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Your shiddy weldz...

[486] said:
huh, I've only been using the gas lens cups
have had them glowing halfway back doing cylinder head work, with a water cooled 20 torch

the only ones I've had break were totally my fault, dropping them
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They get really fragile when you heat cycle them like that. Nothing like your cup falling apart into a weld for some $$$$ part :barf:

I've moved to using CK supercups for high amperage al. They take the heat way better totally worth it.
 
arse_sidewards said:
You ever heard of running multiple passes? :laughing:
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Of course I have.

Aluminum is not steel. Multiple passes affects the aluminum in the heat affected zone and leads to premature failures/cracks.

0 Failures from my work meanwhile everyone else who this company hired around here's welds failed and cracked.
 
[486] said:
I think he means the neck of the ceramic cup breaks off

which would explain it, as I use the #10 or #12 on the "big series" ones that you can jam a gloved finger into, and the #8 on the little baby ones
the li'l baby neckdown ones don't go with dumb old transformer machine AC too well, the weld is too wide for their coverage...
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I use down to #4 long collet cups on a syncrowave regularly. It's not bad compared to my Dynasty. A syncrowave is probably the best transformer tig though.

You can make identical welds on a transformer tig machine it's just incredibly difficult and takes a lot of skill.

It's like riding a bicycle without training wheels :laughing: everything needs to be perfect.
 
WESTOF7 said:
I've never even seen a shopmaster but I'd love to have one. Have only heard good things.

I mainly use 5356 as well but Ive been trying different fillers from Nexal. Can't say what the really thick stuff I do is due to NDAs but a lot of pressure vessels.

If you don't use superglaze or Nexal I'd highly reccomend checking it out.
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i have no need for it, not even as a back up. id let it go cheap, but aint listing it and dealing with people.

shopmaster runs sweet. got it from trident seafords repair dept when they where cleaning out storage space. the oldest guy there told me he remembers they bought it then it went straight to storage and was never used. came with a high freq box too. it looked brand new when i got it.


and i forgot:homer: it is still in my shop, stored in the loft. one thing i liked is that it does have a pfc, unlike my syncro250, so it sucks more power at idle but all out only pulls around 60amps.


i am hooked on inverters though, i only ever got the transformers becasue they where in budget when I was starting out. in the 15years i've been welding i've never had one fail on me yet, knock on wood, and i'm not too worried because i always have backups. and my lws would take care of me if anythign went down. recently had an issue with my tb325efi and they had a loaner ready for me to pick up.



i've got a couple rolls of some cheap wire to burn thru first but i'll look in to those nexal and superglaze. :beer:
 
330 a/bp
If you've got the amps, you don't gotta prep anything, just hammer down and jam some big rod in there

Make some turds that are really worthy of this thread
 
tracyb said:
i have no need for it, not even as a back up. id let it go cheap, but aint listing it and dealing with people.

shopmaster runs sweet. got it from trident seafords repair dept when they where cleaning out storage space. the oldest guy there told me he remembers they bought it then it went straight to storage and was never used. came with a high freq box too. it looked brand new when i got it.


and i forgot:homer: it is still in my shop, stored in the loft. one thing i liked is that it does have a pfc, unlike my syncro250, so it sucks more power at idle but all out only pulls around 60amps.


i am hooked on inverters though, i only ever got the transformers becasue they where in budget when I was starting out. in the 15years i've been welding i've never had one fail on me yet, knock on wood, and i'm not too worried because i always have backups. and my lws would take care of me if anythign went down. recently had an issue with my tb325efi and they had a loaner ready for me to pick up.



i've got a couple rolls of some cheap wire to burn thru first but i'll look in to those nexal and superglaze. :beer:
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Wish you were closer I'd upgrade my syncrowave. Still have the high frequency box? I just picked up a miller HF-251D-1 for mobile aluminum Tig with my trailblazer
 
Twankie said:
Wish you were closer I'd upgrade my syncrowave. Still have the high frequency box? I just picked up a miller HF-251D-1 for mobile aluminum Tig with my trailblazer
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i do. never used it, or even tried to plug it in. you got the same madel i do. i would like it gone if you know anyone that wants one.



been sitting in this spot for years
sevBQmE1wTUs2DmZX9rHWSxyFg=w823-h617-no?authuser=0.jpg
 
Twankie said:
Wish you were closer I'd upgrade my syncrowave. Still have the high frequency box? I just picked up a miller HF-251D-1 for mobile aluminum Tig with my trailblazer
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Which trailblazer? Did you try it yet?

I've been thinking of trying out a trailblazer for this but they stopped offering a/c on the new ones :shaking:

My Dynasty is way too expensive to run off a generator in the field. Gives me anxiety thinking I could wreck it so easily on a job.
 
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WESTOF7 said:
Which trailblazer? Did you try it yet?

I've been thinking of trying out a trailblazer for this but they stopped offering a/c on the new ones :shaking:

My Dynasty is way too expensive to run off a generator in the field. Gives me anxiety thinking I could wreck it so easily on a job.
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2008 TB302

I hooked it up and ran one bead to make sure it works but that's it so far. Had to clean and adjust the spark gap to get it to strike an arc. It's a '94 model so slightly older than the one tracyb has

I agree with generator power. I hate running anything fragile or expensive off of one.
 
tracyb said:
what? bad advice.
at least for the novice world. high amp stuff I can see.

i run a gas lens, always.

will flow just as much as any shitty collet. if the lens is restricting gas flow... you got other problems.

your torch breaks at the neck? what are you running? some garbage china flex neck? i only buy CK stuff, worth every penny.
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No sir, the ceramic cup #8 at the neck down will fall off.

