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Who's who for axle shafts?

94toytruck said:
It's crazy all I really wanted was some info on 300m vs. 4340 to help decide what I needed. I was pretty much invested on going with Legacys in some from from the start. There's really no other option...
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I've always been surprised that somebody else hasnt started making a more price friendly 300m shaft. The $120 yukon stub to $1000 branik 300m is a crazy price jump. If somebody made something that was even half that price, it would sell. Especially if they gave it a warranty. Normal people like warranties, thats why yukon will brand any dumbass with a camera that uses their hashtag.
 
94toytruck said:
It's crazy all I really wanted was some info on 300m vs. 4340 to help decide what I needed. I was pretty much invested on going with Legacys in some from from the start. There's really no other option...
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It's funny how easy it is for other people to spend your money :flipoff2:
 
Well I think you already settled on what you wanted. 300 inners and 4340 outers.

I did RCV big splines on my D30 for the crawler (yeah I know but it works for me) and went with 4340 only. I didn't feel the upgrade would help that much if I do break it. So far so good.
 
Wfoyota said:
I've always been surprised that somebody else hasnt started making a more price friendly 300m shaft. The $120 yukon stub to $1000 branik 300m is a crazy price jump. If somebody made something that was even half that price, it would sell. Especially if they gave it a warranty. Normal people like warranties, thats why yukon will brand any dumbass with a camera that uses their hashtag.
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I talked to a friend how works with 300m and vascomax daily. He said 300m isn't much more than 4340 and machines the same. Even he doesn't know why they charge so much for them.


Weasel said:
Well I think you already settled on what you wanted. 300 inners and 4340 outers.

I did RCV big splines on my D30 for the crawler (yeah I know but it works for me) and went with 4340 only. I didn't feel the upgrade would help that much if I do break it. So far so good.
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Till I talk to them it's kinda up in the air. They say they think 4340 will be fine I have no issue with that.
 
Wfoyota said:
I've always been surprised that somebody else hasnt started making a more price friendly 300m shaft. The $120 yukon stub to $1000 branik 300m is a crazy price jump. If somebody made something that was even half that price, it would sell. Especially if they gave it a warranty. Normal people like warranties, thats why yukon will brand any dumbass with a camera that uses their hashtag.
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Have you priced a bar of 300M? 2" is about 60$ a foot........
 
Wfoyota said:
I've always been surprised that somebody else hasnt started making a more price friendly 300m shaft. The $120 yukon stub to $1000 branik 300m is a crazy price jump. If somebody made something that was even half that price, it would sell. Especially if they gave it a warranty. Normal people like warranties, thats why yukon will brand any dumbass with a camera that uses their hashtag.
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That seems to just be how this sport is heading. Either cheap import junk with lots of marketing or expensive purpose built small shops with probably pretty low margins.
 
I was curious so I e-mailed RCV what they difference was between 4340 and 300m was. Twist, strength, durability and how far their axles will turn. This was the response.

"Our 4340 material is about twice as strong as OEM materials. The 300M material is about 10% stronger than the 4340 material. We test this by torsionally testing an axle shaft until failure."
 
I think the reason the kingpin stubs are so cheap is because they need to be machined from a single piece of material which means more waste and more time than the 2 piece bell style.
 
cdemart2 said:
I think the reason the kingpin stubs are so cheap is because they need to be machined from a single piece of material which means more waste and more time than the 2 piece bell style.
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so expensive you mean ?

I don't know of many companies who machine 2 piece stubs
 
yeah that's what I meant, brain fart. branik legacy stubs for unit bearing axles are 2 piece.
 
Well, I had some time and called Branik today and talked with Stan a bit. Talked more or less only about what could fit my KP axle only and what it's limited to and when it gets pretty expensive.

40 spline everything and the u-joint on a 1480 becomes the weak link, obviously the most expensive. We didn't even discuss 300m 40 spline really. TBH I'm not doing 40spline but he said if I absolutely don't want issues 40spline is where it's at.

300m vs. 4340 and I think WFoya might have mentioned this before. Stan said the Legacy stuff vs. forged 4340 stuff the Legacy 4340 is roughly 30% stronger and the 300m is roughly 50% stronger. He said they doesn't really have many people breaking the forged 4340 shafts that are machined for 50* and when I said I broke 2 this year we discussed my steering, driving style and terrain a bit. I did ask about 300m inners with the 4340 outers and he said he doesn't think I'd really gain much from it. Also if I bought the 300m inner in a 1480 it's just the shaft not the yoke that's 300m, Spidertrax also does this with 1480 AFAIK. I wouldn't really gain anything in the area I'm breaking upgrading to 300m. I asked him point blank if he though the yoke was stronger on the Legacy VS. the forged and he said yes and they will handle turning 50* however at those angles everything gets weaker.

