What did you do for your ford today?

[Provience]

Ah; Ok.

So the above pic is from Texas?

Indeed, had originally planned on putting the drive train back into the f350, but the several days near or under freezing kept me inside 70*+ today, so figured I'd shuffle the yard. With the kiddo, made about 10 bags of leaves just in the two driveways

 

[Antti]

Renewed all bulbs and wired the new stereo. Still need to assembly front and rear cams. All connections now soldered and they have shrink tube and of course ISO-connectors.

 

[Pony_Driver]

I moved the new project truck into a place where I can work on it when I have time. First up is to drop the tank, pretty sure the fuel pump is dead and i think the tank has a hole in it.

 

[Pony_Driver]

Pulled the fuel tank to discover it had a hole in the top. Fuel pump was FUCKED. I put a new tank, pump, hose and pressure sensor (broke the old one a bit) in the cart at Rock Auto. I'll order it next paycheck. After this I get to see how bad the noises from the engine are. I expect to replace it with a reman. While the tank it out I will replace the brake lines.

 

[Provience]

Renogy 50w solar battery tender install

Figured I'd put up a thread separate as there is a little bitt more general interest in the solar stuff. Bought a 50w renogy single panel kit with controller for $100. Prices have gone up on these, but it comes with everything ya need. Rkit59dst part number Controller and panels mounts and...

irate4x4.com

If it saves just 1 battery, it will all be worth it

 

[Ummduh]

Cut off the old leaf perches and set my u joint angles finally. I was like +6 degrees, so with wrap I could have been 15-20 beyond the trans side

I did a lot of reading and settled at -3 pinion down to account for spring wrap. I haven't built my trans cross member yet so I can still tweak it. That's next.

If the angles where the same front and back my drive shaft is at about 1.5 degrees. Not too bad

 

[Ummduh]

Cut off the old leaf perches and set my u joint angles finally. I was like +6 degrees, so with wrap I could have been 15-20 beyond the trans side

I did a lot of reading and settled at -3 pinion down to account for spring wrap. I haven't built my trans cross member yet so I can still tweak it. That's next.

If the angles where the same front and back my drive shaft is at about 1.5 degrees. Not too bad

Before and after (well, should appear as after and before lol) Not sure why I didn't notice that last year 🤷

 

[CDA 455 II]

Just ordered the Powermaster #4603.

Should be here by Friday.

 

[CDA 455 II]

Ambient temp. outside at time of testing: 30*

Retested: 12.3v✔️

Ambient temp. outside at time of testing: 21*

Retested: 12.2v✔️

Went to start it; barely cranked/no start.🙁
I haven't started it in a couple days.
Hooked up the charger now/will give it 15min and then try again.

 

[Pony_Driver]

New hard lines run from the front to back of the project truck, new rear hose, and DS hard line to the wheel. I also got the end cap off the old tank and 6 gallons of shitty old fuel drained for disposal. I have to order some fuel safe tubing for vent lines and I am closing in on determining if it really needs a new engine or not.

 

[CarterKraft]

Installed the knock off Torklift lower stableloads on the new dually.

Not as easy as I imagined but with the mag drill and carbide annular cutter drilling was easy.

 

[CDA 455 II]

Ambient temp. outside at time of testing: 21*

Retested: 12.2v✔️

Went to start it; barely cranked/no start.🙁
I haven't started it in a couple days.
Hooked up the charger now/will give it 15min and then try again.

It took a 45min charge and a long 5+sec of cranking to get it started.
But it started.

Drove around town/did some errands/kept the Bronco running for a couple of hours.
Got home and hooked up the battery charger/maintainer.

 

[72Pstroke]

I finally got around to hooking up the grid heater on my Fummins swap. I have been driving it for 3 years with no cold start assist.
Normally it is not a big deal, as the truck sits inside all the time, but on the way home from KOH last year we spent the night in Pocatello and woke up to near 0 degree temps.
It started, but it didn't like it.
I used one of these:Intake Grid Heater Control Module

 

[CarterKraft]

I finally got around to hooking up the grid heater on my Fummins swap. I have been driving it for 3 years with no cold start assist.
Normally it is not a big deal, as the truck sits inside all the time, but on the way home from KOH last year we spent the night in Pocatello and woke up to near 0 degree temps.
It started, but it didn't like it.
I used one of these:Intake Grid Heater Control Module

Fuck that seems expensive for that?

 

[72Pstroke]

I guess it kinda is, but it works just like it is supposed to.
You could do it with a pushbutton on the dash, but that is ghetto.

 

[CarterKraft]

I guess it kinda is, but it works just like it is supposed to.
You could do it with a pushbutton on the dash, but that is ghetto.

I get it.

 

[Arickvan]

I got everything all mounted up the other day, put the bumper on just now

I still need to get some new shocks and then most likely a steering stabilizer and then also most likely a panhard bar

But it looks good and the gm/ford y link looks good to me

 

[holdmypocket]

End of 2019 I blew up the 351M in my '78 F150.. dropped in a remanufactured 400 and got it to pass smog. When we buttoned the oil pan up we realized we forgot to put the clip on the oil pump shaft.

We had to jack the truck up nice and level, drop the shaft from above using a telescopic magnet to retrieve it when we missed the hole. It took an hour, should have just pulled the pan but I needed the truck (it was my only vehicle at the time).

