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Your shiddy weldz...

M92PV4U said:
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What're ya brazing on?

Air compressor tank I did probably a year ago (Oh noes! Busload of nuns will die!) :flipoff2:

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[486] said:
when you work on concrete you can put a hole in a drain pan really easy dropping shit into it
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That happened to one. The other got a hole knocked in it with a slag hammer while trying to punch a hole in it.:homer: Not by me.
 
[486] said:
when you work on concrete you can put a hole in a drain pan really easy dropping shit into it
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That's why you set stuff gently into them. I use those tin drip pans and oil pans all the time for putting greasy oily leaking shit into to help keep it off the concrete floor. Haven't poked any holes yet, but I'm sure it'll happen now that you said something. Thanks asshole. :flipoff2:
 
Well I can go back to not welding at work for another couple years. Have to at least try every once in a while
 

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2big bronco said:
Bump your heat up just a hair and keep your movement the same
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Whats are you seeing that says turn the heat up (genuinely curious) Seems like the advice I've always got for vertical was turn it down until it's just above where it won't stick (or in the case of my cheap inverter where it will light).
 
it doesn't look like it is wet out enough to me, but also that you aren't pausing at either side long enough so it is drooping in the middle?

dunno, one of them things that you'll figure out eventually
 
speed bump said:
Whats are you seeing that says turn the heat up (genuinely curious) Seems like the advice I've always got for vertical was turn it down until it's just above where it won't stick (or in the case of my cheap inverter where it will light).
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Im not good at teaching or explaining but ill try

It just looks like it could be flowing into the base metal a little better. Bump the heat up just a touch and it wont get those random lumps and will lay a little flatter.

Slowing your travel speed slightly by pausing just slightly on the left and right sides of your weave and quickly skipping over the middle may do the same thing.


Or a combination of both.
 
Okay, I think a lot of that was I wasn't doing very good at keeping the electrode buried so I would start long sticking it. It starts getting better to the right where I changed how I grabbed the stinger which let me get a consistent travel speed and then when I quit I was finally starting to slow down and fill in the edges.

I'll see if a little more amperage wets it in better though.
 
7018 uphill is like a whip and pause.
you whip, or move quickly to the side, pause..... whip to the other side. pause..... here is where is gets tricky. your move ment up is done with each whip, its aprrox half or little more than half your rod diameter, and you pause till you see it flatten out, look wetter or how ever it makes since. rod diameter is just the metal rod with out flux.

this is just one example. stringer up hill were always hard for me so i did the whip and pause. and the 1/2 in this pic is just an example. it could be 3/8 or 1/4 just depending one what your doing.

one issue you will fight when running back to back stringer on the same piece is you need to turn down the heat as you go because you base metal is crazy hot and get hotter with each weld. if you can jump between pieces and let one cool while you weld on another it helps with consistances.
and it only gets better with more time practicing. and when you start getting good here. mig is a cake walk....

hang in there.
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chaplinfj60 said:
7018 uphill is like a whip and pause.
you whip, or move quickly to the side, pause..... whip to the other side. pause..... here is where is gets tricky. your move ment up is done with each whip, its aprrox half or little more than half your rod diameter, and you pause till you see it flatten out, look wetter or how ever it makes since. rod diameter is just the metal rod with out flux.

this is just one example. stringer up hill were always hard for me so i did the whip and pause. and the 1/2 in this pic is just an example. it could be 3/8 or 1/4 just depending one what your doing.

one issue you will fight when running back to back stringer on the same piece is you need to turn down the heat as you go because you base metal is crazy hot and get hotter with each weld. if you can jump between pieces and let one cool while you weld on another it helps with consistances.
and it only gets better with more time practicing. and when you start getting good here. mig is a cake walk....

hang in there.
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I learned how to weld with a stick welder and this is how I weld everything now.
 
mind fuck with stick welding. if you were like me everything stick was uphill... thats how it was for 21 years plus... then 9 years ago i started here and they weld gas pipe lines. its all down hill. now that will mess you up. but i took a class at the college to learn it. and its bad ass now. 6010 down hill... wild...
 
i could not get tie in figured out. he made me get all the used up 2 inch and less rods from everyone's bucket and thats all i could use till i figured out how to tie in one weld to the next. hahahaahah
 
Steve300xcw said:
Dual shield outta a big machine will spoil you:smokin:
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Spray welding with it was pretty crazy!!

Like Arse pointed out I'm glad I didn't spend too much time under the hood of that thing. I do everything 110v flux core with my Hobart 140, so it forces me to design parts and gussets, and prep weld joints. No pray and spraying going on lol.
 
Vertical up welds… fucking awful 😢
Can I or should I run a cap pass on some of these? I feel like my heat was too high.

I was welding 3/16” to 1/8”
 

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Do multiple stringers instead of a cap pass if you need to, but with 1/8-3/16" you don't need to with about 100 amps or whatever you are running.

Image 420 looks good enough for Instagram
 
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