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Your shiddy weldz...

[486] said:
*yore'er
20240808_203822.jpeg

couldn't quite get the wrist/forearm perspective right since I'm mashing it against a monitor over a desk, instead of working on my back like I ought to
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I just realized 24 hours later that was my hand under your hand šŸ˜‚
 
[memphis] said:
I just realized 24 hours later that was my hand under your hand šŸ˜‚
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ittiz when one man inserts his hand into another man's hand and it is so bainful that they have to take drugs

but they eenjoy it


Nevah see the light of legality in uganda
 
Or turn the weld area so the other side of it blocks the wind. Or breeze.

Are you Pushing with Gas and Pulling with the Flux? It looks like you are pulling when you were running the bead. You can keep the gas in the puddle better if you are running into it.
 
Push with gas
Looks like you are moving too fast and pulling the gun away from the weld, you might start 1/2ā€ away but finishing 3/4-1ā€ away as you travel along the joint

I think I have gas set around ~20 which might be a bit high but I weld outside soā€¦

Stop worrying about a pattern and do a straight pull/push until you can see and understand the puddle

Edited for pull/push
 
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Steve300xcw said:
I had a fucked up whip that was leaking gas if things were pulled just wrong. Random shit welds drove me crazy for a while.

If the salesman hadnt talked me down and swung by the shop to see wtf. I woulda ended up with a new miller:homer:
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Kinda similar I somehow melted the liner where the whip connects to the machine and it fucked my welds all up.
 
[486] said:
got the right gas or did they give you a tank of nitrogen with the wrong sticker
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I've gotten contaminated Argon for my tig welder a few times. That'll make you rip your hair out when you haven't tigged in a long time and can't figure out why the fuck it isn't working and then you realize you just swapped out the bottle before starting and maybe it's dirty gas...
 
Bad flow meter or a leak in the machine or gun/line. Both of these will introduce air into the shielding gas doing what you are seeing. Remove the nozzle and tape up the gas orifices, pull the trigger and see thereā€™s a leak.

Bad gas does happen but, itā€™s not that common. Have you used this tank in the past?
 
Nobody asked the important questionā€¦
What size material are you welding and what are your machine settings for this material? What machine?
 
wait are you trying to weld with the preheat torch blowing the shielding gas away?

you heat the plate up to like 400f then set the torch aside
 
Slander said:
I have welded 1/4" with a 120v machine, please inform me what I have done wrong


Add an extra layer for the Internet welders, I used GASP flux core!!!!!!1!1!1!!!!!!1!!
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Iā€™m not saying itā€™s wrong to do with a 120v machine but I would argue a lot of people couldnā€™t do it successfully, Iā€™d even toss myself in that group

Edit: I am pretty sure flux is even recommended at that thickness
 
I was having issues with a Lincoln stick welder. It ended up being in the outlet I was trying to use. My buddy is an electrician and we rigged up an extension cord to work, but all it did was suck the power away.

Perhaps this is your issue. Anyway to get to a 220 V wall socket to confirm?
 
I am happy with it. It is on the bottom of a griddle that was converted to a fryer. I wanted a drain plug. Definitely not critical strength, just didnā€™t want it to leak.
 

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lagunaMS said:
2x2 3/16 wall tube welding to 1/2" plate

Hobart handler 210 on 230v generator power
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With Gas there is hardly anything that cleans the weld area. Flux is cool to have a little paint in it. But I have found that even welding near old contaminated metal and gas that I need to grind off everything 3" out. Because if the weld heat melts it, then that gas is getting pulled into my shielding gas.

This is what i would do. 32-40 grit prep. Bevel the plate at the weld area with a 3/16 wide bevel. Give the tube a tiny bevel just to knock off the sharp edge. Fit the tubes. Use a scrap piece set your machine up with one heat setting higher and adjust the wire feed and your hand to make a straight steady smooth run without weaving, zig zag zigging, figure 8 skating and all that. Again Set the wire speed for the speed of your hand moving at a steady pace.

The trick here is not listen for crackling bacon. Just a steady burn of the wire visually so it doesn't fall out of the arc and doesn't get pushed into the metal while you see the puddle just behind it. That will give you less porosity issues.

When you run the bead you only need to pay attention to the tip of the wire and the location of it in the puddle. Keep the wire tip right at the tube and watch the tube fuse into the plate. You want the heat to melt the thicker material 1st and morso. That weld should resemble a robots weld, Smooth and even with very little ripple.

That will have enough heat to fuse the 3/16" into the 1/2" plate and have enough bead with less porosity. If you need to weave then you need to go back to prep and get the gap tighter.

You can place whatever glob shit or fancy internet bead atop that to make us all drool.
Edit: Here is an example of how old cleaned metal can get ya. Thats 40 grit prepped, 60 grit D/A and a double Acetone rinse. But it shows what i was trying to explain.
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lagunaMS said:
Why am I welding like a gay retard?
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My vote is either not enough gas flow, or gas leak introducing air into the weld. You can get contaminated gas but it is generally one of the last things to check. Oh and set up a cardboard shield for the wind unless you are fat like me, I just shield the weld with my body.:lmao:

You are switching polarity when switching from Flux core to solid wire right? I want to say I forgot one time and had some pretty shitty and porous welds.
 
Steve300xcw said:
You can. Good preheat and go for it. Having a buddy stand next to the breaker helps:laughing:
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Box fan blowing right up the ass off my Hobart 140 helped keep it and the breakers happy when having to weld thick metal, especially on hot days:laughing:
 
I believe I have had that very thing happen on my Hobart Handler 210. Also heard of the soft plastic gas line in the machine cracking and letting air in.

Sometimes when the leak is smaller you can still feel the gas coming out of the tip but there is a bit of air mixed in.
 
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