I actually kinda felt bad for him. I'm like a little kid asking question after question and I know he's answered this crap 10 times probably already today. In the end it sounded like he's not sure it's worth going to 300m and the 4340 may be fine for me. I did tell him I split the yokes on inners and don't twist the shafts off and even had Spicer joints hold up when the shafts broke. Suspect a combination of fatigue and the large amount of steering angle breaking the yoke open like that. In a round about way I guess he talked me out of doing 300m. If the inner yoke is still 4340 there's not much reason to do a 300m stub or shaft IMHO. So I guess we're gonna give 4340 Legacy shafts a shot.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Rvc birfs for king pins use a separate stub iirc, why can't Branik do the same again?
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Probably has something to do with this. I'm betting they aren't confident it won't split. Look how much engagement a inner yoke has vs. that RCV bell. AFAIK the Spidertrax KP outers were all one peice as well.
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Your gaining huge strength by going with their yokes made for the extra steering. It's not quite the same as you breaking your current inners. But yeah I'd agree with the above.
 
that's cool that Stan went over all that with you on the phone. I met him briefly after I loaded up at reading and he seemed super cool but both of us had somewhere to be so I didnt get to discuss this stuff with him. I was going to wait until I had my new housing in my possession to call him but maybe I will before it comes.
 
cdemart2 said:
that's cool that Stan went over all that with you on the phone. I met him briefly after I loaded up at reading and he seemed super cool but both of us had somewhere to be so I didnt get to discuss this stuff with him. I was going to wait until I had my new housing in my possession to call him but maybe I will before it comes.
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Yeah, I just asked a lot of questions TBH. When are you planning to be together by? Maybe go test and tune, wreck wheeling day:homer: I haven't been at FRO since the race.
 
94toytruck said:
Well, you should definitely tell them that...
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American steel has a larger amount of recycled material in it. the carbide particles in the steel get larger each time it gets recycled. this makes the grain structure larger and weaker. I know gear makers that buy foreign steel just t get virgin melt.
 
94toytruck said:
Yeah, I just asked a lot of questions TBH. When are you planning to be together by? Maybe go test and tune, wreck wheeling day:homer: I haven't been at FRO since the race.
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no clue. I have a car with no front axle right now.
 
Exactly 6 weeks after ordering my Branik shafts shipped. Night and day difference between the 2 types of shafts. Also noticed the stress riser at the end of the spindle bearing is at least radiused instead of a sharp 90*. Hopefully these things last a good while!

Clearanced import shafts(silver ones) next for reference.
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I went back the other direction recently. I had purchased a Branik 300M shaft / 4340 yoke combo for 1480 joints. Then one of my Ouverson joints broke and it took out the yoke on the inner and stub shafts. $400 just to buy a new Branik 4340 splined yoke to go on the 300M shaft. :eek: That's almost double what I can buy a 4340 Yukon inner. I rolled the dice and went back to a Yukon inner and bought another as a spare. Same for the outer stub shafts. For the price of replacing one Branik I bought two Yukons. Now I have a complete assembled spare for about the same $$$.

Good move / bad move? I don't know. Time will tell. But I discovered that having a 300M shaft does me no good if the yoke and joint are the potential weak link.
 
I can see the benefits of the joint/yoke being the weak point so the shaft doesn't take out the center section. But your point is Very valid with solid grounding
 
chaplinfj60 said:
is that what is required to get sharp steering with 1480s, or is that 1550. damn alot of material is gone.

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YJ4Rox said:
looks like a 1480 machined for 50* steering to me.
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Yup. Branik and a few others have been doing that for going on 2 decades!

I've got nearly 10 years on my Ten-Factory shafts with the clearancing by Branik, with TG Longfield joints.
 
white-rhino said:
I went back the other direction recently. I had purchased a Branik 300M shaft / 4340 yoke combo for 1480 joints. Then one of my Ouverson joints broke and it took out the yoke on the inner and stub shafts. $400 just to buy a new Branik 4340 splined yoke to go on the 300M shaft. :eek: That's almost double what I can buy a 4340 Yukon inner. I rolled the dice and went back to a Yukon inner and bought another as a spare. Same for the outer stub shafts. For the price of replacing one Branik I bought two Yukons. Now I have a complete assembled spare for about the same $$$.

Good move / bad move? I don't know. Time will tell. But I discovered that having a 300M shaft does me no good if the yoke and joint are the potential weak link.
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I break clearanced Yukon inners at the yoke. 1st one killed a inner, joint and outer. Cross of the Spicer never broke... With CTMs the yoke broke, destroyed the caps and took out a outer.

$250 for a clearanced outer
$350 for a clearanced inner
$200 for a CTM rebuild kit
$800 x 2 in 1 year =1600
Trend continues $3200 over 2 years

Branik shafts full set was $2500. They last 2 years I saved $700 if not well we'll address that then. I have a full set of spares still.

Actually the only clearanced shafts that haven't broken are vintage 2007 Alloy USAs that were used before clearanced and only pulled after a few years cause the caps were walking around.

Good luck, I know several running Yukon with no issues. They just didn't work for me.
 
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