Anyway, I've bitched about the truck not running right here the past three years: dealing with smog, running hot, running lean, weird idle stumble.. I worked on all of those things avoiding installing a brand new distributor (which I've had on my shelf for two years now) because I knew that if I pulled the distributor it MIGHT pull the shaft up with it and I'd have to deal with that mess.

Long story short the swap went smooth: the shaft stayed in place, air/fuel ratio is improved and consistent now, truck runs smoother than ever. I'm a happy camper and a lazy bastard. Should have just done it right the first time and pulled the pan.

 

[Antti]

Gave some oxalic acid and rubbing for wheels. Not show ready but got the worst parts cleaned.

 

[CDA 455 II]

It is. The engine in my 96 bronco. Got it in, everything checked out for tolerance, accept I didn't spin the engine over and check multiple spots. Had .100 between the starter gear and ring gear on the spot I checked. When I put a load on it I can hear it's touching barely. Gotta pull it and add the provided shim. I'm a

My new starter arrived today; I ended up ordering the 9603.

How do you know if you need to add the shim or not?
According to the instruction pic; said shim goes between the starter body and starter mount.
Is that correct?

 

[Wheelin66bronco]

My new starter arrived today; I ended up ordering the 9603.

How do you know if you need to add the shim or not?
According to the instruction pic; said shim goes between the starter body and starter mount.
Is that correct?

Follow the instructions. Measure from the face of the mounting surface, to the face of the ring gear in several spots and see if you need the spacer or not. I think it said it needs around .250 of clearance between the starter gear and the ring gear. Remember to add the depth of the lip where the starter body sits in the trans case because that's where you're measuring from.

 

[CDA 455 II]

Follow the instructions. Measure from the face of the mounting surface, to the face of the ring gear in several spots and see if you need the spacer or not. I think it said it needs around .250 of clearance between the starter gear and the ring gear. Remember to add the depth of the lip where the starter body sits in the trans case because that's where you're measuring from.

Did the measurements; didn't need the shim post-measurements.

I had to rotate the body in order to make clearance for the top bolt.

 

[holdmypocket]

Last week I think I swapped the distributor and had a lot of nice results with that.. on the test drive I noticed the kickdown rod and throttle rod both needed adjusting.. did that but never drove it after, just got busy.

Well just finished cruising/hauling ass around town and it's an absolute joy to drive. Got a new stereo in it, speakers sounding great, idles good, temps good, AFR is good, power is back. I'm in as love as I was when I first got this truck in 2017.

So, now that it's running great and I'm enjoying the hell out of it, what better time than to move onto the next little project: finish installing ac compressor/bracket, with saginaw steering pump add-on so I can convert to a saginaw pump and while I'm at it, a pump with two return ports to accomodate the future hydro-boost conversion for the future 1-ton swap! That'll also call for a new three-groove crank pulley. Hope to start this little project some time this week, and if all goes well i'll finally have working AC and heat... I bought the vintage air kit back in 2020...

 

[CDA 455 II]

Found this today:

 

[holdmypocket]

Back in 2017 when I got the truck I installed brand new LMC mirrors, door and vent window seals.. everything made wind noise and whistled at 60mph+ unless I had the mirrors at stupid angles that rendered them useless.. very irritating but had other shit to deal with and I just assumed all of these old trucks were this loud even new.

Fast forward to today: looking at the truck got a wild idea when I noticed that the rubber surrounding gasket that holds the glass into the mirror overflows over the edge of the mirror-frame a good 1/8" in some spots. Took a razor blade all around the edge of the mirror-frame and sure enough eliminated the whistle.

Such a silly little thing but the impact is huge.


Should probably give an update on the 67 Bronco: on Sunday I went to work on it with a plan to drive it around my buddy's property.. when I arrived I realized how ambitious that was.

First I hooked up the stock drag-link/tie-rod very "jankily" because the ends spin and decided we would only move the Bronco around the driveway and not try to drive it. Got new steering linkages on the way.

Then we decided to bleed the brakes but couldn't get the rears to bleed, chases some leaks and also worked our way back to the master cylinder and it would only put fluid out at the first 1/8th of the pedal stroke. My guess is we didn't adjust the rod right when installed the vacuum booster (was cobbled together from parts at the shop but I found some instructions at tomsoffroad.com). Either way, I have a new one on the way just to have on hand.

Additionally, the very irritating-to-get-to transmission cooling lines on the transmission end were leaking.

If we can get the master cylinder issue worked out then I'll be back on track.

 

[Projectjunkie]

I read my credit card number to a junkyard in Montana

 

[Crankylove]

Tried to start it, bendix gave me a big ol’ fuck you, it’s not liking the cold weather. Was only 24 degrees, not too bad. Stuck a 1500 watt shop light under the starter for an hour, started it up a got it ready for a dump run. Already pulled it apart, cleaned the crap out, and cleaned the contacts. Guess it’s time to replace the 18? year old starter.

 

[Ummduh]

Finally getting to that trans mount
Obviously needs triangulation yet lol
Starting to channel my inner usmcdoc, "when it absolutely has to be built out of whatever you find in the back of your garage"..

There's nowhere to buy steel locally. Or even close by.

 

[Buckthis]

Used E4od I swapped into my F250 last year lost all forward gears, so I bought a complete ZF5 donor truck to fix it right this time

 

[CDA 455 II]

Took the Walmart LED flood light and made it into an amber/fog light.

Before:

After: