmao:
 
If the weld on the upper delete failed first I feel this is the result. I don't think this would have happened with a ball joint
I've seen completely sheared off balljoints. It's more common than failed BJEs I feel like.
 
I've seen completely sheared off balljoints. It's more common than failed BJEs I feel like.
Agree. So you'd agree that the ball joint would be the weak link (too weak imo to run this way though) and the contrary being the BJE's being stronger than the OE knuckle leaving you with the result above. Still worth the effort though as this failure is wayyyy less common than aball joint shearing off
 
Agree. So you'd agree that the ball joint would be the weak link (too weak imo to run this way though) and the contrary being the BJE's being stronger than the OE knuckle leaving you with the result above. Still worth the effort though as this failure is wayyyy less common than aball joint shearing off
That's why I did it on my car.
 
If or when any of this happens to my rig I'll be replacing the OE knuckle with a Reid and BJE and hopefully that'd final rework.
like I said, I don't think there is much extra strength from the Reid knuckles vs the OE ones in the balljoint area.
 
I know BKOR doesn't weld the BJE all around at the top.
I do, but according to Jake it isn't necessary...
I can see how this may have helped crap go under the BJE and start rusting away/compromising the material from the inside

I know they’ve had galling problems..I’ve always thought the incomplete welding was an attempt to lessen the chance of distorting the BJE. The biggest problem is they’re misusing the shoulder bolt..there’s no guarantee that the threaded section and the ground 1” shank run together.
 
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Couple of questions about the 05+ SD60 differences. Why does ECGS list an '05-11 unit bearing? Is there some change after 2011 models?

Also, does the unit bearing come with the 'hub body' for lack of a better term? In other words, if I buy the unit bearing, can I simply install a set of aftermarket Warn hubs into that unit bearing to complete the outers (assuming I also use the appropriate outer stub shaft)?
 
Couple of questions about the 05+ SD60 differences. Why does ECGS list an '05-11 unit bearing? Is there some change after 2011 models?

Also, does the unit bearing come with the 'hub body' for lack of a better term? In other words, if I buy the unit bearing, can I simply install a set of aftermarket Warn hubs into that unit bearing to complete the outers (assuming I also use the appropriate outer stub shaft)?

The unit bearing has the splines built into it.

The lockout will engage the splined part of the unit bearing.
 
The unit bearing has the splines built into it.

The lockout will engage the splined part of the unit bearing.
Great. That's what I thought but I haven't seen one in person. Trying to decide if I need to buy a boneyard axle just to rob some of the parts off it or just build from scratch.
 
knuckle change in 2012. Thickness difference so the stud length changed.
Are the knuckles substantially better and do they bolt up to the '05-2011 inner Cs still? It appears based on a very limited search of aftermarket knuckles that the outer knuckle change in 2012.5 was driven by a change in the front brakes...but no mention as to whether or not the knuckles are interchangeable with 2005-2012.5 housings/Cs.
 
They interchange. 2012 had a casting change with a lower hole added into it. But they added thickness as well
 
Sorry if this is weak tech but anyone know what would make a kinda ratchet sound in one of these axles?

Both my 16 DRW F350 with 180k and 19 F550 with 40k do it.

Both are manual shift 4wd and both don't change weather hubs are locked or unlocked.

I'm thinking something rubbing the abs tone ring?

Time for wheel bearings?
 
They interchange. 2012 had a casting change with a lower hole added into it. But they added thickness as well
Can confirm, I we put the bigger brakes on a 2005 axle, with the knuckles and all.

Only reason I responded, the 2013+ knuckles changed the brake abutment bolt spacing.
 

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