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Who's who for axle shafts?

You can't do 40sp outers without expensive spindle and hubs.
Inners are easy peasy.

Use front digs more :)
 
ahhhhhhh
Rear selectable and cutting brakes ? Kinda joking, kinda not.


But I get when you're coming from, then I'd do everything 300M 35sp.
 
what is your timeline from now till your next trip out? i only ask because if your under the gun to get back out. just try and limit steering back to factory KP for the time being. i know shitty option. just ideas is all.
 
What locker do you have now? ARB has a 40 spline d60 locker I think.

You can do 40 spline inner/outer easy. It’s 1550 that you can’t do on an old kingpin. If you want kingpin and 1550 you gotta spend 2500ish on reid super kingpins.
 
Guessing "easy" in that parts are available...just not cheap (and I'd question how robust considering how much material you'd have to remove to make a 40 spline fit). I personally don't think it would be worth it at the price point and keeping 1480 joints.

For example:


From the link: "Spindles are meant to be used in combination with our 40 spline shafts, modified hubs, 40 spline drive flanges, and spindle bearings. Spindles are a direct bolt up to factory knuckles or our heavy duty knuckles."
 
Yeah, that's what I said a few posts ago. It's not cheap at all.
 
ahhhhhhh
Rear selectable and cutting brakes ? Kinda joking, kinda not.


But I get when you're coming from, then I'd do everything 300M 35sp.

Totally was the plan actually. I have a rear Detroit and cutting brakes now but a ARB back there would be the cats pajamas. The Detroit can be manipulated into letting you kinda dig by pumping the cutting brake.

Curious but 40 spline inners with 35 spline outers the outer stub becomes the weak link? I know the stress riser on them is a issue however I never broke anything besides Spicers there.

what is your timeline from now till your next trip out? i only ask because if your under the gun to get back out. just try and limit steering back to factory KP for the time being. i know shitty option. just ideas is all.

No trips scheduled till April, anything I do now would be local. Winters coming and if I go out there it's a lot more laid back.


What locker do you have now? ARB has a 40 spline d60 locker I think.

You can do 40 spline inner/outer easy. It’s 1550 that you can’t do on an old kingpin. If you want kingpin and 1550 you gotta spend 2500ish on reid super kingpins.

I think you're correct on the ARB. I have a Yukon Zip comp locker.

It's all easy, just gotta pay for it:)
 
Yes that's the idea.


So you've only broken stock shafts ?

$1000 300m outer becomes the weak link.

At the stress riser everyone talks about on the outer yes, Typically stretch ears or break yokes or inners on the 4340 Yukon stuff.
 
$1000 300m outer becomes the weak link.
Yes.
If you have any problems with this, I suggest you find a 05+ axle to rework and swap in it, because the Legacy shit is the best you can do in a KP axle.
 
I ordered a pair of 35 spline inner D60 shafts from Dutchman this morning. Expected to ship in a little over a week.
 
Have you spoken with Branik yet? I'd be curious what they say about 300m inners and 4340 outers.

For sake of the thread, how does an RCV stack up against the legacy stuff of the same size?
 
Yes.
If you have any problems with this, I suggest you find a 05+ axle to rework and swap in it, because the Legacy shit is the best you can do in a KP axle.

I guess it doesn't really matter a complete 300m inner is nearly the same price. I kinda wish the outer was 2 peice as well though. The idea of a replacable shaft or yoke on the outer would be great.

Honestly if I'm breaking this stuff with a 4cyl I've got some serious reworking to do.
 
Have you spoken with Branik yet? I'd be curious what they say about 300m inners and 4340 outers.

For sake of the thread, how does an RCV stack up against the legacy stuff of the same size?

No, their hours are basically my hours at work.
 
It's not intuitive in the reactions.

Steel has the same stiffness regardless of alloy or HT so The amount of deflection for a given stress will be somewhat equivalent, given diameter, etc. Given load you can find the strain and using the stress strain diagram determine where in the curve you are at, yield, plastic, etc. Alloy and HT effect the stress side of the curve for the material but not the strain. Now given it's been years since I ran any of those calcs but best I recall that was the process.
 
If I put a auto in it's getting a LS, th400 and a Atlas or Hero case. It'll definitely break shit then!
well thats not all bad.... hahahah but you maybe surprised.

some how you need to figure out what is breaking them for sure. is it shock load from clutch dumping in low low and getting a 10:1 tcase adds a bunch of right now torque to the system. even though its only 4cyl. ruff spot your in for sure.


wild thought. some have said it but what about rear steer? and have each axle only steer half of what you got now. i dont know spit balling ideas.
 
well thats not all bad.... hahahah but you maybe surprised.

some how you need to figure out what is breaking them for sure. is it shock load from clutch dumping in low low and getting a 10:1 tcase adds a bunch of right now torque to the system. even though its only 4cyl. ruff spot your in for sure.


wild thought. some have said it but what about rear steer? and have each axle only steer half of what you got now. i dont know spit balling ideas.
My 22re powered buggy with the W56 5 speed, stock 2.28 case, Atlas 5.0 and 5.86s in 35 spline D60s will break front 4340 axles at will if I go at it in double low 1st gear (265:1) if I'm at all bound up. What I do now is just don't use 1st gear double low. I'll start in 2nd b/c the engine will konk out before breaking a shaft.

Could that be an option for the OP? Just don't use your lowest gear?....or are you breaking in higher gears too? I'd guess that being back east, you have to throttle shit instead of crawl most everything like out west. I only have to launch it on really steep, long climbs....and I'm not using both cases when I do that out here. Obviously, that's a lot more forgiving than wet/muddy/rocky stuff with lots of wheel speed/momentum.
 
I literally almost never use double low, I know what it'll break. I have dual cases so I could get stock low range back. 2nd gear 4.7 case and 1st stock low see a lot of love though if it's slick out.

I'm not doing rear steer.
 
The answer is legacy 300m shafts and dont worry about it. The ear is designed for 50 degrees, not has to be machined for 50 degrees. My dutchmans were tough as fugg but as 94toytruck stated, it did finally break a stub. And by the time you paid for machining, i'm pretty certain the same issue would still exist that the ears are too thin for 50 degrees. For those wondering about 40 spline 1480, it's worth it although pricy. Everybody is shouting 1550 blah blah whatever but is anybody actually breaking good 1480 joints?? The answer is rarely. Most 4400 guys are still racing on 1480 joints :flipoff2:
 
The answer is legacy 300m shafts and dont worry about it. The ear is designed for 50 degrees, not has to be machined for 50 degrees. My dutchmans were tough as fugg but as 94toytruck stated, it did finally break a stub. And by the time you paid for machining, i'm pretty certain the same issue would still exist that the ears are too thin for 50 degrees. For those wondering about 40 spline 1480, it's worth it although pricy. Everybody is shouting 1550 blah blah whatever but is anybody actually breaking good 1480 joints?? The answer is rarely. Most 4400 guys are still racing on 1480 joints :flipoff2:

It's crazy all I really wanted was some info on 300m vs. 4340 to help decide what I needed. I was pretty much invested on going with Legacys in some from from the start. There's really no other option...
 
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