Iv melted the gaskets at the torch tho.

I'll agree on thinner stuff I would run a lens.

[486] said:
huh, I've only been using the gas lens cups
have had them glowing halfway back doing cylinder head work, with a water cooled 20 torch

the only ones I've had break were totally my fault, dropping them
Click to expand...

Every job is different or takes more/less heat.

They will simply fall off like you cut a perfect circle around it.

[486] said:
I think he means the neck of the ceramic cup breaks off

which would explain it, as I use the #10 or #12 on the "big series" ones that you can jam a gloved finger into, and the #8 on the little baby ones
the li'l baby neckdown ones don't go with dumb old transformer machine AC too well, the weld is too wide for their coverage...
Click to expand...

Yes, this usually happens on big alum projects and jumping around to prevent warping. Also happens when I'm back bending hard and sinking alot of heat into the work to manipulate a surface.

Tech tip, if your alum job warps into a complete shit show, back bend and wash your welds, it can take alot of heat tho.
 
Gravy said:
No sir, the ceramic cup #8 at the neck down will fall off.

Iv melted the gaskets at the torch tho.

I'll agree on thinner stuff I would run a lens.



Every job is different or takes more/less heat.

They will simply fall off like you cut a perfect circle around it.



Yes, this usually happens on big alum projects and jumping around to prevent warping. Also happens when I'm back bending hard and sinking alot of heat into the work to manipulate a surface.

Tech tip, if your alum job warps into a complete shit show, back bend and wash your welds, it can take alot of heat tho.
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Your cups are cracking because they are bottoming out on the gas lens before fully seating against the bushing
 
Twankie said:
Your cups are cracking because they are bottoming out on the gas lens before fully seating against the bushing
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I'm not sure if that's the case. I'll have to look at the fit of the cups tomorrow.

I've had it happen to me lots in the past when I pushed things too far. I've got a pretty deadly cooler and the tip of the standard pink ceramic cups will come apart in a perfect ring. Usually when you tap the torch but it really doesn't take much when they're that hot.

This is with a water cooled 3 series CK18 and a dynasty 400 or syncrowave 350 running really hot.

The grey CK supercup gas lens cups hold up much better for high amperage and duty cycle abuse.

I use a gas lens for everything. I'll only use collets for restricted access stuff. I used to use some really fancy stuff but now it's all CK. I do like the Pyrex gas saver stuff but man it hurts to break :laughing:
 
Sceep said:
Ok then. Question: People here said i needed to shorten my tungsten WAY up. so i did. and it seemed to help. but then I see that dude with his tungsten out like 1/2" ?
Whats up with that?
I did order some larger/smaller cups and those gas lens things to try out.
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Thought of your question today...This is why .

20230222_100649.jpg
20230222_095756.jpg
 
Tight fillet joints like above and the like. Definitely isn't that far out on a flat or obtuse angles.
 
chaplinfj60 said:
me
1677257518920.png


how do we get here
too little puddle movement, too hot, too fast, too much wire. just curious.

not me
1677257578429.png
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Your weld is probably just as strong as the pretty one

But yea, your settings look fine. Just go more aggressive on the loop and swoop. You have to just about pull out of the puddle and swoop back into it for that look
 
I wouldn't say it is something you necessarily want to make a habit of. There's a line between making it pretty and compromising the integrity of the weld.

And I'm far from an expert, others will probably have better advice.
 
Concentration, a steady supported gun,good visibility. My mind wanders and my vision fixates. I have severe ADHD so I really have to concentrate. Just keep practicing. It'll hold..
 
chaplinfj60 your steps are much closer together than the amazing weld photo you posted. So make ‘looser’ spirals/circles.


My second change would be turning the wire feed speed down. It seems like most people want to weld fast as fuck.

Third, connect the last weld to the next weld. Your corner LOOKS like there is a space between the welds. I don’t know if you did that brown one, but my community college instruction included emphasis on restarts so it sticks out to me. The instructor also made me wrap corners and said it’s easier to end a weld in the middle of a straight rather than a corner.
 
i have no question about its strength. its just what the heck am i doing wrong i have never been able to get that super cool wled like the one above.
 
vision i need cheaters.... so thats my hang up... hours welding..... shit ton. i mean in my younger years pipe and plate welder certified welder in 6G, stick welder. shit ton in my mind. but i do think my vision is fucking me over. :lmao: honestly i think i do better stick welding better. wierd i know

even 6010 down hill
 
Is there anything wrong with just going straight with mig? That’s usually all I do with fluxcore and pull the weld along the joint.

I just upgraded to gas but I haven’t used it yet
 
I don’t think there is anything ‘wrong’ about a straight drag IF you’re getting good penetration. I think circles/C/e/whip motions stack more material in there and is considered ‘better’ because of it.

Also, it’s probably what people are instructed to do so they regurgitate what they were taught because they don’t know any different.
 
RunningProblem said:
I don’t think there is anything ‘wrong’ about a straight drag IF you’re getting good penetration. I think circles/C/e/whip motions stack more material in there and is considered ‘better’ because of it.

Also, it’s probably what people are instructed to do so they regurgitate what they were taught because they don’t know any different.
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"Stacked dime" steel mig is a highly flawed attempt to duplicate the look of Tig aluminum.
 
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