how?You can do 40 spline outer easy.
Guessing "easy" in that parts are available...just not cheap (and I'd question how robust considering how much material you'd have to remove to make a 40 spline fit). I personally don't think it would be worth it at the price point and keeping 1480 joints.how?
ahhhhhhh
Rear selectable and cutting brakes ? Kinda joking, kinda not.
But I get when you're coming from, then I'd do everything 300M 35sp.
what is your timeline from now till your next trip out? i only ask because if your under the gun to get back out. just try and limit steering back to factory KP for the time being. i know shitty option. just ideas is all.
What locker do you have now? ARB has a 40 spline d60 locker I think.
You can do 40 spline inner/outer easy. It’s 1550 that you can’t do on an old kingpin. If you want kingpin and 1550 you gotta spend 2500ish on reid super kingpins.
Yes that's the idea.Curious but 40 spline inners with 35 spline outers the outer stub becomes the weak link?
So you've only broken stock shafts ?I know the stress riser on them is a issue however I never broke anything besides Spicers there.
Yes that's the idea.
So you've only broken stock shafts ?
Yes.$1000 300m outer becomes the weak link.
By throwing excessive amounts of money at the parts cannon. I meant easy as nothing is custom one of homemade engineering. Just lots of moneyhow?
Yes.
If you have any problems with this, I suggest you find a 05+ axle to rework and swap in it, because the Legacy shit is the best you can do in a KP axle.
Have you spoken with Branik yet? I'd be curious what they say about 300m inners and 4340 outers.
For sake of the thread, how does an RCV stack up against the legacy stuff of the same size?
But will they twist before a 4340 stub breaks?
Dual cases make a shit ton of torque and that breaks partsHonestly if I'm breaking this stuff with a 4cyl I've got some serious reworking to do.
sure that's sorta like the grade 5 vs grade 8 theories.
Wouldn't that be the opposite? 300m twist more than 4340?
Have you ever seen a twisted 300M axle shaft?
what about changing trans up? maybe use an auto?
well thats not all bad.... hahahah but you maybe surprised.If I put a auto in it's getting a LS, th400 and a Atlas or Hero case. It'll definitely break shit then!
My 22re powered buggy with the W56 5 speed, stock 2.28 case, Atlas 5.0 and 5.86s in 35 spline D60s will break front 4340 axles at will if I go at it in double low 1st gear (265:1) if I'm at all bound up. What I do now is just don't use 1st gear double low. I'll start in 2nd b/c the engine will konk out before breaking a shaft.well thats not all bad.... hahahah but you maybe surprised.
some how you need to figure out what is breaking them for sure. is it shock load from clutch dumping in low low and getting a 10:1 tcase adds a bunch of right now torque to the system. even though its only 4cyl. ruff spot your in for sure.
wild thought. some have said it but what about rear steer? and have each axle only steer half of what you got now. i dont know spit balling ideas.
The answer is legacy 300m shafts and dont worry about it. The ear is designed for 50 degrees, not has to be machined for 50 degrees. My dutchmans were tough as fugg but as 94toytruck stated, it did finally break a stub. And by the time you paid for machining, i'm pretty certain the same issue would still exist that the ears are too thin for 50 degrees. For those wondering about 40 spline 1480, it's worth it although pricy. Everybody is shouting 1550 blah blah whatever but is anybody actually breaking good 1480 joints?? The answer is rarely. Most 4400 guys are still racing on 1480 joints